Testing the water system for the first time - Page 2

**JohnB** · 07-02-2018, 09:02 PM

Hi Tommie,

On the city water inlet, there is a check valve inside to stop water from coming out when you use the onboard fresh tank and water pump. That check valve sometimes gets dirt in it or it has an O ring that does not seal right.

With yours being older, I agree with your choice of getting a new city water inlet. As FYI, if you are out camping and it starts leaking you can screw in a garden hose plug or screw in a garden hose shut off valve as a temporary setup to make it seal off until you get the check valve one to work. The new ones, many are setup like this. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...air-11736.html

And whatever one does, do "not" press in the plunger with pressure on the system.... The post explains why. I learned the hard way and even had to relearn it a 2nd time

On the leaking dump valve, as johnnybgood stated, silicone lube (I use the spray can) helps the rubber seat better sometimes and makes the valve pull easier. Yes it wears off over time, I do mine once a year and it about holds all year. If not the seals drag real hard and you feel it trying to push the valve in and out. I use a spray straw on the can and blast it up the dump pipe connection against the closed valve and then slide the valves back and forth to spread it around. Naturally doe this on "empty tanks... Your valve setup looks like it will work on the black valve easy, the gray has and elbow but the straw may reach in enough the blast still gets up there. This way you do not have to take the valve apart.

If the silicone trick does not work, then on the black tank valve paper can get jammed in the slider valve and then it will not seal. On the gray tank, there is no paper but the seals may still leak.

You can take the valve apart and look at the blade valve part and the seals. If something is stuck in the seals you just clean it out. If the seals are torn, you can buy replacements.

There are 4 bolts (both gray and black) that hold the slider valve together. You unbolt then and the sliding blade and seals will be exposed and can come out. They will pull out of the piping when you take the bolts out. May have to spread the fitting a little to get it to break free.

Valterra makes the valves or most of them. Don't know if yours being older has some other brand. They make a "Bladex" version and a regular version. 3" is the black and 1 1/2" is the gray slider valve size in most cases. Check to make sure yours is still like that. The seals are different between the Bladex and the regular. If yours has bladex molded in letters on the side of the slider valve, then it is a Bladex valve. The regular does not state that.

You can also buy the entire slider valve and seals in a kit if there is a problem with the valve blade, it may have a large scratch on the valve blade and not the seal.

The 1/4" bolts may break when you take it apart. Common issue they rust out. The local hardware store has them. They do not have to be full threaded as some are. Just get the right diameter and length. Most are 1/4" bolts.

Here is a Bladex seal kit https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ll-description

Here is the whole valve on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...70_&dpSrc=srch

On the hot water heater, the pilot going out generally that "might" be the thermocouple. But I also thought that was part of the flame sense system for the main burner if your is an all gas heater. And if that is correct, then the thermocouple would be working which may mean the pilot flame sizwe may have to be adjusted if it has an adjustment. What is the model number of your heater? Need more info on which one you have to dig in to this. I thought you had a new one installed by the prior owner over the orignal.

Hope this helps

John

Thomascine · 07-02-2018, 09:26 PM

Hi JohnB,

Thanks for the response and the info. I went online over the weekend and ran across a video with Mark Polk. He recommended a quick fix. I will try your fix at a later date. The quick fix should help for now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The new city water inlet arrived today but I probably won't put it on until we get back.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried lighting the pilot light on the water heater again (Atwood G6A-7). The pilot light stayed lit this time. I will see how it does this weekend.

I tested the frig as well. It does get cool. I did not turn it up high. I have been following another thread where Mainah was helping someone with theirs, trying to learn how it works. We also have an electric cooler that we will be taking along just in case.

For the most part, I think we are ready to go.

Thank you and everyone else that has helped me along the way! I can't believe we are finally able to go.

Tommie

**JohnB** · 07-03-2018, 06:24 AM

The quick attach dump valve trick... yes that will stop tank either from leaking.

Good news on the water heater.

And the best news,

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomascine

For the most part, I think we are ready to go.

Thank you and everyone else that has helped me along the way! I can't believe we are finally able to go.

