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04-05-2017, 08:02 PM
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#141
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Thanks JohnB, I am actually looking for a good pic.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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04-05-2017, 08:13 PM
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#142
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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I couldn't find a really good pic.
Hopefully, this will give you an idea of the boards I am speaking of. I am trying to come up a game plan for this weekend.
Thanks,
Tommie
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04-05-2017, 09:39 PM
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#143
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine
Hopefully, this will give you an idea of the boards I am speaking of. I am trying to come up a game plan for this weekend.
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OK got it. Yup, the 2 side corners in the mid section.
Please confirm the thickness and width of the corner stud?
Please confirm how long will the corner stud good wood left be after you cut off the bad wood?
Also approx how long is the entire corner stud if you replaced the whole stud?
My reply above fits to your question, just I do not know what sizes you are dealing with. This little camper is made from much thinner wood then I would of thought so I need to ask. The newer ones are much thicker and you can do different things with it.
Thanks
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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04-06-2017, 07:15 AM
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#144
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
OK got it. Yup, the 2 side corners in the mid section.
Please confirm the thickness and width of the corner stud?
They are 1x2s. Same as the walls. There are two that run vertical and butt into each other in each corner.
Please confirm how long will the corner stud good wood left be after you cut off the bad wood?
I will have to do measurements.
Also approx how long is the entire corner stud if you replaced the whole stud?
Now that I have the front take apart, I can get the measurements. It is supposed to be storming here with possible tornadoes in the area today so may not be until tomorrow before I can get measurements.
My reply above fits to your question, just I do not know what sizes you are dealing with. This little camper is made from much thinner wood then I would of thought so I need to ask. The newer ones are much thicker and you can do different things with it.
I was surprised at how thin the original wood was. I would have thought 2x4s. I was afraid that things would not fit back in correctly if I changed over to thicker wood. I probably could have gotten away with it on the floor but decided to leave as is.
Thanks
John
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Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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04-27-2017, 02:51 PM
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#145
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine
Thanks,
Tommie
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Good afternoon,
Well, I am finally able to try to get some more done. Had to take a couple of weeks off due to work and weather.
It looks like the passenger side window towards the front and the door needs to come out to take off the metal siding. Is there anything I need to know about the door before attempting to take it out?
Thanks,
Tommie
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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04-27-2017, 08:00 PM
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#146
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine
It looks like the passenger side window towards the front and the door needs to come out to take off the metal siding. Is there anything I need to know about the door before attempting to take it out?
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Not really. It's pretty much like a big window. The biggest thing is frame alignment, since the door frame itself is pretty flimsy. Maybe if you can wedge some shims in between the door and frame on the top and bottom before you remove it, that'll help hold the shape. But without shims, when you reinstall, it should just be a matter of using putty/butyl tape, and making sure it's square when you screw it back down. Just watch how tight the screws are now so you don't tighten more on reinstall- the frame is an L shape, and it'll flex in and make the door hard to open/close if the frame twists too much.
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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04-27-2017, 08:28 PM
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#147
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Thanks Sunline Fan.
We'll see how it goes. The screws are rusted so I am not sure what I am going to find when I take it off. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Do have another question though. I need to get new screws, I think I read on someone's thread (read so many - may have been one of JohnB's) that stainless steel phillips works pretty well? I don't care much for the original screws that came out of the trim. I have chewed up 3 bits so far trying to get the screws out. I am thinking for the trim, windows and door.
Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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04-27-2017, 08:34 PM
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#148
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine
Do have another question though. I need to get new screws, I think I read on someone's thread (read so many - may have been one of JohnB's) that stainless steel phillips works pretty well? I don't care much for the original screws that came out of the trim. I have chewed up 3 bits so far trying to get the screws out. I am thinking for the trim, windows and door.
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Your originals are hex head, right?
Phillips could work, but I think they have a greater chance of stripping and not having as much torque on them. I'd see about using #2 square heads as a next choice, I think you can put more torque on them without stripping. I think this is a better question for JohnB though.
