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10-31-2007, 10:22 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 38
SUN #391
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I need some Input
I have completed my rear floor project and now I'm ready to put the water tank back, I took all the fittings out of the tank and reinstalled after cleaning the threads and doping, I have one that will not tighten and appears to be stripped,It's for my pump inlet line. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix the plastic threads in the tank,I checked with a R/V dealer in my area and they said I would have to buy a new tank if the fitting was bad, however they said they could repair a crack in the tank with plastic weld. I have a new plastic fitting so I know it,s not the fitting thats stripped. I have also tried a metal fitting and get the same results, I believe this had leaked in the past and thats what caused the floor to rot along with a few other things that the past owner neglected to do.
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11-01-2007, 04:22 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 211
SUN #287
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It sounds like you have put alot of work into the the trailer. If it was me I would hop on the internet and hunt around and get anouther tank. It would be a shame to do all that work and be back where you started. If there is a way to fix the tank someone on the board will know.
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2006 T-1950
1999 Dodge 2500 8.0l V10
2005 F150
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11-01-2007, 07:46 AM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Message content deleted by author.
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11-01-2007, 05:32 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 38
SUN #391
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nickster60,,,Sunline Fan
Thanks for your input on my issue, Your both right about not short cutting and ruining what i have did, I had thought about drilling and rethreading the bushing, But was hoping that someone knew about a fix? I thought about a heil-coil or such. I have searched the net and I'm surprised no one has came up with a fix? But i may have missed it?
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11-01-2007, 06:10 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
As for fixing the old one, the only thing I could suggest is try a tap kit. Get a bigger fitting and tap the hole to that size.
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I agree! If there is enough material, tap it out to the next larger size and put a new fitting in it. Most tanks are made for 1/2" NPT fittings. You should be able to tap that out to 5/8" or even 3/4" and then install a new fitting.
Double, double check that there are no cracks in the tank material around the fitting.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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11-02-2007, 08:48 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 38
SUN #391
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Steve Collins: Thanks for your suggestion, My fitting is 3/8 IPT and was only taped about 1/2 way through, So what I'm thinking is to tap the threads completely through and use a service ell that has no shoulder that will restrict it from going in to the new threads,
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11-02-2007, 10:20 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sun-n-Fun
Steve Collins: Thanks for your suggestion, My fitting is 3/8 IPT and was only taped about 1/2 way through, So what I'm thinking is to tap the threads completely through and use a service ell that has no shoulder that will restrict it from going in to the new threads,
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That is a good idea! My dad was a plumbing and heating contractor his whole life, and I grew up with all that stuff in my hands all the time. I really think you are on the right track. Without seeing the problem first hand, and realizing how much available unthreaded material you've got there, it is tough to recommend specific solutions, but you've found what is probably the best.
Use enough teflon tape or pipe dope (but not too much) and you should be good.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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