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Old 04-08-2012, 10:38 AM   #21
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Hi Kevin,

Sorry I am late to the party. (your post) The spring heat wave we have has pushed everything so fast I'm still catching up with overgrown bushes, etc.

There is one thing that sticks out in your setup that you need to keep an eye on.

Quote:
Maximum trailer tongue weight 720 lbs. (Then there is a note saying the following).
NOTE* The trailer tongue weight must be considered as part of the combined weight of occupents and cargo, and should never exceed the weight referenced on the tire and loading information placard. The addition of passengers and cargo may require reducing trailer tongue load and gross trailer weight (GTW). Redistributing cargo (to the trailer) may be necessary to avoid exceeding Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of 3,900 lbs.
My son in law has one of the newer Durango's. I do not know what year it is, I will ask him today when he comes over for Easter dinner. I crawled under the back of his and looked up. Dodge has a "unique" receiver on there. If it is only listed at 720# that can be driven by the receiver itself or the rear axle suspension/tires. I have pics of it even as it was so "unique". He also had a cross over bar that pivots on the rear axle to help settle out the left to right rock on the back end.

You will need to keep the receiver rating and rear axle rating in mind as pushing a lot higher loaded TW or internal truck cargo load may have long term negative effects. The rear axle rating and some times the receivers rating are the weak point in any SUV. Just need to be aware of them as used within their capabilities make a good TV.

I looked up the TW chart we have here on SOC. See here
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...hts-10765.html

A T2753 can range in loaded tongue weight from 700# to 950# or more by the way actual folks camp. Everyone has different stuff. In your setup you will have to watch this. And do not try and load a lot of things on the rear wall trying to lighten the TW. The TT has to be balanced well to give good natural anti sway characteristics. Need to target to a 13% loaded tongue in relation to the loaded GVW of the TT. 15% is better but the truck has to hold it up and in your case this will be a problem so shoot for the 13%. 10% is the bottom end and caution on it as changing TT loads may some times get too low and you do not realize it. Like LP tanks going empty or storing something on the rear wall and not realize it.

Beyond the receiver rating is the rear axle suspension rating of 3,900#. When you weighed the camper, did you weigh just the truck and if so what where the axle loads on the front and rear axle? That is key info in this case.

The trunnion bar hitch you showed if for sure a Reese. The serrated washer head tilt is a feature of the Reese. The WD bars, well the trunnion lug on the end is rated at 1,000#. The actual WD bar may or may not be. Reese did make some 750# WD trunnion bars which in your case would be perfect for the hitch setup on the truck. If there is no sticker on them, then you may have to measure them and call Reese to back into the actual rating. It is common to have higher rated lugs on less rated WD bars.

Truck Tire pressures are a big deal too. Air the back tires up to max side wall cold pressure for towing as a place to start. The front must be at door sticker pressure or higher. How high you can go above max door sticker for more stability will be an experiment. 5psi adjustments up can sometimes offer enhanced towing stability. If you reach a point before Max cold pressure on the front where the truck bounces so hard over a bump that the truck jumps left or right, that is too high and back down 5psi.

It sounds like you are hitching up now. If you have any questions fire away. You are going to have to watch the weights and get the WD hitch optimized in setup to have the best towing experience you can with what you have. And watch your weights.

Hope this helps.

I'll type some more on your other questions over the day when I'm not peeling potatoes or hiding Easter eggs for the Grand kids...

John
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Hi Kevin,

Sorry I am late to the party. (your post)
I was really getting worried that you read my post and thought "This kid is really in trouble, I aint' touching this one!"

Thanks for the reply! I know you are the man for this stuff!

Quote:
Beyond the receiver rating is the rear axle suspension rating of 3,900#. When you weighed the camper, did you weigh just the truck and if so what where the axle loads on the front and rear axle? That is key info in this case.
I only weighed the trailer, I unhooked it and left it on the scale. I am not sure how to get what you are asking for, can you explain?

I did hook up with the Reese hitch and bars and have everything balanced out, front is at back at unhitched height and the rear is down about 1/4", thats as close as I could get it.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:31 AM   #23
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[QUOTE=Bakediddy;102687]I was really getting worried that you read my post and thought "This kid is really in trouble, I aint' touching this one!"

