Hensley Hitch bar

[mssunline]

The new trailer was being pulled with a van while I'm going to be towing with a truck. The hitch bar that comes with it is a straight hitch bar and I will need a drop. Hensley has this whole thing on their website about their swap process with apparently (although not noted anywhere on the website) requires you to buy a warranty, otherwise the replacement hitch bar is $300. I'm irritated and feel they are falsely advertising the process and the response I got was that 'it doesn't matter what their website says'.
I know hensley tells you you can't use anything but their products but I'm wondering if I could just get a drop hitch receiver like THIS so I could then use the straight bar Or if there is something someone else recommends?

[MACK C-85]

Originally Posted by mssunline

The new trailer was being pulled with a van while I'm going to be towing with a truck. The hitch bar that comes with it is a straight hitch bar and I will need a drop. Hensley has this whole thing on their website about their swap process with apparently (although not noted anywhere on the website) requires you to buy a warranty, otherwise the replacement hitch bar is $300. I'm irritated and feel they are falsely advertising the process and the response I got was that 'it doesn't matter what their website says'.

I know hensley tells you you can't use anything but their products but I'm wondering if I could just get a drop hitch receiver like THIS so I could then use the straight bar Or if there is something someone else recommends?

From the site you posted.....

"For use while towing a car behind a motorhome only-not for use with any type of trailer."

So I would say no.

A complete 10K Equilizer system (what I pull my 276 with) is under $800, and is one of the most expensive sets on ETrailer. Don't gerry rig or skip on this part of your system. JohnB is our hitchpert and I'm sure he'll be along to get you right.

[mssunline]

It's not the hitch I'm looking to replace. It's just the bar. I'm not going to replace the whole system because I need it to drop a few inches. These say they handle 10K towing but so did the other one. If it was a normal hitch system I could easily get a dropped hitch bar with a ball on it.

[MACK C-85]

Originally Posted by mssunline

It's not the hitch I'm looking to replace. It's just the bar. I'm not going to replace the whole system because I need it to drop a few inches. These say they handle 10K towing but so did the other one. If it was a normal hitch system I could easily get a dropped hitch bar with a ball on it.

Looking online I'm not familiar with Hensley.

On the Equalizer there is about 10" of height adjustment on the included draw bar. Both of my vehicles were fairly tall and I think I still have one set of holes to go higher.

[JohnB]

Hi,

I'll try and help. The Camping world link is a Roadmaster brand hi-lo hitch as they call it. See here https://www.roadmasterinc.com/produc...itch/hitch.php

As I suspected, that is made for towing a car/truck etc. behind a motorhome. That application has a large pull (tow) need but the tow bar for a car etc is very light. There is very little tongue weight in this application. The 10,000# pull rating hitch is rated at 400# tongue weight which is plenty for a dingy tow bar.

The Hensley is a actual weight distribution hitch and you will be in 1,000# to 1,200# loaded tongue weight with the Henselly and that size camper. Maybe even higher depending on the camper loading.

The short answer, the Roadmaster hi-lo is not rated for what you want to do with it.

Here is an option, assuming you have to have a different shank. You already know Hensley wants $300 for a fixed shank.

A number years ago, Jim Hensley who invented the Hensley hitch and the sales manager had a falling out with the corporate folks at Hensley. They started their own company called Pro-Pride. https://www.propridehitch.com/ And Jim went to improving the concept that they would not let him do back at Hensley. And they made an adjustable shank. See here for their 2", https://store.propridehitch.com/prop...ble-hitch-bar/

They also make a 2 1/2" shank if your truck is setup that way.

BUT, I would call them and make sure that their WD shank will fit the actual Hensley. They would know as Jim made both. This option does not help on the cost, but at least you are spending this on an adjustable setup versus a fixed one.

Another option, not sure how you came up with knowing you have to have a new shank. The Hensley sets up different then a traditional WD hitch and has a few options that are different that "maybe" your existing shank may work with some hitch adjustments.

I would need to know these figures in order to see if this has a chance at working.

