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Old 02-16-2017, 05:55 PM   #61
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Hi Tommie,

Yes, that big bit does work with those little screws... the big diameter is a counter bore for the head of the screw. The little small end of the big bit is for the small screw. Try it, you will see.

Here is a U tube I found last night that talks on the wood grain and how to select how to go cross grain with the screws verses with the grain. It might help for future protects

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Old 02-16-2017, 06:48 PM   #62
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Thanks JohnB.

Quote:
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I would suggest this for your situation. Since you are doing qty 2, 2 x 2's glued and screwed together to join to the 2 x 3, then just put 1 screw in the center of each 2 x 2 to the 2 x 3. These would go in from the top of the 2 x 2 down into the 2 x 3. This makes it a lot easier to screw in place in the camper, your screw layout does not have to be so critical and you have 2 good solid screws holding the floor joists in place. 2 Kreg screws is as strong if not stronger the 4 staples.
I think what I came up with is what you described here. I am basically putting one screw in each of the 2x2s that will be meeting up with the 2x3 which will still be 2 screws per joist. I started testing on the far left joist first. The two new pieces are screwed together(forgot the glue though) and then I put it in place to make sure it fit. It is tight in there that the top did not pop up (this was my problem child if you remember) but I haven't attached it to the 2x3 or the existing wood yet. Wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly first. The two new pieces are screwed together from the side with two screws.


Naturally you predrill the 2 x 2's before hand and you will need to work out a method on how to hold the boards tight so there is no gap and the top is flush before putting the 1st screw in. The 2nd screw is easier as the 1st is holding the joint.

Practice on some scrap wood until you get the hang of this. The first time your sort of all thumbs, but it comes easy once you figure the jig and depth settings out.
I still haven't figured out the jig yet. Tried it on the left piece and it was not right. I guess I need more practice.
I did finally get all but one of the carriage bolts in and put some rot doctor on the old joists. I have to shorten one of the carriage bolts. It comes down near the propane line so I couldn't get the washer and nut on it.


Slowly but surely making progress.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:58 PM   #63
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There you go, GOOD!!! Yes what you showed on the far left problem child joist and then put 2 screws top down into the 2 x 3, 1 in each 2 x 2 is good.

The jig problem, what did not come out right? Setting the depth of the bit and the jig are the 2 things that normally create the problem. Did you clamp the jig to the wood you where drilling? The jig has to be clamped or it will move around on you.

Pics help here too.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:14 PM   #64
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I was trying to connect the two new pieces together using the jig. I ended up just screwing two screws straight in. They seem to be holding well. If I do not figure out the jig then I will send pics this weekend of my setup. I think it is the settings on the jig are off and the screws were to long for connecting the two 2x2s. Will probably be the right length for the 2x2 to 2x3 join.

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Old 02-16-2017, 07:39 PM   #65
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Yup, the first time does not always work exactly right. Amazing how many ways the instructions can be interpreted.... It took me a few holes to figure it out too.

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I think it is the settings on the jig are off and the screws were to long for connecting the two 2x2s. Will probably be the right length for the 2x2 to 2x3 join.
H'mm, this sounds more like the drill depth collar is not right for 1 1/2" wood and maybe a little of the jig not set right. The 2 1/2" long screw should work on 1 1/2" wood but if the depth collar is too deep, the screw will go in too far. Check the depth settings.

On connection the 2, 2 x 2's together, those you can Kreg them if you want, but since they are out in the open "before" you install them, you can just screw them straight in the side from one to the other. No need to have to Kreg them. Just clamp the 2 together, pilot drill some of the first one (shank end) and the screw will create it's own hole on the other 2 x 2 (the thread side)

The bolted 2 x 3 looks good.

Keep it up. Your doing good!

