LP gas detector and solenoid

Dman · 07-15-2022, 06:55 PM

Hi,

I recently purchased a 2005 Sunline Solaris T267SR and some of the research I have done said that every trailer is equipped with an LP gas detector. I have searched high and low (haha I understand the LP gas detector will be near the floor ) and the only area I can find where it would or should be it is missing. I located an area under the dinette where there is a open hole in the bench seat and two wires (Red and Black) that go to nothing. I also remember from a previous trailer that when the power was shut off that was the last thing to turn off and make any noise from the trailer. This trailer does not do that.

Can anyone recommend a LP gas detector that is supposed to be in this trailer?

While trying to do research on LP gas detector it was also mentioned that there is a LP gas solenoid. I am guessing when the detector recognizes a problem it shuts off the solenoid? I have tested the gas stove and it works fine with no LP gas issues. Does the solenoid also have to replaced?

I have also attached a couple of pictures.

Thanks

BenB · 07-18-2022, 03:32 PM

Hi Dman,

You have found where the original propane detector was, Sunline put most under the dinette if the model had one. The original detector would have been made by Atwood, they made replacements for a while that were close to the same size and could be fit with some minor trimming. Unfortunately they are no longer produced. You might be able to find a new one someone has leftover stock, but the detectors are supposed the be replaced 5-6 years from the manufacturer date, it's been a few years since they have been made.

With all that said we have replaced several with the Safe T Alert style. Below is a link, they also offer a combo propane and carbon monoxide detector. The downside is the size is very different from the original Atwood so the hole in the dinette is to tall and not wide enough. We have had extra paneling that matched the dinette sides from rebuilds so we could make a new dinette side panel with the new size. A nice piece of wood paneling in a similar color could be used to make a new trim piece around the detector.

The mounting is the hard part, wiring is simple, just connect the new detector to the old wires. I suggest removing the fuse in the electrical panel before making the connections, it with have its own fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Alert-Tr...22756686&psc=1

Dman · 07-18-2022, 06:43 PM

OK thanks for the information I will look at ordering this and reply with any further questions or issues. I just wanted to make sure I was doing it right and used the right parts.

Thanks.
Derek

**JohnB** · 07-18-2022, 09:48 PM

Hi Derek,

I'll add some to what Ben B posted. I made it back to my PC with pictures and was preparing this when I saw his post.

Dometic bought out Atwood Mobile when they went out of business and started to offer the Atwood style LP alarms but upgraded. I was able to buy some about 4 years ago that fit into the older Atwood slot. That seemed to be short lived and finding the latest upgraded version in the last year from Dometic does not seem to be for sale. I'm not sure if it a supply issue or not.

There are the new Dometic ones on their website.
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...fety-solutions

This particular one would fit in the old hole.
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...detector-19503

With not being able to find any Dometic new ones for sale, we changed to MTI Industries. These folks, their brand is Safe T Alert. MTI makes the Safe T Alert brand Ben B linked. As he stated they offer them in a combo LP and CO alarm or only a LP alarm. in black, white and tan colors

The series 30 LP only alarm
https://www.mtiindustries.com/produc...s-flush-mount/

The series 35 combo LP & CO alarm
https://www.mtiindustries.com/produc...s-flush-mount/

They are made in the USA while the Dometic that I used to be able to buy where made off shore.

We have 4 of this brand in use now. Two have the combo LP/CO alarms and the other 2 have the LP only alarm. Online reviews have shown others have reported the combo unit with the CO alarm can trip the sensor to go off when using certain cleaners. And I have found this to be true also while cleaning in a camper I was repairing with a new combo unit installed. It is not all cleaners, but some depends how concentrated the cleaner was next to the sensor.

In my campers I use a Kidde combo smoke and CO alarm on the ceiling. These came about when we only had the LP only alarm. For folks who already had the CO alarm, I installed the LP only alarm until I can sort out more on the LP/CO cleaner situation.

As I said, I have 2 of the combo units now installed and will call it, in testing. So far there are no issues. I have one in my own camper to test it in real use to see I find issues with it before I install more. The testing of the combo unit is limited to only 1.5 months as of today. It will get heavy use in the next few months. The LP only alarm also working OK have been in use about 5 months with no issues. These alarms have been around a long time, I'm only reporting my direct testing on them. There other brands, I cannot speak to their quality or where they are made.

Amazon and other RV places do offer the MTI Safe T Alert products. It is a well established product.

On the mounting, here are a few pics of wall mount one, if you choose to do this in you dinette, it could work there to.

This is what your old one looked like

How the old one hooked up

Since the MTI size is very different, I cut out the wall board and made a 1/8" luan plywood cover from matching Sunline 2004 wall board. You can use what ever you have to work with. This is thin wall board, do not overtighten the screws or it will strip out the wood. The same as the Sunline mounting in many places.

The outside wall only gave me 1 3/4" to work in before hitting the siding.

The MTI 30 or 35 series is 1 3/16" deep so it fit well in the wall cavity

Here is the wall and cover cut out.

The cover plate cut out. It has to be wider then the opening in the wall to cover.

Mounting holes drilled

Test fit over hole

The Safety Alert mounted and wired to the cover plate

Installed

A close up of the wording of the series 35 combo unit

A heads up, in your power converter, there is a separate fuse only for the LP detector. Since the prior owner pulled out your unit and left the wires hanging, it may have blown that fuse. Check yours before working on it.

The LP detector circuit is live all the time the power converter is on or the battery is turned on. There is no on/off switch for the LP detector.

