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Old 08-19-2014, 03:24 PM   #21
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I probably won't get much time in on it for the next couple of days so will in the meantime review your post on the slide-out floor. I don't have a good surface to work on, just lawn, and my barn is about 4" too short to get the camper in, unless I remove the ac.
I think if I remove the rim joist which runs down the side of the camper, then I can sister on to the joists running across it, slide the floor section in, then replace the rim joist with new wood. That leaves the back end which I still don't know if it is salvageable. Maybe epoxy injection there would work. The end has doubled up joists but then they put the rear wall behind the deck rather than on top of it so it is all flush on the bottom. Cannot imagine why it is framed that way.
Thank you all for the advise and help.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:27 PM   #22
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back camper to barn door . remove good rims and tires replace with a set of old rims with out tires. that should give you the 4" you need to roll through barn door
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:14 PM   #23
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Jim, I would have to dig a pit in the barn to get under the camper if it was that low to the ground
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:11 PM   #24
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once in the barn jack it back up or isn't the barn that high?
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:35 PM   #25
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John,

I sent you a PM with a possible method to support the camper walls and pull out the floor if that is what you decide to do.

I myself would get rid of the rotted OSB. Once the glue is gone, it turns to chips and falls apart. Like this on my slide floor





While the CEPS is good stuff I think using it to restore OSB board is pushing it. It may help on a questionable wall or floor stud but then I myself would cut that out too.

What I sent you was to take the entire back out of the rotted floor out at once. Maybe do it in 2 pieces. Do one wall side and replace 1/2 the floor, then do the other side. Where the floor splice come together put a 2 x 4 cut to fit as a joint splice and tie into the good floor joists.

Take some time to think on this, your this far into it and doing really good. Not getting ride of all the rot leaves you with an unanswered question, will it fester back??

Good luck

John
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim44646 View Post
once in the barn jack it back up or isn't the barn that high?

On my 2004 T2499, the same basic camper setup as John has, I needed a 10 foot open overhead door to back it in my shed. I had 2 inches to spare.

The 2005 models grew in height by about 2 to 3 inches and would not fit in through a 10 foot door. When we bought it new, I had a choice, buy the new older model and get in a 10 foot door or buy the 05 and keep it outside? Glad I went for the 2004...

That said, taking the AC unit off is not that bad if that will solve the issue and a fridge vent etc does not get ya. The harder part will be caring it off the roof. Make sure you put a tarp or carpet on the roof and 3/8 or 1/2" plywood pieces to span the rafters. Can't walk on the roof. I only say this in case you did not know. Save you the pain of a roof fix from not knowing. If all you have is an 8 foot door, your not going to make it even with the AC unit off. Back to plan B

Good luck
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:23 AM   #27
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Quote:
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once in the barn jack it back up or isn't the barn that high?
No more room inside Jim. The sliding door runs on track mounted on the second floor overlays. Built it that way to maximize door height, just didn't maximize wall height quite enough.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:48 AM   #28
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John,
Video received and viewed, thank you. I understand and agree with you about replacing all the rotten underlayment, Weyrhauser Structure Wood, according to my owners manual. I am going to have to think my next move thru as the plot is thickening. One major issue is that the layout of the T1950 allows for somewhat easy access by removing the bed and plumbing underneath, but the other half of the back end, on the drivers side, is the bath with the shower being in the back corner. I really really do not want to disrupt the bathroom walls nor remove the shower if in fact that is possible.
I also just saw a hint of water coming down inside the wall behind the shower so will take off another alum panel on back end. When I look at the floor under the shower it looks and feels fine, the observed rot is in the end wall framing at this point. Just ran out and took a few more pics. Thank you so much for the encouragement. Maybe there is a chance to get to the Adirondak M&G after all. Long way to go yet.
John
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:38 PM   #29
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You are getting good advice John. Wish we were closer and could help out !! Hang in there!
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
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You are getting good advice John. Wish we were closer and could help out !! Hang in there!
I too agree and wish I were closer.

Kathy was right about how big a job this is. I was hoping to be optimistic.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:43 PM   #31
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Hi John,

I missed the point you had a bathroom right there... This does add some complexity to this.

After removing that 1 lower piece of siding, the issue is across the entire back lower sill plate and some level of the rear wall studs. One more piece of rear siding and that may shed some more light on how far up it goes.

Look at your corner moldings for signs of the putty tape letting loose and water getting in. Putty that let loose sometimes has a dirt trail on the side of the camper once the corner molding is removed. Water for sure made it's way into the wall cavity behind the shower from some where. Most likely something above the sill plate area.

You may have uncovered more than 1 source of water entry. Can't tell for sure, but have a suspecion that the wall rot behind the shower might be from a different source then the floor rot that you started this on.

The good news is, the way these are made, wood working tools and time you can rebuild it.
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:32 AM   #32
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After having to walk away from this project, I am back at it and have turned a corner I think....now putting it back together rather than tearing out. The compromised wood has all been removed, penetrating epoxy used on adjacent areas, and new framing installed. I sistered on to the floor joists and put down fresh plywood where needed. The doubled up floor frame under the rear end is new and the rear wall is back together. Things are moving slowly, but at least forward.
Have ordered flex mend tape to patch up the membrane but will need to cover over all the patched areas. Right now I am planning on using crawlspace membrane from crawlspace.net. It is 12mil thick, white, and built to take some walking on. The mobile home membrane that Aberdeen Parts Store sells (they sent a sample) is only 4mil, made for mobile homes, not TT's. Anyone come up with a better membrane yet?
Mainah, would like to know what you ended up doing underneath and did you put in scuttles for draining?
Thanks to those of you that have shared your knowledge and suggestions along the way,
John
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Old 09-24-2014, 05:38 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbinnh View Post
I am back at it and have turned a corner I think....now putting it back together rather than tearing out.

