Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Technical Forums > Repairs and Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-25-2012, 11:14 AM   #1
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
No heat...still

When I brought my trailer home in late Sept. I couldn't get the a/c or the heat to work. Took the a/c unit apart to find the board was fried due to a lizard got in there. My replacement board showed up the day I was leaving on my first trip out with this trailer, so just in case we grabbed a small electric heater because it was going to be 25* in Maine that night.
After putting the new board in the a/c unit works fine, but the heater still does not work.
Today I finally had time to look into it more. I took the board out of the furnace and cleaned up the contacts, checked the volts. I think everything is right. I talked to my father he said that the fan on the furnace should come on for a few seconds before the pilot will light. Is this true? That does not happen in my case.
So... My question is. Could it be the board at this point? Or the blower motor?
I really hate to just buy parts that I don't really need, also don't like paying other people to do my work.
It is an Atwood 8525-III DCLP.
Any help would be great!
Thanks,
Jay
__________________

__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 04:02 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
mainah is an unknown quantity at this point
Yes the fan should work before any thing else it's call pre purge the same thing happens when it's through heating (post purge) the ideal is to blow any propane out of the fire box so it does not go boom when it lights. Your problem may well be the fan motor did a check list come with the board? You may try twisting the thermostat wires together and see what that does it will not do any thing until it has a signal from the thermostat.
__________________

__________________
mainah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 06:44 PM   #3
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
The board I replaced was in the ac unit. The board I pulled out and cleaned up today was the board in the furnace. Still no fan action. Maybe next chance I get I'll try to make a jumper and run the fan motor.
__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2012, 08:43 PM   #4
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi Jay,

This service manual may help. It a newer 8525 - IV but it lists a 8525-III wiring diagram on page. 10 and 11.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf

Any chance of a pic of the inside of the unit? If yours lines up with the 8525-III wiring diagram on page 10 then the relay is powering the motor and the T stat is sending the coil on the relay the power to pull in the relay.

If you have a newer unit, then the PC board is running the show. Here is a 8525-IV DCLP






Does your look like anything in the pics I posted here?

3 basics steps then to dig deeper.

1. Does the unit have 12 volts DC at the main power terminals at the furnace?

2. The question is going to be is the T stat signal actually getting to the furnace? You can unhook the T stat wires and jumper the T stat signal down at the furnace and see it it runs. Or do a volt check on the T stat terminal at the furnace. Once you have proved that the t Stat signal is present, then need to start digging into the motor control.

3. The motor is 12 VDC. It is only 2 wires and you can hot wire it. Find the 2 wires on the motor. One is DC ground, the other the hot wire. It will go to the motor relay or the PC board pending what vintage you have. Do not get confuse with the sail switch wires, make sure the leads go to a power relay of some type. The sail switch wires come out of the blower housing that "looks" like the end of the motor. Need to find the motor windings. To check for open circuit, do an ohm check on the motor. It should have some level of resistance through the windings. If it is an open circuit, that is problem 1. If it has some resistance, Un plug it from the relay or relay on the PC board and hot wire it. It should run.

If the motor runs, then need to back into what is holding out the motor control.

A picture of what you have will help. I will see if I can find an older manual.

What Mainah stated on the blower is correct. It 1st runs to purge and then a post purge to get ride of excess heat and any gas. If the motor does not run you will not get much else to start. The blower pressure has a saftey in it through a sail switch to even allow the gas valve to turn on. No blower or not strong enough of a blower pressure not much else is allowed to work.

Good luck and hope this helps.

John

PS Check for lizards.... LOL I never would of guessed that one.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2012, 03:59 AM   #5
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
Mine looks like pics 1 & 2. I'll check all that out maybe this coming weekend if I get a chance, it's a little to dark out at 5pm when I get home from work.

Just trying to get the heat working so once hunting season is over (and the holidays) I can start my list of to repairs and mods. A little heat would be nice in early spring and fall trips too.
__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2012, 06:34 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
mainah is an unknown quantity at this point
If it tests bad Ignitor Board Index page they make really nice stuff I think the stock board only strikes once and the Dinosaur boards try 3 times to light some of the newer ones will even turn off the fan if it does'nt light. I have used two of them and both work flawlessly.
__________________
mainah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2012, 07:06 AM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 32
SUN #3913
Jack is an unknown quantity at this point
I did not read that you tested the wall thermostat as suggested, when my heater did not work, it was repaired with a simple replacement of the wall thermostat with a Honewell setback home thermostat. Jack
__________________
Jack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2012, 04:09 AM   #8
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
When I was trying to figure out why my ac and heat didn't work in Sept. I started off by putting in a new thermostat.
No time to work on it this weekend. My pellet stove died. So when I went to look at new ones I decided to go with a wood stove. That changed my plans of hunting and working on the camper. To cutting and hauling fire wood.
__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 09:10 AM   #9
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
The relay that is mounted to the top/side of the blower motor. Can just that be replaced? Sitting in a snow bank today playing with it. I've volt tested everything in there with 13 volts in all connections. On that relay if I jump the top wire which is hot to the bottom that goes to the motor it fires right up. I turned the gas on jump the wire and she fired up.