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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04-27-2017, 08:50 PM
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#149
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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The originals are hex heads. I can go back with what came out. I was thinking of what would be easier to deal with now and in the future if for some reason I have to take stuff apart again.
Thanks again.
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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04-27-2017, 09:43 PM
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#150
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Hi Tommie,
On the door removal, look and see if your door can be unscrewed from the hinges at the door frame. If it can, I would recommend you take the door off before taking the frame out of the camper. This way, the weight of the door is now out of the equation and you can lift the door out without damaging it.
If the putty tape is dry and crumbled, the door frame will come out real easy. If the putty tape is stuck good, having the door off the frame will help you deal with pulling the door frame and not have to worry about the weight of the door. Remember the heat gun if it is stuck good.
This post may help give you some tips
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ics-11717.html
Like Sunline Fan said, when you are putting the door frame back in, here there are extra precautions to make sure the door and frame are true to each other before screwing the new screws down. The gap all the way around needs to be even. My post should help on that, but ask away when you get to that point.
You mentioned screws, I myself have converted to stainless and ones that I now have are the #2 square bit. This type of head can take lots more torque then the Phillips in stainless. Stainless is soft in the 300 series stainless (304 or 316) you would be getting and the Phillips will strip more easy. That said, I have used Philips before I had access to the #2 square bit. The Phillips do work and the stainless does not rust. Just odds are, you will get some that strip and you take them out, pitch em and put new in.
This is what I use. My son found this place and it is quickly the go to place now for stainless. Albany County Fasteners Stainless Steel Square Drive Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws #8
I use no 8. pan head sheet metal screw, square drive x 1" and then some at 1 1/2" all depends where you are using them.
I have not found many of these square drive ones at the big box stores in stainless in our area, they have Phillips and they are in small bag quantity and cost a bunch for 2 to 3 screws. Albany Fasteners is better pricing and free shipping if the order is over $35 so we group up the whole order at once. It takes time to figure out what you need, but the cost savings is worth it. Buy extra, you always seem to need them.
If you want new steel ones with the square drive, AP Products is one brand. Search Results : AP Products, RV/Mobile Home Hardware
Amazon sells them. This is just one hit. Find the AP product number then search Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Products-012-...s=screws+white
Also found the # 8 stainless on Amazon, but the price is 3X more then Albany Fastener but free shipping https://www.amazon.com/Square-Drive-...t+metal+screws
So shop where it fits best for you.
Hope this helps
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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04-28-2017, 07:47 PM
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#151
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Good evening,
Thanks to all for the advice and tips. I plan to get back to work tomorrow, weather permitting.
Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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05-01-2017, 10:23 PM
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#152
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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A little more progress
Good evening,
Made a little progress this weekend. I was able to remove the window and door so that the metal siding can be pulled back to access the corner piece that needed to come out. Glad I took the siding apart. The top corner piece above that 1x2 had water stains and mold.
Luckily the piece above that is still solid, a little stained at the end that connects to the corner piece, but still solid. Thanks for the heads up on taking the door out of the frame first. That worked very well. I was excited because the window came out with no problem and then, with a little work the door and frame. Took advantage of the high 80's weather, it helped with the task, that and the age of the caulking tape. Then ran into more of those tiny PIA staples. Some of the tape around the door still had the backing paper attached but the door frame looks solid, no stains that I can see. The same with that side window.
I will really need to pay attention when applying new tape to make sure all of the paper is remove.
I need find one of these but I can't seem to find one with the same dimensions.
If anyone has purchased one recently if you could please direct me to where you found yours it would be much appreciated.
I took the advice of JohnB and ordered square pan head steel screws ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I hope these will work. They should be here tomorrow. Still need to get lauan and paneling. Next, take apart the driver side metal siding so that I can get to that corner. Let's hope I can put it all back to together.
Thanks for looking. Have a good evening.
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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05-02-2017, 10:48 AM
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#153
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Hi Tommie,
Wow, you are doing great work!!! Super.
Sorry I cannot help on the door handle light. I think Sunline Fan had some link to one of them. This topic comes up often on the older campers.