1. Make, year and model of truck so I know what this is going on and the suspension in the truck.

2. Look at the receiver sticker on the back of the truck and tell me the weight distribution rating for tongue weight.

3. Is this a 2" truck pin box? or are you using a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter?

4. Load the truck with the needed camping gear and on a flat surface, measure from the ground up to the top inside of the truck pin box with the truck loaded with gear. No camper attached at this point.

5. Have the camper on a flat surface. Level the tongue jack so the camper is parallel to the ground. If you are on a level spot, then just level the camper. This is the towing stance we want to be in, camper level. Once leveled up, with the Hensley in the ball coupler, use a floor jack or wood block and level up the Hensley shank to the ground. The hitch will be all wiggly in all directions so be carefull. Then measure from the ground to the top of the Hensley bar. Need that number.

6. Need to know the offset difference of the Hensley shank you have now? Top of shank that is inside the hitch to the top of the shank that goes in the truck.

7. What rating WD bars do you have?

Please take pics of all this so I can see what you have rather then doing this all from numbers. Hensley made 2 different WD bar adjusters, one with chains and a snap up brackets and the other with adjustable screw jack to tension the WD bars. Need to see which you have.

I know this is a lot of figure it out, just trying to help and I can't tell you if this has a chance of working with out the dimensions. If this is not the way you want to go, then will try and help what I can on other options.

Hope this helps

John

[mssunline]

I have some answers but I'll answer the rest tomorrow and try and get some pictures

1. Make, year and model of truck so I know what this is going on and the suspension in the truck.

It's a 1997 GMC Sierra K2500

2. Look at the receiver sticker on the back of the truck and tell me the weight distribution rating for tongue weight.

It is rated for 1000# tongue weight 10K trailer weight with WD

3. Is this a 2" truck pin box? or are you using a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter?

Standard 2" hitch receiver

4. Load the truck with the needed camping gear and on a flat surface, measure from the ground up to the top inside of the truck pin box with the truck loaded with gear. No camper attached at this point.

There really isn't going to be any of that. I wont be bringing anything more that I load into my little honda fit to travel with with is pretty much just an easy up and a bag of clothes.

5. Have the camper on a flat surface. Level the tongue jack so the camper is parallel to the ground. If you are on a level spot, then just level the camper. This is the towing stance we want to be in, camper level. Once leveled up, with the Hensley in the ball coupler, use a floor jack or wood block and level up the Hensley shank to the ground. The hitch will be all wiggly in all directions so be carefull. Then measure from the ground to the top of the Hensley bar. Need that number.

The height to the top of the Hensley bar is 17",

6. Need to know the offset difference of the Hensley shank you have now? Top of shank that is inside the hitch to the top of the shank that goes in the truck.

The height of the current hitch on the truck is 23" We came up with needing a 6" drop, I currently have a straight bar.

7. What rating WD bars do you have?

It has adjustable screw jacks to tighten the tension. It's on a 2007 276sr

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by mssunline

I have some answers but I'll answer the rest tomorrow and try and get some pictures

There really isn't going to be any of that. I wont be bringing anything more that I load into my little honda fit to travel with with is pretty much just an easy up and a bag of clothes.


The height to the top of the Hensley bar is 17",


The height of the current hitch on the truck is 23" We came up with needing a 6" drop, I currently have a straight bar.


It has adjustable screw jacks to tighten the tension. It's on a 2007 276sr

Hi,

I re-read your first post and I missed this,

The new trailer was being pulled with a van while I'm going to be towing with a truck. The hitch bar that comes with it is a straight hitch bar and I will need a drop.

It seems odd a van would have a straight shank. But it maybe. Bottom line, you said the shank you have is straight so that is what you have to start with.

You may be the first camper person using a 2500 truck with a empty truck bed, No camping chairs or firewood ever going? It is OK that the bed is empty, just needed to ask as most folks have lots of stuff in the truck bed and we have to account for the added weight. In your case, there will not be any added weight.

