Part Suppliers and Repair Facilities

[suebobby]

Driftwood RV Center
1975 Rt. 9 North, Clermont, NJ 08210
(800) 624-3743
6623 Black Horse Pike, Egg Harbor Twp., NJ 08234
(888- 350-4678

NJ RV Sales, RV Dealer NJ, Driftwood RV Center, NJ RV Dealer, Trailers, 5th wheels, Park Models, Driftwood Rents Motorhomes, PA RV Dealer

[Poppy & Nana]

Originally Posted by suebobby

Driftwood RV Center
1975 Rt. 9 North, Clermont, NJ 08210
(800) 624-3743
6623 Black Horse Pike, Egg Harbor Twp., NJ 08234
(888- 350-4678

NJ RV Sales, RV Dealer NJ, Driftwood RV Center, NJ RV Dealer, Trailers, 5th wheels, Park Models, Driftwood Rents Motorhomes, PA RV Dealer

Bob are you indicating that Driftwood has Sunline decals?????

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by Poppy & Nana

Bob are you indicating that Driftwood has Sunline decals?????

That's the second advertising type thing I've seen for Driftwood. I'm wondering if his account has been hacked? Last I knew, Driftwood had nothing of the sort, and certainly not for a 1989.

The only 1989 decals out there floating around would be the small side Sunline decals, and there aren't many. No striping or large logo decals have existed for quite a long time.

[Poppy & Nana]

Jon....we met Bob this past weekend at Rochester M&G.....he is working for Driftwood RV and posted a Sunline that came into the lot last week.....I don't think his account has been hacked.....



PS - did you get the mail package?

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by Poppy & Nana

Jon....we met Bob this past weekend at Rochester M&G.....he is working for Driftwood RV and posted a Sunline that came into the lot last week.....I don't think his account has been hacked.....



PS - did you get the mail package?

Oh ok, didn't know that.

Yes, I got the package! Thanks again! Sorry for not letting you know sooner, I was home for like only an hour the whole weekend.

[Poppy & Nana]

Originally Posted by Sunline Fan

Oh ok, didn't know that.

Yes, I got the package! Thanks again! Sorry for not letting you know sooner, I was home for like only an hour the whole weekend.

That's OK we were not home at all.....Western NY M&G - great time had by all, even if I say so myself......

[suebobby]

Checked with our parts dept., no Sunline decals avail. although we were an authorized Sunline dealer.

[gypsyRN]

Thank you this will help me a lot in my new adventure

[davesmary]

vinyl insert size for a t17-a saturn

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by davesmary

vinyl insert size for a t17-a saturn

Welcome davesmary!

We need more info on your parts inquiry to help better.

What year is your Saturn T17-A camper?

Which specific area of the camper are you looking for?

The camper's vinyl inserts come in different sizes, and the model year may also affect the size.

Area 1: Screw cover vinyl insert for the gutter rails (if yours has them), and the four corner moldings have a certain size.

Area 2: The screw cover vinyl insert for the molding for cargo compartment doors and entry doors have a different size than the gutter rails/corners.

Area 3: If you are looking for vinyl trim/insert that is part of the windows, that is very different, and we have to drill into the type and style of the window.

Please provide us with more information so we can better assist you. Also, please post a picture of the area where you are trying to replace the cover. Pictures go a long way in helping identify the right parts. If you need help posting pictures, let us know.

I hope this helps,

John

[davesmary]

1997 i,m replacing the roof the ones that go down the back and the roof top

[davesmary]

the gutter rail s

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by davesmary

1997 i,m replacing the roof the ones that go down the back and the roof top

OK,

The gutter rail screw cover (along the roof side walls) and the corner moldings that go down the front and rear walls use 1" wide.

I have used the Camco brand for the 1" wide and had good luck. They sell it in different colors, in my case I used white. Your 97 should be on white also.

Here is one place that I bought it from
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25212-V...W5M/ref=sr_1_5


The prices are mega inflated from pre-covid, but so is everything else.

If you are looking for the cargo door/entry doors, if yours has the trim insert, it will be smaller, 3/4", as the channel is narrower.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25262-V..._pspc_dp_2_t_2


I have also used the RV Designer brands, and they work well. I prefer the Camco on the 1", and sometimes I use the RV Designer on the 3/4 as it is a little more pliable to get into the cargo door track.

https://www.rvdesigner.com/prodview....4#Installation

Let us know if you need more on this.

