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Old 07-07-2019, 09:28 PM   #21
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Hi April,

Thanks for the good words. Hope it helps.

Priming the water pump, priming is a term used when the pump starts up dry with no water in it and has to pump an amount of air out until it starts drawing (sucking/pumping) water. Once the pump actually purges itself of the air, and starts pumping water, then it is considered primed. There are check valves inside the pump so water does not leak back into the tank once the pump turns off so it stays primed. That is until the system is drained or runs out of water while the pump is running, then prime needs to be reestablished. It is all normal for a water system startup.

There is nothing more you need to do that I can think off that I stated above. The key is to have enough faucets open if you are not going to let air or antifreeze go into the water heater so the pump does not have to struggle purging the air out until it catches the water prime and starts pumping water.

As fyi, RV food grade antifreeze getting into the water heater is not the end of the world. It will not break anything or hurt anything. It will however take more water to flush it all out if some gets in there or your water will be fizzy from the antifreeze. And during winterizing, it is often recommended to bypass the water heater only so you do not have to use 6 to 8 gallons of antifreeze to complete the task. And use 6 gallons in just the water heater to start coming out the other end of it. With the water heater bypass you can usually get by with 1 to 1.5 gallons of antifreeze during winterizing depending on the size of the camper. Some take a little more, some a little less.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

John
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Old 07-09-2019, 02:50 PM   #22
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Ok the fresh water tank is a little over half full. How long does it normally take for the oump to prime itself. I turn it on for around 30 seconds and then get scared Im going to burn it up or something. What is the typical length of time to let it run to get water to start running from the faucet? Thanks. Also Im gonna try and post pics.
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Old 07-09-2019, 03:41 PM   #23
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These are pics of the water pump setup.
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:07 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by AprilL View Post
Ok the fresh water tank is a little over half full. How long does it normally take for the oump to prime itself. I turn it on for around 30 seconds and then get scared Im going to burn it up or something. What is the typical length of time to let it run to get water to start running from the faucet? Thanks. Also Im gonna try and post pics.
Yes good intuition that it should be going by 30 seconds, the pump should be primed and going by then. It may have to run for a minute to build full pressure, but if it is primed it will be pumping instantly.
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:16 PM   #25
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Hi April,

A few things.

1. Are you sure this valve is Open?


If you timed a full 30 seconds and it was not a guess, then the pump should of caught some level of prime.

A few things to try.

1. Make sure that gray valve is open.

2. Tell us is if the pump made any kind of gurgling noises at all in that 30 seconds? BTW, it can run 30 sec to a minute or 2 and not burn up. 5 to 10 minutes can be a problem.

If the pump is dry with no water in it, it makes a high pitch whining sound, no gurgle, as it is only trying to move air. And if it is only trying to move air for 30 seconds, then the hose may be clogged or the valve off. Or the pump has issues inside it.

It is common that the pump will spit and sputter gurgling sounds while it it trying to catch full prime, but once prime is established, then the sound will be steady and on that older pump, sound like a burping/banging noise all the time until the pressure builds and the pump shuts off.

3. The white hose from the tank to the pump is making a loop uphill before the pump. That is an not ideal setup to help a pump get primed, but it can still work and I can see the water in the tank is now above the hose so gravity is at least in your favor.

If the water is flowing to the pump, and it is still not priming, it could be fighting back pressure of antifreeze down stream in the piping trying to get the air out to let water get to the pump. We call this air bound in the pump.

4. You can try this. Open the low point drains in the camper to the ground. Yes antifreeze will run out and that is OK. Put a bucket under the drains if water on the ground is an issue. Open both the kitchen and bath sinks hot and cold water faucet. This will allow air into the piping, break the vacuum and let more anit-freeze run out the low point drains. When the anti-freeze stops running out on the ground, leave everything open and try the water pump.

Let it run the 30 seconds and you should start hearing the gurgling and then burping/banging of the pump as it starts catching prime. If it is running, and pumping, let it run and go close the low point drains, and the all the faucets but one. When the last faucet flows with no air spitting, then turn it off and the pump should build pressure and shut off.

If you hear nothing at all but a high pitched whine, with all the valves open etc, then the pump is not getting water. Or it is bad inside. You can try shutting the gray tank valve off so tank water will not flow non stop, and then unhook the white suction hose at the pump and see if any water is coming out of the hose. That hose should be filled with water. Use a towel or bucket etc to not get it all over the floor


As FYI, long term, that hose should be a little shorter to allow a better gravity pump flow. Try moving it lower to the floor if you can and not kink it. In your case, if that hose was more straight from tank to pump it would be an easier gravity feed to the pump with water, but with the uphill rise, the water in the tank has to be above the top of the top to ever flow to the pump on it's own.

Hope this helps.

