Slide Room Wouldn’t Extend – sheared pins - Page 3

gb-kim · 08-01-2018, 08:34 AM

Then looked at why the actuator tube was lower thru its hole than the opposite side slide is.

gb-kim · 08-01-2018, 08:38 AM

The opposite side slide's actuator tube goes thru the frame normally.
The slide with the problem barely clears the cross shaft that drives the slave rack/tube and from chipped paint on the shaft looks like the stop can had hit the shaft.

gb-kim · 08-01-2018, 08:53 AM

The deformed stop can now goes partly into the frame hole since reinstalling the straightened trunnion brackets. The slide seals just compressed on retract, so adjustment of the stop can looks to be done.
Looking at the welded bracket for the actuator's threaded rod, it is not welded on at 90° to the rack/tube. It's bottom edge is a bit lower than the rack/tube's edges and the bracket drops down towards its outer end by 1/8". It looks like the threaded rod is below the centerline of the rack/tube as compared to the opposite side slide that is normal.

gb-kim · 08-01-2018, 09:01 AM

The slide on the RH side of the rig slide on the floor and as it retracts the top of the slide touches first & the actuator continues to move and pull the bottom of the slide in tight.
The opposite sidle slide has floor rollers, but also top touches 1st and then bottom is pulled in till seals compress.
So the slide seems to work normally.
I'm going to do some more looking at the threaded rod, perhaps remove it from its bracket to see if it were mounted a bit higher, would a stop can that doesn't have its bottom cut off clear the cross shaft.
If that were so I'd have to look into having the threaded rod's bracket removed and welded back on.

Thanks,

Gene

**Sunline Fan** · 08-01-2018, 01:24 PM

Hmm. Amazing how many issues aren't at all brand specific.

**JohnB** · 08-01-2018, 09:13 PM

Hi Gene,

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club!

Wow... that file you found and linked from FR is amazing... Thank you for posting. I will add that to my collection of "stuff"

The Sunlines and your Grand Design is starting with the same Lippert rack and pinion system just implemented somewhat different.

It sounds like you have a good handle on the situation. Thanks for sharing your journey and explanations of the problems. They help us too.

If we can help, just ask.

Thanks

John

gb-kim · 11-08-2018, 08:55 AM

Bit of followup on my DIY slide fix of stop can that had hit the cross arm and RV dealer had worked on.
Since I don't have an easy way to weld on the RV, I just moved the bracket's hole upward off center & added steel plates front and back to reinforce the bracket.
This got me the new stop can clear of the cross arm.
Added a 12 gauge stainless steel trim plate around the actuator trim plate hole the RV dealer had enlarged with cutoff wheel when they made in their repair and reused their screw holes tapped for 1/4-20.
Noted that the actuator tube moves some vertically from full close to full open so the trim plate hole isn't a round circle.
Opened up the actuator gear assembly. Counted the gear teeth so I could figure the ratio. Looks to be 18:1 per the 2nd gear train's driver gear 25 teeth.
Before & After and gear assembly photos.

Want to add a bit of grease to the teeth. Guessing to use lithium based grease. Either Lubriplate 1200-2 or NGLI 2.

Gene

**JohnB** · 11-08-2018, 07:17 PM

Hi Gene,

I see now what you did. Good job! The primer brownish paint on the master rack arm plate you raised the thread rod hole, thus lifting the ACME screw actuator, correct?

They must of goofed some at the factory when they setup the frame. My actuator is higher than yours. In my case the square shaft is inside the frame and not outside where the stop can is but you can see the stop can contact ring on the frame plate in this pic. You can tell by the contact ring to the bottom of the master rack arm, mine is higher than yours was to start with.

Here is a side shot I had on line

Mine too is 18:1 gear ratio. See here

Thanks for posting.

John

gb-kim · 11-09-2018, 07:40 AM

Hi John,

Yes that's primer on the bracket plates.

I had to move the bracket rod hole up 3/8" so the stop can would clear the cross arm. That plus straghtening the trunnion brackets got me the needed clearance.
The rod hole in the bracket is a bit below center & the bracket is welded on at downward angle as compared to opposite side slide bracket.
So the little tolerances added up to cause the problem.

The opposite side slide is setup so the stop can isn't over the cross arm and the bracket lined up the actuator, where it wasn't as critical, doh.

Gene

**JohnB** · 11-09-2018, 05:51 PM

Thanks for sharing the pics. May need to use that some day.