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Old 09-25-2013, 11:31 PM   #61
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Looking good, Lou!
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:26 AM   #62
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Thanks for the email Lou...I wouldn't have seen this..Really nice upgrade!With these wheels and THE FANCY READING LIGHTS, I am now truly humbled! Lol!
Nice job also,Darlene! Janalee
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Old 09-27-2013, 01:56 PM   #63
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Thanks for the kind words!
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Old 09-27-2013, 06:42 PM   #64
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Wow, nice wheels! (Might have to get some aluminum wheels for our 2363 too!)
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:10 PM   #65
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Wow, Read through this entire thread twice now and I'm still up in the air about what to do. My 2499 needs tires due to age. They are the og tires and have 200 miles on them (yes 200) but it's a 2006 and I just can't take chances. Flipping the axles and going to a bigger tire is possible but right now my trailer fits in the barn with 1 inch clearance under the garage door. Keeping it in the barn in the winter is a nice option. I think I've narrowed it down to two choices, The 215 LT yoko's that Henry went with or the 205 ST maxxis load range D that Lou above did. I am getting aluminum rims like Lou, (waiting on a call back from Jose), but I did find them online for 98 each with free shipping.
I tend to drive right at about 65 when towing, so the speed rating had me concerned but I like the idea of a D although it may be overkill.

Any other choices in the near stock size out there I haven't considered?


Thanks! It's so nice to have so much information to review rather than just taking a stab at making the right choice.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:16 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by FiveORacing View Post
I tend to drive right at about 65 when towing, so the speed rating had me concerned but I like the idea of a D although it may be overkill.
The move to D load range is a good one but heads up on the speed. You are still on a ST tire. The added load rating will help advert excess stress from the tandem axle setup, however the speed is a player in this. Towing loaded at 65 for a lot of distance, or worse over 65 will eat up benefit of the heavier tire. This is all about longevity. You won't find it in the 1st year or 2 unless you are large annual towing miles, it is all about how long you want to keep the tires problem free. LT removes the speed issue, just it still needs to be sized correctly.

Also, don't forget about the spare tire, it should be changed too. If you are not going to change it now, well what year are you?

Good luck

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Old 03-13-2014, 08:25 AM   #67
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Thanks John. Doing more research and found a Goodyear HT , LT 215/75-15. http://www.sears.com/goodyear-wrangl...a=09586242000P It's a D load range and a 99 mph speed rating. Has a pretty linear tread too. It's also made the US, which makes me happy so I might shop around for a good price on them. Henry pointed out that the reviews on them aren't as good but the reviews are based on truck use, so I have to compare them to the Yoko's for price. They're pricey, but check all the boxes for me. Just my opinion but I know that it's possible to make a really good ST RV tire, but I just have the feeling that it's not economical for anyone. They want to keep costs down so they can sell in bulk to the manufacturers and tire dealers who buy based on cost more than anything else. Again, just my opinion, but I really don't think these ST tire makers care if they blow out or fail frequently.
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:14 PM   #68
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Found these wheels on Ebay. They looked similar to the wheels on other sites but listed as boat trailer wheels so I called them. Said they are rated at 2150 lbs, 80psi and made by Tredit, which is a name I heard before. They work out to be $362 shipped for 4. Two Boat Trailer Rims Wheels 15" 15x6 5 Lug Hole Bolt Aluminum Split Spoke | eBay


I really like them because they kind of match the rims on my new truck.





Still leaning toward the Geolander tires.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:45 PM   #69
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Hey Five 0-
I have been looking for the receipt from Tredit for the wheels I purchased from them......just can't come across it???I wanted to compare the price to what you have found so far online.I do remember that I purchased the four aluminum wheels for the trailer and one steel(white)for the spare,IIRC,the steel wheel was only $20-$25,I remember thinking it was a great price!The picture you posted above is a very nice wheel-even better that it matches your new truck as well.I don't think Tredit manufactures any wheels on their own,I believe they wholesale them,I could be wrong though.I will continue to look for that Tredit receipt as I am curious myself!
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:05 PM   #70
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Thanks. I did talk to Jose from Tredit and was able to sell me 4 Modulars but they were $116 each. Just been watching several sites looking for a sale when I came across these. These are rated the same (if he's being honest) and I like the look. Just can't settle on tires yet. Still think I'm leaning toward an LT.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:33 PM   #71
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I ended up buying the tires (Yokos LT) from Discount Tire Direct. Their price looked higher but with free shipping, a $25 internet discount and a mail-in $60 rebate, they were a really good deal. I even added Replacement Protection for $14 a tire and they were still about $110 a tire delivered. Never bought a blowout warranty before, and if I never need it that's just fine. Now I need to find some decent metal stems.