John

[davesmary]

thank you i'm thing about the roof decking using 1/4 inch plywood. what does everyone use for roof decking

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by davesmary

thank you i'm thing about the roof decking using 1/4 inch plywood. what does everyone use for roof decking

Hi,

If you are talking about decking, it sounds like you are into an all-new roof.

On the decking question, please take a look at these two posts, which talk about decking thickness options.

https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post147693

And, this one talks about the weight difference between a nominal 1/4" and a normal 3/8 decking and some other good roofing needs/changes.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tch-19201.html

I have done several re-roofs replacing the original Sunline bud-board backing on EPDM rubber using the nominal 1/4" decking when weight was a concern. The 1/4" screwed down will create a good deck to glue a new EPDM, TPO, or PVC membrane to or under an older Sunline metal roof you are reusing the metal. However, on the metal roof, you have to deal with the 1/4" difference in height, which is harder to do than the all-new flexible membranes. The 1/4" will shed water well, better than the original bud-board roof. I use the 1/4" when the size of the camper and the owner does not want to lose cargo capacity to go up to 3/8". The 1/4", in my opinion, is not a direct walk-on roof. You will need extra support boards when servicing the roof. The 1/4" deck also needs backer boards locally placed under the deck to hold screwed-down vents and skylights. 1/4" will strip out quickly, trying to screw down the vents. etc.

I have also done several using the nominal 3/8" decking. It has all the watershed features of the 1/4" with the ability to walk directly on it and not need extra backer boards for screw grip at the vents etc. You will have to blend in (taper) the 3/8" decking at the rear and front walls so the original moldings will still fit with the thicker deck than the original. The 3/8" comes with added weight. I do this on larger campers with larger cargo capacities, and the owner was willing to give up some cargo capacity to have the walk-on feature.

I only use 1/8" Luan when doing small-size local spot repairs when the main roof is still the original bud-board roof. The 1/8" will not hold screws and, most times, needs extra support wood under it.

Also, I use the wording nominal as plywood today, in many cases, is not full thickness like it used to be. Most nominal sizes are about 1/32" or slightly more under the nominal number. It is metric-sized.

I hope this helps.

John

[davesmary]

yes what kind of roof membrane do you use i'm thinking pvc but not sure and yes to 3/8 plywood i like the idea of being able to walk on the roof and the roof is only 12 ft long not that much more weight thanks for all the help i'm starting on it in a few weeks

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by davesmary

yes what kind of roof membrane do you use i'm thinking pvc but not sure and yes to 3/8 plywood i like the idea of being able to walk on the roof and the roof is only 12 ft long not that much more weight thanks for all the help i'm starting on it in a few weeks

Hi,

On the roof membrane, Sunline (and much of the RV world pre-2007) used a two-ply EPDM rubber membrane that was 40 mils thick (0.040"). This was an excellent membrane; it was tried and true. Yes, dirt streaks came off of it, but it had other features that the PVC and TPO did not. For cost reasons, not that it was not a suitable membrane, the RV industry stopped using it around 2019/2020 time frame. I could not find it for sale in 40 mils after all the old stock was sold out. You can find 0.060 2-ply white EPDM commercial EPDM, but it comes in 12 ft wide (you only need 8 1/2' or 9' wide), so there is a lot of waste if you have a long camper, and the cost is high. But you get a commercial-grade warranty for it.

This leaves you with single-ply TPO or PVC at a much lower cost than 60 mil EPDM. A large portion of the RV world is now using both TPO and PVC. TPO
& PVC had issues early in its life (many years ago) until they worked through the problems. The old issues have faded away with improvements, but there are differences in understanding each.

PVC and TPO, which are plastic formulations (no rubber in them), are very competitive in price and warranty on the membrane. You need to pick which you think is best for you. I will point out some differences. The manufacturers boast that their products are superior to others. It's an advertising thing. Remember that these RV versions of TPO and PVC differ from those used on commercial-grade buildings, as did the older 40 mil EPDM rubber. They are made at a lower cost and have less life than commercial-grade products. The point is, if you research this and see a lot of buildings using TPO or PVC, keep in mind that it differs from the RV grades.

