Originally Posted by shelleybill
Our Heater is gas only, I think. Model # GC6AA-8E
Spec # 141126
Serial # 96141077907
I'm not even sure the thing actually ignited but it wasn't too long before I turned it off, maybe an hour or so.
Hope this is good info so you can guide me on getting her up and running again.
By your model number,
You have a combo gas and electric water heater, 6 gallon with electronic ignition rev no 8.
If the gas burner was actually on, for a full hour or so with no water in the tank, that is not good. But, you said it may not have even lit.
At this point, lets start with the basics and hoping you did not melt something apart. Assuming the heater is filled with water and holding full camper water pressure, then the system is at least not leaking.
Lets start with the LP gas controls as you can see and hear them. The 120 VAC electric element you cannot hear anything, and if was on for more then a few minutes and no water in the heater, then the element is most likely burnt out. But hold that thought for now and let's see if you can get the gas side to do something.
Corrosion on the terminals is a common issue with water heaters. Since yours has electronic ignition, when you flip switch to turn on the water heater for LP gas, within a few seconds you should hear a "clunk" outside (the gas valve opening, ) and real soon "click, click click" the ignition trying to start.
If you do not hear any of those noises, (be outside looking and listening with the cover down and someone in inside flip the switch) then that is problem 1.
Assuming you hear nothing, lets start with the basics.
1. Are any fuses blown in the power converter? The heater needs 12 VDC to operate.
At this point you do not even need the LP gas on, it can be, does not have to me.
2. Assuming no fuses are blown, the battery is charged and hooked up, then when you flip the heater on gas, the clunk and clicking should start within a few seconds. If nothing happens, the first thing is to check the wiring connections for corrosion.
Turn the heater off. Turn the battery off and no shore line power on so there is no 12 volts DC going to the heater.
On the black control PC board, on the top left, unplug the wire harness of the PC board (there are 2 plugs) and clean up the terminals. Even pushing the connector on a few times helps clean it up. If you see corrosion, then emery paper or fine sand paper the terminals and clean then after before plugging back in.
This pic is of a newer rev then yours, but we can talk to it. If yours looks nothing like it, we need a pic of yours. Sorry for the rotated pics, I'll have to fix that later.
Above the gas burner is the T Stat and ECO sensors. And there is the dirty clear thermal fuse krazedave was talking about connected to the T stat.
Those wires have push on terminals and they are notorious for getting corroded and not making contact. You need to unplug each, clean them up, and put them back on.
Be careful, use needle nose pliers to grip the wire terminal while holding the center of the T stat and or ECO switch "in" with a screw driver or other round ended punch etc. The thermal fuse is delicate, take extra care in unhooking that and look up close to see if it is burnt out.
Clean up the wire connections on both ends of the thermal fuse.
When all terminals are cleaned and back on, turn the power on and try again. If you here the clunk and clicking, you are gaining. Then go turn on the LP gas if is not on and the heater may run. If you hear nothing, then do you have a volt meter or 12 volt test light? will explain that if it comes to be.
If you get the clunk and clicks and nothing lights, then come back for more too.
Here is what the ECO and T stat look like behind the foam holding it on
The sensor being removed
You have to hold the center of the ECO and T stat when unplugging the wires our you may damage the sensor. The wire terminals can come off hard sometimes. Wiggle and pull at the same time.
What year is your camper?
Hope this helps
Once past the gas burner working, we can talk about the electric element.