Here was a strange twist. They called me because I listed Silverado as the applicable vehicle (they did have a choice for trailer). They said a 215 tire doesn't fit any Silverado's so they wanted to make sure I was buying the right tire. I confessed I was putting them on a trailer and they asked me the GVW just to make sure they would work. I asked if they would have any warranty issues with them on a trailer and the guy said not at all. I was kinda impressed they checked.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:03 PM   #72
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Good luck with your new tires!I was also impressed with Discount Tire Direct when I purchased the Maxxis ST's for our Sunline.Funny you should mention metal valve stems.I was going that route myself,but after reading JohnB.'s post about having issues getting them to "sit" right on the wheel without an air leak,I had a discussion with my tire guy.He said depending on the wheel I chose,it could be problematic.Soooo.....I called Discount Tire back and asked them what options for valve stems they offered for the psi rating (65 psi in my case)I needed.The answer was a metal sleeved rubber stem(can be seen in my wheel pics on page #5 of this thread-you'll have to zoom in)that were rated for 80 psi-if I remember correctly.Best of all,he gave them to me on the house-free shipping included,he just said that they appreciated my business!More companies should have this level of customer satisfaction/service!Can't wait to see some pictures of your 2499 all "dressed up" with the wheel/tire combo discussed here!
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Old 04-01-2014, 04:53 AM   #73
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if your going to use Tire Pressure Monitors (TPM) your going to need the metal valve stems. the metal sleeved ones will still flop around with external TPMs mounted. I mounted 4 metal valve stems on my 5 1/2" wheels using JohnB's method with no problems and used TST TPMs on them. I just finished mounting 5 1" metal valve stems on new 6" wide wheel and new load D Maxxis tires using regular method with no leakage problem
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:33 PM   #74
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Can anyone tell me the lugnut thread size on a 2499? Thank you.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:02 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveORacing View Post
Can anyone tell me the lugnut thread size on a 2499? Thank you.
The thread size is 1/2-20 find thread. Need Grade 8 lug nuts. My memory is the hex is 13/16" if I recall right. The socket is on the extension on the torque wrench in the camper, but 13/16 is rolling around in my head as the size.

Torque to 100 ft lb dry for steel rims. Check at 50 miles, 100 and then 150 to 200. If they stop moving on the 3rd time ok to stop or check again. Seems it takes 3 check to stop them moving. Then check "often".
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:26 PM   #76
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Thanks John I don't think the steel wheel lugs on the hubs will work on these new aluminum rims. Doesn't appear to be the proper taper, but I haven't pulled one yet. I'm going to try to re-use the lug caps that came with the trailer rather than closed- end chrome lugs.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:14 AM   #77
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I'm going to jump in the mix here, as I need to replace tires/wheels on the new camper. I towed the new rig home on the original tires, which appeared to be in ok condition, but given they are originals, I knew it would be the first order of business.

I have read this thread several times and I need to decide between 2 options: 1. Go with 16" wheels and any of the many LT225/75/15 LRE tires (preferred) 2. Go with new 15" wheels & Maxxis ST225/75/15 LRE

John, I read your post closely several times. What I am trying to determine is if there is clearance for 16's without any suspension reconfiguration. Were the previous suspension changes (EZ Flex & lowered hangers) you had made, what required the clearance alterations once you went to 16's or would that have been required anyway? I have no idea if my 276SR and your 310SR have the same axle spacing and wheel wheel clearance, but I bet they are close. I suspect I need to get more space between my wheels if I go to 16's. MYGVWR is 8600 and yours is 10000, so I suspect our suspension and/or axles are different, but perhaps the clearances are the similar.

I can do some hanger/shackle reconfiguration if needed, but of course, it would be very nice, not to have to deal with that. I am getting the feeling from your reinforcement of the hangers and another recent post about a broken hanger, that it may be prudent to beef them up regardless of what I deiced to do with the tires.

