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02-15-2018, 04:14 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 35
SUN #10137
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Replacing tail lights
1988 Saturn t-1550. How do you get the wires out of the tail lights. I have to replace the entire assembly.
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02-15-2018, 10:15 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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H'mm, I have not had an 88 apart before but have you unscrewed the fixture from the body of the camper?
On the newer ones, they drilled about a 1" hole in the siding. They wire nutted the tail light wires to the camper DOT wiring, siliconed the wire nut to help keep corrosion out of the wire nut and stuffed all that back in the wall through the 1" hole. To get to the wire nuts, you pull one of the lights wires and fish them back out the hole out in the open.
Does your sound anything like that?
See here
The wires handing out of the 1" hole
Hope this helps
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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02-16-2018, 06:59 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 35
SUN #10137
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The wires go into the back of the light base. The new ones did not come with any wires attached.
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02-16-2018, 09:08 AM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Any chance of a pic or a link to the new one? Do they have screw terminals on the outside or solder lugs to, make the wire connection?
The older ones that I have seen are fairly standard for the time period with 3 wire pigtails wires (about 4 to 5" long) coming out of the back. Is this what you older one looks like?
Trying to understand the problem you are having.
On the older ones with the pigtails, the wires were riveted into the bulb socket connections. (ground, turn and stop) So you really did not unhook them at the rivit, you did at the end of the pigtail wire. If that is the issue as you new one has no pigtails, then can you just cut the wire off at the edge of the old fixture and then attach that wire to the new light? Not seeing the issue I can't think of what it is your up against.
Hope this helps
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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02-16-2018, 09:54 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Mine has been modified but maybe it will give you some ideas.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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02-16-2018, 12:53 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine
Mine has been modified but maybe it will give you some ideas.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Interesting setup Tommie, but your wall mounted lights are replacements as well- Bargman #92 series. Those do come with wire pigtails that go through the back of the light and into pigtails in the trailer. Correct original equipment for Sunlines 1997 to 2007, but not for yours. Yours, and every Sunline from about 1976 through 1992 originally had the square corner Peterson V29514/29511, with or without backup lights.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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02-16-2018, 04:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Thanks Sunline Fan, good to know. I am not sure why the previous owner installed the other lights below the wall mounted lights except that I think they are LEDs.
Thanks,
Tommie
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02-16-2018, 06:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pagroundhog
The wires go into the back of the light base. The new ones did not come with any wires attached.
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Yes they friction fit if you look closely you will see a small round hole it's meant to put something like a paperclip in to release the wires. It's far easier to cut the wire off of the old ones and skin them if your new lights have no wires there will be holes that you need to push the wires in they will go in fairly easily but come out hard. Pay attention to the color and match them up on the new ones holes.
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02-17-2018, 11:07 AM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pagroundhog
The wires go into the back of the light base. The new ones did not come with any wires attached.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah
Yes they friction fit if you look closely you will see a small round hole it's meant to put something like a paperclip in to release the wires. It's far easier to cut the wire off of the old ones and skin them if your new lights have no wires there will be holes that you need to push the wires in they will go in fairly easily but come out hard. Pay attention to the color and match them up on the new ones holes.
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OK, Mainah has it. The push in types. I have them on my flat bed trailer. I really hate them big time. Corrosion on the wires gets them in my case and then they stop working. They are fast to install, work good for about 1 to 2 years then it's downhill from there if the trailer has been outside very much or towed when it is wet out. They came with my flat bed trailer and a complete rewire and sealed LED upgrade is in it's future. They also used skotch type wire joints which are even worse than the plug in fixtures.
If you have this type, I would suggest you solder (tin) the ends of the wire before inserting them into the fixture. And after they are inserted, possibly apply some dielectric grease at the outside edge of the wire to the plastic housing to try and keep some of the moisture out.
Hope this helps
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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02-17-2018, 01:31 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: New York
Posts: 64
SUN #10274
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Repair
pagroundhog: On my 1550 the wires went back in the hole behind the light. Not a good picture but maybe it will help. Frank
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1987 1550 Saturn Sunline
2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended cab
Amateur Radio WB2IRE
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02-17-2018, 04:47 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
OK, Mainah has it. The push in types. I have them on my flat bed trailer. I really hate them big time. Corrosion on the wires gets them in my case and then they stop working. They are fast to install, work good for about 1 to 2 years then it's downhill from there if the trailer has been outside very much or towed when it is wet out. They came with my flat bed trailer and a complete rewire and sealed LED upgrade is in it's future. They also used skotch type wire joints which are even worse than the plug in fixtures.
If you have this type, I would suggest you solder (tin) the ends of the wire before inserting them into the fixture. And after they are inserted, possibly apply some dielectric grease at the outside edge of the wire to the plastic housing to try and keep some of the moisture out.
Hope this helps
John
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Yes good plan, RV light fixture leave a great deal to be desired in general I guess it's so anyone can deal with them. Even the factory one are pretty cheap and I don't even want to go there with clearance lights!
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