John
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Old 02-17-2017, 05:53 PM   #66
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If you bought the kreg jr. the scale is on the case upper surface. Measure one of the settings such as 1-1/2" to see if it actually is 1-1/2" (nominal for 1-1/2 " wood) not the actual dimension of the wood. Measure the wood for actual dimensions. adjust collar accordingly. Select screw length based on this....if the scale doesn't agree with your wood dimensions.

You can possibly take a piece of scrap wood you are screwing into and set it against the stop of the jig scale, then back the drill bit back a little and lock the collar stop on the bit.

Hope this can help.

In a nut shell your wood dimensions (Sunline's and yours combined) may measure differently than kreg tool is designed for. If so adjust accordingly.

Any place you can screw straight thru one piece into the other (side by side) for example, I would do, with tite bonb glue or liquid nails, etc.,as the glue can make for a much stronger connection.

keep in mind any screw that has been put in, kreg, or otherwise can be backed out and glue the pieces and screwed back together.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:04 PM   #67
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I just saw a video on the kreg R3 jig. That jig looks like it uses the wood one is working with to set the collar stop. It kinda does what I was suggesting.

It seems kreg has many jigs. eah a bit different.
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:19 PM   #68
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Good evening.

Took advantage of the wonderful weather today. I figured out what I was doing wrong with the Kreg and was able to get all of the holes drilled today. I only screwed down board #2 and then decided to wait on the rest to make sure, again, that I am on the right track as not all of wood is lining up. I will need to get a hand plane for the boards that stick up. Pics below show what I am up against tomorrow.

Boards 1 and 2 - Problem child turned out to be the easiest of the bunch.


Boards 3 and 4 - The top of the new wood is flush. Top is flush with the 2x3 and the back end is flush with the OSB but the existing 2x2 does not line up with the new wood. Not sure if this makes a difference.



Boards 5 and 6 - Same issue as 3 and 4.



Boards 7 and 8 -



Boards 9 and 10 - I think board 9 will need to be hand planed to be flush with the new wood. Board 10 (next to the wall), I am planning to sister a piece next it for strength. The damaged part has been treated with RotDoctor. I had considered chiseling out the bad part but was afraid of going into the membrane. The RotDoctor did hardened it quite a bit.



More progress. Still slow but I'll take it. If you see anything that needs to be changed, please let me know. That is all for this newbie for today. As always, thank you.

Tommie
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:41 PM   #69
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Hi Tommie,

Outstanding!!! Yeh!!! Good work. Now you have it going good.

I would say on the old boards that bend down, don't worry about them, the new wood is carrying the load and you can screw the floor to the new wood.

On the one old floor joist that sticks up, yes that one needs to be trimmed off or it will mess up the floor plywood. You can chisel or saw it off pending what you have to work with. Of course buying a wood plane will work too and you gained a new for life tool! The collection will continue to grow the more building you do.

You doing great!!

The weather here in central Ohio was outstanding too. The next week is supposed to be this good too between 50 and 60F. It went to around 63F and mostly sunshine today. It was a great day for a winter camping trip. But our camper is in the frame repair mode right now...

John
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:56 PM   #70
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Thanks JohnB!

I have been following your thread. Way of over my head! But you are getting it done. I am amazed at your skill level and am very grateful for your and others advice and help. It does seems that with every project, I acquire new tools. And hopefully when the camper is done, I will have gained new skills as well.

70 degrees here today and tomorrow. No excuse not to get a little done this weekend.


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Tommie
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:22 PM   #71
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Good evening,

I do believe she is finally ready for some plywood. Everything is glued and screwed in. Seems to be tight.


I did have one that I only had room to put in one screw. That one is under the dinette seat so I am not too worried about it.


I didn't think I would get this done. Will get the plywood one day this week.


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Old 02-19-2017, 06:28 PM   #72
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Looking Good!

Keep up the good work.

Thanks

John
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Old 02-20-2017, 04:14 PM   #73
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Yes, looking good Tommie.

