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Old 09-05-2024, 09:26 AM   #1
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Need to replace hot water pressure relief valve?

So, I've been living in my 1996 T-36SS-B for three years now and pretty much everything has broken except the hot water heater. Guess what? This morning, the hot water heater started spraying water. Up through yesterday I had nice hot water. I'm hoping it's just the pressure relief valve that needs replacing. My owner's book says I have an Atwood model G6A-7. Do anyone know which valve amazon sells that would fit? I've watched a YouTube video on how to replace it, so I think I can handle it OK.

Thanks for your time!
Melissa
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Old 09-06-2024, 07:21 PM   #2
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Hi Melissa,

Here is what you asked for,

If your heater is the original, back then, they used 1/2" NPT threaded relief valves, which would be this one. Atwood-91604-Relief-Valve

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91604-.../dp/B000N9PRKG

If, by chance, someone replaced the heater with a newer heater before you acquired it, then they are 3/4" NPT threaded relief valves. Atwood (90028 ) 3/4" Relief Valve
https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-90028-.../dp/B00PXJRSWG

You can look at the pics of the two sizes and see that where it screws into the heater; the valve looks different, and the 1/2" size tapers down from the body of the relief valve to screw into the heater. The larger 3/4" one is more straight. The 2007 model Sunlines, made in 2006, came with the larger 3/4" size valves. There may also be some 2006 models with both sizes pending when the exact change dates and new stock come from Atwood. 2006 model Sunlines were made in both 2005 and 2006.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 09-06-2024, 07:54 PM   #3
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Now too, why did water start spraying all over?

There are a few reasons, and since you have been living in the camper for three years full-time, that can add to another reason.

The water heater relief goes off when the tank pressure or temperature exceeds the strength of the spring inside the relief valve. If the relief valve weeps water out for a really long time, then the spring can get weaker. You can tell if the weeping problem has been going on by a lot of whiteish minerals caked up on the relief valve discharge port and running down all over everything under the discharge port.

Does your heater have a lot of white stuff under the valve? Pictures here help.

There are other reasons the valve can start blowing water: the water is too hot due to a few things like heavy scale build-up inside the heater or a T stat not working right in the heater. The heavy scale buildup inside the heater creates heat insulation from the T stat reading the correct tank temp. You can verify this by measuring the water temp coming out of a faucet with a meat thermometer in the water stream. 140 deg F is standard, if it gets in the 160 and above, that is not normal, and something is not working right due to a faulty T stat or heavy buildup in the tank

If the water is hotter than usual combined with the air cushion in the heater being dissolved (that air cushion dissolves all the time) there is no more room for the water's thermal expansion to go other than tripping the safety relief valve into a weep, not a blast, when the expansion pressure builds too high. The weeping I talked about above comes from the air cushion being gone, and the heater on all the time can aggravate the problem since these RV heaters have no good thermal expansion system like a house does.

You can/should change the valve, especially if there is a lot of white stuff in its outlet. It needs to be changed, but there are still other issues to be addressed. The new valve can have the same problem, just a lot quicker.

Tell us more about weeping and white stuff if you see it and leave the heater on or even most of the time. Post a pic. Full-timers in a camper have some different issues than folks who only camp on weekends a few times a year. The problems are the same; they show up faster under full-time camping/living, as the heater is used more.

My goal is to help you identify and address any potential issues with your water heater. Remember, a relief valve spraying water indicates something isn't right. When everything is functioning as it should, the relief valve should never spray or weep.

