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05-30-2011, 06:46 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 48
SUN #2302
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Very hot water
We were sitting out enjoying the campfire.. and heard a slow drip of water. Water dripping from the "pressure valve" from the water heater.. hmm what is going on .. any idea ?!?!
We have a 2004 sunline 1950. Never had a problem... wonder if we didn't winterize correctly?> or did we forget to do something...
any suggestions would be appreciated ! also.. water seems very hot.. guess there are worse things to worry about .. right ? guess I would rather a hot shower than cold...
thank you.. in advance..
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05-30-2011, 07:05 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
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Try turning the thermostat on the water heater back a little. It's in the water heater access hatch. It has a dial on it that allows you to adjust it. it's probably set on "hot"...turn it in the other direction from the "hot" setting and give it a try.
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'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
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05-30-2011, 07:08 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 48
SUN #2302
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Thank you !! will search for that !???? .. also wondering why water dripping from the pressure valve... just too hot !?
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05-30-2011, 07:21 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 210
SUN #1340
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They'll do that sometimes and it may be that your temp is too high, thus causing undue pressure "steam" to build up in the tank. As long as the pressure valve doesn't blow you're okay.
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'88 T3200
Permanently situated in Charlotte County VA
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05-30-2011, 08:35 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Not all the RV water heaters have temp controls. They are deliberately set to about 140F which is quite a bit hotter than you'd run your heater for your home. The reason is that it is only a 6 (or 10) gallon heater so the hot water mixed with cold for a shower or whatever will last longer without using up all the hot water. If you have small children, they need to be carefully instructed about this.
The pressure/temp relief valves are set to open up around 165F or a bit higher. The problem with them is that they can get caked up with minerals so once they open up even a tiny bit, they just keep on dripping. There are two fixes. First, run out some of the hot water so that you're dealing with cooler water. Then lift the handle on the valve and work up and down. There is a rubber washer in there that fits in a conical seat so by working it in and out, you should rub away the mineral buildup. This does have to be done when the system is pressurized either by the on-board pump or city water.
The second fix is to replace the entire pressure relief valve if the mineral buildup has gone too far. These are standard valves just like the ones on home hot water heaters. Just get an exact replacement.
The cause behind all this is the varying water quality from camp ground to camp ground. Some folks can tolerate the difference to an extent, and others can not. There are fancy filters and even RV water softeners available for those that might need them. The heat of the water heater causes the minerals to precipitate out of the water faster.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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05-31-2011, 05:50 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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FWIW, When I dewinterized I tested my water heater on LP and when it came up to full temperature the water at the bathroom faucet was 146.3 on my instant read meat thermometer.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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05-31-2011, 07:12 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 545
SUN #67
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sarahcamping,
There's nothing wrong with your water heater. What has happened is it lost it's air gap. To fix it just shut off the water supply or the pump and open a hot water faucet, then go outside and open the pressure relief valve until the water stops dripping. This will let air back into the top of the tank. The air space is needed for expansion as the water is heated. Over time the air is lost and just needs to be refilled. This should be done a few times a season.
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Mike & Roz
2018 Grand Design 315RLTS
2023 Ford F-350 Lariat PSD/CC/LB/FX4
Sunlines= '06-2075, '06-264SR
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06-01-2011, 07:13 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,649
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 264SRinPA
sarahcamping,
There's nothing wrong with your water heater. What has happened is it lost it's air gap. To fix it just shut off the water supply or the pump and open a hot water faucet, then go outside and open the pressure relief valve until the water stops dripping. This will let air back into the top of the tank. The air space is needed for expansion as the water is heated. Over time the air is lost and just needs to be refilled. This should be done a few times a season.
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Yes I agree this can be the problem. I myself had it this past weekend. The air pocket dissolves and then the heater is filled solid with water. When it heats the heat expansion will trip the combo heat/pressure safety relief on pressure and yes that is 150 psi.
Like Mike stated, shut off pump or city water, dump all pressure by opening the hot water faucet, leave it open, then burp the safety and be care full. That little bit that comes out will create the air pocket for the water to expand in.
If it drips all the time even when not heating then like Steve said minerals may have built up and a burb will dislodge it. Just heads up do not lift that safety handle under full pressure. It will fly out that hole like a fire hose.
Hope this helps
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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06-02-2011, 06:28 PM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,039
SUN #897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Like Mike stated, shut off pump or city water, dump all pressure by opening the hot water faucet, leave it open, then burp the safety and be care full. That little bit that comes out will create the air pocket for the water to expand in.
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Just to be safe, make sure that both propane and electric for the WH are turned off first.
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06-03-2011, 05:41 AM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,649
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMD_Driver
Just to be safe, make sure that both propane and electric for the WH are turned off first.
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Yes for sure. Thanks for adding Gary.
The main point is the HW heater is totally off and all pressure bleed off the water system before lifting the pressure relief lever.
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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06-06-2011, 09:43 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 446
SUN #96
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That is why we do not leave the water heater on all the time. We just turn it on a little while before we need it, and off when we are done. The water will stay warm for awhile espeacially on a hot day.
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David & Mary Ann
2018 Ford F350 Dually 6.7L Powerstroke
2006 Sunline Solaris T-264-SR
2012 Palomino Bronco B1500LB
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