Thanks
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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05-02-2017, 10:57 AM
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#154
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Sorry I cannot help on the door handle light. I think Sunline Fan had some link to one of them. This topic comes up often on the older campers.
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I did have, but I think it too has been discontinued. The old style (early '80s) plastic one has long been discontinued, but there was a similar design metal one still available that was smaller. Might be the same as this one, usually all chrome. A couple years ago I found them regularly, now they are MIA.
The lens is nothing more than a piece of opaque white plastic with two screws that hold it, so I'm sure you could easily make another.
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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05-02-2017, 11:19 AM
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#155
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Thanks for the responses. I have the lens. I took it off to inspect the light as it did not seem to be working. The bulb was in two pieces so I put in a new bulb but it still does not appear to be working. Not sure if it is a wiring problem or a switch somewhere in the camper that controls it. I need to take it off and replace the caulking tape behind it. I can inspect the wiring then. I do not see a switch on the inside but have not had a chance to look at the manual.
Thanks again,
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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05-02-2017, 11:22 AM
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#156
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
I did have, but I think it too has been discontinued. The old style (early '80s) plastic one has long been discontinued, but there was a similar design metal one still available that was smaller. Might be the same as this one, usually all chrome. A couple years ago I found them regularly, now they are MIA.
The lens is nothing more than a piece of opaque white plastic with two screws that hold it, so I'm sure you could easily make another.
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H'mm, I found the some of the old posts on this, but yes, they are coming up as broken links.
This thread
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...ine-16432.html
And this thread
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...oor-15170.html
This link worked to the lens
https://www.amazon.com/74-32-030-Bar...s=bargman+lens
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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05-02-2017, 11:22 AM
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#157
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Hi Tommie,
Wow, you are doing great work!!! Super.
Sorry I cannot help on the door handle light. I think Sunline Fan had some link to one of them. This topic comes up often on the older campers.
Thanks
John
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Thank you! I just hope I can put it all back together. You all have been a tremendous help and it is greatly appreciated, let me tell ya!!!
Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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05-02-2017, 12:08 PM
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#158
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine
I need find one of these but I can't seem to find one with the same dimensions.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
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Yep, I can still find the lens every so often, but not the whole assembly. That Bargman handle used a completely different lens from the one above though, it was 3D vs. flat plastic.
Here was the assembly on my '86. It did have a switch inside the door. I actually see that same two place switch at the edge of Tommie's picture above.
Here's the two place switch. As I recall (we are talking 13 years ago...), the outer one worked the handle light, the inner worked the water pump (which was in the cabinet right below there).
I know some Sunlines of this vintage had porch lights added higher up, the plastic type that newer Sunlines used. I believe I heard from someone with one that that light and the handle light both worked on the same switch. So if you have an upper porch light, it's probably the same circuit.
With where the bulb on this handle is located compared to the lens, the bulb can put off a lot of heat and potentially damage/melt through the plastic lens. Once you get it working, I'd swap it out with an LED, just so you don't destroy the good lens you have.
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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05-02-2017, 04:37 PM
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#159
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Thanks Sunline Fan.
The cover I have I actually took off to check the bulb. It doesn't appear to be melted at all. It had been painted over so I am guessing the light was not working for the previous owner either. I actually did try that outer switch since it did not appear to work for anything else. I was plugged into the garage and had the battery turned on but the light still did not work.
Question regarding the LED bulbs. The kid was telling me that LED bulbs have to be able to breath and that I would not be able to use them in the TT because the covers did not allow the bulbs to breath, basically they would overheat. I use LED bulbs here at home but they are in ceiling fans with open sconces. I wanted to use LED bulbs in TT.
Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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05-02-2017, 04:41 PM
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#160
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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One more thing I forgot to add to my last post. I received the screws from Amazon today. They are AP Products screws. The website said they were steel sheet metal screws. When I received them, the container says Zinc. Good or bad to use on the TT? If my memory serves me correctly Zinc rusts, at least those I have used here at home?
Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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