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Old 11-08-2019, 05:48 PM   #61
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I remembered something today and feeling pretty foolish. The drain from the water heater has been dripping. And I haven't even connected it because the main exterior water spot is closer to the inlet valve. The dripping could certainly be the main cause of a lot of this moisture. I do also think the valve is contributing, and I'm replacing it too. But I've also ordered a new plug for the heater and will wait to reinstall it until I get the new plug.

I discovered today that the exterior drip had noticeably begun to dry, now 2 days later, and made the connection to the plug drip. The drip could be caused by the buildup of material in the tank too so that's also been solved. Fixing plug along with replacing the valve and correcting the plumbing/regulator should solve this issue I think. Some good news yay.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:59 PM   #62
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I have also realized today I do not have the exterior corner brackets. Does anyone have any extras for Atwood before I buy new?
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Old 11-17-2019, 06:41 PM   #63
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I do not have any used ones, but found the part number of the new ones.

Atwood 91928 Set of 4 corner brackets

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-Mobile.../dp/B00N5052FA

Even cheaper.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atwood-9192...-/222293183566

Odd the same place is selling with 2 very different prices. I have bought from them before and had positive experiences. The free shipping is most likely US mail so it may take a 2 to 5 days to get to you.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 11-17-2019, 09:50 PM   #64
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Thanks John!

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Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
I do not have any used ones, but found the part number of the new ones.

Atwood 91928 Set of 4 corner brackets

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-Mobile.../dp/B00N5052FA

Even cheaper.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atwood-9192...-/222293183566

Odd the same place is selling with 2 very different prices. I have bought from them before and had positive experiences. The free shipping is most likely US mail so it may take a 2 to 5 days to get to you.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 11-17-2019, 10:32 PM   #65
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I can't tell for sure in the pics here. Do you caulk around the heater after butyl tape or is tape enough?
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Old 11-18-2019, 07:58 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by noralee View Post
I can't tell for sure in the pics here. Do you caulk around the heater after butyl tape or is tape enough?
I myself, do caulk around the heater flange with either Dicor non leveling caulk or RV Proflex by Geocel after the butyl install. This adds a second layer of protection and it stops the dirt from sticking so badly to the exposed butyl gap. Just do not over do it on the caulk or the door will not close right. And you may have to wait for the caulk to cure up some if the door hits the caulk bead. You do not need a lot of caulk, just enough to cover the exposed butyl.

That said, the butyl will hold just fine creating a positive seal. You can add the caulk when you get the tube. You just might have to clean the butyl edge as dirt may have built up by the time you get back to it.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 12-05-2019, 03:18 PM   #67
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I went to reinstall my heater today and I unfortunately cracked my tee fitting at the bottom of the unit. The threaded part is now stuck inside (still threaded, it broke off flush). Anyone have any ideas how to remove it without 1. Damaging the metal threads and 2. Getting all the plastic bits stuck inside if I was able to chip it away?
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Old 12-05-2019, 03:20 PM   #68
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I myself,

Hope this helps

John
John, any ideas on my broken tee fitting situation explained in previous post?
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Old 12-06-2019, 06:52 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by noralee View Post
I went to reinstall my heater today and I unfortunately cracked my tee fitting at the bottom of the unit. The threaded part is now stuck inside (still threaded, it broke off flush). Anyone have any ideas how to remove it without 1. Damaging the metal threads and 2. Getting all the plastic bits stuck inside if I was able to chip it away?
I just saw your post and don't know if you were able to get the fitting out, assuming not, here are some thoughts.

Not sure what tools you have to work with, but here goes. The good news, this is plastic as it makes it easier. I have done this on steel fittings cracked off inside a small engine exhaust port.

The intent of this fix is to, slit the cracked off pipe part way through, then delicately dig out the fitting and crush it inwards to where you can grab it with pliers/screwdriver and then twist/yank it out.

1. First is to see if there is any small tab of the fitting hanging out. Hoping there is, we will call that the "tab" area. If there is none, then see if you can find the thread start of the threaded hole in the heater on the outside and call that the tab area.

2. Using a fine toothed hacksaw blade, gently slit the fitting part way through. Create at least 2 slits approx 1/4" to 3/8" to the left and right of the "tab" area. Look at the teeth on the saw blade, have the teeth point outwards and only saw in a pulling reverse motion. This helps drag the sawdust chips fall outward in the open. Lift the blade when you go back in and then touch down and pull out sawing only on the way out.

