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Old 08-04-2020, 09:27 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by tony17112acst View Post
John,
Working with the Proflex RV (clear version) was almost exactly working with silicon. If it gets on an edge or surface you don't want it on, you got to wipe it off immediately with a paper towel or something, because it dries fast, and like silicon, a wet rag will not remove it. Mineral spirits works great on it if it's on your fingers, etc. But I did not need to use soapy water on my finger to "tool" it in. Be aware that it DOES shrink considerably as it dries, but since it's so sticky, I han no problems with any undesirable gaps forming. I chose not to use Dicor (non-leveling) because it does collect dirt easily and it would look terrible on the front. So I do have this fear with the Proflex Rv, because silicon does the same thing, and this seems to have a lot of properties silicon has ...we'll see.
Hi Tony,

Thanks for reporting back. Lets compare notes on the Proflex RV.

Did you apply the chalk during the heat and high sun of the day? Any chance you knew the temperature of the day at the time you applied it?

From your description of characteristics, what you are saying points to temperature at the time of application. I found the same things you are describing when using Dicor non-leveling and Proflex when I applied the product to sun heated aluminium. Everything changed about how the product reacted, in a very negative way.

I learned the hard way to "not" apply the either product during high temp sunny days. I now do it all inside out of the sun completely if I can. If I have to do it outside then late in the day after the siding cooled some or early in the morning. I have applied both Dicor and Proflex RV between 45 to 75F temp. I actually did use Dcor even colder, but not very much of it. I try not to get above approx 70F air temp or the siding that is hotter then that. I can tell there is a difference between 70 and 75. Anything up in the 80's, gets real complex, real fast.

On Proflex RV colder allows it to not dry as quick. If you apply too hot, it dries almost instantly and starts rolling up in a ball making tooling it out close to impossible.

It is solvent based caulk and it appears temperature affect how fast it starts to flash off the solvents. And, when it sets up fast like that, it does shrink fast too. But, when the temps are lower, 60 to 70 F, it all changes, to being very manageable. You still need to work quickly, I only apply 2 to 4 ft at the most before I start tooling (smoothing) it out. Again with a wet soapy water finger. I never timed it, but you have about maybe 2 to 3 minutes max to do what you are going to do and be moved on. Again, at 60 to 70F.

If I over apply where I did not want it, then I use a rag with Naphtha on it and it will take it off totally if you get to it before it starts curing up. The mineral spirits works too, but it leaves more oil residue where the Naphtha does not leave much is anything.

The shrinking, it seems when it dries too fast, it shrinks a lot. When it cures more slow, I have not seen an issue with large shrinking or any real notable shrink.

Sticky, when it is in the wet stage, yes it does stick. When it cures through, I on purpose use it over the Dicor as there is no stick to it. It is not as slippery as silicone, but more smooth and so far, dirt does not bond right on it like Dicor can sometimes.

Also to note, I use the white and all the experience I have is on white so far. I do have 2 tubes of clear in case I needed it, but have not used them yet. Colorants in plastic I know can alter the characteristics some, I'm just not sure if color alters Proflex RV. I have a fellow Sunline friend who sold his Sunline and bought a Forest River camper, he uses the clear on the fiberglass siding and has not reported any issues different then I have.

Here are a few pics of my uses. I need to make a post on just this.

Smooth rod gun and soapy water


Shore line cord hatch. Old putty tape, cleaned and old excess trimmed off


Gun applied, I wiggle a little.


Tooled out with soapy wet finger




Slide flange applied, giggly a little.


Tooled out with soapy wet finger


Cargo door tooled out


Window flange applied. Again a little wiggly.


Tooled out


I also made sure I can get the Proflex RV off the camper if I ever need to service the item sealed. Both the Dicor and the Proflex RV does comes off. Heat gun warm it, use a stiff plastic scraper to get the most of the goo off without scratching the siding, then before it cures up solid again, use mineral spirits to get the fuzzy let overs. Then Naphtha to get the left over mineral spirits off. Add heat gun heat if it cures up too hard in the removing process. Just do not heat active non dried up mineral spirits, it is flammable.

