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Old 10-23-2020, 03:05 AM   #1
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Resealing/caulking everything on the exterior of 1988 saturn

So with trial and error I've learned too late how to properly caulk using soapy water, which means I'm going to need to remove my newly done caulking and redo it. (thankfully I didn't get far).

I want to reseal any holes I see, the awning connections to the siding, the windows, and any other vent or any other cut out area needing it.

I previously used dap clear 230.

I want to take the windows out of put bukly tape under them and then reseal them once cured with the caulking. Same thing with any vents that I need to take out to inspect inside. The water input door, electrical door, and the hose input circle thing I'll leave on but caulk around.

I also want to take the corner metal molding off and seal the corner with dicor seal-tape. Replacing any rusted screws and staples, using the tape over the edges and then with caulking on the metal molding rescrew it in and put the trim over.

I'd love any advise on whether or not these are safe things to do with my rv. I know the previous owner maintained it well but it still had old water damage that I don't want to happen again.

I'm maintaining and repairing every inch I can so if there is a forum I can be refered to as well on how to do everything that would help.

Thank you!
-kp


Is that the right way to do it?

Just an add on. I'm planning to do this with any vents and window I'm able to. Same with the corner molding; putting dicor seal-tape on the edge to seal.
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Old 10-24-2020, 10:12 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn View Post
Snip..

I want to reseal any holes I see, the awning connections to the siding, the windows, and any other vent or any other cut out area needing it.

I previously used dap clear 230.

I want to take the windows out of put bukly tape under them and then reseal them once cured with the caulking.

Same thing with any vents that I need to take out to inspect inside. The water input door, electrical door, and the hose input circle thing I'll leave on but caulk around.

I also want to take the corner metal molding off and seal the corner with dicor seal-tape. Replacing any rusted screws and staples, using the tape over the edges and then with caulking on the metal molding rescrew it in and put the trim over.

I'd love any advise on whether or not these are safe things to do with my rv. I know the previous owner maintained it well but it still had old water damage that I don't want to happen again.

I'm maintaining and repairing every inch I can so if there is a forum I can be refered to as well on how to do everything that would help.

Thank you!
-kp


Is that the right way to do it?

Just an add on. I'm planning to do this with any vents and window I'm able to. Same with the corner molding; putting dicor seal-tape on the edge to seal.
Hi Kaitlyn,

The basics above what you are describing, is a good thing to do to help keep your camper sealed for a long time. Water wants to get into a camper through any penetration into the roof or the siding. And that is a lot of places.

A few suggestions/clarifications.

The actual caulk, you mentioned the Dap clear 230 caulk, I have used that caulk on the house, it works well. The camper however, is a different application. From what I have found, the 230 is not the right product to hold up long term on the camper as 230 is a silicone based caulk with additives. The issue I feel comes with the flexing of the camper while towing which a house does not have. Sun damage also enters into this pending the type of Silicone. Silicone is a good product, just not for a long term fix on the camper. It will work for a few years, then start to lift on one side or the other and release its seal from the siding or molding allowing a leak path to come back. The main bead of the silicone may still be intact, but the total bond to the siding may not be.

Here are 2 products I have used which are made for the conditions the camper is exposed too.

Dicor non sag/non leveling lap sealant. I have used a lot of this, it works well, however one drawback is, it tends to have dirt stick to it and need more cleaning. This one https://dicorproducts.com/product/no...-lap-sealants/

Proflex RV made by Geocel. I started using this a few years ago. I now use this more than the Dicor non sag as my Go to, caulk to seal up a camper. I find it easier to apply then the Dicor, and the dirt does not stick to it. https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pr...xible-sealant/

Both come in many colors, both work well, both have tricks learned from use how to apply them and not make a total mess with less frustration.

The Proflex cannot be used on a rubber roof membrane, but can for most any other outside camper seal. In your case, you camper has a metal roof so the Proflex reacting with the rubber is not a concern. Just mentioning this for others following along.

This post talks about the Dicor non leveling and how to apply it. The same method applies for the Proflex. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post137746

A few extra tips that apply to both.

When going over old putty tape such as on a window, door seal etc.

- Trim off any old excess exposed putty tape around the area with a plastic scraper.
- Clean the exposed edge of the old putty tape with soap and water ,or whatever cleaner you use to clean the camper. Using a medium bristle scrub brush, scrub the black mold/yuk covering the old putty tape. You have to get the dirt/mold etc. off the old exposed tape to allow a good bond of any type of caulk.