QUOTE]

That my friend does not happen here on the SOC forum.....everyone tries to educate with the posts/answres they make.....you will notice as the weather gets warmer the replys take longer to post.....'caus we gotta do what we do best ------camp!
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:20 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poppy & Nana View Post
That my friend does not happen here on the SOC forum.....everyone tries to educate with the posts/answres they make.....you will notice as the weather gets warmer the replys take longer to post.....'caus we gotta do what we do best ------camp!
That's very true! Someone may want to pull a 360SR with a Beetle and we'll still help tell them why it won't work.

On the other hand, such situation would be pretty entertaining...
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Someone may want to pull a 360SR with a Beetle and we'll still help tell them why it won't work.
But my dealer said I could tow it!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
On the other hand, such situation would be pretty entertaining...
It is really scary, not entertaining, to see what some people are towing 30+ foot long travel trailers with these days!
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:53 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMD_Driver View Post
But my dealer said I could tow it!!!!!



It is really scary, not entertaining, to see what some people are towing 30+ foot long travel trailers with these days!
Nooo, I meant entertaining on the forum here. Yeah no, bad bad idea in real life!
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:01 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakediddy View Post
I was really getting worried that you read my post and thought "This kid is really in trouble, I aint' touching this one!"


I only weighed the trailer, I unhooked it and left it on the scale. I am not sure how to get what you are asking for, can you explain?

I did hook up with the Reese hitch and bars and have everything balanced out, front is at back at unhitched height and the rear is down about 1/4", thats as close as I could get it.
Hi Kevin,

No worries here. As was stated we truly try here on SOC to be helpful on this subject. After seeing and investigating some TT roll overs, anyone wanting or needing help with their hitch or TV, just ask. There are no dumb questions and we try not to intimate or put down, only help educate. Hopefully the keyboard does not get misinterpreted. If you have the time to type so do we. Sometimes this takes a bit longer depending on the setup.

OK back to your setup. Since you are now hitched, and we need to drill into this some yet, lets talk weighing the camper. Load up the truck and camper with the must have items only and full tank of gas and full LP tanks.

Ideally you need 3 sets of weights, each by the axle set. If you have a 3 stage truck scale you can get these in fewer moves of the TV and TT, but a single scale works too.

For a more in-depth read on this, see this post. I put pics in there too. The only thing missing in that post is the tongue weight as Nana was coming to a M & G and I weighed the TT tongue at the campground.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...-tt-10154.html

These are the 3 sets of weights all by axle set. Using a 3 segment semi truck scale, pull onto the scale, TV front axle on one scale, TV rear axle on 2nd scale and both TT axles on 3rd scale. Each time a weight set is taken you get a weight from each scale. We need to repeat the process 3 times in different combinations.

1. With TV and TT hitched and WD engaged, take a weight reading.

2. With TV and TT hitched and no WD, Do not move the truck, jack up the TT tongue, unhook and drop the WD chains and let the WD bars go limp. Lower the tongue jack down and lift up jack foot off the ground to clear. The truck is now holding the raw TT tongue weight. Take a weight reading.

3. TV Only. Lower jack, hook up WD bar chains, raise jack back and drive off the scale. Unhook the camper in the yard and then drive the truck only on the scale. Need front axle on a scale and rear axle on seperate scale. Take a weight reading.

Then go hook up the camper and go get your 3 weight slips. (there are 8 axles weights, 3 on 2 slips and 2 on 1 weight slip) If you can post the values, or PM me, I can help do the math for you but it is not that hard.

For these values:

GCW of TT and TV = the sum of all 3 axle weights from weight set 1. Subtract this from your Gross combined wt. rating (GCWR) 13,100 lbs. How much reserve capacity do you have? This is the TV drive train pulling number. This is affected by the frontal area of the camper which is wind drag to the truck drive train. The more reserve the higher the performance, more enjoyable towing experiance and less working hard on hills. You should be under this number. The more the better. You can be at this rating but sooner or later it can be a long term issue if there are many hills/mountians in your area of camping.

GVW of TV = The sum of the 2 axle weights from weight set 3. Compare this to your GVWR 7100 lbs. What is the difference? Needs to be at or below this number.

GAW of TV Front axle = the actual front axle weight from weight set 1 with WD engaged. Subtract this from your GAWR front 3200 lbs. This needs to be at or under. Ideally is this under by a good amount.

GAW of TV Front axle change from WD. = Compare the actual front axle weight from weight set 1 with WD engaged to the truck only front axle in weight set 3. This shows how much weight the front axle is in regards to unhitched weight. Truck should not be heavier on the front axle when hitched with WD. It may be the same or lighter. How much lighter we need to talk about.

GAW of TV Rear axle = the actual rear axle weight from weight set 1 with WD engaged. Compare this to your GAWR rear 3900 lbs. This needs to be at or under. Your tires, suspension and rear axle are affected by this number.

