help with a wd hitch

[chanchsirk]

Hello!
I recently upgraded from my 15sc (which I'm selling) to a t-220 sunray and need some advice on what hitch to purchase....I know I need a wd hitch (part of the previous owners is still on the trailer) but after doing some initial research I feel i'm a bit more confused than before I started!

My '03 Trailblazer towed the 15sc like it wasn't even behind me (class v hitch with a sway bar) and I'm hoping the wd hitch will make towing the newer trailer almost as effortless. However, between round bars and trunnion bars and all the other GVW rating and such it got me a bit confused so I figured I would post here to get some feedback on what other peoples setups are....

[JohnB]

Hi Kris & Danielle,

I'll see if I can help but we will need some more info to help better.

Let's start with what year is your t-220 sunray? We can look it up and start to help sort out what weight rating WD hitch you might need. They sell WD hitches in many sizes and you can get one way too big or maybe way too small a weight rating. We have to come up with a loaded tongue weight estimate or actual scaled weight and can then sort out what weight rating the WD hitch will be.

On the trunnion bar verses round bar, both can do the same job as far as WD however the 2 have different features and in some cases one style fits the size of your camper better than the other. To help sort this out;

• A picture of your TT A frame is a good start so we know what it is you have. The A frame is the hitch part of the camper and looks like an A from the top.

• Next are some measurements. Have the camper on a level surface. Level the camper length wise with the tongue jack. Measure from the ground up straight up to the to the inside top of the ball coupler. We call this ball height. We need that number.

• Next is, again with the camper level measure from the ground up to the bottom of the A frame rail by back the LP gas tank. We need that number. This is the open space from the bottom of the frame to the ground the WD hitch has to fit in.

• Next is, measure straight up and down what is the width or height of the A frame metal side rail? Measure top of frame to bottom of frame.

With a picture, the camper year, the measurements we can come a lot closer to helping guide you which WD hitch would fit your camper and why.

Also a side not just so you know, you mentioned your prior camper used a (class v hitch with a sway bar). The Class V in your case you most likely say on a sticker on the hitch and was V5. The V5 is a specification that the hitch equipment was made to, not a weight class of hitch. See here on this sticker.

The V5 rating:


That V5 means VESC V5 which is a government towing regulation and that the hitch component meets the V5 standard.

VESC Regulations

This is a very common mistake with the V5 so don't feel bad. Many folks have thought they had a Class 5 hitch by seeing the V5. The Class of a hitch refers to the weight rating. They have Class I to V. (1 to 5)

I (1) being the smallest and V(5) being the largest weightrating.

Hope this helps and congrats on your new camper! If you need help in understanding my wording on where to measure from, let me know. I draw up a picture to show you.

John

[chanchsirk]

Hi John,
Thanks for the help! Hope I have the info that I need....
The TT is a 1988 (as per the sunline registry here).

Here is the pic of the A frame
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...1&d=1359138683

The width/height of the frame is 4inches. The ball height looks to be 21.5 inches. distance from the ground to the bottom of the A frame is 17.5 inches..


I also have this pic of the hitch....http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/at...1&d=1359138683

[JohnB]

Pictures are worth a million words....

The part of the WH hitch that you have is a Reese Dual Cam (DC). While the older style, it is a very good anti sway control system. And on your short Trailblazer that is a very good option. Now seeing what you have I suggest this.

Using a wire brush and some good Rustoleum spray paint, clean up the DC unit and paint it. You will have to adjust the DC which means this U bolts that hold it to the frame will need to be loosed up, cleaned up and new grade 8 nuts and lock washers put on if the old ones are heavily rusted. You can get the Grade 8 nuts and lock washers at the hardware store or Lowes etc. Make sure you get the higher grade 8 fasteners as usually grade 2 is out on display. Get the U bolts threads working good so when it comes time to adjust the hitch you will not be fighting rusted bolts.

