LP regulator??

Draughty · 09-22-2018, 05:56 PM

Just curious when one should consider replacing the dual tank regulator?
What do I look for in a replacement?
What are signs it needs replacing?
Any tips??
Thanks!!

**JohnB** · 09-22-2018, 06:54 PM

See here for how to test the regulator. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...cks-10981.html

If you do not want to make a manometer, or buy one, you can buy a gas gage what will read down in the inches of water range. Dwyer makes them. See here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As to what to replace it with, here are a few choices where to buy. Being in Canada you may have other options cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/MARSH-EXCEL-M...70_&dpSrc=srch

The cover
https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Exce...54S3BNF5NTEADF

Or here even cheaper but have to add freight.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Marsh...-p/66-9377.htm

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Autom...-p/06-0452.htm

Hope this helps

John

**JohnB** · 09-22-2018, 07:01 PM

As to when to replace, a test is the only good way to know other then if you are having gas supply issues, not enough gas or too much or you smell it leaking at the tanks. Holes in the diaphragm seal can cause that.

I had one of these RV LP regulators go bad on our T2499 when it was 3 years old. It would send too much pressure upon high gas demand. Found it with the LP gas test I linked you.

On our T310SR, that regulator is now 14 years old and still works OK.

These RV regulators are not made heavy duty like a regulator you use in your home that can last about a life time. They are made cheap and unrepairable. They are throw away regulators when they do not work.

mainah · 09-23-2018, 07:38 AM

They are cheap just replace it. Depending on age it also may be a single stage regulator the new one will be a 2 stage. It maybe a good ideal to replace the tank lines at the same time the whole deal around $30.

Draughty · 09-23-2018, 11:47 AM

Ok...glad to know how to test and I will do some of that but since I occasionally get a sniff when turning the tanks on and off but not when they are on full time I'm thinking just replace!
The setup I've found is as shown..price seems good considering it's Canadian and free shipping.
My next question is this, I'd like to replace the flex supply line going from the regulator to the hard line. Is this readily available? A bit confusing with what I have seen available so far....looks like the outlet on the regulator is 3/8..can I be safe in guessing that the hard line is also 3/8?
It was built in 1999 if that helps...Screenshot_20180923-133201~01.jpg Screenshot_20180923-133228~01.jpg Screenshot_20180923-134439~01.jpg

johnnybgood · 09-23-2018, 02:39 PM

The braided hose you show won’t work. You’ll need one with a male end to go into the regulator.

I replaced mine last year and didn’t have any luck finding a braided line. The one I bought was from www.etrailer.com

https://www.etrailer.com/Propane/MB-...83-48-MBS.html

You might want to double check the length and fitting sizes for your camper. The hoses are available in different lengths. My link is going from my memory and you know how that goes.

As far as the regulator goes, I personally like the auto changeover ones that have the window that can be seen without removing the tank covers.
Assuming you have the tank covers with a lid at the top.

Image1537735134.747806.jpg

Draughty · 09-23-2018, 02:56 PM

Yes my tank cover has a flip up lid.
Not sure what the window does?
Sorry for my ignorance but that's unfamiliar to me...
You're right I'd have to add a double male adapter to make that hose work. Missed that!
Might be worth it to get the braided line??? Hmm...????

Draughty · 09-23-2018, 03:00 PM

Ok this one has an indicator under that switch? Not sure what the lever/switch is there to do when it's an auto change valve?
Am I missing something?Screenshot_20180923-165815~01.jpg

mainah · 09-23-2018, 03:39 PM

That's way fancy more than you really need. just remove the hose and wave in front of someone's face at the RV store they will go and fetch you one.

Draughty · 09-23-2018, 03:45 PM

LOL...yeah I bet they will!

johnnybgood · 09-23-2018, 03:45 PM

The auto changeovers work like this..

You start off with 2 full tanks.
You turn the selector to which ever tank you want to draw from first.
When the window shows red, the tank you started with is empty and your now drawing from the second tank.
You move the selector to the opposite position.
You then take off your empty tank and refill/replace.

Did that make sense?

johnnybgood · 09-23-2018, 03:49 PM

A stainless steel braided gas line would be nice. You probably don’t want 6 feet of it though. Or maybe you do?

I had to replace my rubber one recently due to a mouse chewing through it. Apparently it’s not that uncommon.