If you cannot get anywhere, take a short quick few seconds phone video of the pump noise and post. We can tell by the noise if the pump is doing anything.

John
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:25 PM   #26
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Seeing this pic,



You cannot easily get the white hose off the inlet to the pump with that crimped fitting on there.

Instead, unhook the white hose at the gray valve and see if water comes out.

Seeing this setup, the prior owner most likely made a homemade winterizing kit, unhooked the hose at the gray valve and stuck it in a jug of antifreeze. That is why the hose it so long. Once you get the pump working, we can revisit the long hose issue.

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Old 07-11-2019, 10:57 AM   #27
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Victory!!! The valve WAS the wrong way altho I did try running the pump with the valve turned both ways. So I unhooked the inlet hose, turned the pump on then poured water into the end of the hose and kept topping it off then put my thumb over the opening. Finally I felt suction! So hooked the inlet hose back up and turned on the pump and....we have running water! I let it run to purge all the air. The water was not pink tinged at all so hmmm? Thank you, thank you!!!
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:01 AM   #28
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Yeh!!! Good for you. You done good!

Now that you know everything works, I really think that for long term try and flex/rotate the white infeed hose down towards the floor and fasten/tie it down there, so that it does not create an air trap in the pipe. Just try and not kink the hose. You are trying to let gravity allow the water to flow to the pump and allow the air to escape from the white hose over the top of the water when it is filling, when the tank fills with water. Then the pump is filled with water before you ever turn it on. Makes priming so much easier.

With that large 6 to 8" high up hill hump they have in the hose, when the system is drained, that hose is filled with air all the way to the pump. And the pump also with air. When the fresh tank fills with water, it will seal off the air in that hose and it will be trapped in there and cannot get out. Then the pump has to evacuate all that air just trying to start to pump water.

With the hose down low and no hump, (ideal is hose is straight from tank to pump, ) then water just entering the fresh tank will start flowing to the pump almost immediately. Since the tank fills slow, the air in the hose can escape back into the tank as the water fills the hose. Then you have every little air trapped in the hose trying to prime the pump.

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Old 07-14-2019, 12:53 PM   #29
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So when Im staying in the camper long term do I leave the pump on all the time and it will shut off automatically or do I turn it on just when I need water?
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:48 PM   #30
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Update

Someone told me that I could leave the pump on and it would go on and off as needed. So I turned it on and after running about a minute I heard a pop and then water running outside the camper. I found a white knob/plug popped off the water heater and water was running out. So I screwed that back in and its fine and not leaking or anything. Any ideas on what happened? im including pics of the heater. Sorry if theyre sideways. Cant figure out how to stop that. The white knob is to the left of the square box with the blue knob and sitting behind a small brass fitting. In one of the pics there is a brass/gold colored tab/slider sticking up behind the box with the blue on/off knob on it. Do you know what that is?
Did some more checking and The hot water flows as well so I think the water heater was never emptied? No pink stuff whatsoever either. The white plug does actually leak when I turn on the pump. It might be because I have to tighten it some more.
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:50 PM   #31
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To be safe yes turn it off when you are done running water otherwise it may pump the tank dry while you are away all over the floor!
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:53 PM   #32
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The white plug is the low point heater drain it must not have been tight after the tank was drained for the winter. So I guess you see what I mean about turning off the pump.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:15 PM   #33
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Since the camper was winterized before you took ownership, the prior owner drained the water heater by unscrewing that white nylon drain plug you are referring too. It is common that some folks just screw it in a thread or so for the winter as they know come spring, they have to remove it to flush the water heater before system startup.

So yes, that white knob is a drain plug. To seal it from leaking, ideally wrap a few turns of teflon pipe sealing tape on it and then screw it it and tighten it. You can get the teflon tape at any hardware store or Lowes etc. Just remember it is plastic and will strip the threads off of it if you over tighten it.

See here for replacement plugs. Suggest you get some as they do strip every now and then from just being put in and taken out.

Camco brand
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11630-W...s%2C155&sr=8-4

Atwood brand
https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91857-...s%2C155&sr=8-3

And, do "not" use a metal (brass or steel) drain plug. Yes it will plug the hole but it is very easy to cross thread the plug getting it in that tight location. And a metal plug cross threaded in the tank can damage the tank. They use the food grade nylon plug so if the plug cross threads, throw away the cheap plug and not the expensive tank.

Something else to know since your new at this. You should flush the debris out of the bottom of the tank, ideally before sanitizing. But for sure even after sanitizing. Hard water minerals and other debris are created when you heat water. It all collects in the bottom of the heater. Flushing it at least every spring helps keep all that debris out of the faucet screens and corroding the bottom of the water heater.