Now to the TT. I could not find a 1988 Sunray T220 but I did find a 1989 Sunray T220. Sunline Fan may help fill in the missing pieces on if they offered the Sunray in 1988. It may be one of those model year end crossing events. He is a Sunline history Guru so I bow to the master on these older campers.

Here is the 88 brochure
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/do...o=file&id=5492

Here is the 89
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/do...o=file&id=5493

I'm going by the 89 specs for a T220 Sunray.

The camper empty, no LP in the tanks and no battery weighs appox 2,885#

The dry empty tongue weight is 320 #

The max loaded weight it can be is 4,480 # GVWR. So you can put 1,595# of camping stuff inside. Which is a lot on a 22'7" long camper.

The camper was built with a dry 320/2885 = 11% dry tongue weight. When you load gear in the camper you will want to get that up higher close the 13% range to help create a more stable towing camper once loaded. By the looks of the floor plan you should be able to do that, but heads up to not put a lot of weight in the back of the camper and not add weight in the front.

I'm estimating you could increase the camper weight by 800 to 1000# above the dry weight. It sounds like a lot, but not really. LP gas and battery, pot, pans, clothes, etc the list goes on.

So an empty camper of 2,885 + 1000# = 3,885# 13% TW would be 505# And if you add more gear then the TW will go up too.

I see 600# WD bars would work well on this camper. That size works with the receiver on the back of the truck and very good on the estimated weight of the TT tongue.

Now to the WD hitch that will work with the Reese DC you have. These are some options priced out differently as you only need part of the hitch. If money is an issue and you have time to search Craig’s list, these items come up often and as long as you are getting the right parts and they are in good shape go for it. Many have got good deals.

All if these are less the tow ball. More on that in moment

Here is the total WD hitch and shank , 600# WD bars Reese HP trunnion bar hitch. This however has the snap up’s and chain. It it not that much more as a package deal but it is some more.
Reese Weight Distribution System w Shank - Trunnion Bar - 10,000 lbs GTW, 600 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66540

Option 1 in sub parts to save some costs.
600# Trunnion WD bar . You need 2 of these Replacement Trunnion Spring Bar for Reese Weight Distribution System - 600 lbs TW Reese Accessories and Parts RP23227

The hitch shank and WD head. It say includes hardware which are the bolts but does not say the 5/8” pin. May have to call them on that.
Replacement Head and Shank for Reese Weight Distribution Systems - Trunnion Bar - 1,500 lbs TW Reese Accessories and Parts RP54980

The 5/8” pin as it is not showing up included, if you need it.
Pin and Clip For Class III, IV and V Trailer Hitch Receiver Hidden Hitch Hitch Accessories PC3

The tow ball. You will need to find out if you have a 2” or 2 5/16” ball coupler on the TT. Do you know which it is? If you have a tow ball already the top of the ball needs to have a rating of 5,000# or greater. Some times the tow ball is stamped on the top the size, 2” or 2 5/16” along with the pull rating. What you do not want is to accidentally use a 2” ball in a 2 5/16” coupler as that can be dangerous and in some case uncouple. If you do have a 2", try to fit it in the coupler. If the coupler only have 1/16" of play, then it is a 2" if it wobbles around 3/8", then it is a 2 5/16" coupler.

Here is a 2 5/16” The rating is higher than you need but many are.
Trailer Hitch Ball 2-5/16" x 1-1/4" x 2-5/8", 10K Curt Balls A-6

If it is a 2”. You will need to use the 1’ to 11/8” adapter that comes with the hitch head as the threaded area is smaller than the hole in the hitch head.
Hitch Ball with 2" Diameter and Medium Shank, 10,000 lbs GTW - Chrome Curt Balls A-90

I picked Etrailer because I know them, all my purchases I have had a positive experience, they offer free shipping on orders over $150 and their pricess are “generally” better than I have found elsewhere. But prices do change so shopping around or Craig’s list may save you some money. You can shop on line or go down to your local RV place if you want. If you buy on line, watch the price of the freight. On Cragis list watch you are looking for the right Reese parts. They make a bunch of them. If you find a link, point it here and I can look to help.