I went into some background on this as there is no Sunline left now that does not have an outdated LP alarm if it has not been replaced. It is often a forgotten device. The older ones installed in the Sunline never had an end of life detection, the MTI ones we are talking about do have the end of life alarm feature. Many of the newer LP detectors across the brands are now starting to print in the instructions or on the device, they have a limited life. Years ago we never saw it. Five years appears to be close to the average life now a days.

Here are 2 pics of the Safety Alert installed like yours in the dinette bench.

A 2006 T276SR in black

A 2007 T289SR in black

And, the is no LP solenoid in your camper gas system as built from Sunline. There is no alarm device inside the camper to shut down the LP gas if a leak inside is detected. Motorhomes "might" have a special requirement for the solenoid as I am not sure if they are required. I myself have not seen a shut down solenoid/alarm in a travel trailer or 5th wheel. There is an excess flow check valve at the main LP tank in your vintage camper that will kick in and extremely restrict LP flow if a large gas line or leak occurs. Like a blown gas line or gas valve. This is modern day safety feature inside all plastic screw on right-hand thread tank hose connection nuts, even your BBQ grill has these now.

Hope this helps.

John

Edit 7-23-22 Fixed the typo for correct atomic number for carbon monoxide to CO

barcoboy · 07-21-2022, 10:44 AM

Hi everyone.

I just went through this dilemma not long ago needing to replace the Atwood Protechtor propane detector in my 2005 Sunline T-2499. I eventually settled on the RV Safe RVCOLP-2W combination propane/carbon monoxide detector. I read that it comes with two mounting plates and the company claimed it is supposed to be "retrofittable with virtually any surface or flush mount propane gas detectors". Turns out they were right in this case at least. The taller of the two mounting plates covered up the entire hole where the Atwood detector used to be, and I didn't have to do any wood working whatsoever. Really simple to mount as well... the plate mounts with two screws, and then the detector mounts to the plate with two more screws.

https://rvsafealarm.com/product/rvalarm/

https://rvsafealarm.com/files/RVSafe_InfoSheet.pdf

**JohnB** · 07-22-2022, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barcoboy

Hi everyone.

I just went through this dilemma not long ago needing to replace the Atwood Protechtor propane detector in my 2005 Sunline T-2499. I eventually settled on the RV Safe RVCOLP-2W combination propane/carbon monoxide detector. I read that it comes with two mounting plates and the company claimed it is supposed to be "retrofittable with virtually any surface or flush mount propane gas detectors". Turns out they were right in this case at least. The taller of the two mounting plates covered up the entire hole where the Atwood detector used to be, and I didn't have to do any wood working whatsoever. Really simple to mount as well... the plate mounts with two screws, and then the detector mounts to the plate with two more screws.

https://rvsafealarm.com/product/rvalarm/

https://rvsafealarm.com/files/RVSafe_InfoSheet.pdf

Hi barcoby,

Thank you for posting this info.

It looks to be a good option. It appears to stick out more then the flush mounted ones, but they seem to make the adapter plate to have something trying to be caught on it, slip past rather then grab onto it. For those who can accept the extra thickness of the unit and not have to create a custom mount, this appears to be an option. Each floor plan mounts these LP detectors in a somewhat different location, but all are close to the stove.

Here is the manual for it, https://rvsafealarm.com/files/RVSafe_Manual.pdf

Off the main RV Safe site. https://rvsafealarm.com/product/rvalarm/

It appears the units are designed and assembled here in the US. This is a good step to have the end product quality checks locally by the main manufacture.

This is a fairly new offering, it seems they founded the RV Safe system in 2017, from the "About us" on their website. While new, it has been out long enough they should have found any issues with the design.

Thanks

John

Torskdoc423 · 07-23-2022, 06:37 AM

JohnB; Hate to bust yer chops in your post (which is excellent otherwise), but CARBON MONOXIDE is CO, not CO2.

For EVERYONE:

Both CO & CO2 are deadly but go about it in different ways. Hemoglobin in your blood absorbs and carries the Oxygen, but it has an absolute affinity for CO that is 60 times greater than for Oxygen.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) on the other hand is a straight Asphyxiant. It's great for putting out fires in open areas preferably (as it displaces oxygen and helps remove heat), cooling beer and other drinks.

In both cases removal to fresh air is mandated. In a trailer, if the person is within arms reach of the door(you being outside) pull them out and lay on ground upwind of the trailer. OPEN ALL DOORS. DO NOT ENTER Trailer or you'll more than likely end up a victim. Let FIRE/EMS with SCBA's remove any others inside. They will also track down source, make it safe and ventilate the bejesus out of the trailer.

Larry

**JohnB** · 07-23-2022, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Torskdoc423

JohnB; Hate to bust yer chops in your post (which is excellent otherwise), but CARBON MONOXIDE is CO, not CO2. Larry

Hi Larry,

Yes, you are correct. Thanks for picking up on my goof/typo. I'll fix it. Seems I must of had CO2 on the brain.

And yes, I know about the two different gases. I had the early onset of CO poisoning many years ago, (young and not so smart), loading apples into a cold storage with a gasoline powered fork lift. The lift truck had too much exhaust for the very enclosed storage space. My real bad headache told me I was starting to get in trouble as I went from fresh air outside, into the cold storage, (not a vented space). I caught myself before the issue got real bad. Needless to say, we never used that particular lift truck again in the cold storage.

I will go fix my goof. Thanks again.

John