Number 7 asked for the weight distribution (WD) bar rating. We will need that, look tomorrow when you get to it. Good to know that you have the adjustable screw jacks to tension the WD bars, that setup makes this a lot easier.

In this info,

The height to the top of the Hensley bar is 17",

The height of the current hitch on the truck is 23" We came up with needing a 6" drop, I currently have a straight bar.

You may not have accounted for what we nickname, "truck squat". When the WD hitch is adjusted, the back of truck will be lower than when it started on purpose. The camper empty has a brochure 750# dry (no gear) tongue weight. The Hensley is heavy and will add to the tongue weight, the battery, the LP gas in the tanks, plus some camping gear in the camper. Do you expect to take much camping gear to be stored under the front bed or the front cargo compartment?

I can see you having a 1,000# loaded tongue weight with not much gear in the front. Which is all your current receiver is rated at. This is all OK, just if the weight ends up being more, then they do make aftermarket truck receivers with higher ratings that bolt on. Curt makes a good one that we have put on other 2500HD chevys if it comes to that. Reese also makes them. Upgrading a receiver for towing a camper has been common on the older trucks as campers can have higher loaded tongue weights then average cargo trailers.

With a empty truck bed, an estimated 1,000# loaded tongue weight of the camper and the Hensley, the truck squat number could be 1" to 1 1/2" lower then unhitched height. So your 6" drop number would be 4 1/2" to 5". A full 6 would be too low. This is where an adjustable hitch shank comes in real handy, as camper weights and truck weight change over time when more things are added, you can adjust the setup for them.

Looking forward to your pics.

Hope this helps

John

[mssunline]

How the heck do Weight distribution bars work??

I have a hensley hitch on the truck (and a friend adjusted my straight hitch bar so it has a 4" drop now, lines up perfectly with the level trailer). But I apparently don't have any instructions for the WD bar adjustments. I looked online and I made adjustments, the video I was watching said to measure from the ground to the wheel well of the back tire and you don't want more than a 1/2" drop when the WD bars are properly adjusted. So after screwing with it awhile I got that and drove around. OMG was it a ruff ride. Ever bump on the trailer was jerking the truck. It's not swaying but driving down my dirt road about gave me whiplash. I must be adjusting these wrong but I don't have experience with WD bars and I have no idea what's wrong. I had to adjust them WAY up to keep the truck from dropping. I've tried contacting Hensley for instructions and they are as helpful as they always have been. :/
Besides the whole not doing it right thing the hitch seems nice. I haven't gone anywhere where it would sway yet but just the maneuverability is nice. It's a bitch to hook up though. If you are even a tiny bit not straight the dumb bar wont go in the dumb hitch... hole. (they call it a stinger but it's clearly a willy)

It's been awhile but I finally hooked the trailer up to my truck and drove around!
I'm trying to get ready to take it on a trip in a few weeks.
I completely rebuilt the front end on my truck and we had the brakes looked at today and they tell me it looks great. I'm having an issue with the lights that I'm hoping to fix this week and the trailer brake box did NOT work when I took it for a ride yesterday so I'm getting a new one to replace this week too (and hoping that it's something with the box and I don't have to climb under the truck again to get to the wiring). But maybe someday soon it will be ready to go!

[JohnB]

Hi,

I will try and help, but we need some information to better help. You answered a lot of good info above, but we never got all of it and will need it now. I will list the needs below.

We are willing to explain this entire setup process if you want or need. The point is, when we get done with setting up the hitch, you understand what each adjustment does and why. Then it all makes more sense.

I can attest we can help you get a whole lot better then you are now. The Hensley is a very good hitch, but it is mechanical and must be setup correctly to give good performance. What you are reporting is not correct setup. We need to check all areas, optimize them and then you will have a pleasurably tow.

I'll insert some answers below, and then list some needs to take your setup to the next level.

Originally Posted by mssunline

How the heck do Weight distribution bars work??

I will give you the big picture basics to your question. We can and will drill down into this more as we adjust the hitch.