Before you buy the hitch there is one last thing to sort out. The hitch shank needs to be adjustable to work with your truck 2” receiver height off the ground. Your Trailblazer is it 4 x 4 and is it a short or long wheel base one? Here is a dimension I need. From the ground up to the bottom of the 2” square hole in the truck receiver. I have to verify that the Reese hitch shank I pointed you too will rise or drop correct to mate up with your camper and the camper be level when WD is set.

Sorry for the long post. I just typed it out so you could review and ask questions.

Hope this helps

John

PS. If you do not like Reese, there are other brands of good hitches out there. Just you will have to buy a form of anti-sway control as well. The DC is one of the best in this high friction type of hitches. Once you get the hitch, if you need help adjusting it, let us know. We can walk you through that too.

[chanchsirk]

Hi John,
Thanks for the info - helpful as always lol....
My Trailblazer is 4x4, 113" wheelbase and the measurement from ground to receiver is 18"


You were right about the full kits as opposed to buying just pieces - it is a bit more but not as much more as I thought hehehe.....Once it warms up here I guess it would be a good idea to get out there and check what kind of shape those DC pieces are in...

[JohnB]

OK, let me check and report back.

H'mm you said this earlier,

The width/height of the frame is 4inches. The ball height looks to be 21.5 inches. distance from the ground to the bottom of the A frame is 17.5 inches..

A 21.5" ball height.... and 17.5" bottom of frame to ground, I'm making an assumption this camper must of had an axle flip to be that high up off the ground. These figures are not standard from Sunline.

The camper was level when you took those measurements, right?

When do you need this info?

If all works right I might even get a picture of what the setup will look like. Depends if I can find all the parts in the shed.

Be back soon

John

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Measure with level trailer parked on level surface.

[chanchsirk]

Hi there,
Well that will teach me to trust someone else to get measurements for me! level trailer on level ground - 18 inch ball height with just under 14 inches for ground clearance under the A frame....don't know if there was an axle flip - wasn't done by the previous owner but I can't speak for the owners before that....

I'm not looking to buy the hitch immediately - but I would like to be able to purchase it within the next few weeks hopefully....

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by chanchsirk

level trailer on level ground - 18 inch ball height with just under 14 inches for ground clearance under the A frame

Ah Ha! OK this sounds better. And it really changes the hitch shank setup from a hitch rise shank to a hitch drop shank.

I'll work you up a shank length to see if the Reese standard shank will work as is or you need a drop shank and by how much.

Thanks

John

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Originally Posted by chanchsirk

don't know if there was an axle flip - wasn't done by the previous owner but I can't speak for the owners before that....
....

Usually the axle flip is to raise the TT frame for more ground clearance. If you look at the axle and see the axle is between the springs and the frame, there has not been a axle flip. If you look at the axle and the springs are resting on top of the axle, then they did the axle flip. I would guess that with your clearance you did not have the axle flip done, by anyone. Good luck with your newest towing adventures.

[JohnB]

Hi Kris,

See if this helps. Good thing we checked this as the standard Reese shank will not work right. I happen to have enough parts in the shed to show you this in pics.

First, the 2003 4X4 shorty Trailblazer.... Yes, my wife has one.


Then a Reese 6" drop shank and the HP trunnion bar hitch head. This one I have for my flat bed trailer and it was setup about perfect for your camper height.


And what this will approximately measure out to once you hitch up the loaded camper and adjust the WD.


Recapping to make sure we have this right. The camper has a ball height of 18" when level on level ground and the Trailblazer is 18" from ground to the "bottom" of the pin box of the receiver with no trailer. Then this is the setup to get the hitch to come out right. Note: The dimensions are shown with the truck squatting. The yellow line was your 18" before we hitched up.