When I could not get the 40 mil EPDM in 2021, I picked and installed the Alfa Systems TPO (https://alphallc.us/products/roofing/) on a 2007 T-289SR I was restoring for a friend. It is installed the same way as EPDM. The Alfa TPO has a textured top surface to help prevent it from being so slippery. Alfa has two types of glue: fast-set and slow-set. You want the slow-set glue, which gives you more time to get things in place before it starts curing. You want to use their brand glue to avoid any warranty claim issues. I also used the Alfa caulking to ensure it would bond to their plastic membrane. I know a fair amount about plastics from my work life, and getting things to stick to them can be a challenge. The Dicor lap sealants on EPDM were much more aggressive of a bond than the Alfa lap sealants on TPO. But that does not make them not usable, just noting it.

Now to PVC: one of my water-damaged project campers (2007 T2499) came with a PVC roof membrane installed by another dealer. The installation was not done well, but the PVC material looked promising. Digging into this, I connected with the factory applications person from Lasalle Bristol, as I wanted to have it as an option for campers. These folks https://www.lasallebristol.com/xtrm-ply-pvc/. I questioned him about all the issues in RV roofs I knew of and the roof on the T2499 I acquired. It was an excellent talk, and then they sent me a bunch of items to review: a sample membrane, the moisture cure sealing tape, and a tube of their band lap sealant to review. I was impressed by what I saw and found. It will be installed with the same process as EPDM or TPO. But if you want to use their brand glue and lap sealant, I would use their sealing tape. There are some learnings on this.

The cleanability of PVC is shocking. It cleans so easily it is amazing. A heavily dirty roof will clean back to shiny white with one squirt of most any cleaner and a wipe with a paper towel. The surface is smooth, so it wipes right off. BUT, that smooth surface is instant death walking on it when it is wet. Do not walk on a camper PVC roof when it is damp for any reason. The same goes for TPO, too; it is less slippery than the PVC but still, let it dry before servicing the roof for any reason. The factory rep even reinforced that with me.

When installing a roof, PVC and TPO are plastics; you must deal with hard, sharp corners. The installers of the 2007 T2499 PVC cracked the membrane the day they installed it by tightening the awning bracket to the gutter rail against the PVC. There were two slits in it from the day they installed it. Those two slits, after three years, contributed to total damage in the entire wall and a good portion of the floor in this camper.

They also stapled the decking to the rafters, which were found to be popping up and lifting the membrane, and with enough time, it would create holes in the membrane. I have also seen this same issue with decking screws used in sheet metal rafters on a 2019 Keystone Fith wheel. You want to use wood rafters/decking and countersink, the screws flush to the roof. Do not go a lot below flush, as that leaves a poke hole, as the glue does not stick to the metal flathead screw. I recommend you get a countersink bit with a depth stop on it. All the decking edges at the perimeter must be sanded to a good at least 1/8" to 3/16" smooth radius to eliminate the hard, sharp corner on the decking, or you can crack the PVC or TPO over time.

Look over the TPO and PVC options and price out both for your situation.

I'll address the 3/8" decking in the following reply.

I hope this helps

John

[JohnB]

You are welcome, glad to help.

Consider creating a post in the maintenance and repairs forum when you do your roof project. It helps other who come after you.

Originally Posted by davesmary

yes to 3/8 plywood i like the idea of being able to walk on the roof and the roof is only 12 ft long not that much more weight thanks for all the help i'm starting on it in a few weeks

If you are going with 3/8" decking, you need to deal with tapering the plywood at the front and back wall to blend in the new higher roof surface.

For the front wall, please take a look at this post with pics of where I explained to another forum member how to taper the rafters and the decking to match the front wall siding. The link drops in the middle of the post; you can read the rest of the thread as needed.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post157046

Here is one pic showing the front taper I'm referring to.


The rear wall, the back wall roof, and the back wall siding will be affected by the molding being an entire 3/8" higher. The leg of the molding that goes down the back wall gets lifted by the height of the new decking. I have done one camper with 3/8" and no taper at the back wall, it just made it to cover over all the staple holes Sunline had holding on the siding. I have since changed this to taper the back wall area decking to thin it down in the last 4 to 6" to allow the rear roof molding to go down the wall further and get better coverage and sealing. See this link to see how I explained this.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post157209

Here is one pic showing what I am talking about.


Also, please look at this post by Rlanger, who was doing his roof outside. His post deals with many things you may run into, like the hot sun drying the gluer fast, adding butyl tape at the edge of the 3/8" decking at the side walls to deal with the added thickness, and other good tips.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...lly-20707.html


These two posts also have a lot of good roofing pics and explanations, including the 1/4" roof and the 3/8" decked roof.

1/4". https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post154533

3/8" This is an earlier 3/8" deck. I have tweaked some of the processes since. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...avy-16834.html

I hope this helps.

John