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Old 07-05-2018, 08:46 PM   #41
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Quote:
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Now to the toilet. It is nasty down in the hole going to the tank. Is it safe to use a toilet brush to clean around in there? I am not sticking my hand down there in someone else's crap. Pun intended. LOL

Thanks,
Tommie
What Jim said will help and yes you can use a normal toilet brush, just try to not let go of it.

To add to Jim's note, before you start using the toilet for no. 2, you need to add a little starter water in the bottom of the tank. When you get to camp, add only enough water to the tank to add about 1/4" maybe a little more in the bottom of the tank. (flashlight look down the hole) This creates a "wet" tank bottom. A good thing. A dry tank bottom everything sticks to it and will not float. By having that little water cushion on the bottom solids will not stick.

The starter water, figure out that gallon or gallons it takes, then next time just dump in 1 or 1.5 gal. etc. and move on. In my T310SR which has big flat tanks (enclosed tanks) it takes 3 gallons of water to create the 1/4". This is way too much for you little camper, you might only need 1 to 2 gallons. Each tank is a little different. It is one of my choirs to do at the start of camp.
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:03 PM   #42
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To add to Jim's note, before you start using the toilet for no. 2, you need to add a little starter water in the bottom of the tank. When you get to camp, add only enough water to the tank to add about 1/4" maybe a little more in the bottom of the tank. (flashlight look down the hole) This creates a "wet" tank bottom. A good thing. A dry tank bottom everything sticks to it and will not float. By having that little water cushion on the bottom solids will not stick.
I put some water in the tank to test to see if the pipe was still leaking. I had to drain it first to do the temporary patch. LOL - There will be no #2 in there. I am in the process of making a sign to put on the door that says "No Poo in the Loo". Trying to find a good font.
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:27 PM   #43
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H'mm well if no poo in the loo..... may still need a little starter water so the paper does not stick. Maybe only 1/8" or less but something other than a dry tank bottom.
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Old 07-06-2018, 07:08 PM   #44
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Use a big ass font. Lol.
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Old 07-09-2018, 04:30 PM   #45
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Good evening,

Well for a minute there I thought about canceling the trip to Lake Anna. It all started with the fresh water spigot that I had to replace. Then the door on the electrical cord hatch broke. I had to replace that. Then I went in to plug into the exterior electrical outlet and the cover fell apart to the ground. Had to replace that. Then the pipe under the trailer is leaking. Had to put a temporary patch on that. The morning of the day we are to leave I went out to double check the pipe was not leaking. The metal strap that supports the pipe looked a bit rusty so I pressed on it lightly, and it broke. Oh my! Had to run to Lowes to buy some to install and it was almost time to leave. At this point I was almost ready to throw in the towel. Almost. Was late getting there but we made it. Worth it!!!

The pipe is leaking again so the patch did not hold. Will need to address it as we have another trip scheduled.

Tommie
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Old 07-09-2018, 04:53 PM   #46
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Try rewrapping the pipe using only the stretch and seal without the pre-wrap plastic.
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:33 PM   #47
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That stuff that looks like plastic is clear stretch and seal tape. They carry it here at Home Depot but they only had clear, blue and white. I then went over that with black gorilla duck tape. I had a hard time getting it on because of the location. I am going to try again. I don't have anyone to do the weld repair right now. I know someone but trying to get him to do it before our next trip is a long shot.

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Old 07-12-2018, 08:00 PM   #48
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. At this point I was almost ready to throw in the towel. Almost. Was late getting there but we made it. Worth it!!!


Tommie
Yeh!!!!! You made it! Great.

Any pics of the Sunny in action at the campground?

To the pipe leaking, does this clear plastic looking tape have any bond to it to the pipe?

If that is not working and you are after a temporary patch, the Gorilla tape direct on a dry clean pipe should work for a few months. I have used it in outside wet locations before with temporary acceptable results but it has to go on a dry object to create the bond to the material. Once bonded it can tolerate some wet against it. It will not bond from the start on a wet surface.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-12-2018, 08:32 PM   #49
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Yeh!!!!! You made it! Great.

Any pics of the Sunny in action at the campground?

To the pipe leaking, does this clear plastic looking tape have any bond to it to the pipe?
Thanks JohnB! Yes, we made it out. Pictures posted under a separate thread (Lake Anna...)

The clear tape is stretch and seal tape. The problem I ran into was trying to tuck it over the pipe. Not much room to work with and the tape was touching and sticking to itself before I could pull it tight. Maybe I will try putting the gorilla tape first then wrap it with the stretch and seal, reverse approach.

Any experience with JB Waterweld?

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 07-12-2018, 08:56 PM   #50
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T

Any experience with JB Waterweld?

Thanks,
Tommie
JB weld, no I never used that so I can't help much if it will work or not. Have to make sure it is rated for ABS plastic. Certain plastics do not like anything to stick to them unless it is specially made for that type of plastic.

The ABS solvent weld approach I linked earlier will bond for sure, it just takes time.


Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-22-2018, 10:15 PM   #51
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I decided to go ahead and take care of the water heater mod (or I attempted to). Taking the plug in and out is a pain. I will test it tomorrow weather permitting. The weather has not been cooperating on my days off. Grrrr! Next trip quickly approaching.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:26 AM   #52
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Here is a pic of my HW heater drain mod. I did not attach anything to the pressure relief valve as of yet. Have to think about that.
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:13 PM   #53
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Here is a pic of my HW heater drain mod. I did not attach anything to the pressure relief valve as of yet. Have to think about that.
LOL...I copied what I saw. It does make sense though to have as much water drain away from the trailer as possible. I have a window that I need to address because the gutter drains right down on that window.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:21 PM   #54
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Hi Tommie,

Two heads up on this routing. Make sure none of the hoses touches the burner tube. That tube can get hot and may cause an issue with the hose.



Your safety relief tube should go down, so gravity can drain out any weeping water. It seems you have down and then going up. There are times when the air cushion in the top of the water heater will dissolve and then thermal expansion of the water heating will build pressure and eventually lift and weep out the relief valve. That water wants to flow out soon and not stay trapped in the hose. By being trapped in the hose it is also trapped in the downstream side of the relief valve and can accelerate corrosion in the valve.

Since your heater is an all gas heater, that relief hose can be real short to point almost straight down below the gas burner tube and stop. Or may not be needed as much on and all gas heater. On water heaters with electric controls that is where all the weeping water drips down right on the electronics right below it and shorts/corrodes them out.

This might of been what you saw on my heater on some post here on the forum. It has the electronic controls. See the routing. The drain valve hose can be shorter than I have it show and still work OK. It will then tuck under the gas burner tube.





On this weeping valve topic, if you see water weeping from the relief valve hose then odds are high the air cushion is dissolved. The water pump can also go bang bang bang real hard too, harder then normal when the air cushion is dissolved. A weeping valve can also mean there is dirt stuck in the valve seat or the valve is going bad. I thought you changed the valve a short while ago so it would be the loss of air cushion more likely. A real old valve that has been weeping a long time has more valve problems from mineral buildup.

To get the air cushion back again.

1. Shut off the water pump if you are on the fresh tank supply or shut off the city water supply.
2. Open both the hot and cold water faucet at the sink to bleed all pressure out of the system.
3. Go out to the heater and open the tank drain hose valve to let some water out.
4. After some water has flowed out, lift the relief valve handle to let air rush in the top of the heater.
5. After about 2 to 3 quarts of water drains out on the ground, shut off the drain hose valve and close the relief valve.
6. Turn on the water pump or city water as your source of water and it will refill the system with the air cushion trapped up in the top of the heater. This will act like a mini accumulator and the thermal expansion will occur in the air pocket.

Be very careful with opening and closing the heater drain hose valve so you do not get burned. If you need to, let the heater cool down before bleeding the system by running cold water through it before shutting off the water and starting to drain it.

This air pocket/cushion in the top of the water heater normally forms every time the system is empty and is then filled with fresh water so it happens all by itself as long as the system was empty to start with.

I find the air cushion will stay for several days up to a week or more if it is created at the campground when filling an empty water system. If you had to haul fresh water from home OR you are moving campgrounds with a full water system, then the bouncing of water in the water heater from towing can dissolve the air cushion a lot faster. If I tow a long ways with water in the heater moving campgrounds, I just drain off some and rebuild the cushion when setting up at the new camp and be done with it. I have a variable speed pump and can tell real quick when the air cushion is going or gone. The pump bangs like crazy.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-23-2018, 10:16 PM   #55
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Your safety relief tube should go down, so gravity can drain out any weeping water. It seems you have down and then going up. There are times when the air cushion in the top of the water heater will dissolve and then thermal expansion of the water heating will build pressure and eventually lift and weep out the relief valve. That water wants to flow out soon and not stay trapped in the hose. By being trapped in the hose it is also trapped in the downstream side of the relief valve and can accelerate corrosion in the valve.
Haha...I think I see what I did. I need to switch two of the nylon fittings. And I didn't even think about the burner getting hot. I just threw it together. I would've found out quick though. Once the two fittings are switched I can better route that hose. Thanks for the heads up. One reason why I post any mods done.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:24 PM   #56
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Regarding your gutter/window issue: are you using gutter extensions? They direct the rainwater farther away from the camper by a few inches.
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:16 AM   #57
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Regarding your gutter/window issue: are you using gutter extensions? They direct the rainwater farther away from the camper by a few inches.
No gutter extensions. I need to add some or something. Do they make gutter extensions for the J-channel? I have seen many pictures but none look like mine, that I have seen so far. Either that or the pictures were not clear enough to tell.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:14 PM   #58
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No gutter extensions. I need to add some or something. Do they make gutter extensions for the J-channel? I have seen many pictures but none look like mine, that I have seen so far. Either that or the pictures were not clear enough to tell.

Thanks,
Tommie
Only Sunlines built toward the end (2000s) have gutter spouts added at the factory. You need to add gutter spouts before you can add extensions- the extensions clip to the spouts, or you can get them all in one. Personally, I like the two piece ones because if the extension catches on something and falls off, it's easy to replace. The spouts themselves should be screwed to the trailer to secure them, and if it's one long spout, you have to mess with putty tape and Dicor to change them.

Spouts:
JR Polar White RV Gutter Spouts - RV Gutter Systems - Exterior - Hardware

Extensions:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-RV-...&wl13=&veh=sem
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Old 07-24-2018, 01:52 PM   #59
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Thanks Sunline Fan!
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:04 PM   #60
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I put these JR Products spouts on both my campers and have been happy with them.



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