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Old 04-23-2015, 08:11 PM   #1
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Removing decal and striping

Any suggestions on how to remove decal and stripes so they can be replaced?
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Old 04-24-2015, 01:34 PM   #2
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We would also like to know this !
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:18 PM   #3
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How I did it

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Originally Posted by Sonomatty View Post
Any suggestions on how to remove decal and stripes so they can be replaced?


I used a hair dryer and slowly peeled the old decal off. It should also work on striping. Then I used denatured alcohol to wipe off the sticky gunk that was left after the decal was completely removed. I tested the alcohol on the stone guard before I used it all over. It didn't seem to take off any sheen, so I went ahead and used the alcohol on all of the gunk. It took no time at all, and you can see the results in the albums.
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:49 AM   #4
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I found a rubber wheel disc on e-bay that fits in your drill and it took the decals off in no time at all...the disc is made by the 3M company and I believe the cost was around $22.00.I tried the hair dryer and i believe Go-Gone and just didn't work on my 82 camper..maybe they were on there for so many years.
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:11 AM   #5
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I've been taking the stripes off mine and used a heat gun to remove the stripes. I have tried Goo Gone also for the adhesive and it is worthless. Going to try Goof Off now.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:19 AM   #6
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And once the old are removed what is everyone doing to replace them? We cannot find anyone here in VT who will put on the stripes and duplicate the decals....
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Old 05-05-2015, 04:52 AM   #7
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I agree. I have used the hair dryer technic and have also used the small propane torch.
Hair dryer is safer so not to warp the aluminum
GooGone also works great after the fact.
Ya, it sure would be great to find a replacement decal source.
There has to be a business out there somewhere that can create retro decals
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:41 AM   #8
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As a professional Model Maker. We use Bestine for removing any/all rubber cement base labels and appliques.

Found in many art supply stores of which I linked one below.

I haven't tried it on my trailer yet, but it is a professional solvent. It isn't the cheapest material and one wants to use caution with it....i.e. not bath in it, as it is absorbed thru the skin, flammable and all the other nasty solvent like attributes.

It generally doesn't hurt painted, plastic or most surfaces.

Bestine Solvent and Thinner - BLICK art materials
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I agree. I have used the hair dryer technic and have also used the small propane torch.
Hair dryer is safer so not to warp the aluminum
GooGone also works great after the fact.
Ya, it sure would be great to find a replacement decal source.
There has to be a business out there somewhere that can create retro decals
Any ideas from the group on having decals made?
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:03 AM   #10
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This may not be the exact answer, but a search along this line may be. Also, I thought there was a tread here at one time that someone had taken artwork to a sign shop or other printing type firm and had something made up.

Maybe Google "sign shop" or "vinyl sign shop"

Car Decals, Custom Decals, Car Graphics, Vehicle Graphics, Auto Body Decals, Carbon Fiber, Window Decals, Stickers
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Old 05-05-2015, 12:25 PM   #11
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This may not be the exact answer, but a search along this line may be. Also, I thought there was a tread here at one time that someone had taken artwork to a sign shop or other printing type firm and had something made up.

Maybe Google "sign shop" or "vinyl sign shop"
Car Decals, Custom Decals, Car Graphics, Vehicle Graphics, Auto Body Decals, Carbon Fiber, Window Decals, Stickers
Thanks ! Will check it out. Funny thing is we have an excellent sign/ car stripe guy just down the road (and we're out in the boonies). He loves to do race cars, etc. and even came over and looked at the camper and said no problem. But we cannot get him to commit to it. He "says" he will do it in June. We will see. He knows we will pay so that is not the issue.
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