The weight distribution bars (WD bars) are springs. When the WD bars (springs) are loaded correctly, they create just enough torsional force (lifting up & rotating force) of the hitch shank in the truck receiver to shift weight from the truck rear axle, move some of it to the truck front axle, and the camper axles. That may sound a little confusing just yet, but will become more clear once you understand what proper WD settings are for your 2500 GM truck.

When you tow on the ball, some 65" (65" as an good example) behind the rear axle of the truck, that long distance becomes a lever so to speak. Think of this as a teater-totter and where the weight is moving with the little kid on one and the big kid on the other end. The dead tongue weight of the camper sitting on the ball, puts a very large down force on the ball on that long 65" lever. The back of the truck goes down, the front of the truck goes up.

Pending the truck, the rear axle could be in overload from it's rating and the front axle can be very light. This condition creates an unstable driving truck in many conditions.

The goal of the WD hitch is to shift some of the heavy rear axle weight back to the light front axle to establish good steering in wet/slippery conditions, but not too much weight up front. And to help stop the truck from bucking up and down (called porpoising) going over bumps. WD on the truck is all about shifting the correct amount of weight back to the front axle. There are other needs too, the rear axle cannot be overloaded, the rear axle cannot be lighter then it was before you hitched the camper.

Originally Posted by mssunline

I have a hensley hitch on the truck (and a friend adjusted my straight hitch bar so it has a 4" drop now, lines up perfectly with the level trailer).

This sounds really good. Please explain how perfectly level was obtained? Was the camper hitched to the truck? Or was the hitch bar just sticking out of the truck with the camper leveled on the tongue jack, and the hitch bar seemed to line up with the Hensley head?

Or were you hitched up and you adjusted the spring tension on the WD bars to create a level camper with the tongue jack up?

The end goal is to have the camper level when towing. That is what you want to shoot for. But it comes along with the need to have the WD on the truck right first.

Originally Posted by mssunline

But I apparently don't have any instructions for the WD bar adjustments. I looked online and I made adjustments, the video I was watching said to measure from the ground to the wheel well of the back tire and you don't want more than a 1/2" drop when the WD bars are properly adjusted. So after screwing with it awhile I got that and drove around. OMG was it a ruff ride. Ever bump on the trailer was jerking the truck. It's not swaying but driving down my dirt road about gave me whiplash. I must be adjusting these wrong but I don't have experience with WD bars and I have no idea what's wrong. I had to adjust them WAY up to keep the truck from dropping.

Not knowing what video you saw, or the context of the rear axle is 1/2" down, what you are describing is not correct with modern day WD setting theory on the truck. You did not mention anything about measuring the front and rear fender heights and what are those measurements? These:

1. Before hitching up?
2. Hitched up but no tension on the WD bars.
3. Hitched up and tension on the WD bars.

What you are describing of the heavy jerking ride is the WD bars are incorrectly adjusted. They are way too stiff and you have not accounted for the front end weights of the truck.

For your GM 2500 truck, this is a goal/target to start with.

1. Load the truck with full fuel and camping gear as you go camping. Find a straight hard surface to put the camper and truck on. Level is best, but straight can work too. Air up the truck tires to the door sticker pressure for towing. This is a need unless you have certified truck scale weights and a tire pressure chart to run less pressure.

2. Trailer height. With the camper unhitched on level ground, level the camper with the tongue jack. Pick a spot on the camper frame just behind the ball coupler. Measure from ground to top of frame and record TT level height. Get a paper and pen and record all these dimensions. Like this.


3. Truck unhitched. Measure the 2 front and 2, rear fender heights. Measure ground up through the center of the axle to the inside of the fender. Try and be as accurate as you can with a tape measure in 1/16" graduations. Record the dimensions. See pics on how to measure.





4. Truck hitched no WD. Hitch the truck to the camper, truck and camper in a straight line. Do not adjust the WD bars, let them go loose. Raise the tongue jack until it clears the ground so all the camper tongue weight is hanging on the ball. Go around and do all 4 fender heights, and the trailer height ground to frame, and record the numbers.