Be careful to not touch or cut into the threads of the heater. Look each time for the silver threads starting to show up, then for sure, stop. The fitting thickness before hitting the threads will only be a little over 1/32" at the most 1/16" below the ID of the fitting. Remember the heater fitting threads are tapered, try to cut on the taper angle. If you are 1/16" deep on the slit and no threads shown, stop at that point.

3. Get a small straight blade screwdriver and then gently/ small force tap the tab up into the center of the hole trying to work the screwdriver under the fitting. You are trying to crush the fitting upwards towards the center of the hole away from the heater threaded hole.

If it does not look like you are getting anywhere, stop and add a few more slits around the fitting. and of cut them a little deeper if you have not kissed the threads yet. Then tap and dig some more. Eventually the fitting will crush inwards where you can start to pry it off the heater threads and get it out.

Hope this helps

John

PS if you do not have a hacksaw blade, you can try a sheetrock (utility) knife. The only issue is it it hard to control the depth of cut this way and it does not clear plastic out, but it does weaken the fitting.
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Old 12-06-2019, 09:07 AM   #70
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This is smart. Thank you, John. Do you just go slowly to ensure no pieces get pushed inside the tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
I just saw your post and don't know if you were able to get the fitting out, assuming not, here are some thoughts.

Not sure what tools you have to work with, but here goes. The good news, this is plastic as it makes it easier. I have done this on steel fittings cracked off inside a small engine exhaust port.

PS if you do not have a hacksaw blade, you can try a sheetrock (utility) knife. The only issue is it it hard to control the depth of cut this way and it does not clear plastic out, but it does weaken the fitting.
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Old 12-06-2019, 10:29 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by noralee View Post
This is smart. Thank you, John. Do you just go slowly to ensure no pieces get pushed inside the tank?
Odds are favorable "something" might get inside the tank, even a small something. To reduce the odds of something getting in, try these:

1. Going slow and only sawing in the pulling direction.
2. If you have a vacuum with a crevice tool, run the vac while sawing.

Those 2 steps will lower anything going into the tank, but this type of repair will most likely have some small chips or sawdust flakes get inside.

A good practice to do in these cases is a flush and even a sanitize. For the flush, since you have it all apart out in the open, I'm assuming, after getting the fitting out, you can water flush the heater to flush out the tank. Using a garden hose, push water in the heater tank drain port and let it run out the hole that had the broken fitting. Tipping the tank to allow it to drain better out that fitting hole will help too.

Odds are high by flushing it out in the open like this, a lot of old mineral stuff may come out too that was lying in the bottom of the tank. Which is a good thing.
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Old 12-06-2019, 03:57 PM   #72
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Easy out from the hardware store. They have a reverse spiral the plastic remains will come out easily a 1/2 " easy out should work fine.
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:42 PM   #73
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Very slow and discouraging progress on the heater. I have not been able to tighten the drain plug enough so that it doesn't leak. I plumbing taped it too. The plug is new.

Does anyone have any tips for that? Something is off. Atwood 6gal
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Old 12-28-2019, 02:59 PM   #74
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John and everyone, I had to reflare the propane line and finally today got everything heated up. I thought it was a great day, but much to my dismay, I am now seeing leaking from a joint on the tank itself where there has been some corrosion. See pic. Is there a topical solution to this? A patch? Or is the tank done?

Edit: I think it's also leaking from the corroded part pictured leading me to believe that the tank needs replacing. Can someone confirm? Anyone have one for sale?

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Odds are favorable "something" might get inside the tank, even a small something. To reduce the odds of something getting in, try these:
.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20191228_164406132.jpg (45.9 KB, 6 views)
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Old 12-29-2019, 12:57 PM   #75
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I actually discovered a shortcut with your method. Once there was a groove sawed deep enough into the plastic fitting, I flipped the knife over and used the flat side, wedged it into the groove, and untwisted the whole of the remaining piece out. It saved work because I didn't have to chip the piece away, and also avoided more pieces, particulates, from getting inside the tank. Heads up info for the next person who runs into this challenge.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Odds are favorable "something" might get inside the tank, even a small something. To reduce the odds of something getting in, try these:

1. Going slow and only sawing in the pulling direction.
2. If you have a vacuum with a crevice tool, run the vac while sawing.

