Originally Posted by Kaitlyn
I want to reseal any holes I see, the awning connections to the siding, the windows, and any other vent or any other cut out area needing it.
I previously used dap clear 230.
I want to take the windows out of put bukly tape under them and then reseal them once cured with the caulking.
Same thing with any vents that I need to take out to inspect inside. The water input door, electrical door, and the hose input circle thing I'll leave on but caulk around.
I also want to take the corner metal molding off and seal the corner with dicor seal-tape. Replacing any rusted screws and staples, using the tape over the edges and then with caulking on the metal molding rescrew it in and put the trim over.
I'd love any advise on whether or not these are safe things to do with my rv. I know the previous owner maintained it well but it still had old water damage that I don't want to happen again.
I'm maintaining and repairing every inch I can so if there is a forum I can be refered to as well on how to do everything that would help.
Is that the right way to do it?
Just an add on. I'm planning to do this with any vents and window I'm able to. Same with the corner molding; putting dicor seal-tape on the edge to seal.
The basics above what you are describing, is a good thing to do to help keep your camper sealed for a long time. Water wants to get into a camper through any penetration into the roof or the siding. And that is a lot of places.
A few suggestions/clarifications.
The actual caulk, you mentioned the Dap clear 230 caulk, I have used that caulk on the house, it works well. The camper however, is a different application. From what I have found, the 230 is not the right product to hold up long term on the camper as 230 is a silicone based caulk with additives. The issue I feel comes with the flexing of the camper while towing which a house does not have. Sun damage also enters into this pending the type of Silicone. Silicone is a good product, just not for a long term fix on the camper. It will work for a few years, then start to lift on one side or the other and release its seal from the siding or molding allowing a leak path to come back. The main bead of the silicone may still be intact, but the total bond to the siding may not be.
Here are 2 products I have used which are made for the conditions the camper is exposed too.
Dicor non sag/non leveling lap sealant. I have used a lot of this, it works well, however one drawback is, it tends to have dirt stick to it and need more cleaning. This one https://dicorproducts.com/product/no...-lap-sealants/
Proflex RV made by Geocel. I started using this a few years ago. I now use this more than the Dicor non sag as my Go to, caulk to seal up a camper. I find it easier to apply then the Dicor, and the dirt does not stick to it. https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pr...xible-sealant/
Both come in many colors, both work well, both have tricks learned from use how to apply them and not make a total mess with less frustration.
The Proflex cannot be used on a rubber roof membrane, but can for most any other outside camper seal. In your case, you camper has a metal roof so the Proflex reacting with the rubber is not a concern. Just mentioning this for others following along.
This post talks about the Dicor non leveling and how to apply it. The same method applies for the Proflex. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post137746
A few extra tips that apply to both.
When going over old putty tape such as on a window, door seal etc.
- Trim off any old excess exposed putty tape around the area with a plastic scraper.
- Clean the exposed edge of the old putty tape with soap and water ,or whatever cleaner you use to clean the camper. Using a medium bristle scrub brush, scrub the black mold/yuk covering the old putty tape. You have to get the dirt/mold etc. off the old exposed tape to allow a good bond of any type of caulk.
Tips for both Proflex and Dicor
- Do not apply either caulk on a hot summer day when the siding is very hot. Think like 80F outside summer day in bright sun. Both caulks cure too fast under the high heat and will shrink negatively causing application issues. The ideal place to apply is out of the sun, and around 70F or cooler. The sun by itself is not so bad on a cool spring day, but high heat summer and full sun is a problem. Do early in the day or late in the day if you are forced to do this mid-summer.
Both products create a tiny skin over them when exposed to air. This is almost instantly. The Dicor skins over faster than the Proflex, but both have the characteristic. The thin skin helps you apply it once you understand it. If you break the skin, you into pure goo and a mess.
Using a soapy wet finger with a light touch/strokes makes the caulk smooth out. You can tell when your finger starts getting dry, just rewet and keep on going.
On the Proflex, only apply about 2 to 3 ft in length at a time, then go back and start smoothing it out. After about 8 to 10 minutes, Proflex can start to set and may no longer smooth out. If you wait too long, the caulk will glob up and roll rather than smooth out.
On the corner moldings, you mentioned Dicor seal tape. If this is the product you are referring to Seal tite tape and Seal cap caulk , https://dicorproducts.com/product/se...-seal-kit/#sku
I agree with the method. I use a slightly different approach, but both theirs and mine both create a double seal and I have nothing against the Seal-tite method. Their tape method may be slightly easier to install. I use commercial grade butyl sealing tape under the molding in plavce of putty tape and use more quantity then the normal RV manufactures use to pack the corner full with no air pockets. Then seal the exposed edge with Dicor non sag or Proflex.
You mentioned removing the windows and resetting with butyl sealing tape. I agree, if you are wanting the longest lasting method, resetting the putty tape with commercial high quality butyl sealing tape followed by the Dicor non sag and or Proflex RV creates a lasting seal. This link may help, this will drop you in the middle of a roof and wall repair post, but it talks to the butyl application process for windows, doors etc. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post131768
This one for the corner moldings https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post131986
This reply talks about the brand and where I buy my butyl sealing tape.
For folks who are not sure that want to tackle removing the windows etc, then just doing the other seal of Dicor non sag or Proflex is still helpful.
What you are setting out to do with your sealing approach, will take a good deal of time, but the end results will go a long ways to preventing leaks to your camper. You do not have to do it all at once, just keep at it and it will get done.
If you need help on this or other areas, just ask away.
Hope this helps