They sell these plastic wands for flushing. I think it is a Camco brand as well. I bought it years ago. Some folks make their own.
HW heat flush on Flickr

HW flush in actionon Flickr

Here is one of them. Can look for more https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-...gateway&sr=8-1

To the water pump on and off, yes, when the pump builds pressure it will shut itself off. And as the pressure is used by opening a faucet, it will turn on again all automatically. When you are in the camper and using the water system, leaving it on is not a problem, as you are nearby.

AND if you hear the pump turn on and you did not use any water, it will run and maybe stop. This is a heads up. Something allowed the pressure to drop and the pump kicked in to bring it back up. If it only happens once, then there are reasons for just once. But if every few minutes or every few hours it just kicks on and then shuts off it can mean a leak in the camper, Or a leaking check valve in the pump. So be on alert if you hear it going on and off and you not using water. Hearing it cycle on and off and you not using water is a problem that needs correction, quickly.

I 110% agree with Mainah on turning the pump off if you leave the camper. Things happen. I learned the hard way, not a flood but a burnt out pump. We went for a walk in the CG, the camper happened to be low on water. The pump was left on and something made the pump kick on to build pressure. Well it sucked air over the water in the tank as it was about empty. The pump lost prime and ran for a hour of more until we came back. Walked into the camper to the smell of hot electrical insulation. I tracked it down and other then having to buy a new pump all was OK. But it does happen. So now, we always turn the pump off if the leave the camper.

Your doing great! Keep up the good work. The learning will continue, and never really stop, just slow down in time.
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Old 07-15-2019, 04:04 PM   #34
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Thanks for all the great replies! Any answers on the brass slider tab sicking up behind the box with the blue knob on it? It clicks to the left and the right. Not very firmly tho.
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Old 07-15-2019, 04:18 PM   #35
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Just answered my own question. Its a temperature control.
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Old 07-15-2019, 05:14 PM   #36
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Be careful they can make very hot water!
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:19 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by AprilL View Post
Just answered my own question. Its a temperature control.
Hi April,

Yes the lever is for temp control. Some info on the water temperature, the Atwood heaters that use electronic controls have a fixed temp thermostat set at 140F. That 140, is higher than your home normal hot water that is often set at 120F. On the RV heater, Atwood made it higher to allow more available hot water from the same 6 gallon heater. You would blend it with cold to make it last longer. 140F water is very hot when it hits you directly, you can get burned by it. We use it this way, realize the full hot situation and always blend it in the shower and it does work OK. You really do not need to turn on the hot faucet on very very much.

As Mainah said, heads up! That slider thermostat on your all gas water heater allows you the ability to accidentally get a lot hotter then the 140 F even. And calcium buildup inside the tank from hard water even aggravates the issue of too hot more so insulating the heater sensor to shut off. There is no real setting on your lever to dial in, the 140 or other number. You tweak it a little, and test what it gives you.

Suggest before adjusting the heater and after, measure the water temp coming out a faucet. Have the heater on and let it warm up and shut itself off. This is as hot as it normally gets. The temp measure test can be done simply by running hot water (only) down the sink drain with a meat thermometer in the water stream. Once the cold water in the lines flushes out, the hot water temp will max out by the thermometer. Then you know what it is set at.

Being in the shower and getting a full blast of above 140 while your fiddling with the knobs, is very unpleasant. Even 140 is not good.

Just a friendly camper heads up to pass along as your learning your new camper.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-08-2019, 11:35 AM   #38
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Update

An update:
Hi everyone! So I took Sunny out for the first time to a campground a little over an hour away. It went well. I towed well. And got into and out of the campsite well. Although I cheated. I didn't have to back up. I did however, have to back into the place where I store it when we got back. It took 5 or 6 tries trying to get it backed into a spot along a wooden fence close enough so I have room to open things up between Sunny and fence but not out in the road too much.
Now on to the water. The pump worked great! But some issues....
When I initially put the 12 or so gallons via siphon into the camper. It disappeared. I'm not certain but I think it may have gone into the hot water heater. Which by the way I can't get the pilot light lit. Not even sure where your supposed to light it. Pictures of it are in earlier posts. (I will post about the gas problems in another appropriate placed post.) So we only had cold water after putting more water in the tank via siphon. This was the trip to fill up all tanks and flush at the campground. My site did not have hookups so I emptied and filled tanks on the way out to go home.
Here's what happened when I emptied and filled the first time. Oh yeah, I had to pull up and back up a couple times to get Sunny lined up to the dump station. So when I opened the cap to the tanks hookup there was about a cup of black water that spilled out on the ground. I hooked up the black water hose and opened the black lever. Everything drained. It seemed like a lot. Then I closed the black tank lever and opened the grey. Nothing came out. I suppose both tanks drained when I opened the black lever. Not sure why? When it came time to fill the fresh water tank I realized I don't have the correct hookup to screw on to the fresh water tank so I just held the hose to the fresh tank hole. I had no idea when the tank was full so when it was full I received a nice cold shower. It was hot out so I guess it was well received. A bit annoyed too as I had to drive all the way home soaking wet. haha.
Also, in the pics my grandsons first camping trip....he had a blast helping me with Sunny!
So there is my update and I just want to add that this all would be way harder if it wasn't for you kind hearted folks in the Sunline World. Thanks so much for all your support, encouragement, and help!!!! Love you guys!!!!
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:46 PM   #39
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Yeh, you made it out camping. Great!!! Thanks for reporting back

