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05-28-2011, 06:24 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
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Remove door knob?
This knob is for the door that accesses the galley in the back of our '79 Sunspot. I can't figure out how to get it off. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Frank
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2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550
Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
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05-28-2011, 06:47 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,289
SUN #17
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Just a guess, but try sliding the collar towards the knob and see if this reveals the screws. IF it does, you need one of those sorts "Z" shaped screw drivers to remove the screws. Good Luck
Kitty
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Sunny #18 2003 F-344SR #8157
Sunny #19 1997 T-2653 #5485
1999 Ford F350XLT DRW Crew Cab, Long bed 7.3 PSD
2002 VW Jetta TDI.. AKA: Kitty's Kruiser
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05-28-2011, 06:52 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
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Tried that Kitty, no go. Thanks for the suggestion though. I've got a few of those "Z" screwdrivers too, both standard and Phillips.
Maybe somebody else with a small Sunline has done this, and will respond.
Frank
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550
Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
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05-28-2011, 07:03 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 2,040
SUN #897
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Can you see a small rectangular hole, in the shaft between the knob and collar? If so, push the small piece inside with a screwdriver. That would allow you to remove the knob and the collar. Other than that, I'm not sure. I can go look at the entry door on our 17-1/2SB and see what it has..
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05-28-2011, 07:10 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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On the inside knob, there is a small slot visible on the shaft between the knob and the decorative collar. If memory serves, you have to get in there with a tiny flat blade and lift or depress a tab which will allow the knob to slide off the shaft.
There may also be a similar slot at 6 o'clock as well.
It's been while since I fixed a lock like that so the memory cells are fading. I can tell you that it is a standard, inexpensive home exterior door lockset, but one step down from the familiar KwikSet's. Is there a name stamped any where on it?
You may find an identical lock on the mobile home repair rack at a home improvement store or similar. You might also see it in the regular door lock section.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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05-28-2011, 07:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
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There is a small slot at noon on the inside knob Steve, and I was wondering if maybe there wasn't a catch or something in there. I think the small screwdriver I was poking at it with was too big. I'll give it a try tomorrow morning. I'm not in any rush, just want to replace both side door and galley door knobs with a single keyed entrance set. No keys came with the trailer. The entrance door knob is standard two screws on the inside, the kind I'm used to.
The entrance door was rotted badly, so I took it apart and bought a piece of .082 aluminum sheet to replace the vinyl exterior panel on the door. I still need to cut out the hole for the window and make some filler up for that door, but figured now would be a good time to replace both knobs with a common key. All I could find for replacement aluminum screws for the door are #10's at Lowe's. I looked on the web for aluminum screws, but didn't have much luck. What came out of it were #6's, and what I would like to find is #7's. Neither of the big fastener places in Albany NY carry aluminum screws at all!
Thanks for the tip Steve. I'll keep y'all posted.
Frank
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550
Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
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05-29-2011, 06:19 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 638
SUN #987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a
I looked on the web for aluminum screws, but didn't have much luck.
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We sailors have this issue all the time, fastening stainless to aluminium. Since your trailer isn't immersed in sea water, you can use stainless steel screws. 18-8 Stainless steel has no reaction with aluminum. Make sure that your screws are 18-8 type material. Also 300 series stainless will work . Just don't use any 400 series stainless steel as it is magnetic (has higher carbon content) which is the reaction problem.
Good luck,
Teach
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Wright Ellis and Penny Sedgley
'10 Tundra 4X4
SOB -'14 Rockwood 2604WS ( Rocky)
"Life is a cruel teacher. She gives the test first; the lesson then follows."
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05-29-2011, 08:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 460
SUN #1953
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Good tips there Teach, thanks! That will hopefully save me drilling a bunch of #10 holes in the frame!
Frank
__________________
__________________
2009 GMC Canyon with factory tow package & new fangled brake controller
2008 Subaru Outback
1983 Sunline T-1550
Image to come as soon as I figure out how to flatten a pic!
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