Have great time camping!

johnnybgood · 07-03-2018, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

And the best news,

Have great time camping!

+1

Have fun!

Thomascine · 07-04-2018, 04:59 PM

Finished up testing today. Hooked up to city water. No issues. Remembered that I had not tested the toilet. Toilet seems to work fine. Did one more inspection underneath the trailer and the black water pipe underneath the trailer has a cracked and is leaking. Can this be repaired?

Thanks,
Tommie

j52wf · 07-04-2018, 05:07 PM

Temporary fix. Get some sealing tape (as seen on tv. lol). It stretches and seals. Wrap it real good and tight. You don't want this pipe to leak while camping. Since this is not a pressurized pipe, it should hold even with a full tank. I used it on a sink drain and it is still leak free.

Thomascine · 07-04-2018, 05:11 PM

I haven't seen it on TV...LOL...unless it is flexseal? Will Eternabond work?

**JohnB** · 07-04-2018, 05:47 PM

Hi Tommie,

On your ABS pipe crack, the Eternabond "might" work for a while but it might not either long term.

If I was in a campground and found a crack like that I had to make it home, I would use "Gorilla Tape". Do not accept any other brand. Clean well with something, then rubbing alcohol or other high flash cleaner, then put the tape on. It will buy you 6 months to a year but will not be a long term fix. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-...2677/302422123

To make a permanent repair consider solvent welding it. This is a simple process but takes some time. 3 days at least for the curing/applying process. The cost of the materials is under $20, may even be under $15.

I just repeated "Frank" 's process and it worked great on ABS repair.

See here http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...air-10514.html

and here
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...air-18665.html

If you have a dremel tool with a ball end burr type cutter bit you can groove out the crack, then solvent weld it closed with the ABS mixture Frank told us about. The bit like in this kit. You really only need one bit, but this shows what to look for https://www.amazon.com/Xilko-Dremel-...urr+bits&psc=1

The 5th one from the left would be a good choice. If you do not have a Dremel tool you can use this in a normal drill motor and hold the drill to groove the crack. Do not go 100% through, stop about 70 to 80% ish deep into the wall of the pipe.

Hope this helps

John

Thomascine · 07-04-2018, 06:03 PM

I think I found what j52wf was talking about. Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA2258...0-db3dc51fc8a8

Thanks,
Tommie

j52wf · 07-04-2018, 06:38 PM

It wasn't flex-seal, but similar. This was bought in a regular hardware store. Home Depot also has some. It is called sealing tape. I can't remember the brand. You stretch it while wrapping and it seals tightly.

j52wf · 07-04-2018, 06:42 PM

It was called Stretch and Seal.

https://www.findtape.com/Nashua-386-...ing-Tape/p160/

Thomascine · 07-04-2018, 06:43 PM

I found it a little while ago. I will go out tomorrow and pick some up.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...3A%7B583617%7D

I also have some black gorilla tape on hand too so if that doesn't work. I can try the gorilla tape.

Thanks again.

j52wf · 07-04-2018, 06:49 PM

That was it. If it's only 1", you may need a few rolls depending on how long the crack is. Needs a good overlap. Looks like damage from water freezing in the pipe. Even cracked the joint fitting.

**JohnB** · 07-04-2018, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomascine

I found it a little while ago. I will go out tomorrow and pick some up.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...3A%7B583617%7D

I also have some black gorilla tape on hand too so if that doesn't work. I can try the gorilla tape.

Thanks again.

Hi Tommie,

I have seen and used a similar product like that at work. I do not recall the brand. We called it "cold tape" as there is no real adhesive to it, the stretching and tightly wrapping makes it bond to itself. We used it to wrap test lead wires that ran inside a pressure vessel under 260 F steam and hot water under 36 psi of pressure against it to not leak outside the machine. It didn't leak... I was shocked. We did it on 4 different machines and it repeated.

I would say to give yourself the best chance of it working, clean the outside pipe with your denatured alcohol to get any grim off of it and let it air dry real good. Then start your wrapping and pull tight each wrap. The bump at the fitting transition you may have to over wrap it.

