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Old 04-11-2011, 05:30 PM   #1
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Equalizer Weight Distribution Hitch

Hello All,

I am looking into getting a Equalizer Weight distribution hitch, and I found that they are on sale at RV Wholesalers...

RVW 48 Hour Equal-i-zer Sale

My question is, does anyone have any recommendations on which one I should get? I was thinking the 600/6000 version, but I have no real basis for that choice.

Also, I was thinking about the possibility of getting a higher rated one maybe (1000/10000), with the potential to use it on a future heavier trailer. I don't know if this is feasible, but I was just wondering as there is only a $10 difference in price.

I have a 2005 Sunline 1950 and my tow vehicle is a 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 regular cab.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:05 PM   #2
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We had a 2075 that was just a little bigger than a 1950 and used a 1,000/10,000 Equal-i-zer with no problems. Not sure how high the tongue weight gets on a 1950, but if it gets up around 500# I'd jump to the 1,000/10,000 hitch. JohnB might have the tongue weight of a 1950 from the 2009 M&G
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:11 PM   #3
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I'm pretty sure the tongue weight is around 400 lbs dry.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:14 PM   #4
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Hey Jared... Welcome to SOC!

Your 1950 has a GVWR of 5,500lbs. 13% of that is 715lbs, which is what you would want to have on the tongue at max load. The 1950 having storage under the front sofa, could get a bit heavy on the tongue.

When it comes to the hitch, I always like to have a bit of a cushion. Since the 1,000/10,000 hitch is only $10 more than the 600/6,000, I would get the 1,000/10,000 combo.

I would rather be safe, than sorry.

HERE is a post by JohnB, from where he measured the actual tongue weight of several campers. It shows the difference between catalog dry tongue weights and actual camping weights.
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:06 PM   #5
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Saw that email on the sale. That is cheaper than I paid there in 2009. Great hitch!
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:07 PM   #6
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Hi Jared

Looking up the 2005 1950, it lists out as 380# dry tongue on a 3,815 GVW built on a 5,500# GVWR suspension setup. That comes out to 10% dry tongue oddly enough from Sunline.

Wish I had a real actual scaled weight on this, but going from the book, you need to make sure you load the camper to get your tongue weight up into the 13% area like Gary was talking.

If you travel with fresh water that 24 gallon tank "might" add ~ 100# more on the tongue if it is 1/2 way between the axles and the tow ball.

Filling the LP tanks, 10 gallon at 4.2 = ~ 42 # on the tongue plus battery which may add ~ 15# more on the tongue before you put any gear in the camper.

This is a case where 600# could work but you really have to watch the weights. I added up 442# just LP and battery. Fresh water would be 542# and gear inside can take you over 600# IF you where to ever want to haul fresh water. I do not know where the fresh tank is in the 1950 but starting at 10% dry tongue I know Sunline would not put it behind the axle so it would need to be forward of the axle. Out if curosity where is it located and do you ever want to or need to haul fresh water?

Any weight in the back of the truck aft of the rear axle adds to what the WD bars work on weight wise. So if you have 100# of stuff aft of the axle in the truck bed, the WD bars work on that weight too.

In your case 750# or 800# would be really ideal but Equal-I-zer does not offer that. They jump from 600 to 1,000. The EQ is a good hitch.

If you want to go 600# it will work but you have to watch the bed weights in the truck and how high the loaded tongue weight goes, most concern is when hauling fresh water.

If you go 1,000#, caution not to put lots of weight in the back of the truck aft of the rear axle. Like 250# of fire wood and pop coolers. Put that up by the cab and lawn chairs etc in the back. While the TT will not be an issue, if you have a loaded TT at 700# tongue with full fresh water, the 200# adder in the truck bed aft of the rear axle is something to think thru. The 1,000# WD bars can transfer that load with no problem. The concern is the A frame of the camper. I'm assuming it is a 4" channel iron frame with the 2005 redesign header. When we talk 1,000# WD bar loads on that setup, that is something to think thru.

Both will work, both you need to measure your loaded weights and truck weights and watch where the weight is going.

Good luck and hope this helps

If you need setup help, we are here to help.

John
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:02 AM   #7
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Thank you all for the help.

JohnB,

The fresh water tank is actually under the rear bed, just to the rear of the axles. While I don't normally plan to carry water on my trips, I do anticipate some excursions to rustic campgrounds, where I'll need to bring it along.

Is there a way to use the 1000 lb version and have them adjusted with less tension on the bars? The front a-frame is a 4", but I am not familiar with a redesign. Would the 1000 lb version put too much stress on the front frame of the TT?

I haven't weighed it myself yet, but I will once I go on my first trip...which should be very soon!

Sorry for all the questions, but I don't want to mess up the trailer using something heavier duty than I should.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:29 AM   #8
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A couple times a year Jared and I take our four wheelers along with us camping. Since I have a fifth wheel, and the four wheeler needs to go in the truck bed, that means I tent camp.