So I guess I'm at the point of. Is it my board not telling the relay to make contact? Or is the relay no good?

Thanks,
Jay
__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 12:09 PM   #10
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay View Post
The relay that is mounted to the top/side of the blower motor. Can just that be replaced? Sitting in a snow bank today playing with it. I've volt tested everything in there with 13 volts in all connections. On that relay if I jump the top wire which is hot to the bottom that goes to the motor it fires right up. I turned the gas on jump the wire and she fired up.

So I guess I'm at the point of. Is it my board not telling the relay to make contact? Or is the relay no good?

Thanks,
Jay
H'mm OK I had to re-read the post to bring myself back up to speed on where you are at. At this point, if the hot wire to the motor with the T stat on, gas on, and she fired up: we know what is OK. the Blower motor, the gas valve, the control board, the sail switch, the over temp switch and the T stat

See page 10 and 11 for the wiring diagram. 85 series III

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf

I do not know your series and I have no pics of the setup. Got any?

Just reading the 8500 series III diagram, the 12 volt control signal comes from the T stat. It fires the blower relay and then also powers the sail switch in series with the over temp switch on the way to powering the ignition board.

Since you hot wired the motor with the T stat on, once the sail switch made, the control board became active and purge timer started and soon fired the gas valve and the ignition and all is working. Great!

Do I have this right? I'm just reading the wiring diagram. You have to look for this in the furnace.

If so this points to the relay is bad OR the red hot high power wire feed to the relay for the motor is bad or a ground problem or terminal corrosion. I do not know where you hot wired the motor from. To check the relay try this,

1. Turn T stat on.

2. Do a volt check on the relay pin from the incoming power source to the relay contact. This should be a red feed wire from the circuit breaker on/off switch. If you have 12 volts there then high amp power "to" the relay is good.

3. Also the T stat control signal wire to the relay coil should be hot. This means you have control signal power to the coil. if not check for corrosion on the pins. When the T stat just comes on, you should hear a faint click if all is working from the relay. Maybe toggle the power switch at the furnace unless you have a helper to toggle the T stat. If no click, keep going digging some more.

4. On the relay coil there should be a ground wire. The diagram shows yellow. Is that ground any good? If not the relay coil will not work. Do an ohm check from a good ground to the relay coil pin for DC common

5. If you made it to this point, the relay should be energized and the contacts closed. Now do a 12 volts on the contact pin on the red wire heading to the motor when the T stat is on. You should have power at the outgoing pin. If not, the contacts inside as burnt open or the relay coil is dead.

Your close. This points to a bad relay inside, a bad ground on the relay coil, corrosion on the coil signal T stat wire pin trying to turn the relay on or the high amp power wire to the relay contact that runs the motor.

Good luck and stay warm in that snow bank....

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 12:19 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
mainah is an unknown quantity at this point
I would not bypass anything other then a test it sounds like some thing in the proofing chain is not satisfied. I'm going to say the thermostat closes the relay then supplies the fan, sail switch and over temp the end of the chain goes to the ignitor board it then decides when to open the gas valve and fire the spark. One terminal on the thermostat (they should be marked R and W for heat) should read 12 v to ground the other one should have 12 volts also when there is a call for heat.
__________________
mainah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 12:23 PM   #12
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay View Post
So I guess I'm at the point of. Is it my board not telling the relay to make contact? Or is the relay no good?

Thanks,
Jay
The board does not tell the motor to run if the diagram I linked matches your unit. The T stat fires the relay on. The relay switches the high power to run the motor. Need to sort out the relay as I listed above
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 12:36 PM   #13
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
H'mm

After reading Mainah's note, on page 10 and 11 there is 85-III local sense and 85-III remote sense. Do not know the difference but the color codes appear different for the motor and relay coil ground.

We also do not know if the relay is 1 or 2 contacts. Cannot tell from the limited diagram they give. The sail switch could be powered by a contact of the relay or just tied in with the T stat feed. They do not give enough detail.

If we knew where and how you jumped the motor hot from where and to where it might help.