5. Truck hitched with WD engaged. Now you look at the above recorded fender heights. We are going to concentrate on the front axle. Note: The fender heights on the front and rear may not be the exact same height left to right. This is normal, but they are close within a range. For the front axle WD adjusted height, pick the side of the truck that is the closest to unhitched height as your setting side. The other side will be equal or greater then the setting side.

To start with, (will later tweak this) adjust the WD bar tension so the front axle fender height are approx 1/8 - 3/16" higher then unhitched height. This means the front axle is slightly lighter then it was before you hitched up. Go around and record all 4 fender heights and the trailer height, ground to top of frame.

Look at the rear axle height, and see what it is. Odds are high with your truck and camper, the rear axle may be 1" to 1 1/2" lower then unhitched and this is very good. We shall see how this comes out when all is done. That is a lot different then the 1/2" you were referring too. If you actually have 1/2" in this procedure, then we need to look at the truck receiver as it may be failing.

At this point, the WD on the truck is "close" to being optimized. It will ride a whole lot better now. BUT there is a range of adjustment on the front axle. You can un-adjust the WD bar tension to remove some more front end weight if we need to. But only to 50% of difference between front axle unhitched height to dead weight height on the front axle height (no WD). This is called 50% Front Axle Load Restoration. FALR.

But, you have a Hensley with a non adjustable hitch shank. What is the trailer height right now? Is it nose high, level, nose low and by how much?

Ideal on the trailer height is level. Up to 1/4"-3/8 high is tolerable, up to 1/2" low is tolerable. Being a little low is better then being too high. You can lower the camper nose by removing a little tension on the WD bars, you "do not" want to add more to raise the camper. That can raise havoc on the front end of a GM truck. Lets see where you come out and then figure out what to do about it.

Things we need from you so we can give more help.

1. Please post all the fender & trailer height numbers above. Need to see them to know what is going on with the truck and hitch.

2. Need pictures of the Hensley hitched to the truck as it comes out on step 5 above. Need pic of the hitch setup from the front of the camper to the tailgate of the truck. Take both the LH and RH sides. Also need a side pic of complete truck and camper hitched in step 5. Trailer bumper to truck front bumper.

I need to see how the Hensley is setup in this condition to see if the WD bars look like they are suppose to. There can be problems that sometimes needs to be addressed. Will explain once we can see the pics.

3. Need to know the pounds rating of the WD bars. 800#, 100#, 1,200#, 1,400 # are common sizes. Not the hitch itself, the WD bars rating. The hitch can accept several different WD bars.

We can also help on how to hitch up/ unhitch easier. There are tricks that can help this. The above should get the truck riding a whole lot better. Then we can get into hitching and unhitching.

NOTE: Your brake controller must be set so the trailer brakes lead the truck when stopping. When you are stopping, the trailer brakes need start pulling a little on the truck when stopping. Not a lot, but enough you can feel it. This is a specific Hensley/ProProide hitch thing. If you do not do this, the trailer to truck connection is not being pulled tight when stopping. The trailer can push forward in relation to the truck and create the "Hensley bump". The hitch swings around and, BANG, it goes giving the truck a jolt and scaring you big time until you realize what is going on.

Hope this helps.

John

PS, if you need help posting pic, ask away, we can help.

[mssunline]

