From optimism to reality - Page 2

**JohnB** · 09-16-2020, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CSXFAN

Mine is a flat roof camper John, and it looks to have the 2 X 3 laying flat for the rafters. I'm still undecided on the roof for now? I'll know more as I get into it. I remember from doing a ton of EPDM roofs back in the day that I hated doing the white EPDM roofs. They were a major pain to work with. Granted the white roofs do reflect the sun and are cooler but I still prefer the black version. Plus on the EPDM roof I would have to have a termination over the side and would want something that would look good. However I'm speaking from doing commercial roofs so a camper might be different?

Hi Jay,

Ah, you worked with EPDM commercial roofing. Trust me, RV EPDM rubber roofing is nothing as good like a heavy commercial roofing. RV EPDM is basically 15 mil black EPDM waterproof layer with a 25 mill white shedding/reflective layer bonded on top to make up 40 mill thick RV roof. It comes 8' 6" wide and as long at needed to do the camper roof in all one piece. No rubber seams. They sell wall moldings and front and rear seam moldings to make the front, sides and rear all seam transitions. It comes out well.

Here is the Dicor EPDM instructions https://dicorproducts.com/product/di.../#installation

And, you for sure want white on the camper roof. You will cook inside with a black roof. The roof is not insulated enough to keep the high summer heat out and adding an AC unit will never keep up with the extra heat load. The camper will still get warm/hot with the white, the black could be close to not bearable.

There is lots out there, with videos, some better then others on roof installs. And we have posts here on doing Sunlines.

When the time comes, lets talk about the pro's & con's of changing the roof from what you have now.

John

**JohnB** · 09-16-2020, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CSXFAN

I tried to get a better picture of the window shims. They look to be 1/8" thick? It should be the first photo below. I looked on the light bases and did see the number you mentioned, so that's a good thing that I can order them. I'll probably replace them all, as well as the wires and plumbing but that's a good way on down the road. I'll try Harbor Freight soon, I still have about a month before I have to give the chickens their cover back.

A couple more photos. The first one shows a closer look at the window shims. The second one shows more progress being made. I have three sides off now and the door side roof is completely loose. Slowly but surely it's getting there!

Jay

Yes, those shims look 1/8" like the inside luan wall board.

Your buzzing right along getting the siding off. Great! These restorations take time, lots of it. Enjoy the ride, it's a bog wood working project, fun and rewarding, but it take a lot of time.

CSXFAN · 09-16-2020, 09:24 PM

It won't take a lot now after seeing this John...

"Dicor EPDM is a product of Carlisle Syntec Incorporated, a leader in commercial roofing materials."

I did acres and acres of Carlisle Syntec and I swear by their products!
I even have a Carlisle fully adhered system on an addition on my house that is going 28 years old with no problems at all.

Jay

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

Here is the Dicor EPDM instructions https://dicorproducts.com/product/di.../#installation
John

CSXFAN · 07-04-2022, 08:14 PM

Hi everyone! I can't believe it's been about two years since I last posted.
Life in general has slowed down my progress in a huge way. However I'm still
trying even if it's only a few hours on a Sunday once a month.
I do have a couple of things I need advice on.
Where can I find the metal piece that is missing
from the bottom of the door? I hope to start
rebuilding it in the next week?

The second thing and I hope this makes sense? Is it ok
to relocate the vent pipe? I'd like to put in a 90 degree
elbow and run it straight up through the roof where it
comes off the shower drain. We are doing away with the
bathroom sink as there is no need for it.

All the siding is off and repairs are well under way. I have
to order new windows and we plan to install new siding so
we have to wait on that. The inside is gutted and I hope to
start replacing the joists for the roof then replace that, followed
by replacing the floor. It may take forever and a day but it will
happen... if I live long enough? LOL

Jay in North Carolina and his 1978 Sunline

**JohnB** · 07-04-2022, 10:35 PM

Hi Jay,

Good to hear from you, and yes, I know these projects take time...

On the door bottom metal, that is going to be tough one.

Here are a few options.

1. See if there are any RV surplus or salvage places in your area. They may have something, even if you have to get the whole door to take what you need off of it. You are looking for a "vintage" camper door. Vintage, is the right modern day search word.

2. There are some custom RV parts places. I have no idea on cost other then is may be high. Here are 2 places to start with.

