I have used the Rusty Metal primer (oil based) and their Professional Black Enamel (oil based) and so far I like the outcome. I did the black iron gas pipe and fittings as well. I did not do the copper lines.
See this post and the few following it. It shows part of my frame painting project
A few things to realize. If you read the can of the black enamel it states to only use acetone only to thin it if you need to. I "think" the primer also used acetone, check the can, I'm not 100% on the clean metal primer but I think I recall reading it there too.
I had the rusty metal primer in the gallon can. I did notice that the paint in the can skinned over after the 1st use. I mixed it up well, poured out what I needed and resealed the can while I painted and reopened to put any left over back in. So the can was closed most of the time. Come back a week later to do the next area and it has good heavy skin over the top. Since I did the paint job in sections of time, I came back to that gallon can 4 to 5 times. Every time it had a heavy skin. I used a stick to get it out and disposed of it each time. The black does not do this, just the rusty metal primer. I even used the white clean metal primer on new steel and it did not skin over like the rusty metal primer did. Don't know why, just passing on it did.
I did scrape, wire brush the steel to get loose rust off. And that dust goes all over.... I did not heavily sand back to shinny metal, just knocked off the loose rust. I used a car cleaner to hand wipe down all the areas to degrease/dedust and let it dry out before doing the priming.
Be very careful with the pressure washer. If that blasts in through your Darco black membrane it will get water into the insulation and be trapped inside. If I were to pressure wash the frame I would only do the lower parts of the axle area to get grease and brake dust off and blast downward only. I would not have the high pressure hose hit the frame up high by the black membrane. The membrane gets brittle over the years and it will not take much to break through. Mine is 2004, a little newer then yours.
OH, and friendly heads up tip. For sure wear safety glasses when de-rusting and painting overhead. A paint drip hitting you in the eye is bad news with this kind of paint. Those drips fall from the darnedest places. A number of years ago I painted the frame of our other camper and a drip snuck in-between my safety glasses and my regular eye glasses and landed on the bridge of my nose. I was lucky and after that the full face shield came out.
Also, start doing back exercises and stretching now.... It will help with the pretzel feeling you are going to feel like crawling out from under the frame... I am for sure glad I did the paint job and all the prep, but I am for sure glad it is over...
Good luck with yours and let us know how it comes out
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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