Winterizing Question

[GoodoleBob]

Last time we used the camper was in October 2019. I did the usual end of season winterizing. Then the virus kind of threw us off our plans, and we did not use the camper this season at all. I did not flush out the antifreeze.

My question is can I presume the antifreeze still in the camper will be sufficient for freeze protection this winter?

Thanks

Bob

[Tinstaafl]

You might want to add some to your drain traps to compensate for evaporative loss, but I would think the stuff that's sealed up in your piping would be okay for another season.

Then again, you don't have your location in your profile. Antifreeze properties are a bit more critical in Michigan than North Carolina...

[GoodoleBob]

Originally Posted by Tinstaafl

You might want to add some to your drain traps to compensate for evaporative loss, but I would think the stuff that's sealed up in your piping would be okay for another season.

Then again, you don't have your location in your profile. Antifreeze properties are a bit more critical in Michigan than North Carolina...

Thanks for your reply. I'm in Connecticut.

Bob

[JohnB]

Hi Bob,

If the winterize was done correctly the first time, then the lines should be OK.

Tell us a little how you did the winterize?

Did you drain all the water out of the lines first, then add the antifreeze?

Did you leave all the faucets open after you were finished winterizing? And they are still are all open now?

Is the water heater drain plug out?

As a point of reference, my 2004 T1950 project camper was winterized and stored in 2010 in northern OH near lake Erie (aka its cold up there). It was never used since. It is now all apart and being repaired. I have no line breaks, no water heater breaks and pink liquid is still coming out the open ends of the pipes when I move them around.

My 2007 T2499 project camper, sat winterized for 3 years at the prior owners house in MD before I bought it a year ago. When I got it, I blew out the antifreeze, pressurized the system, flushed it, then started taking it apart. The system was pressure tight and no leaks.

If the winterizing was done with good low temp antifreeze and done well, then your good.

I agree, adding some antifreeze to the traps cannot hurt, odds are after a year of no use, anything in them evaporated out and there is nothing left to freeze. If you have a flexible something to stick down the drain to see it if is dry, then leave it dry.

Good to hear from you.

John

[GoodoleBob]

Hi John,
Here’s my sequence.
I drain the water out the hot water heater. I also drain out the fresh water tank and then close the drain valve.
I bypass the hot water heater using the factory installed bypass valve to prevent from wasting the A/F in filling the water heater.
I use the syphon line shutoff valve down near the water pump to feed antifreze through each faucet one by one until it runs pink. Then I turn off that faucet and go on to the next one ending with the toilet until I have the antifreeze coming all water lines. I detach the shower hose line leaving it off until spring. I also pour some additional AF into each sink drain. I close the shutoff valve.
I dump about a cup of anifreeze into the previously emptied fresh water tank.
Last step I funnel feed some antifreeze into the previously emptied water heater ..enough to protect what little water may be remaining in the bottom of that tank...I leave that plug out for the winter.
This method had worked for the dozen or more seasons I’ve used it.
Bob

[JohnB]

Hi Bob,

Your winterizing approach is good, and the antifreeze should still be good for long time from what I have found out.

The only things I can pass on to consider with your winterizing process which may help are below. You may do these, just didn't mention them in your post.

1. As part of water draining process, open the low point drain valves on the hot and cold water lines. Open all faucets to break the vacuum and let air in so the water can gravity drain out. Close them after draining and before pumping in anti-freeze. By doing this, it helps get more water out of the lines and less dilation of the antifreeze when pumped in.

2. When you are done pumping the antifreeze through the system, open all faucets and leave them open until spring startup. In case something in the lines does freeze, the slushy liquid has a place to expand out of with the faucet open.

3. Flip back to normal the bypass valve on the bottom of the water heater after pumping the antifreeze in and the faucets are open. This will allow a little anti-freeze to spill/flow into the water heater that was trapped in the piping between the of 3 way bypass valve and the fitting on the bottom of the water heater.


I use the compressed air blow out method on our T310SR as we sometimes wet camp in the winter time. We have a heated tank compartment on that camper. On my project campers, I use the antifreeze method. Both work, different approaches and equipment needed.

John

[JimL3222]

I agree, adding some antifreeze to the traps cannot hurt, odds are after a year of no use, anything in them evaporated out and there is nothing left to freeze. If you have a flexible something to stick down the drain to see it if is dry, then leave it dry.

John[/QUOTE]

I would add antifreeze to the kitchen, tub/shower, and bathroom sink drains. I would presume that the gray water tanks were drained. There still however may be some smell coming from the tank. The drain traps prevent that smell from backing up into the trailer. I have also seen flies get into gray water tanks (perhaps down the breather vent pipe) that may then come out of their Purgatory dwelling into the trailer. $4 of RV antifreeze and 5-minutes time will keep his wife/girlfriend from making a discgusted face stepping in next spring. For me that is money and time well spent.