Thank you very much JohnB.
I wanted to circle back around to this since I haven't had time yet.
We don't really have anything that will be loading up. just the generator, with is less than 100#. everything else is just small stuff that fits easily in my Honda fit, so I didn't worry to much about loading it up and weighing it. (Side note, buying a generator right now is crazy. I started to look at them in April and I was deciding between a couple Champion inverters. Then the pandemic got worse and they went from like $500 to $800+. I ended up getting an open air inverter for around $550 in the 10 days it was available for that price. I think now you can get them for about $700)
When we measured for the 4" drop hensley actually recommended a 6" drop according to the measured heights of the trailer and the truck hitches from from the ground. but my friend who made the hitch recommended a 4" drop since it's not adjustable and he was expecting the truck to drop a bit. We couldn't hook up the trailer and put the weight on it before making changed to the hitch because, well, I wasn't able to hook up since the hitch bar wasn't the right height. The trailer use to be towed by a van, my truck is quite a bit taller.
We had originally measured all the fender heights then put the weight of the trailer on the hitch and it lowered at least 2 inches in the back, front did nothing. The video I watched was for a different WD hitch but it was the only one I could find. I cranked the WD waaaay up and got it so the truck was basically level. front fenders still hadn't moved but backs were only down 1/2" and man was that a ruff ride. It transferred all the energy from the trailer into the drivers seat basically. And we live on a ruff dirt road. I thought I was going to get wiplash. I finally found the mrks on the spring bars, they were turned towards the inside, but I put the spring bar settings back to where they were and just tightened the spring bars to the second marks. I still could not get the truck at the appropriate level for the trailer. short of cranking the spring bars up all the way again, the truck still went down in the back and the trailer nosed down a bit more that I would like. We drove it into town, it was still a bit ruff but not nearly as bad. we decided to get some airbag suspension for the truck so that comes thurday and we are going to install on Saturday in hope that it evens out the ride.Here is hoping!
This free travel trailer has gotten my poor old truck a totally new front end, new oil pan, new side mirrors, new electrical upgrades, my blood sweat and tears and now airbag suspension. This sucker better pull the trailer for ever!
I'm starting to get excited about actually taking it someplace. It's starting to feel like a home I think.

[JohnB]

Hi,

Trying to help, and the latest info points to a problem you may not realize.

This would help better if you could post a picture of the hitch setup, the fender heights asked for in my last post and the weight ratings on the WD bars.

I'll address each of these points that stuck out.

Originally Posted by mssunline

When we measured for the 4" drop hensley actually recommended a 6" drop according to the measured heights of the trailer and the truck hitches from from the ground. but my friend who made the hitch recommended a 4" drop since it's not adjustable and he was expecting the truck to drop a bit.

With what you gave us before, I do not know why Hensley would want a 6" drop shank. Something does not add up with that recommendation from what we have heard.

Originally Posted by mssunline

We had originally measured all the fender heights then put the weight of the trailer on the hitch and it lowered at least 2 inches in the back, front did nothing.

The above points to a problem. If the front did not move, even 1/16" to 1/8" and the back fenders dropped over 2", this is a problem. Need to understand that your "nothing" means 0" of movement with 1/32" measurements.

Assuming your nothing is 0" of movement, this points to a truck receiver weakness problem. It has happened before, with or without a Hensley. The truck receiver has too much flexing (it is not stiff enough) and it is not transfering the weight to the front axle. All the lost motion in the receiver just allows the back of the truck to sag while very little weight is moved to the front axle. The 2" pin box may be rotating excessively due to rust, damage, cracks in the receiver weld joints to name a few things. The receiver should be checked for every weld, even the ones on top that are hard to see. Use a mirror and light if needed. The Hensley applies very hgh side stress on the truck receiver the way it works and if the receiver is having issues, some receivers have failed that the Henelsy can magnify a flaw in the receiver.

Originally Posted by mssunline

The video I watched was for a different WD hitch but it was the only one I could find. I cranked the WD waaaay up and got it so the truck was basically level. front fenders still hadn't moved but backs were only down 1/2" and man was that a ruff ride.

This again points to the WD on the truck is not happening like it is supposed to. That is a problem. You may also not understand what proper WD is on the truck, as by what you are telling us, the weight to the front axle is not moving. The truck itself does not have to be level to achieve proper WD. While a level truck is not a bad thing, you do not want to use the concept that the truck has to be level as a method of adjusting the WD hitch. You want to see that the front axle of the truck is rising up when the trailer is hitched and holding all the weight, with no WD bar tension. If the back drops over 2" and the front does not rise, at all, 0", with no WD bar tension, that is a big problem. Please confirm this.