All-rite https://www.all-rite.com/rv-manufact...ut-of-business

Barker Manufacturing https://www.barkermfg.com/vintage-rv-parts.html

3. Vintage Trailer Parts has some items, I have bought from them before and had good service. I looked quick and did not find what looked like your door parts https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/

4. If you strike out on them, that bottom piece looks like it may be the same formed aluminum on the long vertical side of the door and cut on a 45 angle to go along the bottom. If you post some pics on that shape, we may be able to figure a way on how you can make something to replace it. This may be you cheapest option.

On the vent pipe, yes, you can move the vent pipe, the grey tank still needs a vent, and it can be a wet vent setup like they have it. You will need to deal with the hole in the roof, but if you are putting on an all new roof with a non metal membrane glued to new decking, then the new location will not be an issue as you can work it into the new roof without issue. If you are re-using the old metal roof, then you can cut a hole into the old metal in the new location, you just have to create a water tight patch at the old location as there will be a hole in the metal there.

Question on the vent, does your camper have a separate tank vent to the roof other then the one you want to move? The newer campers use an air admittance valve at the sink drains to create the sink drain vent. And the gray tank has a dedicated vent pipe from the tank direct up to the roof. The tank has to be vented, there are other ways on how to do the venting local drains venting.

Hope this helps

John

CSXFAN · 07-05-2022, 07:17 PM

I will look around at the salvage yards and the links you provided. If worse comes to worse I can probably take some aluminum channel and redo it all the way around the door.

I will not use the old metal roof, so that's not a problem. I'll be going back with new rafters and decking under the membrane roof. I'm actually wondering if I can turn the rafters upright instead of flat like they are now for more strength? I would have to figure out how to keep the curved profile if I do.

To the best of my knowledge I think that is the only pipe that goes from the floor through the roof. The two sinks have vents that vent under the counter for lack of better words.

Your advice is always welcomed and appreciated, thanks John!

Jay

**JohnB** · 07-06-2022, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CSXFAN

I will not use the old metal roof, so that's not a problem. I'll be going back with new rafters and decking under the membrane roof. I'm actually wondering if I can turn the rafters upright instead of flat like they are now for more strength? I would have to figure out how to keep the curved profile if I do.

To the best of my knowledge I think that is the only pipe that goes from the floor through the roof. The two sinks have vents that vent under the counter for lack of better words.

If you are going all new roof and rafters, YES, for sure create an arched rafter pointing up, verses the old flat roof way the rafters were built. Sunline converted all campers, (not sure what year) to arched roofs to allow water run off.

You can saw the rafters out of solid 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 OR create a truss rafter which is lighter. I have made both, lets talk when you get to that point on how to make the rafters that works best with your shop/tools.

On the vent pipe, OK understand, and yes that pipe still has to go out through the roof.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

John

CSXFAN · 07-18-2022, 07:34 PM

When I started rebuilding my door, I noticed this rod inside a groove.
In this photo the wood is upside down for visual purposes. It would go
against the inner skin of the door. I have no idea what it is, maybe a magnet
or part of a magnet system for the screen door? If so, do I need to sand it to
remove the rust before putting it into the new piece of wood that's going back?

IMG_6725 Camper.jpg

**JohnB** · 07-19-2022, 08:24 PM

I am not sure what that rod does. I have never rebuilt ones of these older doors, but there are others here who have.

Can you show a wider pic of the metal rod?

My guess not seeing any more of it is, it is a stiffening rod of some sort.

I'm not sure on the magnet part of this, I have not seen that level of sophistication on an older camper. But there may be???

John

CSXFAN · 07-20-2022, 08:01 PM

Some more random pics of the mystery rod.
Top Left. The length of the rod goes the entire length top
to bottom. It stops about an inch from each end. It is
upside down here for visual purposes.

Top right. The piece with the rod in it's proper place
facing the correct way.

Middle left. Holding the rod up out of the channel.

Middle right. The groove it sits in.

Bottom pic. One end of the rod. The other end has a
washer and a nut.

I decided not to put it back. I made a piece just like it
complete with groove and everything. The groove combined
with the cutout for the doorknob and lock made it extremely
weak. I'm more curious as to what it was/did than anything?

**JohnB** · 07-20-2022, 10:39 PM

Wow, that rod is a mystery being as long as the door and I agree leaving it out. I would of not cut the slot for the reasons you mentioned, it made it weak.

Really curious if someone has figured out what the rod was all about.

Thanks for posting the pics. Learn something new on Sunline Club all the time.