But Jared with the 1950 can toss the quad in the bed of the truck and still pull the sunline. I call the sofa in the 1950! No more tents!

I mention this because the ATV is pretty heavy (400lbs) and most of the weight is over or ahead of the rear axle. I'm not sure I understand the deal about too much weight behind the axle of the truck. But Jared is right, the fresh water tank, and for that matter, all the tanks, are either over or behind the axle on the 1950.

One question I would ask is, with the long wheelbase of his 8' bed truck, and the relatively short TT, is an anti-sway system even necessary or could he get away with just a set of weight distribution bars?

When I had my T2570 and truck in signature, I only had WD bars, no anti-sway, and never once had any meaningful sway in thousands of miles towed.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:31 AM   #9
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Jared....

I'm sure John'll be here with a more thorough explanation....but the short answer to your question as to whether you could get 1000-lb bars and vary the tension successfully is "YES".

I've been using an older 750-lb set of Reese bars for over 14 years...for everything from a Que to a 2363 with satisfactory results....and by adjusting the tension on the bars. An experienced RV technician can demonstrate this for you.

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Old 04-12-2011, 08:46 AM   #10
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I would get the anti sway just for piece of mind. It's like insurance where we grumble about the cost, but are thankful when we don't need it. An antisway could actually save you from a serious situation without you even noticing. Many combinations are pushed around by passing semis and antisway can work its wonders there too.

That is a really good price for an Equal-i-zer. I bought mine there years ago and it was a good company to deal with. Mine shipped from the factory in CA, not their warehouse and took several days longer to get than the other stuff that they had in house.

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Old 04-12-2011, 11:19 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ihsolutions View Post
I call the sofa in the 1950!

We'll see, I know I'll have plenty of room under the awning!
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaredB View Post
Thank you all for the help.

JohnB,

The fresh water tank is actually under the rear bed, just to the rear of the axles. While I don't normally plan to carry water on my trips, I do anticipate some excursions to rustic campgrounds, where I'll need to bring it along.

Is there a way to use the 1000 lb version and have them adjusted with less tension on the bars? The front a-frame is a 4", but I am not familiar with a redesign. Would the 1000 lb version put too much stress on the front frame of the TT?

I haven't weighed it myself yet, but I will once I go on my first trip...which should be very soon!

Sorry for all the questions, but I don't want to mess up the trailer using something heavier duty than I should.
Jared

First off, no worries on the questions especially on towing equipment. The more we understand these things the better. Any questions any SOC member has is always welcome about their camper setup and most anything else too....

Now to the 1,000# bars, yes you can set them to only deliver the force you need when setting up the WD on the truck. However I want to preface that too. While you can set them to only deliver the force needed to obtain proper WD on the truck, they also have the ability to give full force given the right conditions. Key take away is understanding how the hitch works and what affects it.

Sort of like using a 3/8" ratchet wrench and a 1/2" ratchet wrench. The larger wrench can more easily break off a 3/8" bolt as the large wrench has more leverage. But if you realize what is going on, you can use the larger wrench, just do not pull so hard on it.

As I mentioned about truck bed weight, if you put 300# of firewood just inside the tail gate that is going to drop the back of the truck for sure. When you go to engaging the WD bars by hooking them up on the L brackets and letting the tongue jack down they are now working against more weight. Now with that much weight on the tail end of the bed, WD on the front of the truck will no longer be correct either, the rear will squat some more, the front will rise some and the WD bars are trying to lift some of that extra weight. How much it can lift depends on how much head tilt you have and the L bracket adjustment but the force will be higher in the TT A frame then just the normal tongue weight loads.

The worst thing you can do is to adjust the WD on the truck to put the front axle back to unhitched weight with all that extra bed weight back there on purpose. You will have to have more head tilt to transfer that much more weight and that turns into more WD bar force into the A frame of the camper. Since you have 1,000# bars, they can create 2,000# of force into the hitch system and into the A frame system if you do not realize and understand the setup. Keeping this in mind, the 600# system not adjusted right can create 1,200# of force into the system too. So they can both be adjusted wrong, just the 1,000# system can get there faster.

The 1,000# system can be adjusted to only deliver the 700 to 800# you need. As long as you do not overdo it, that is all it will give.

Also to note, your truck receiver should be rated 1,000# in weight distributing mode and even higher. Yours I'm failry sure is rated that way or higher if it is the stock GM receiver but good to check. If it is not, that is another issue to be concerned about.

Once you get the hitch, if you need help in making sure the WD on the truck is right then ask away.

And if you need more understanding on this weight transfer part, ask that too.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 04-13-2011, 06:54 AM   #13
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I just ordered the 1,000 lb version. It seems like the 600lb and 1000lb have their pro's and con's, and at least this way, there is a potential for me to use this one with a bigger trailer farther down the road.

Once this arrives, I'm sure I'll need help with the install. Thanks again to all of you for your help.

FYI, RV Warehouse has free shipping on these too. I don't know if that is typical or not.
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