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Old 03-07-2016, 09:40 PM   #1
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Good thing it was free

I spent the last couple of days on tear down / reveal of my 1982 T1250.

The good news:
  • I haven't spent a penny yet.
  • The frame was repaired and looks nice and solid.
  • No apparent water damage in the kitchen and bathroom area, other than some peeled wallpaper at the bottom of the shower. Considering it's a 34-year-old shower, not bad.
  • I have a warm, dry place to work, and I'm not discouraged (yet).

The bad:
  • All screws failed the removal test in the rear. Some were so far gone, there was little left of them. Others were acceptable underneath, but the heads were all but gone, making removal a challenge.
  • When I pulled off the interior paneling, both rear corners are completely rotten.
  • The repair someone did only made matters worse by going on top of it all with solid new construction.
  • The door frame is rotten.
  • The ceiling looks saturated around the vent housing. I haven't started in on the ceiling yet, but from here, I don't see any way around completely removing the roof.

Here is the photobucket link.

Anything can be fixed, right?

I'll hold off on specific questions until I finish the rip and reveal, but from what can be seen, any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. Encouragement would be welcome, too.
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:10 PM   #2
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Geez, what a mess with water damage! At least you're digging in and finding it all now vs. cleaning it up and finding the unfortunate truth later on.

Yeah, you get very well acquainted with your 1/4" socket and #2 square screwdriver when working on these things...
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:48 PM   #3
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Hi PatMcd,

Looks like you have a project... Yes... concealed water damage is well, extreme yucky looking. And has a smell one will never forget. It will look a little better when it dries out.

You are right, this is all fixable. And when done, you will have a nice little camper to head to the woods with.

My only suggestion at this point, make sure you get all the rot out. Don't stop short at this point and treat any solid wood near an infected area for dry rot to kill any fungus left in the wood. We have used Wood preservation, rot repair, and restoration using epoxy resin on boats and homes. with good results. It treats the wood to be able to rebuild some and kills off any fungus. Heads up though, you have to use a respirator. They sell as good one very well priced. The smell will go away in about 3 days if it can air out.

Good luck and look forward to your rebuild adventures.

John
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:41 PM   #4
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WOW!! Good thing you have a place to work on it!!
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Old 03-31-2016, 06:49 PM   #5
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Any tips for removing those pesky, rusted 1/4" hex head screws? I've encountered some that are so deteriorated that what were once hex heads are now little more than small lumps of rusty metal. I knew this would be a long, tedious project, but I didn't think I would get stuck so quickly.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:10 PM   #6
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A good pair of Vise Grips with very good tipped ends can bite onto them and allow you to unscrew. It is not totally foolproof, but has bailed me out several times.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:44 PM   #7
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I believe Greenlee makes a tool that incorperates a drill bit and easy out. So you drill it in on forward then put drill in reverse so the easy-out catches the screw and hopefully it all comes out!!
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Old 04-01-2016, 04:04 PM   #8
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Up until now, I had good luck grabbing what was left of the head with wire cutters. They dug in and grabbed a lot better than any of my pliers. In extreme cases, I used a dremel to cut a channel for a flathead screwdriver. Seventeen of the most incorrigible screws to go. If I can remove one a day, I'll consider it a success.

With each screw that I remove, I'm feeling more encouraged, starting to actually look forward to rebuilding. I'm thinking of what I can incorporate in my build that would be a big improvement over 1981. Like insulation, for instance. Ideally, something sound deadening with better R value than I have now, which is 1/2" of fiberglass. Any suggestions?

Also, I've never worked with aluminum before. I'll be removing the roof and portions of the siding. Any tips? It looks like someone did a repair job where they replaced an aluminum section, but they cut it even and did not overlap the corner under the trim. Is this going to be a problem?
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