GAW of TV Rear axle change from WD. = Compare the actual rear axle weight from weight set 1 with WD engaged to the truck only rear axle in weight set 3. This shows how much weight the rear axle gained in regards to unhitched weight. The rear axle is going to hold a majority of the loaded tongue weight.

GAW of TT axles : No WD = This is the axle weight from weight set 2.

GAW of TT axles : with WD = This is the axle weight from weight set 1. Compare this to the GAWR on the Sunline. This needs to be under. This tells you how close you are the the axle ratings. Also compare this number to the Max cold weight load rating of the 4 tires. This tells you the reserve capacity of weight loading on the ST tires you have.

GVW of TT = Take the sum of the TV and the TT axles from weight set 2, (no WD), and subtract it from the GVW of the TV, weight set 3. This is how much the camper weighs by itself. Compare this number agasint the GVWR of the TT. This needs to be at or under.

Tongue weight of camper = Add both front and rear truck axle weights from weight set 2 with the camper hanging on the back, no WD engaged. Subtract from that number the sum of both front and rear axles of just the truck (no camper) in weight set 3. The difference is the loaded camper tongue weight.

% tongue weight to TT GVW = Divide the TT tongue weight by the GVW of the TT (you just figured the TT GVW above) TW/TT GVW x 100 = XX.X %. Ideally this is 13% or higher. Higher is better if your truck can handle it. 12 % works, 10% is caution. Unless you have a heavy truck, you may not be able to handle 15% or higher.

TW to WD rating of TV receiver = Compare the TT tongue weight (TW) to the Durango receiver rating of a Maximum trailer tongue weight 720 lbs. This one is going to be tough in your case. You need the % tongue weight of the TT to be in the 13% area, 12% is the bottom I would recommend in your case. The TW needs to be at or under the 720# receiver rating.

You are going to have to watch what you load in the camper. Hauling (towing down the highway) fresh water to camp is most likely not doable in your situation. So you just need to fill up at the camp ground.

That are the weights and what they all mean. You now can give yourself a towing weight health check and see which areas are OK and which we need to see how to help. Now you really know what is going on in your setup. We can also check the WD setup and see if it is correct or needs an adjustment by looking at the weight transfer.

You said this:
Quote:
I did hook up with the Reese hitch and bars and have everything balanced out, front is at back at unhitched height and the rear is down about 1/4", thats as close as I could get it.
Please explain the rear is down about a 1/4". Did you mean 1/4" from unhitched height? We need to understand this one before to drive off to the scales.

What are the raw unhitched fender heights and the heights after WD is engaged? The rear down by 1/4" is something we need to understrand better how you obtained this.

Does this truck have auto leveling? and if so did you bleed it down before setting the WD? And what are the fender heights before and after auto leveling is turned on?

How is the TT for being level once all hitched up. Is it level, nose down or nose up and by how much?

A pic of your camper hitched up? Any chance of getting one so we can see your setup better?

I typed this out to try and explain what and why you are looking at most of this. The key is, understand what and why you are doing this.

Also lets talk tire pressures on the truck and camper. What is the max tire side cold pressure for each set and what is the pressure you are towing at of each set of tires aired up? What does the drivers door sticker state for pressure?

Hope this helps

John
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:59 PM   #28
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You said this: Please explain the rear is down about a 1/4". Did you mean 1/4" from unhitched height? We need to understand this one before to drive off to the scales.
John, thanks so much... Yes, down 1/4" from unhitched height in the rear, back to even on the front.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:33 PM   #29
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John, thanks so much... Yes, down 1/4" from unhitched height in the rear, back to even on the front.
Hi Kevin, does you truck have air shock self leveling suspension?

If the rear fender is a 1/4" down from unhitched height and you "do not " have auto leveling suspension, that is not correct and points to something else going on. You have removed too much weight off the rear axle and or the receiver is over flexing trying to shift that much weight to the front of the truck. Need more info to help sort this out better.

I need to know about the auto leveling thing first as that changes the setup.

Tell me what concept you used to declare proper WD settings on the truck and how you adjusted the system?

Any chance of some side pictures? I cannot see what you are up against. The rear should be in the 1 1/2" or maybe even 1" down range. Only being 1/4" down needs more understanding on why. I understand the front is back at unhitched but the rear is not responding like it should to get the front where it needs to be. But again, auto leveling changes the adjustment rules so we need to know this.

Thanks

John
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