Tips for both Proflex and Dicor

- Do not apply either caulk on a hot summer day when the siding is very hot. Think like 80F outside summer day in bright sun. Both caulks cure too fast under the high heat and will shrink negatively causing application issues. The ideal place to apply is out of the sun, and around 70F or cooler. The sun by itself is not so bad on a cool spring day, but high heat summer and full sun is a problem. Do early in the day or late in the day if you are forced to do this mid-summer.

Both products create a tiny skin over them when exposed to air. This is almost instantly. The Dicor skins over faster than the Proflex, but both have the characteristic. The thin skin helps you apply it once you understand it. If you break the skin, you into pure goo and a mess.
Using a soapy wet finger with a light touch/strokes makes the caulk smooth out. You can tell when your finger starts getting dry, just rewet and keep on going.

On the Proflex, only apply about 2 to 3 ft in length at a time, then go back and start smoothing it out. After about 8 to 10 minutes, Proflex can start to set and may no longer smooth out. If you wait too long, the caulk will glob up and roll rather than smooth out.

On the corner moldings, you mentioned Dicor seal tape. If this is the product you are referring to Seal tite tape and Seal cap caulk , https://dicorproducts.com/product/se...-seal-kit/#sku

I agree with the method. I use a slightly different approach, but both theirs and mine both create a double seal and I have nothing against the Seal-tite method. Their tape method may be slightly easier to install. I use commercial grade butyl sealing tape under the molding in plavce of putty tape and use more quantity then the normal RV manufactures use to pack the corner full with no air pockets. Then seal the exposed edge with Dicor non sag or Proflex.

You mentioned removing the windows and resetting with butyl sealing tape. I agree, if you are wanting the longest lasting method, resetting the putty tape with commercial high quality butyl sealing tape followed by the Dicor non sag and or Proflex RV creates a lasting seal. This link may help, this will drop you in the middle of a roof and wall repair post, but it talks to the butyl application process for windows, doors etc. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post131768

This one for the corner moldings https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post131986

This reply talks about the brand and where I buy my butyl sealing tape.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post154129

For folks who are not sure that want to tackle removing the windows etc, then just doing the other seal of Dicor non sag or Proflex is still helpful.

What you are setting out to do with your sealing approach, will take a good deal of time, but the end results will go a long ways to preventing leaks to your camper. You do not have to do it all at once, just keep at it and it will get done.

If you need help on this or other areas, just ask away.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-26-2020, 07:49 PM   #3
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Hey John,

Thank you so much for the amazing advice. You helped answer a lot of questions I had and confirmed some things I wanted to do were alright to do.

Regarding the roof.
I know before I even consider working on anything else I need to seal the roof.
I'm not sure what steps are necessary and in what order but I had some ideas.
My shroud for the ac comes tomorrow and I'm not sure if I should put it on before I do everything or if there is a specific way to seal around the ac in general.

I wanted to get the dicor roof paint. Since you said I have a metal roof, I'm assuming I'll use the metal roof seal paint then.

(I was looking at your winter project posts) and I saw you had put a cover over your roof and then put the gutter rails on. I'm sure we have different roofs and I know I'm not capable of doing all the amazing things you have done but I do want to take off the gutter rails and put butyl tape under it.
The roof project in general makes me nervous since this is my very first big project and I don't want to ruin it.

I know I need to remove and replace rusted screws on the corner molds and gutter.
Remove all the globbed on putty they put on everywhere.
I want to seal around the ac but not sure in what way. And same with the bathroom vent and the little circular vent on the roof too.
I bought denatured alcohol to help with taking off the residue after I scrape off the putty with a plastic scrapper.
Is there a cleaner I should use to clean the roof before I start?
If there is a way you can help me find a forum or have suggestions on how to completely seal my roof I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm doing this all by myself and since the sunline seems so unique I don't know if what I'm searching is actually going to work for my camper so your help and this website has been the best thing ever.
Thank you,
Kaitlyn
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Old 11-03-2020, 12:06 AM   #4
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Hi Kaitlyn,

Sorry so long getting back to you. Been tied up here lately. Some comments for you.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn View Post
Regarding the roof.
I know before I even consider working on anything else I need to seal the roof.

I'm not sure what steps are necessary and in what order but I had some ideas.

My shroud for the ac comes tomorrow and I'm not sure if I should put it on before I do everything or if there is a specific way to seal around the ac in general.

I wanted to get the dicor roof paint. Since you said I have a metal roof, I'm assuming I'll use the metal roof seal paint then.
Yes, servicing the roof is a big part of creating a leak free camper. However, a few things before you start into sealing the seams. The seams do need to be sealed, the question is what other work are you doing that will affect the roof and will it disturb the seam sealing? Basically, create a plan of all what you want to do, then what order you do it in.