I hope this helps

John
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Old 09-12-2024, 09:58 AM   #4
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Hi John,
Thanks for your input -- absolutely invaluable, as usual. Yes, I had lots of white stuff on both the pressure relief valve and the outlet stopper. I've replaced both and now I'm trying to figure out how to orient the 3-way bypass valves to refill the water heater. I have two valves, each of which can turn all 3 ways. Both of the valves are able to dump water out below. But, I don't know which way to position them to refill the tank and allow hot water circulation. Can you help?
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Old 09-12-2024, 10:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melissaburn View Post
Hi John,
Thanks for your input -- absolutely invaluable, as usual. Yes, I had lots of white stuff on both the pressure relief valve and the outlet stopper. I've replaced both and now I'm trying to figure out how to orient the 3-way bypass valves to refill the water heater. I have two valves, each of which can turn all 3 ways. Both of the valves are able to dump water out below. But, I don't know which way to position them to refill the tank and allow hot water circulation. Can you help?
Hi Melissa,

In these cases, a picture is worth a million words. Can you post a few pics of the back of your heater and the valves you are talking about?

Also, could you confirm that your camper is a 1996 model? Sunline changed the brand of valves they used, and I need to know what brand you have because I can't see them. The different brands had different ways to open/close them.

If you see this and can get pics up quickly, that can help. I'll post some more in the next response.
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Old 09-12-2024, 11:53 AM   #6
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In the essence of time, I will go out on a limb here and guess what you have based on the words you used based on other Sunline friends I have helped with their 1996 camper.

In the 1996 camper I helped a buddy with, Sunline used clear/translucent PEX tubing and white Flair-IT brand 90-degree quarter turn and 180-degree turn valves that look like this.



There were 3 different types depending on the purpose needed.

When you stated
Quote:
" I've replaced both and now I'm trying to figure out how to orient the 3-way bypass valves to refill the water heater. I have two valves, each of which can turn all 3 ways. Both of the valves are able to dump water out below. But, I don't know which way to position them to refill the tank and allow hot water circulation."
You mentioned 2 valves that can turn 3 ways and let water out below. Those 2 valves "sound" like the low point drains. They are not part of the water water heater bypass, but they can be part of how to drain water out of the piping to allow the safety relief valve to be changed.

See this pic. In this case, Sunline uses blue and red PEX piping for hot and cold water but still the white Flair-It valves.

You are referring to this low-point drain setup. These valves will turn 180 degrees and feel like. They have 3 positions. Technically they are called a 3 position valve as you can select the water flow 3 ways. The short blue tubes go through the floor and drain under the camper.


While the white nuts are off the valves, this is a top shot of the valves' hot and cold low-point drains in the pic that show the pipe going through the floor.


Sunline also created low point drains, again pending floor plan, using the 3-position valve (rotated 180 degrees). See the blue piping. And a 2-position valve that only had on/off, a 90-degree turn valve, and the drain tube went down through the floor. See the red pipe


Now, on the 3 positions, 180-degree low point drain valve, which way is normal flow?

See this write up that is part of a winterizing file I created for a Sunline friend that has the combo of valves.


The blue arrow is the normal water flow direction in the bottom picture with the blue piping—the white valve lever points in the opposite direction of the normal flow. Normal flow means that water comes from the pump or city water inlet (the source) to the inlet port of the valve and leaves (flows through) the valve to go to the outlet port on the valve to supply water to faucets, water heater etc.

You will have to look at your piping and figure out which end of the piping is coming from the water pump or city water feed, as that is the source of the normal water flow. Then, flip the white lever, which seems to be pointing backward to the source of the flow. That lever position allows water to go straight through the valve and shuts off the water to go out the bottom of the camper.

Here is the semi standard way Sunline in the mid 90's did the water heater bypass and all the way up through the 2007 campers.


Please take a look at the yellow arrow. That is the bypass valve, which only turns 90 degrees. The white handle is pointing parallel to the blue water supply pipe and to the water supply from the pump, etc. That is the heater's normal position to allow water to fill the heater.

To bypass the heater, flip the white lever straight up vertically, and the lever will point towards the top. That switches the water to bypass the water supply to fill the water heater.

If your camper has those valves, the above will get you going. If, for some reason, your water is pouring out on the ground from the low-point drains, then flip the one valve the water is coming out of 180 degrees. Sometimes, the valve can be installed backward.

Let us know how you make out.

John
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