Quote:
Originally Posted by Robandash
.so i take the access panel off and start to loosen the feed lines.they are pex and have a tri wing connection to a 90 elbow with male threads to connect the feed to and female threads to connect to the faucet.
unfortunatly i cracked the tri wing connection on the hot water feed.is this a standard connection i can get a lowes or home depot?
also the hot water take was leaking out the nylon plug and i realized it was probably in by pass and was looking for and exit and went out the weak point.i unscrew the plug and got a nice cold shower.im at work now so i cant look at the positioning of the bypass valves under the bed but should they be in line with the water lines and not sticking put perpendicular to the lines?
and do i need to order a new nylon plug or is that also a standard stocked item at big box stores.
lastly i have about 5 different keys for my various panels.can i just get standard 8035 locks and change them all out or is the size of the lock on sunlines different size than all others.i had a popup and everything was 1 8035 key to open all locks.obviously ill keep my door locks what they are. Thanks for reading
Rob
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Hi Rob,
The 1/2" pex fittings are standard (I'm assuming you have a 1999 camper. Yes/No?) You can get them at Lowes/Home Depot.
Did the swivel nut totally crack or just one ear on it? If only one ear cracked and the outer band of the nut is still intact, that can still work to hold pressure. But, it would be good to replace in case the nut has a slight crack flaw starting in it to later let go while camping.
If you need to replace the fitting which included the nut, the standard pex fittings use copper crimp rings to hold the fitting to the hose. The fitting is cheap and simple, the crimp ring and putting a new on one needs a pex crimp tool to do this.
This is the 90 deg fitting at Lowes. Home Depot has them too
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182985
The issue will now be the crimp fitting. If your hose is long enough you can cut off the old fitting from the hose just before the fitting. This will shorten the hose by about 1/2" to 3/4". Then you need to install a copper crimp ring or a pinch crimp band. Both take a special tool, the crimp band may be cheaper.
The crimp band
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182819
This might be an option. It is a shark bite fitting that does not need a tool to crimp with but I would be cautious about using it inside a wall. Leaking is the concern but that can happen on a gasket swivel fitting too. And the fact that it does not swivel. You would have to screw it on the faucet then push on the hose.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182565
They might make a swivel connector with that push on fitting. You would have to check.
This is also an option that needs no tools but you may have to order it. A Flair It swivel fitting. These are on your water heater and other places on the camper.
https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16816-P...e%2C330&sr=1-2
Suggest you replace the rubber cone washer to being new on both hot and cold when putting the new faucet on. One will come with the new fitting and odds are high you have to buy the whole fitting locally and rob the rubber washer out of it for the other usable fitting. If you are ordering on Amazon, then here is the part of the cone washer. It is an Add on item
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On the water heater, this is the Atwood Part number 91857
https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91857-...omotive&sr=1-1
They sell them at various RV parts places and a local RV dealer may have it too. The Atwood plugs are made for potable water and will hold up to the higher temps of the heater. Do not use a metal plug as if the metal plug cross threads, it can strip out the tank. The nylon plug will cross thread and the tank be OK.
The keys, the standard cargo hatch, power cord hatch, fresh water hatch key is CH751 from Sunline and many other camper manufacturers. You can buy them with the keyed barrel cam lock to fit the CH751 or you can change them all to a different key code. I agree, they all should be the same whatever key code you have.
Just heads on on the lock set, they are not all the same length to the little lever that catches inside the compartment. Make sure you get the right length for the cargo doors and then the fresh water/power cord door. And then they have the flat straight latch lever and an offset latch lever. Measure the ones you have and match them up.
Hope this helps
John
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