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For your camper with 1/2" fine thread wheel studs and "steel rims", 100 ft lb with dry threads is the recommended torque. If someone converted to aluminum rims that can be different.
In case you did not know, if you pull a wheel off for any reason you need to do a series of 3 re-torquing. Or if you had an extreme hard braking situation during towing.
1. Check between 20 to 50 miles. (very important)
2. Check between 75 to 100 miles.
3. Check between 100 to 150 miles.
You may find slightly different mileage recommendations and there is no exact it is going to fall apart a mile over or under but this needs to be checked.
By the 3rd check the lug nuts should trip the torque wrench immediately. If any took more torque, do a 4th one. They normally stop moving on the 3rd one. If you are up at 5 and more something is wrong. The nut is stretching or the stud. The first check it is almost guaranteed one or more lug nuts may take some torque. 2nd check you may have 1 take a little. This is normal.
Since there is no weight bearing center hub pilot on your trailer like on your truck or car, the lug nuts hold all the weight and prevent the wheel from coming off. The nut/rim flex more with no center hub until they are fully seated. Brand new rims with paint in the holes really has the issue of loosening up until all the paint is pressed out.
Hope this helps.
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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