I thank all of you for posting the pics of your various projects. I now fully understand how campers are built.....almost the opposite of a home. [emoji3]
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Old 02-20-2017, 06:36 PM   #74
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Nice job Tommie! Keep an eye on when you lay the plywood in. You may get a little rocking and rolling where the carriage bolt heads are sticking up but since you are on the end of the camper, it should be ok.


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Old 02-20-2017, 07:33 PM   #75
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Good evening.

Thanks to you all.

Steve P., I was wondering how it was going to work out with the carriage bolts. I wasn't sure if the plywood would lay flat. Do you recall how much the plywood sticks up? I looked at yours yesterday and it looked like yours was about the same.

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Old 02-21-2017, 07:12 PM   #76
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Hi Tommie,

If the heads of the carriage bolts create a problem, you can countersink a small depression in the plywood where the bolt heads go.

After the plywood is cut and fit to size, mark the front wall with a pencil etc on where each bolt center line is approximately. Then lay it in on the floor and line it up like you would have it install. Use a hammer and block of 2 x 4 etc. placed on top of the plywood where the bolt heads are. Give it a couple good hits on each bolt. This will leave a mark on the plywood where the bolt head is.

Then take the plywood out, and chisel, drill, countersink or other means a small depth pocket for each bolt head. Then install and it will lay flat.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-21-2017, 08:56 PM   #77
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Good evening,

I am in the process of cutting the insulation foam board. Since the membrane is sagging, what can be used to support the insulation board? The only thing I can think of doing is putting a couple of screws from underneath to hold the membrane up so that it does not sag (attach it to the the new wood with some small screws).

Any ideas or thoughts on this?

JohnB thanks for the carriage bolts idea. I will give that a try.


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Old 02-21-2017, 09:02 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
Good evening.

Thanks to you all.

Steve P., I was wondering how it was going to work out with the carriage bolts. I wasn't sure if the plywood would lay flat. Do you recall how much the plywood sticks up? I looked at yours yesterday and it looked like yours was about the same.

Thanks,
Tommie
Believe me when I tell you, this isn't the first time I screwed up and left the carriage bolts sticking up too high. I always for get that I should lay the plywood, mark where the hole needs to be and then countersink with a paddle bit then put the bolt through so the head is flush. You can do what John suggested or do what I do. Lay the plywood down, measure and mark the center where the carriage bolt head is/should be. Take a paddle bit that is just a bit wider than the head. Lift the plywood up a bit and drill straight through the plywood. set the sheet back down and the hole should be all the way around the bolt head and the sheet lays flat. Do the same thing all the way down the line. You may not hit them all exact but you can clean them up with a chisel or a dremel tool. They may not all be that pretty but it isn't a show stopper.

Steve P
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Old 02-21-2017, 09:24 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
Good evening,

I am in the process of cutting the insulation foam board. Since the membrane is sagging, what can be used to support the insulation board? The only thing I can think of doing is putting a couple of screws from underneath to hold the membrane up so that it does not sag (attach it to the the new wood with some small screws).

Any ideas or thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Tommie
They do make roofing or metal siding screws with a rubber washer under the head. The rubber helps with a water seal and can help isolating a corrosion reaction between the screw and the metal.

They make several types. I found this one at Lowe's to link so you can see it. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Teks-100-Co...Screws/3316528

They may have others that do the same thing and are in smaller quantities.

Your thought of screwing to the new wood floor joists will work. My first thought is not to penetrate the barrier but Sunline already did that on mine in certain spots. The key being, make a water tight seal when you do it.
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Old 02-21-2017, 09:54 PM   #80
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Thanks JohnB,

There were a couple of screws underneath our Sunny as well used to hold up the clamps that was holding the wiring running underneath to the battery. One left a hole I guess from when the wood rotted away and the screw pulled away. This is the hole that I covered with the silver tape inside and underneath. The other screw I have not removed yet.


I may need to replace the clamps if I can't find another way to support the wires underneath. I don't really have any good pictures of the underside of the camper.



Thanks,
Tommie
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