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Old 04-23-2009, 09:23 AM   #1
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 34
SUN #637
Looking for some advice on a non-functioning Water Heater

The Water Heater in our 2004 T-2199 Sunline isn't functioning the way that it should. I've tried it on both Gas and Electric and it seems to do somewhat different things in each mode.

In the Electric mode after about an hour of being turned on we get a small spurt of warm water after running the tap for about 3 minutes, and then its back to cold. I can't really explain that.

Thinking that perhaps there is some issue with the electric heating element I figured I would try the gas side. This one gets me nothing. No clunk from the Solenoid valve, no click from the electric ignition, no hiss of gas being released and definitely no glorious whoosh of the burner firing up. I've looked over the flue and don't see anything that is blocking it. I've traced the gas line back and it does not have a separate shutoff from the main tanks and I've run the stove and furnace to make sure that the gas lines are primed.

Any help would be appreciated on this since I'm kind of our of ideas. I dug through the forum last night and did find a pretty detailed technical troubleshooting guide for 2004 Atwood WHs and I've gone through that also.

Also hoping people can help me with a couple of questions. First - I believe that the red light in the rocker switch for the LP Water Heater should go off when the gas ignites. Is that correct? Does the same apply to the Electric water heater? Second - Does anyone know if the ECO and Electric Element are on the back of the tanks? If so has anyone pulled their water heater to replace them? Our 2199 is small enough that I cannot get access to the back of the water heater without pulling it since the sidewalls of the compartment are both under the bed and tight enough that you can really only get the the winterizations bypass valve.

Thanks for the help on this, and I've included some pictures here to show what our system looks like. (I had some problems getting these pictures to show up correctly since they are in Google's Picasa. I think they work ok, but if not the web album is at -

This is the heater with the cover down.

Close up of the gas feed and solenoid valve

This is where I would expect the happy click click woosh... to no avail

Breaker panel - the 15amp breaker is on so the heating element should have power

The monitor panel with electric and LP gas rockers. The Electric stays red the whole time when turned on.

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Old 04-23-2009, 11:45 AM   #2
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Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 523
SUN #67
If you're getting a small amount of warm water while on electric, your electric heating element is probably working. Sounds like maybe one of your bypass valves is in the wrong position. There could be 1,2,or 3 valves depending on the setup.

As far as the lights, the toggle switches remain lit when they are on. There is a small light between the gas and electric toggles. This is for the gas only. The gas will try to light 3 times, after the 3rd try this light will come on telling you it locked out. Turn off the gas toggle and turn it back on and it will try up to 3 more times before it locks out and that light comes on again. If the gas toggle doesn't light up when turned on, you may not be getting power or you could have a bad toggle switch.Try checking the fuses in your panel. Also if I remember right, there is a fuse on the circuit board above the burner. Try unplugging the wires from the circuit board and plugging them back in to make sure it isn't just a bad connection.

As for the ECO, take a look at your 3rd picture. The ECO and t-stat are right above the burner.

Mike & Roz
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:13 PM   #3
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Hi thesteigers

Maybe I can help. 1st off as Mike said make sure the bypass is not tripped from last season. Assuming you made it thru that there are some other things that are common between gas and elastic that will cause the heating to stop. It drove me nuts on my T2499 until I figured it out.

See here. This is out of my 2004 T2499. Your should be the same.

This is the back side of the heater looks like and where the electric element is buried.


First we need to work on the no clicks.

Make sure there is water in the heater. On this panel just turn on the LP gas rocker switch. It will glow red and stay on until you actually shut if off. All that means is the gas system is activated. The little red LED called DSI in the middle is the fault LED but you never made it to the fault stage yet so you will not get a fault. That is a flame fault only. And the electric rocker will stay on all the time too when it is on. It is just a red light to let you know it is truned on. Mike told yoi about the 3 trys and then it will cut out on saftey and that DSI light will come on. But you never made it that far yet.

So with the gas rocker on, red light in the rocker switch should be on, you should hear click click click at the heater. You be outside and have someone inside flip the switch. If no clicks, that is the 1st problem to work thru.

See this pic again

The ECO (Emergency Cut off, a high temp limit switch ) and the T Stat (thermostat) are in series with each other in the safety circuit. If that circuit does not complete itself electric nor gas will work. It will even stop the electric heating from working and gas will never even attempt to start working.

I suspect your connectors have some corrosion on them. Turn the power back off. The red rocker switch and the battery disconnect off and no shore power. Unplug the PC board connectors and look for corrosion. Push the connectors back on and off a few times to reseat it and scrape the connection.

Then the most likely, it the ECO and the Tstat connections. This one be very careful and hold the ECO in the center of the 2 terminals before pulling those connections off. The actual switch is between the 2 wire lugs and is behind the foam cover. And the same for the T stat. Hold that in the center too. That foam is just a cover. Unplug and replug a few times and then try it again.

Mine would drive me nuts with the wire on the T stat. In fact I got to the point that before I ever tried it on electric, I would just flip the gas on, if I heard no clicks, I would shut it off, go out, fiddle with the wire and then wamo, click, click, click would come and I would shut down the gas and turn on the electric as I knew the safety circuit was working. I eventually corrected the corrosion issue and now it works all the time.

See if this helps. Since you had some hot when on electric, your element is most likely OK and the relay to run it is problem OK. No need to crawl in there yet, the problem is outside still at this point as there are no clicks on gas. You may have had it working on electric then it stops and would not restart. On electric you canít hear anything so you never know if it is working or not.

Good luck and hope this helps.

If this does not do it, do you have a volt/ohm meter? We can dig deeper if needed but I think the connections might be your issue.

Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:57 AM   #4
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 34
SUN #637

Thanks much for the reply's. I will be working on those connections today once we are back from a small day trip this morning. I'm not looking forward to trying to get to the back of the water heater since its a VERY small space in the 2199, so wish me luck.

As always this forum is an amazing resource and I'm humbled by the time everyone puts into helping each other. I'll update when I've worked out the connections.

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