First you need to figure in what we nick name "truck squat". The back of the truck will be lower then when not hitched up even with the WD adjusted correct. For this TB suspension and potential loaded tongue weight this squat can be 1" to maybe 1 1/4" as a good estimate. A little more is OK too just too much past 2 plus inches may point to the WD not setup right. Again on your truck suspension. Others following along, more squat can be seen with higher tongue weights. 1 1/2 to 1 3/4" on a 3/4 ton truck with a 1,200# TW is common. Or a 1/2 ton truck with 1,000# TW.

To figure this we actually will be higher before we hitch up and then figure the shank setup once squatted. See here. Even on my big truck, 1 1/2" squat is there.


You will need what they call a 6" drop shank (or close to 6") for a trunnion bar hitch to get down this low. The shank is not 6" long it means you can lower the hitch head down 6" from the "top" of the shank to the ball mount platform. The actual shank can be 12" long.

I tried to find this one. Reese 54917. They stopped offering it new. It has a lot of close drilled holes (15/16" centers) so you can adjust the height of the hitch to level out the camper close to perfect. If you can find one of these used or at a dealer for less than a new one 3215 then as long as it is not really beat up, shanks do not go bad in this solid steel design. Craig's list and E bay have them every now and then. Just heads up on the freight, it's solid steel... A good price on used the shank plus freight may be more than a new one with free freight.





Reese has replaced that shank with Part number 3215. Which was a Draw-tite brand years ago. This is 5 3/4" drop on a the new trunnion bar Reese head.
Reese Weight Dist Shank - 11" Long - 6-3/4" Drop to 11-1/2" Rise - 1,400 lbs TW Reese Accessories and Parts RP3215

That is still a good shank, just it does not have as fine of an adjustment. I predict your camper will be about 3/8" nose low when all setup. This is still good. And that 3/8 low may go a little lower and that is tolerable. The holes are on 1 1/4" centers on the 3215 so you can only adjust within that spacing. Being 1" or more low is a lot and you need to to go up a hole and try again.

To see how they rate and figure this see page. They measure from the top of the shank to the ball mount platform. And round bar and trunnion bar are different. D19 of the Reese catalog
http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...stribution.pdf

This now means you want a different hitch part number so you do not buy the wrong hitch shank. Again here is the entire hitch less shank and ball. Has snaps that you not need but it is a package deal.
Reese Weight Distribution w/out Shank - Trunnion Bar - 10,000 lbs GTW, 600 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66020

In parts, just the WD hitch head. Reese 58167
Replacement Head for Reese Weight Distribution System - Trunnion Bar Reese Accessories and Parts RP58167

And you need 2, 600# WD bars
Replacement Trunnion Spring Bar for Reese Weight Distribution System - 600 lbs TW Reese Accessories and Parts RP23227

The tow ball per my last post. Again check if you have a 2" or a 2 5/16" ball. If you need help setting this up, let us know.

Hope this helps

John

[JohnB]

Here are the instructions

The WD hitch
http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N66020.pdf

The DC
http://www.truckspring.com/installat...ay-control.pdf

And in more pics the WD setup and DC. This is the newer DC but the theory is the same and it has the WD hitch part too
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...tup-10246.html

Good luck

John

[chanchsirk]

thanks John!
looks like this shouldn't be as difficult as I thought it would be! the pics were a great help!
I did some digging around in the paperwork that came with the camper and its a 2 5/16 ball (of course my other trailer used a 2") so I will be needing that as well.....

hope the weather here in NJ warms up soon - I can't wait to get out there to start tooling around in it!

[JohnB]

Your Welcome Kris,

Once you get into it, if you need some help on adjusting or setup, let us know.

Good luck and have fun.

John

[Drivingmad]

Is there ANYBODY near the Boston, MA area that can help me get my WD set up? I've read the threads and even watched the numerous videos on YouTube covering this but I am disabled (I have MS) and just CAN'T do it myself, (5 mins of trying to do ANYTHING and I'm wiped out)

My wife and I are going to Cape Cod on the 3rd of July and I would really like to have this RIGHT.

I have all the parts. My trailer is a 1984 T2103

If there's somebody out there that can help, I'd be glad to pay you (or buy you a case of beer for your time)

THANKS

Jay