Draughty · 09-23-2018, 03:51 PM

Yes... I haven't noticed a selector on my current old regulator...
As per Mainah that Flame King might be fancy but the price isn't bad for Canada... about $35USD to compare...

Draughty · 09-23-2018, 03:52 PM

Yeah I think 6 feet is pretty long but I like braided ...wear and chew resistance is a good reason!

enormiss · 09-23-2018, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Draughty

Not sure what the lever/switch is there to do when it's an auto change valve? Am I missing something?

Not missing anything, more like deceptive advertising LoL

mgebo · 09-23-2018, 04:37 PM

check the reviews on the Flame King regulator and hose assy. I just went through this my self and decided on another brand , more money but better quality . You don't want trouble with you gas supply while traveling .

mainah · 09-23-2018, 05:19 PM

I leave the valve closed on one tank if I run out of gas I just turn the other tank on then fill the empty one and wait until the other one runs out. If I think it should be running low I just pour some hot water on the tank and quickly know where the liquid line is.

johnnybgood · 09-23-2018, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainah

I leave the valve closed on one tank if I run out of gas I just turn the other tank on then fill the empty one and wait until the other one runs out. If I think it should be running low I just pour some hot water on the tank and quickly know where the liquid line is.

That makes sense. At least you know you have one full bottle of gas when the first one runs out.

If you didn’t check the auto changeover color often enough you might end up with no gas!

**JohnB** · 09-23-2018, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Draughty

Ok...glad to know how to test and I will do some of that but since I occasionally get a sniff when turning the tanks on and off but not when they are on full time I'm thinking just replace!
The setup I've found is as shown..price seems good considering it's Canadian and free shipping.
My next question is this, I'd like to replace the flex supply line going from the regulator to the hard line. Is this readily available? A bit confusing with what I have seen available so far....looks like the outlet on the regulator is 3/8..can I be safe in guessing that the hard line is also 3/8?
It was built in 1999 if that helps...Attachment 5712 Attachment 5713 Attachment 5714

A few things.

Unless you have something special on your camper, the main gas line is 1/2" NPT black iron pipe. And the end of the pipe the low pressure hose screws on needs to be 1/2" NPT female.

Since the hard pipe main gas line has no swivel on it or the hose screwing onto the NPT, "ideally" you have a swivel fitting and adapter on the regulator.

This pic sort of cuts it off but there is a brass 3/8" male NPT fitting screwed in the bottom of the regulator that then adapts to a male swivel flare . The hose then has a swivel female end to fit the male swivel fitting and a 1/2" NPT female non swivel on the other end. This LP gas rated hose is usually a 5 psi hose.

If you do not have the swivel at the regulator, you are going to have to wind up the regulator to tighten the NPT fitting.

The Flame King regulator you linked may have a large problem. It says this

Quote:

Inlets are 1/4" SAE inverted flare and outlet is 3/8" NPT female pipe thread. Rated for 30,000 BTU

There is a large problem if that 30,000 BTU is the max capacity of the regulator. You cannot run the furnace, the water heater, stove and fridge on gas at the same time if the regulator is that low a capacity.

The Marshall regulator I linked you to has a 150,000 BTU rating when in the auxiliary tank and 225,000 BTU on the primary.

That FLame king you linked is $39.99 US https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...d=UE5FQ11PGHGR

Man, that is real cheap for the green nut ACME fittings , high pressure pigtail hoses and a 2 stage regulator. I would question how good it really is.

Hope this helps

John

**JohnB** · 09-23-2018, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Draughty

Ok...glad to know how to test and I will do some of that but since I occasionally get a sniff when turning the tanks on and off but not when they are on full time I'm thinking just replace!

I forgot you said this.

That gas smell may not be the regulator.

On the tank valve, the valve stem can have a packing leak. When you crack open the tank valve, that stem packing seal is then under full tank pressure. Sometimes they leak badly from a worn stem seal. If you keep opening the valve all the way until it stops turning, there is a secondary seal inside the valve that will seal off the leak.

Due to learning this, I now always open the tank valve all the way to maximum so the secondary seal takes over as the that one does not seem to wear out like the stem seal does.

There is normally no provision to service that stem seal or the secondary seal. You are left with replacing the entire tank valve.

If the regulator has a diaphragm leak (it happens) to let gas out and smell, normally they leak all the time, not just when you have the valve part way open.

Hope this helps

John