John,

GREAT!!! Your doing a fine job.

The black membrane under the camper, yes I too found the Mobile home places as being way too thin. That membrane was the hardest thing I had to find.


I found 0.12" (12 mill) black which Keystone uses on their campers from General RV in MI. See post # 54 here http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...e-10695-4.html

It was a challenge to get them to ship it, I told them is was OK to gently fold it, not creasing it and put in a larger box, and it came OK. Just at that time they had not done much phone order and shipping. Getting then to actually ship it was the issue. I had to talk them into it.

I'll have to check out your source, did not know of them at the time. The only question would be, is their product UV stabilized? I really do not know what the Darco brand we have now has for UV stabilizers however they have held up well over the many campers Sunline used it on. I'm crossing the 10 year mark on the main membrane and still all good, no cracks or signs of UV breakdown.

Keep up the good work. Your doing great!

John
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Old 09-24-2014, 07:29 AM   #34
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Hi John,
Here is a link to the membrane I spoke of
NT-1200 Heavy Duty Vapor Barrier · Crawlspace Encapsulation Solutions - Crawlspace.net
It is UV stabilized but of some concern is the warning that it is for "light" foot traffic only. I can get a piece locally so it is very tempting.
Now the other consideration would be this underbelly material at $5/ft. Cheap enough but shipping is another $36. Underbelly Material - RV Parts & Accessories - All-Rite.com
What do you think, would it be poundwise and dollar foolish to not buy the all-rite product recommended for the job?
John
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:20 PM   #35
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OK am I missing something - you are putting this on the underbelly aren't you? So there would be no foot traffic at all....
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Old 09-24-2014, 03:26 PM   #36
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Right you are, no foot traffic. I guess I felt it spoke to the sturdiness of the membrane. It must take quite a pounding with stones and dirt and wet grit being thrown at it. For that matter, why would UV protection be necessary for an underbelly protector?
What do you think? Should I go for the real stuff or try the crawlspace membrane? Incidentally, my latest thought is seeing if anyone else needs any membrane and ordering extra, assuming you are within driving distance.
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:01 PM   #37
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I'm sorry I can't suggest one way or another - as we've never had to deal with that!!!
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Old 10-04-2014, 02:30 AM   #38
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Decided on the membrane and here it is, in place, with the trailer box bolted down to the frame. Alum skin can go back on now as soon as I track down a stapler. I will use some GRK washer head screws to attach the side panels on the bottom. The alum is a bit tenuous so ran a strip of ever- mend tape to seal all the little holes where oxidation did its job. Also easier to remove if I ever have to again. The membrane is an experiment after all. More later.
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Old 10-04-2014, 07:09 AM   #39
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John,

Your handy work continues to look great!!!

On the vapor barrier, a thought in case there is a UV concern, when you get it buttoned up, spray the membrane with 303 Protectant. 303® Aerospace Protectant™ for long-lasting finish and shine. You can find it cheaper on retailers. I get it by the gallon for the cheapest.

Even if you only spry it on once, it will make a difference in the life of the material. All the plastic on my Sunny gets it, especially the roof and roof plastic.

The only thing I have found, the inside window trim insert can get a yellow tint from it. However I once switched to Protect All and that was even worse on the yellowing tint. It is something about the UV protectors that seems to yellow tint things. However if I use Awesome cleaner on it, the yellows bleeds off. Must be a dirt etc oxidize film that builds up.

Your doing great!

Thanks for sharing.

John
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Old 10-18-2014, 06:44 PM   #40
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Well, it has been a journey, but I believe we are at the end. Last Thurs, I finished installing the plumbing and now have my old girl back in service. There is no need to post more pictures as it looks just as it did originally but with new floor and framing, both rear wall and under the bed, we feel ready to go again. As a matter of fact, we are doing a test run at Salisbury Beach State Park in Ma today. ( Too bad they close tomorrow and we have to look for another campground as there is a convention of antique campers here, mostly Shasta's, Scotties and Teardrops.)
I cannot thank you folks that helped me along the way with this renovation enough. I surely would have thrown in the towel without your words of encouragement and detailed information on what to do.
It seems, now that all is sorted out, the water damage came from the connection of filler hose to tank, all inside the camper. I never saw anything to be concerned with even though I did have to mop up a little water now and again after filling the tank. I thought it was no big deal but now know better. The damage was done over several years in my opinion and had it not been for a maintenance check of a lag screw at bottom of awning bracket at the NE M&G, it would have continued to go unnoticed for who knows how long. The floor under the bed is now painted but exposed, so no water can hide under the vinyl flooring that was there.
As a side note, we have looked at about 15 new campers, from Keystone to Airstream, and none suit us as well as our T1950.
See you at the next NE Meet and Greet or sooner.
Many thanks,
John
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