From what you are describing the igniter is not working. And why can be a few things. Before you do any of this, are you electrically friendly and have a volt ohm meter? If any of this you are not comfortable with doing, stop, and find an electrician buddy.
Here are the basics. Since yours is a 2006 unit it very closely matches mine.
See this pic. Note this is pre- recall pic without high temp shutdown system added. In this pic below the big white bar code sticker is a black cover Approx 1.5" wide x 3" long. Behind that black cover is the igniter
This pic is not with the recall done. When that black cover is off now you see the white igniter. You will see a yellow wire (hot wire) a black wire (ground) and a silver clear cable. (high voltage igniter wire)
The first trouble shooting thing for an electrical problem on a fridge is grounds. The black wire from the igniter goes to a stud that is on the connection board plate with a lot of grounds on the same stud. You can see part of that stud here. To the left of the white incoming power terminal block right at the 02 in the picture date.
Is there is a lot of corrosion on that ground stud? Shut the 120 VAC power off and turn the battery disconnect switch off. If you want to verify you have a ground issue, take your ohm meter and check for resistance level between the incoming ground wire and the black ground wire on the white igniter. It should be less than 10 ohms and close to 0. Since your fridge runs on 120 VAC the PC board is working and the main ground to the fridge is working. If you want to check that you can, do an ohm check between the incoming black ground to a known solid frame ground to the camper battery. It should be close to 0.
If that ground post has any corrosion on it, take all the wires off, sand them clean, put dielectric grease on them and bolt it back up. OK this puts the ground in good shape for the moment.
Now to start the trouble shooting. Turn the camper battery on. Leave the 120 VAC off, we are only using 12 VDC now. Using the volt meter check the incoming voltage at the fridge. If your battery is charged up, it should be in the 12.6 volt range or higher. The fridge is suppose to work down to 9.6 volts but that is really low. If your down below 12.0 volts your battery is drained or you have a supply issue. If the voltage is down this far check at battery for voltage and if it is up at 12.6 or higher then the wiring from the power supply has some resiance some where to track down.
Assuming the voltage is OK, have someone turn the fridge on inside while you are outside and listen. Since no 120VAC should be on, it will start on gas even in Auto. When the PC board turns on that yellow wire off the PC board goes hot. See the yellow wire where it says valve/relay on the top right plug.
That yellow wire goes to the gas valve and then up to the igniter. See here
The unit will go into trail for ignition and you should hear, clunk or click of the gas valve opening. Then snap, snap, snap non stop about once every 1 second. It should be snap, snap'ing for 45 seconds non stop. After 45 seconds it will shut down the gas valve, wait 2 minutes to purge, then try again. It will do this 3 times, then shut done on saftey if ignition has not started and the fault light will come on. So yes, it can be 6 minutes before the fault light comes on.
If you do not hear the snap'ing non stop, you hear the clunk,click of the gas valve, this points to the igniter area. You can do this test to sort out if it is the white igniter module. With the power off, pull the clear/silver igniter wire out of the igniter module. Turn power on, try it again and you should hear the snaping. If no snap, then your igniter is weak or bad.
Let us know if you made it past this part before we go further. What you described sounds like this part of the system.
Hope this helps