This application is an unproven one but is has hope and for sure is easy. Let us know how it comes out.

If this does not work long term, you can undo it and always do the solvent weld approach.

Good luck

John

**Sunline Fan** · 07-05-2018, 08:12 AM

White gorilla tape is now something I carry with me any time going camping. It's a great thing to have around for many uses. If the pipe is wet, I don't think it'll seal well, but if it's dripped out and dry, it should hold it temporarily. I tried wrapping my kinda wet leaking water line one time and it did ok until i got home. I kept the water off and faucet open so it wasn't pressurized when I wasn't using it.

Thomascine · 07-05-2018, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunline Fan

White gorilla tape is now something I carry with me any time going camping. It's a great thing to have around for many uses. If the pipe is wet, I don't think it'll seal well, but if it's dripped out and dry, it should hold it temporarily. I tried wrapping my kinda wet leaking water line one time and it did ok until i got home. I kept the water off and faucet open so it wasn't pressurized when I wasn't using it.

I have a roll of gorilla tape in the camper along with a few other items for quick fix-its (Eternabond, butyl tape, extra screws, etc.). Gorilla tape is my go to for quick repairs...LOL. I'm glad I'm not the only one.

Thanks for all of the help!

Tommie

**Sunline Fan** · 07-05-2018, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomascine

I have a roll of gorilla tape in the camper along with a few other items for quick fix-its (Eternabond, butyl tape, extra screws, etc.). Gorilla tape is my go to for quick repairs...LOL. I'm glad I'm not the only one.

Thanks for all of the help!

Tommie

It's far from a permanent fix, but it has really helped out my awning. It's torn at the trailer mounting rail at both ends, and the tape helps hold it solid. It only lasts a week or two, but that'll get me through a trip. Certainly cheaper than awning tape, which I've heard doesn't last much longer.

Need to work on that permanent fix sooner than later.

Thomascine · 07-05-2018, 06:52 PM

Not the best job and probably an overkill but it's not leaking anymore.

Now to the toilet. It is nasty down in the hole going to the tank. Is it safe to use a toilet brush to clean around in there? I am not sticking my hand down there in someone else's crap. Pun intended. LOL

Thanks,
Tommie

j52wf · 07-05-2018, 07:45 PM

Try putting about 5-8 gallons of warm water in the black tank through the toilet before you head out. This might loosen things up while you travel so you can dump when you get there. Keep the black tank valve closed while camping, only dumping as necessary. Leaving it open creates a solid waste pyramid that can harden and become a PIA to clean. After dumping, close the valve a flush the external dump hose with some water from the gray tank. Get yourself a tank wand for cleaning out the black tank. When you use it, make sure the water supply for the camper is off, so you can open the toilet flush valve to insert the wand. There are some good you tube tutorials on tank cleaning. But to answer your question, yes you can put a brush down there. Good luck.

**JohnB** · 07-05-2018, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunline Fan

If the pipe is wet, I don't think it'll seal well, but if it's dripped out and dry, it should hold it temporarily. I tried wrapping my kinda wet leaking water line one time and it did ok until i got home. I kept the water off and faucet open so it wasn't pressurized when I wasn't using it.

For sure, the Gorilla tape will not stick to wet anything. I tried that too. But it will stick to dry items. And once the adhesive is cured, it will resist water well.

I also use it as a fast roof patch on project campers leaks. Something to hold you over for a few weeks. It is hard to get it to stick to 10 years of ground in roof dirt but cleaning the dirt off, it can work. Mineral spirits and then a high flash cleaner will lift up the stuck on adhesive when you take it up. Again this is only a temporary band aide.

A leaking water line, well somehow you have to dry it off totally first, then try it.

Yes, I too now have a roll of the white as I see other colors now other then black.

The "duct" tape being sold now is getting worse and worser. It is so thin it barely does anything. A number of years ago it was not as bad as it is today. Seems Gorilla capitalized on that fact making a good tape. Since this kind of take of now is the next MacGyver do all, fix all trick.