Originally Posted by mssunline

It transferred all the energy from the trailer into the drivers seat basically. And we live on a ruff dirt road. I thought I was going to get wiplash. I finally found the mrks on the spring bars, they were turned towards the inside, but I put the spring bar settings back to where they were and just tightened the spring bars to the second marks. I still could not get the truck at the appropriate level for the trailer. short of cranking the spring bars up all the way again, the truck still went down in the back and the trailer nosed down a bit more that I would like.

You applied too much WD tension. Excessive WD bar tension will give you that whiplash ride. You have proven this to be a fact. This is also the reason we need to know what the weight ratings are for the WD bars you have. If you WD bars excessively larger then the loaded tongue weight of the camper, they will not flex like they should and can create a stiff ride.

If we had the dimension of the fenders and the trailer heights as requested, we can see what is occurring with each of your adjustments and what is not to help pinpoint the problem.

Originally Posted by mssunline

We drove it into town, it was still a bit ruff but not nearly as bad. we decided to get some airbag suspension for the truck so that comes thurday and we are going to install on Saturday in hope that it evens out the ride.Here is hoping!

Adding air bags will not fix your problem of the weight not moving to the front of the truck when the WD bars being tensionsed. They will not fix the problem of the front of the not truck rising up, when the dead weight of the trailer drops the back of the truck 2". It will not fix the truck receiver if it is not working the way it needs to.

I am not sure what brought you to the need for air bags. Air bags have their place, and when applied correctly, they work well. They help well when used on a heavy suspension truck with varying heavy bed loads and a WD hitch. Like someone loads a 4 wheeler in the back of the truck on one trip and goes empty the next. The WD hitch setting would be very different for each setup. But the hitch and bags would be adjusted for the light bed load, then only add air when the heavy bed loads come. You stated your truck bed loads are only a small generator. Not 500 to 600# bed changes of load between trips. Air bags work well on 5th wheels truck setups as they do not use a WD hitch.

The issues above you are describing is not one of the correct ways to apply air bags. The WD hitch and the truck receiver when they work correctly, will correct the ride quality problem. If you do install the air bags, and you do pump them up to level the truck, it will unload the WD bar tension. The two systems, air bags and WD hitch can end up working against each other when not used and adjusted correctly.

I would recommend you work towards understanding why the truck front fenders do not rise when you put a ~ 1,000# loaded camper on the tow ball and no WD is applied. That will then help fix the underlying problems so the front fenders height will respond when WD adjustments are made. Finding the truck receiver issue can also help to not have a breakdown issue while towing if the receiver is not working right.

Hope this helps.

John

[JohnB]

Do not know if you found a Hensley manual, see hear for a download off their website

https://hensleymfg.com/wp-content/up...row-Manual.pdf

They do not give much on how to adjust the WD. I like their hitch, but the little they give on adjusting the WD on a truck I found lacking. It does not really follow industry standard WD for the front of a truck.

[mssunline]

Thanks, got it all working.
The airbags really helped level the backend and get the front end down more, driving home was soo much better!
And yes, the hensley isn't great about instructions on how to adjust the WD bars. I did download the manual, it just doesn't much talk about how to adjust it properly. I took their adjustments as a starting point. I think maybe there is a bit more adjusting to do but it no longer feels like my tuck is on a spring. The Hensley is nice, it does tow well and is easier to maneuver than a ball hitch, but it's a lot of hardware to what seems a minimal gain. And more than anything else, the hensley company seem to be less than helpful.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by mssunline

Thanks, got it all working.
The airbags really helped level the backend and get the front end down more, driving home was soo much better!
.

Hi,

Good to hear things are working better. Great!!


Just a friendly heads up, you have a good 2500 truck. But, what you are reporting with the air bags, now even more points to your truck receiver is starting to have problems and not allowing weight distribution to be able to shift weight properly. Keep an eye on the receiver for signs of cracked metal, welds or excessive flexing. When the truck receiver is working correctly, you should not need air bags to get the front of the truck to come down. The air bags appear to be compensating for a weak truck receiver.

Have a great time camping.

John

[mssunline]

Receiver is looking Great, thanks!