John

Thekid710 · 07-21-2022, 08:16 AM

If I had to guess, I’d bet it is a stiffening rod, the hinge side is kept “true” or straight by the piano hinge the full length of the door. The latch side, without the rod , would be very floppy and prone to warping since the core of the door is literally honeycomb cardboard and the structure of the door panel is all what looks like OSB. If you’re not reinstalling the rod, you may need to come up with another way to keep the latch side of the panel stiff, maybe just a wider, stronger piece of framing there? Would add weight to the door but that may not be a bad thing. Camper doors are totally cheesy.

CSXFAN · 07-23-2022, 08:23 PM

That makes perfect sense to me. I am planning to add some more
framing to take the place of the rod. The door is being put back together
with screws as well, not those corrugated fasteners that were in it before.
Thank you for your reply, it's greatly appreciated!

We made a trip to a camping store this afternoon. They were not much
help with some of the questions I had but I was kind of expecting that.
I have some more questions but I need to research the forums on here
and see what I can find. I really think this site will be my best for answers
with all the knowledgeable people on here!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thekid710

If I had to guess, I’d bet it is a stiffening rod, the hinge side is kept “true” or straight by the piano hinge the full length of the door. The latch side, without the rod , would be very floppy and prone to warping since the core of the door is literally honeycomb cardboard and the structure of the door panel is all what looks like OSB. If you’re not reinstalling the rod, you may need to come up with another way to keep the latch side of the panel stiff, maybe just a wider, stronger piece of framing there? Would add weight to the door but that may not be a bad thing. Camper doors are totally cheesy.

CSXFAN · 07-24-2022, 08:14 PM

I was able to get in a couple hours of work today on my door.
In the process I discovered some cracks in the aluminum frame.
I don't have any way to get the frame to a welder until I get
my truck back. It's at my work an hour away and I drive a company
truck home most of the time and I never know when I'll get my truck
again?

In the meantime I'm going to work on cleaning up the aluminum door parts
that are not broke as well as cleaning up the windows. We are keeping
them after all. Can anyone suggest a good way to clean them? A lot of
my searches have turned up WD40 and a fine scotch brite/brillo pad?

Another question is where can I get the weather stripping for the windows
as seen in the pics below? The first pic is looking straight at the window.
The second pic is a side view trying to show the weather stripping profile.
I looked at the sites listed on here from a search but did not see an exact match?

**JohnB** · 07-24-2022, 08:50 PM

For your weather-strip, try calling these 2 places.

Both of these companies helped me out with older camper parts. Just not as old as yours, but if they do not have it, they may know who does.

https://www.pellandent.com/

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/

I have not had to clean bare aluminum like yours, but the steel wool has worked for what I have done with it. Adding the WD 40 is a trail and error method. I'm not sure.

Hope this helps

John

PS they may ask what brand window do you have, I'm not totally sure on your older one, but Hehr windows was used for a good many years before the switch to Kinro on the later models. Sunline Fan our guru on older campers history might know. The is restoring an oldie as well.

Both Hehr and Kinro are still in operation, and both have been bought out by Lippert Components. I called Lippert direct on the Kinro windows and they helped me, but again I was only after a year 2004 camper. While they no longer make white window metal, they helped on buying new black replacement windows and selling any old white glazing bead Kinro had left.

I would start with Pelland and Vintage Trailer. They deal all the time with small orders.

Thekid710 · 07-25-2022, 06:23 AM

I think JohnB is right. Vintage trailer supply has this, depending on the measurements it may be the one you’re looking for.

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...0-pkg-vts-386/

johnnybgood · 07-25-2022, 05:54 PM

I use Mother’s aluminum polish with 0000 steel wool. That, plus lots of rags, plus lots of elbow grease, it can look almost like chrome.

CSXFAN · 07-26-2022, 08:23 PM

Thanks you John and TheKid, I appreciate it! I think I found
an exact match? I hope to pull off a piece on Sunday and compare
the two of them. I'm sick to death of this miserable heat we are having
and have moved the door, etc to my basement where it's nice and cool.
That's why I'm working on them at the moment. It's all got to be done
anyway sooner or later.

CSXFAN · 07-26-2022, 08:24 PM

That's what I'm talking about, many thanks John!

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnnybgood

I use Mother’s aluminum polish with 0000 steel wool. That, plus lots of rags, plus lots of elbow grease, it can look almost like chrome.

Thekid710 · 07-27-2022, 04:43 AM

What part of the country are you in CSXFAN? I’m on Cape Cod and it finally just cooled off yesterday. Who knows how long it will last before the heat comes back. It was pretty oppressive last week.