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Old 05-17-2011, 11:30 AM   #21
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Back to your first post, I have the same coupler. It looks like an Atwood Yoke style coupler. As long as the collar is all the way down and the latch is seated in the slots, you are locked. Instructions can be found at : http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...%201.22.08.pdf
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:47 AM   #22
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Thanks Opie! For all the old trailers I've had over the years, I've never seen a coupler like that. Reading Atwood's publication is just what I needed for piece of mind. Very cool system. I want one for my boat trailer!

Frank
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:50 AM   #23
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Just one more thing....it is spring loaded obviously. My spring broke last year, you'll know if it happens, it will get very loose. Replacement spring at True Value is a lot less than a new jack.
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Old 05-17-2011, 12:00 PM   #24
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Now that I have that Atwood publication (I printed it off) I will examine that baby much more closely Opie. Actually the entire frame needs some help. Hopefully this summer I will scrape, wire brush and sand what I can get at, prime it and paint it. First things first, i.e, hubs. There's plenty to do!

Thanks,

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Old 05-17-2011, 01:45 PM   #25
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About your hitch...... I have one like it on my utility trailer. Here are some pics I took of it. First is with the lock in place.


Second shows the lock removed and the pin still inserted.


Third shows the lock pin removed and the latch pulled back. You can see a tab inside the hitch with a hole for the lock pin to hold the pin and latch in place. Don't know if yours has the same but everyone I've seen like this has had the holes for the lock pin.


Hope this helps some.

jim
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:24 AM   #26
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My coupler does NOT have a hole for any kind of clip. lock, etc. You can see it in a pic up above here in this thread pretty plainly.

Also, I figured out my seal/hub problem. Check it out on the Sunspot forum here: http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f9...pot-12454.html

Next? Wiring!

Frank
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:02 AM   #27
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Frank, I did see yours had no holes. I also saw that the link posted by Opie shows lockable and non-lockable hitches and yours is certainly a non-lockable but it would not take much to make it lockable. Weld a tad under the latch, as seen on mine, and drill holes through latch and tab for locking. It was just a thought and a simple fix for peace of mind.

Even though the unlockable hitch surely is safe and doesn't open by itself I would check it everytime I stopped where someone could walk by and lift it. I stopped at a campground for overnight. Next morning I pulled in the closest service station for gas. While at the back of the motorhome I saw the pin for the tow dolly had been removed. Glad it made it the block I had traveled so now I check the hitch everytime before pulling out, even with lockable connections.

Happy camping!

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Old 05-19-2011, 10:38 AM   #28
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Those are good tips Jim. I have a lock for my receiver, and one for the hitch on our classic speed boat. I'm a believer in locks. Don't much need them out in the country where we live, but I feel a lot more confident with them when at boat launches.

Just making plans for my soon-to-be new fold out seats and dinette table. Want a place to sit out of the rain and have a table for whatever.

Thanks, and happy camping back to ya!

Frank
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:10 PM   #29
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Frank, Here is what I used until I could find a better way......



It would be nice if we all could stay in the country way of life.

jim
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:21 PM   #30
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ONe last question and I'll go back to werk. In your picture of the hitch, in your album, there is a hole behind the slide. I wonder if a rod of some sort would keep that from sliding backwards?

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/me...icture1262.jpg


Might be the lock position for you to use.

jim
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:39 PM   #31
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Boy, you folks are great. It's been raining here all week, and it is difficult to work on it much in my pole barn. I hope to get the hubs rebuilt, wheels/tires back on and haul it around to my garage this weekend and take a closer look at that coupler. And the wiring. And the axle. Getting some plans together. Ordered correct rv stop/turn/tail lights today for it, along with the adapters to get them at the right angle. worked up some plans for seats & dinette table that fold out to a bed too. Got plenty to do.

Thanks guys!

Frank
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:39 PM   #32
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Frank, Don't forget to eat, LOL!

Have fun.

jim
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:46 PM   #33
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Wife came home with dinner Jim. Ate, went out, started mowing, then wife come out to take over. Cool, back to the hubs. They were pretty clean after I scraped then brushed thinner on and cleaned with shop rags this a.m. before work. Cleaned them again with lacquer thinner real well, sanded with 80 grit, cleaned with thinner again, and just sprayed with NAPA's Rust treatment (765-1671) Great stuff, but needs 24 hours to dry before over-coating. No biggie, spray paint them Saturday a.m. either right before or right after the last coat of paint on the deck of the speed boat. Tomorrow a.m. before and after work is final sand of the deck of the boat, get ready for Saturday morning paint. Once that's done, gotta rig the boat, get the big old merc back on her, get ready for another high priced gas season. Nothing like those big old mercs, they take hi test!

Enjoy yer evening! It's Guinness time for Frank.
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