Testing the water system for the first time - Page 4

**JohnB** · 07-25-2018, 08:17 AM

Hi Tommie,

I throw in some more options on the gutter spouts and what "not" to do.

Someone at Sunline goofed when they put the spouts on my 2004 T2475. I am way behind on posting repair progress but I will add these so you can see.

For reasons not known other than a goof, Sunline put both rear wall gutter spouts tight up against the gutter rail choking off the water flow out of the gutter. I can tell these are factory original as the vinyl screw cover and the hole in the spout was still all original. One of the prior owners did add a Camco clip on extension.

This is what "not" to do. The RH side.

Here you can see better the spout pushed tight to the gutter rail end channel

And the left side, same issue.

I have seen and repaired enough Sunlines to see they did not always do this by putting them tight up against the gutter flow channel, they left a water channel exit gap. But on this camper they did??? Someone must of been in a hurry and QA missed it in the final check. Many if not most of the RV gutters are extremely undersized for the water they have to handle and then add a small twig or pin needle and the problem gets worse.

Leave space at the end of the gutter rail to let the water get out... In my case I went with the Camco all in one gutter spout extension. They can allow a little more water flow out of them and they cost less if you are starting with no gutter spout at all.

These pics the repair process is still ongoing so not all is in place yet.

The clip on's Camco makes are good too especially if your camper has spouts on them already. And as Sunline Fan stated they can help in some cases not break off the entire gutter spout. That said I have seen the original gutter spouts broke clear off too. Guess it all depends on how big a something one hits.... Any spout you can buy or make is better than not having any, that and they are installed right. Not having any spout, the water is blasting into the corner molding and that is bad news for a water infection sooner or later. Put some butyl on the back and front sides of the spout when installing as needed to help seal the screw and the spout to the camper and the gutter rail.

These are the ones I bought
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Extensi...70_&dpSrc=srch

Hope this helps

John

Thomascine · 07-25-2018, 08:44 AM

Thanks for all of the information gentlemen. I will order a pack. Unfortunately, there are no gutters on the curb side. Just the awning rail (similar to the pic below). The street side has the J-channel.

Thomascine · 10-25-2018, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

To make a permanent repair consider solvent welding it. This is a simple process but takes some time. 3 days at least for the curing/applying process. The cost of the materials is under $20, may even be under $15.

I just repeated "Frank" 's process and it worked great on ABS repair.

See here http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...air-10514.html

and here
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...air-18665.html

I attempted this repair. It isn't the best job but it isn't leaking anymore either. The streaks you see are from the cleaner that is used before applying the Oatey mixture. I used too much of the cleaner and it ran down the pipe. The streaks will not come off now. But again, no more leaks.

Now to the new problem. I am trying to go through the winterization process. The low point drains do not work. The knobs just turn but do nothing. I will try to take pics.

Thanks,
Tommie

**JohnB** · 10-25-2018, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomascine

Now to the new problem. I am trying to go through the winterization process. The low point drains do not work. The knobs just turn but do nothing. I will try to take pics.

Thanks,
Tommie

Your pipe repair is working!! That is great. I knew you could do it.

The low point drains, h'mm mud daubers may have plugged the pipes. Try sticking a piece of solid wire or thin long screwdriver up the bottom open end of the pipe under the camper. If sandy like dirt starts falling out, well they nested in the piping and plugged it up.

Amusing a plugged pipe is the issue, sometimes the system can get an air lock in it. Open the faucets which will let air in and then the water will run out the low point drains.

Also, Sunline use to have 3 way or 2 way valves on many of the low point drains. I do not know every Sunline had them but you said you turned the valve and nothing happened so yours must have the valves. But, a prior owner may have had a leaking valve and they may have added a pipe cap on the bottom of the tube sticking out of the floor under the camper to stop the leak rather then change the valve. See if there is a cap on the pipe under the camper. If so unscrew it. There are many brands that just use a cap on the bottom of the pipe as the low point and no 3 way valve.

If this does not get you going, we need the pics.

Hope this helps

John

Thomascine · 10-25-2018, 12:44 PM

Thanks JohnB. There are no caps on the pipes coming out the bottom. I will try opening the faucets and check to make sure the pipes are clear. The valves can be turned continuously without doing anything. I am wondering if the valves are bad.

enormiss · 10-25-2018, 03:16 PM

There are valves that pull up to open, maybe try lifting instead of turning?

johnnybgood · 10-25-2018, 06:10 PM

A phillips head screw driver into the drain tube fixed my fresh water tank that wouldn’t drain. Easiest thing to try first, imo.

Thomascine · 10-25-2018, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enormiss

There are valves that pull up to open, maybe try lifting instead of turning?

Didn't even think of that! Thanks!

**JohnB** · 10-25-2018, 07:37 PM

If the lifting up does not do the trip, post pics of the valves.

Thomascine · 10-29-2018, 09:42 PM

Okay, the low point drain valves are of the pull up variety. I was able to open both drains. A little water came out of both but not as much as I expected. Thanks to all for your help. I will attempt to complete winterizing this weekend.

**JohnB** · 11-01-2018, 07:53 PM

Depending on how the camper is tipped, it can sometimes affect how much water comes out the low point drains.

Mine does not allow a "lot" of water to drain out when I first open them. A blurb comes out and then stops. If you have an air compressor and charge the system with about 40 psi or so, then burp the low point drains water comes flying out. If you do not have a compressor, then while at camp before you head out, open the low point drains and even drain the water heater. Leave the faucet open and while driving home the up's and downs of the towing, a lot of the water will come out.

While they call them "low point drains" they are not really in the lowest possible place in the piping. More of in a low "area" so a lot of water can still lay in the pipes until the water can flow to the open low point drain.

Hope this helps

John