John
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Old 08-04-2020, 10:36 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by tony17112acst View Post

Black streaks are what I hate most about having this camper, which is awesome in other many other areas. These streaks are almost impossible to remove in the Krytal Kote. I have tried so many chemicals and tested so many ways to remove them! I once was told to use the product Awesome. I did and my rag was getting whiter and whiter. When I did searches on it, I found that it's a paint remover! You'll find it in art forums; it's what people use to dissolve paint off small figurines to repaint. So I will never again use it.
Hi Tony,

Lets talk about your awesome experience and how you used it if we can. I have had others state they had bad experiences, but they never reported back what they did. We are trying to learn here, so others can learn too what not to do. I'm not trying to talk you into using it again, just trying to learn what was different in the use to create a negative reaction.

I have been using LA's Totally Awesome since 2003 and never experienced what you have noted. And I have been using it on our T310SR since 2007 and still see no ill effects. But their is a method on using it.

First need to make sure we have the correct product as there is another product called awesome, but it is not the same product. It is LA's Totally Awesome. Awesome All Purpose Concentrated Cleaner (32oz) | LA's Totally Awesome

The bottle says to always dilute it or use too. And it lists a boat load of dilutions suggestions for different cleaning.

First is temperature, I recommend "not" doing this on a hot sunny day in bright sun. After 6:00 pm, early morning, or a cloudy day on a summer day is OK. Everything drys too fast in the hot summer sun.

As a general wash of the camper, I start with a bucket and about 2 to 2 1/2 gallons of water in it. I put about 16 oz in the bucket. (1/2 a 32 oz bottle). I'm not measuring with a measuring cup, just pouring about that much in.

You "must", wet the siding first. Then using a car wash medium softness bristle brush on a pole, wash the camper. Do not let it dry on. Keep a wet edge. Do a small enough area, top to bottom that it does not dry. Then, you "must" rinse it off thoroughly before moving to the next area. You may only be able to do 4 to 6 ft of camper length at a time to not have it dry on you. It all depends how hot it is out.

The above takes off much the dirt and yuk. If it is have been on for years or there are tough spots then I do this.

Do the general wash above first. On the tough spots, "wet" the side with a hose in the area you need to spot clean. This needs to be a totally wet wall area before you apply the awesome. Spray the siding with LA's awesome right out of the bottle. Using a Mr Clean magic eraser, get the magic eraser wet first and then "lightly" scrub the small area. You must work fast enough the siding does not dry. Very important. After the small area is washed once, well rinse the entire wall all the way to the bottom including areas you did not even scrub yet. You will see brown crud in the foam on the wall, it will rinse off. Or harden back on if you let it dry on.

Start at the top and work your way down the wall works best so the crud does not re-dry back on what you just cleaned. Most times, only a 2' x 2' area can be done at a time so the siding does not dry up. Again, rinse to the bottom between sections.

Lack of rinsing before (to create a dilution) or after, fast enough before it dries, has been the most reported steps missed that creates a problem. That or excessive scrubbing pressure. This the car wash brush helps limit point pressure hard scrubbing.

Do not spray and wipe Awesome use on the decals on purpose. It can flow over them on the way down, but do not scrub. It can take the color out of the decals if scrubbed.

I have always used the medium soft car brush or the totally wet Mr Clean magic eraser to wash with. I have not used a rag to wash with. The rinsing action of the car brush may be different then using a rag.

I looked for your paint remover article and may have found one. They were cleaning action figures for repainting. They were using the Awesome full strength for a 12 hour soak. See here https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforu...st/365067.page

I'm not saying Awesome will not strip paint if use full strength on long enough, or is scrubbed real hard with it in full strength. The product does work well for many. There are no directions for RV cleaning, and on Krystal Kote siding, so we need to talk about how we all do it, along with the good and bad of it. It seems the issues come when the rinsing before and after step is what is missed, they let it dry on too ling or did excessive scrubbing.

Again, I'm not trying to talk you into using it, just trying to learn what was different in your use to create a negative reaction to help all of us.

John
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Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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