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Old 07-20-2013, 06:13 AM   #1
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Refrigerator

Hi Everyone,

Quick refrigerator question.... our camper is approx. 10 years old, and is used relatively lightly during the summer months.

On the weekend, or fridge seemed to quit working on propane. However, on electricity, all seems to be fine. [There is lots of propane in the tanks.]

Someone told me to 'blow out the lines' in case of cobwebs, dirt, etc..... but I'm not exactly sure what that means!

Any help or advice on other items to check would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
jbaker
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:38 AM   #2
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What model is it? What is it doing when you try to light it? I know there is an orifice for the gas and the flue can get buildup of dirt and rust but I've never actually cleaned one. Mine had a bad ignitor and would only operate on electric.

Good news is it still works on electric. That means the cooling unit itself is OK. Other repair parts are relatively inexpensive.
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:25 AM   #3
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Don't stick anything in the orifice. I use canned air to blow out burner. If refrig. Has electric ignition you should hear a snapping noise when its trying to start. You may have to stand outside by vent to hear it.
Video kind of goofy but gives you idea.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:18 PM   #4
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As underdog said, model will help.

Does the gas light but not cool the fridge or does the gas not light at all?
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Old 07-21-2013, 05:41 AM   #5
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thanks everyone,...... I will find out the model number and report back. The camper is at a relative's place right now, but I will be going there tomorrow.
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:33 PM   #6
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I have a number of parts for a 2820 (they probably fit many others). I have a building in the woods at my place and was looking for a propane fridge and I brought one back from the dump. All the controls work gas valves controller etc. but alas it has a leaky cooling unit so if any one needs parts let me know.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:51 PM   #7
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Hi Everyone,
Finally getting back.... thanks again for replying to my 'cry for help'.
Good news and bad news....good news, I have the Model number - it is a Dometic RM 2652, if that helps.
Bad news is... now it has quit working on electricity also [before it was working on hydro, but not on gas].
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:26 PM   #8
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It's crazy how I'm starting to see the early '00's Dometics starting to fail at quite a high rate. I know starting and stopping it a lot doesn't help them, but they do seem to be failing a bit prematurely. It used to be they had to be 15-20 years old before one would fail, now it's 10.
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Old 08-01-2013, 03:51 PM   #9
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2001 solaris sunline tanks full of propane, new battery
do I need to have the battery hooked up to run refrigerator? even if gas open??
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbaker View Post
Hi Everyone,
Finally getting back.... thanks again for replying to my 'cry for help'.
Good news and bad news....good news, I have the Model number - it is a Dometic RM 2652, if that helps.
Bad news is... now it has quit working on electricity also [before it was working on hydro, but not on gas].
I think that model was part of a Dometic recall check their web site they kind of caught fire if so they will replace the cooling unit free of charge.
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:08 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by suealton6 View Post
2001 solaris sunline tanks full of propane, new battery
do I need to have the battery hooked up to run refrigerator? even if gas open??
Probably if it has a control panel with lights.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:20 PM   #12
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I have a Dometic RM2652 and it does require 12 volts to run the control board that runs the fridge. Also need 12 volts to open the gas valve and for the gas igniter.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:48 PM   #13
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Hi All,
I'm back again..... after blowing out the lines, similar to the above video,.... all seems to be working great on gas. However, it doesn't seem to be working properly on hydro. Fuses are okay,.... so too are the breakers,... seems be power getting to the fridge as the lights work, etc.
Any thoughts anyone?

Thanks again for all your help.... greatly appreciated!
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbaker View Post
Hi All,
I'm back again..... after blowing out the lines, similar to the above video,.... all seems to be working great on gas. However, it doesn't seem to be working properly on hydro.
Thanks again for all your help.... greatly appreciated!
jbaker
What do you mean when you say that the refrigerator is, "working on hydro"?? The absorption refrigeration process of these units does incorporate hydrogen gas. Do you perhaps want to say that your refrigerator works properly when utilizing 120VAC as its heating source?
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:23 AM   #15
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The first thing I would check is the electric heating element to see if it has continuity also if there is corrosion where it connects to the main board. There is also a circuit board in the eyebrow that could be bad.
The heating element is in the flue pipe above where the the burner is.This is what the heating element looks like
yhst-17908773761865_2273_4859758.jpg
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannabes View Post
What do you mean when you say that the refrigerator is, "working on hydro"?? The absorption refrigeration process of these units does incorporate hydrogen gas. Do you perhaps want to say that your refrigerator works properly when utilizing 120VAC as its heating source?
He's in Canada, hydro is electric.
Hydro is short for B.C. Hydro and that's the company that supplies your electricity. Power in BC is hydro-electric - that is, it comes from water generation.
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:12 PM   #17
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Hi,
By hydro,... I simply meant it does not work on electricity when plugged in.

Thanks,
jbaker
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:42 AM   #18
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Here is some thing you might check. There is a control board and it decides what it will use to make the fridge work either 120 volts (hydro) or gas. If there is no power then the gas will power the fridge using 12 volts and with power then the gas is shut off. There should be a black cover that is removable over the controller, in side there are two glass fuses a 3 amp and a 6 amp. be sure your 120 volt power is off before you remove the cover there are exposed energized parts inside (you can simply unplug the fridge at it's outlet) The 12 volt is not dangerous so you can leave that connected when you check the fuses.
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