Those 2 steps will lower anything going into the tank, but this type of repair will most likely have some small chips or sawdust flakes get inside.

A good practice to do in these cases is a flush and even a sanitize. For the flush, since you have it all apart out in the open, I'm assuming, after getting the fitting out, you can water flush the heater to flush out the tank. Using a garden hose, push water in the heater tank drain port and let it run out the hole that had the broken fitting. Tipping the tank to allow it to drain better out that fitting hole will help too.

Odds are high by flushing it out in the open like this, a lot of old mineral stuff may come out too that was lying in the bottom of the tank. Which is a good thing.
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:33 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noralee View Post
John and everyone, I had to reflare the propane line and finally today got everything heated up. I thought it was a great day, but much to my dismay, I am now seeing leaking from a joint on the tank itself where there has been some corrosion. See pic. Is there a topical solution to this? A patch? Or is the tank done?

Edit: I think it's also leaking from the corroded part pictured leading me to believe that the tank needs replacing. Can someone confirm? Anyone have one for sale?
If the tank is leaking from that corroded area, that is not a simple fix short of a certified tank welder to take out the old fitting and put a new one in if you are wanting a long term fix. The cost for that may be more than a new tank.

This member did buy a new tank, but the wrong tank and he was trying to sell it. I do not know if he sold it or if it is the right one for yours. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...lve-19237.html
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Old 12-29-2019, 10:36 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by noralee View Post
I actually discovered a shortcut with your method. Once there was a groove sawed deep enough into the plastic fitting, I flipped the knife over and used the flat side, wedged it into the groove, and untwisted the whole of the remaining piece out. It saved work because I didn't have to chip the piece away, and also avoided more pieces, particulates, from getting inside the tank. Heads up info for the next person who runs into this challenge.
Great! Thanks for reporting back. You did good, and got lucky. You needed a good break from all the ill things going on!

The plastic fitting may have been what saved the day on being able to unscrew it. The steel fittings I had broke off were steel and they where rusted in plus broke off. They do not always want to unscrew out.
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:30 PM   #78
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I came to that same conclusion, John. I went ahead and ordered the item below. I actually found a used-in new condition from Amazon warehouse for 85$. It is supposed to only have damaged packaging but product unused. We'll see. It is an inner tank only replacement with fittings. I watched a video and it seemed doable and I have a great helper for this so I'm feeling ok about it. Seems like the biggest challenge is getting the coils back on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004A2YH1M#Ask

Edit to add that I read through many product q&A's and it does appear to be the right fit for my 6gal propane, even though I'm not sure that the item number replacement is accurately listed. I couldn't find that info so went with the descriptions buyers/sellers gave in the answer section.


Quote:
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If the tank is leaking from that corroded area, that is not a simple fix short of a certified tank welder to take out the old fitting and put a new one in if you are wanting a long term fix. The cost for that may be more than a new tank.

This member did buy a new tank, but the wrong tank and he was trying to sell it. I do not know if he sold it or if it is the right one for yours. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...lve-19237.html
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:35 PM   #79
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Great! Thanks for reporting back. You did good, and got lucky. You needed a good break from all the ill things going on!

.
Ha! Reading this chuckling. (And still awake.) I used the water in the camper for a moment a bit ago. Then I heard a wooshing sound. I went to the back and the hose inlet was spraying water all over. The head right at the camper appears to have broken from the inlet base! Unbelievable. Couldn't hold it together for 1 more week until it gets replaced. That whole setup will be replaced when the new tank gets here end of the week. But it was nice to be reminded of that luck for just a moment.
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Old 01-16-2020, 09:00 PM   #80
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So far we have replaced the leaky tank with a new one, and we have replaced the entire water inlet hookup situation. Pictures attached.

The new regulator is leaking, so I think i need to try a different one--JohnB I think you've already suggested one that I can refer back to.

That's the only issue so far and then I can check back to the water that was dripping from the outside and ensure its resolved (pretty sure it is, since we stopped a leaky water heater drain plug and replaced the leaky inlet valve. Still need to extra seal edges with caulk.
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