And John, completely of topic, but... what are all those plastic tubes running to your wheels for? Liquid cooled brakes? Fire suppression system? Oh I bet it's conduit.
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:00 PM   #78
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Scott,

Suggest this as a place to start on the tires. Load the camper with all the stuff you think you are going to take. Go to a truck scale and ideally weigh each wheel. Or at least each axle. You need to find the heaviest wheel. Then find out the reserve capacity %. The new thinking building in the industry I have found is 20% extra reserve capacity over the heaviest loaded wheel. Odds are high you have 4 different wheel weights.

Your 8,600# camper is setup on the same tires I had on a 10,000# GVWR. You have more reserve on D load range then I did. If you have 20% plus, then from a load stand point you are not in too bad a shape. If you are under, then can you move weight and if not then consider a load range upgrade. I made the jump to LT due to loading and not good luck under these loads with ST's. And while I am glad I made the jump to LT, it was work.

You need a min of 2.5" tire clearance top of tire to bottom inside fender on the lowest fender. Left and right might not be the same. Check both. Muck less than 2.5" and issue will come. Dexter recommends 3" min but Sunline set mine up at 2.5 from day one and it does work. Much less than 2 1/4 and you can hit given max suspension travel. 2" and odds are high of a hit. Going to the rubber equalizer from an Alko rigid equalizer lost height so I started the hanger lift as a result of that and later changed the equalizer again to deal with LT's. If you are on a Dexter rigid equalizer you may have a lot less issue if you add a rubber equalizer. PTHutuch is running the Dexter EZ flex on his 8,600# T280SR and Sunline Fan is on his T286, also 8,6003 GVWR. Me having the odd duck with the Alko had different dimensions.

Tire to tire min clearance is 1" min. I had an Alko equalizer, your may be Dexter. I have 32" nominal between axle centers. It works on 16" BFG LT's. They are smaller OD than other brands. May not work on all brands.



Check those clearances to see if you have to move something.

My running gear mods started from severe tire wear on the left rear tire at the time I 1st changed tires. I had to figure out the problem before I put new tiers on. And from that investigation...well things grew and grew. I had to fix the out of alignment issue and the spring hanger issue and I wanted to add the rubber equalizer, self adjusting brakes and shocks... After enough time and tire failures... I made it to where I am today.

These posts may help you follow the trail. And yes, there is not much original left...

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...next-9589.html

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ics-10043.html

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ail-10704.html

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...pics-9839.html

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ics-12143.html

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...del-12081.html

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ics-14359.html


And the brake cooling lines....LOL
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ade-10711.html

The good news is, Sunline gave you more tire capacity on your camper then mine. Odds are high you have 5,200# axles, you have 6 lug 15" D wheels. Lower spring ratings and a lower GVWR. I had the 5,200# axles, LR D's, 2,500# springs and 15" LR D's

Hope this helps

John
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:59 AM   #79
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Thanks John. I finally had a chance, after the recent snowfall, to get back down to get some specs off the camper, which is currently parked at my in-laws until we sell our old one. Current (unloaded) hub center to center is 31.25" and 3.5"-4" top clearance. I have AL-KO 5000# axles and an AL-KO equalizer.

You make an excellent point about the extra reserve I already have on my trailer compared to larger trailers with the same wheels/axles. I hadn't considered that and gives me more comfort in staying with 15's as more reserve is one of the reasons to make a change. It doesn't solve the tire quality problem, but I think unless I can "plug and play" a 16" wheel, I'll likely stick with 15's. I won't know that until I can take some fully loaded measurements with the new equalizer.

I do intend on upgrading the equalizer and having an AL-KO currently, I believe I will lower the trailer and bring the wheels a touch closer together. I may add shocks too.

If I stay with 15's and go to LRE's I see others who made that move, have had to get new wheels as well. I'm unsure if I need to do that. I believe my wheels are Tredit. They are stamped with "3101015-WLJ09" "15x6J" & "Max Load 2600lb" which is all I need, but no PSI rating. I will give them a call on Monday to see if they can tell me about the PSI. I suspect they are not 80 PSI though, as all the wheels, in my size, I have seen that are rated under 2800lbs are also under 80 PSI.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:44 AM   #80
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I just bought a set of15x6 max load 2600lb Martin white spoke wheels and their rated at 75 PSI
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