Regardless, it points to the relay not energizing the motor power.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 01:22 PM   #14
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
Ill have to bring the computer out with me and check it out. For today I give up! Everytime I touch this trailer it's a nightmare and I'm getting frustrated. So for now I'm heading up to the sugar house to gather sap and boil for the night.

Thanks for all the help so far. I may just drop it off at a rv repair shop soon.
Jay
__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 01:30 PM   #15
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Your doing good. Your close.

When the frustration settles.... some pics of the relay can help. Especially if there brand model number on it and ideally a wiring diagram of the pin out. Odds are high we can find the relay on line with pin out and all. Odds are high Atwood does not make the relay, they spend a few bucks and wire it in.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 03:44 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
mainah is an unknown quantity at this point
It's set up a little different the some of the other heaters the tstat turns on the relay (more load then the tstst can handle with the fan motor involved) then the board deals with the proofing chain down stream from the relay coil, runs the timer opens the gas valve and lights. First thing you'll need to do is determine if the thermostat works. The relay carries the heavy load the thermostat closes the relay, one side of the relay coil is grounded the other side is feed from the thermostat the contacts carry the load of the motor. There should be 4 terminals two with heavy wires two with lighter ones the two lighter ones are coil wires for the relay one is a ground the other goes to the thermostat. If all the voltages are good a standard Bosch 4 terminal relay from an auto parts store should fix your problem.
__________________
mainah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2013, 04:18 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
mainah is an unknown quantity at this point
OK I had a look at the wiring. The relay won't close until it gets a command from the thermostat. The key is the red and white wires. The red wire needs to have 12 volts to ground, when there is a call for heat the white becomes 12 volts to ground and closes the relay. It is looped to the proofing chain at the relay and tells the controller there is heat needed. So if you test between the white wire and the other smaller wire on the relay when there is a call for heat you should read 12 volts. If there is no voltage check the thermostat wiring should be marked R and W for heating the red supplies the voltage the white turns on the relay. If all is good the relay is toes up. I going to guess your thermostat is a cool/heat type so I would have a look there fist and make sure the wiring is correct.
__________________
mainah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2013, 04:29 AM   #18
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
So here's a quick update.. After taking everything apart last Sat. I was playing around for a little bit before I headed up to the sugar house. I re-volt tested everything again, but this time I took the bunk back apart. I volt tested one of the blue wires that goes to a tstat wire. I got to thinking if ones dead and the other has power then everything should work. I took my jumper wire and jumped the two. The blower ran it's cycle, saw no gas and shut off.
Weird I thought.. At that point my tinker time was up..
Monday night I awoke from a dead sleep and was thinking about it.. If there is power at the red Tstat wire just outside of the furnace. Shouldn't it have power (13.06 volts) all the way back to the new control board in the ac unit? So last night I went out for a few min. No voltage at control board.

When I get a chance one day this week I'm gonna stop and grab a length of Tstat wire and just run it from the furnace to the board (like a big jumper wire). If that makes it run right it looks like my new task will be running a new wire from the ac unit to the furnace.

Thoughts? Am I sniffing closer now? Is it possible to have a junk Tstat wire from ac to furnace?

Thanks again,
Jay
__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2013, 06:03 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
mainah is an unknown quantity at this point
Yes you are on the right track. Remove the t stat and test it there first if there is a demand for heat both terminals (wires) should read battery voltage. If it's a heating/cooling thermostat the wiring is different than a just heat so make sure it is wired correctly. More often than not if wiring has not been disturbed it should be fine a big problem in something that lives outside of course it critters chewing on wires.
__________________
mainah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2013, 07:15 AM   #20
Jay
Senior Member
 
Jay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 114
SUN #4376
Jay is an unknown quantity at this point
There is no power at the thermostat or even at the control board in the ac unit. It does and has spent it's whole life outside. Ill prob have time this Sat to work some more. Ill do an update with what I find.
__________________

__________________
2009 F-250 CC Long Bed
2014 Remington 2650RBD
1999 Sunline Saturn T 26 C Traded in.. and will be missed
1979 GMC C-15 Sierra Classic
1930 Ford Model A
Jay is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
need help with heat benjaminzys Repairs and Maintenance 2 09-17-2012 06:14 AM
heat blower motor roempty Sunline Travel Trailers 9 10-08-2011 04:36 AM
turning on heat roempty Sunline Travel Trailers 2 09-07-2011 04:45 PM
LP Heat in 87 Satellite!! no heat! kathleenbas Sunline Travel Trailers 5 10-12-2010 06:00 PM
Portable heat PITBOX Modifications 8 02-14-2010 03:09 PM


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:51 AM.


×