The roof AC unit, the plastic shroud keeps a lot of the rain water out of the AC unit, or shields it, directs it. That shrouds is not the main seal from the AC unit to the roof. There is a roof gasket that is sandwiched between the top of the roof and the bottom of the AC unit pan that seals out roof water from getting into the camper. That said, you need both the shroud and the roof gasket to be good to not have leaks. You can for sure put the new shroud on when you get it. That will not interfere with other roof work and it will keep water out of the AC unit.

The roof gasket, if your existing gasket is not leaking, you do not necessarily have to replace it. If is is leaking, then yes for sure replace it. To replace it, ideally you remove the AC unit off the camper to remove, clean up and replace the gasket stuck on the bottom of the AC pan and then put the whole AC back up on the roof. You will need help as the AC unit weighs a good deal. 100 to 120#'s is common.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn View Post
(I was looking at your winter project posts) and I saw you had put a cover over your roof and then put the gutter rails on. I'm sure we have different roofs and I know I'm not capable of doing all the amazing things you have done but I do want to take off the gutter rails and put butyl tape under it.
The roof project in general makes me nervous since this is my very first big project and I don't want to ruin it.
What you saw with putting a cover on the roof, was most likely the installing of and EPDM rubber roof membrane. The newer Sunlines used the rubber roof, the older ones had an all metal roof as the waterproof membrane.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn View Post
I know I need to remove and replace rusted screws on the corner molds and gutter.
You were talking about removing the corner moldings and using the Dicro seal tape. Ideally, you do that before the roof seams as the front and back roof seams of the camper, will get seal sealing o over the roof area along with the corner molding. This is what I was referring to on the sequence, do the corner moldings first, then seam seal the joints on the roof.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn View Post
Remove all the globbed on putty they put on everywhere.

I want to seal around the ac but not sure in what way.

And same with the bathroom vent and the little circular vent on the roof too.

I bought denatured alcohol to help with taking off the residue after I scrape off the putty with a plastic scrapper.

Is there a cleaner I should use to clean the roof before I start?
Pictures help here so we can see what your roof, seams, vents and tank vents look like. Yes, old cracked sealant should come off and then new put on. There are different methods on the sealing. On the vents, using Dicor self leveling sealant will seal the vent flange and screws, same goes for the circular tank vents.

Some members used Eternabond on their metal roof to seal around the vents and the seams. The cost may be a little more, but the seal is more bullet proof. This all depends on how long you want to keep the camper. 5 years or 10 plus years?

Please link in or tell us the brand and type of products you where thinking on using on the roof.

As to cleaners, you can start with Dawn dish soap and water to wash off the dirt, rinse well. Then to start to get up the old sealant, a heat gun to warm the old sealants can help the scraping. Keep the heat gun moving not to burn too long in one spot. A metal scraper will be needed if you are using the heat gun. Sand, file or grind off all the corners on the metal scraper so it does not dig or scratch the roof.

Once you are scraped off, using a rag with mineral sprits and scrub helps soften and get the last tiny pieces of sealant off. Use nitrile gloves or other rubber gloves with the chemicals. After using mineral spirts, follow it up with a high flash cleaner to take the oil residue off. Your denatured alcohol will work for this. Not knowing what sealant some prior owner used, mineral spirts may not remove it. The mineral sprits is my go to cleaner for heavy spot cleaning, just it leaves an oily surface to then clean. The high flasher cleaners, do not leave residue, but also do not cut heavy dirt, old putty tape or Dicro as well as mineral spirts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn View Post

If there is a way you can help me find a forum or have suggestions on how to completely seal my roof I would greatly appreciate it.
On the metal roofs, the seams, joints, vents, are the a for sure a need to get sealed. The wide open areas of the metal roof, do not need sealing unless you can see or know there are pin holes in it. The metal roofs last longer then the rubber roofs do. But the sealants fail very close to the same.

You used the words, "completely seal my roof", not sure of the context of completely. If you mean seal 100% of all the open areas on the roof, they do now make roof sealing products that will do the entire roof, they cost more, but will seal all of it, seams and all open areas. If that is what you meant, let me know I'll talk about them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaitlyn View Post
I'm doing this all by myself and since the sunline seems so unique I don't know if what I'm searching is actually going to work for my camper so your help and this website has been the best thing ever.
Thank you,
Kaitlyn
You are doing great! We have other club members in the same spot you are.

Member "Thomascine" aka Tommie, redid her older camper by herself too. She had many pics of the roof work, this link will drop you in the middle of her post for some of the roof work. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post141934

She had another post one on the roof Eternabond seams. I cannot seem to find that one right now. Maybe she will drop in and post it so you can see what that option entrails.

Ask any and all questions you need help with. Pics help too so we can see what you are seeing.

Hope this helps

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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