Quote:
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Now on to the water. The pump worked great! But some issues....
When I initially put the 12 or so gallons via siphon into the camper. It disappeared. I'm not certain but I think it may have gone into the hot water heater.
The water heater holds 6 gallons and the piping may take 1 to 2 gallons. So yes, when you turn the pump on, you lose all that water to fill the system. And you really will not be able to use that "system" water. Top off the tank while at the water source after you fill the system. Your supply will then be what is in the fresh tank that can be pumped out and the pump not suck dry.

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Which by the way I can't get the pilot light lit. Not even sure where your supposed to light it. Pictures of it are in earlier posts. (I will post about the gas problems in another appropriate placed post.)
OK we will wait for your post on the water heater.

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Here's what happened when I emptied and filled the first time. Oh yeah, I had to pull up and back up a couple times to get Sunny lined up to the dump station. So when I opened the cap to the tanks hookup there was about a cup of black water that spilled out on the ground. I hooked up the black water hose and opened the black lever. Everything drained. It seemed like a lot.

Then I closed the black tank lever and opened the grey. Nothing came out. I suppose both tanks drained when I opened the black lever. Not sure why?
The black water coming out with the cap off can be a few things. One being, it was never 100% slide closed to start with. It happens sometimes and liquid will flow to the cap and stop if the cap gasket is good.

Other issues can be, paper is stuck in the slider valve and will not seal off.

And the sealing gasket in the tank slider valve my have a nick or tear in it creating a leak. The valve can be rebuilt with a new gasket or the whole slider valve part replaced and not the tank fittings.

As standard practice, "always" be alert and expect that some black or gray water may come out. Take the cap off last in the dumping setup. Get your hose and gloves on and ready, then slowly start unscrewing the cap. If liquid starts coming out, you can seal it back on quick and check the valves are closed. Then start again. You may have to partly undo it and wait for the liquid drain to stop versus a gusher coming out. If you can, hold the dump hose to catch the liquid. Once the liquid stops, take the cap off the rest of the way and put the dump hose fitting on.

I had a tank valve leak twice. Once on the gray and once on the black. Bad seal on the gray. There was about a gallon of liquid in there. I got past that event which since it was gray. it was not that bad. I have since replaced the standard dump cap with one with a 3/4" hose fitting and cap in the large 3" cap. Then if I have an issue, I can unscrew the 3/4" cap and have less volume come out all at once. This helped when the black valve leaked.

On your gray tank not having any liquid come out, unless you never ran any water down the sink or shower, (I doubt that) gray water should of come out. Some older other brand campers did run the gray water into the black tank but I was not aware Sunline ever did that. If you have 2 tank slider valve levers, then there should of been water coming out. OR your gray tank valve leaks water all the time. Meaning it was draining out when the dump pipe cap was off and the black tank was empting.

You can test this by having the black tank and gray tank valve closed. Tanks are empty at this point. On a gravel driveway or other acceptable place, take the dump pipe cap off.

Using jugs/buckets etc of water and dump a gallon or two down the sink drain. Then go outside and look at the dump pipe. If the water you just put in is draining out, your gray tank slider valve leaks all the time and you then know to get that corrected.

Quote:
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When it came time to fill the fresh water tank I realized I don't have the correct hookup to screw on to the fresh water tank so I just held the hose to the fresh tank hole. I had no idea when the tank was full so when it was full I received a nice cold shower.
H'mm I'm going by your words and maybe a misunderstanding. You stated
Quote:
screw on to the fresh water tank
What are you trying to screw the fill hose onto when filling the fresh tank? Take a pic etc to help explain.

Normally, an RV type hose spout might goes on the end of the potable water hose and you can push the spout into the gravity water fill hole. It just rests in the. On some camper fill pipes, they are large enough you just put the hose male end stuck in the hole and fill it. You are not really screwing the hose onto anything of the tank fill when you fill by the gravity feed on the fresh tank. That is, unless your older camper has some modification by a prior owner.

The tank full spit back. This is something that comes with time and learning. You learn to listen to the tank filling. And stand to the side as it can and will spit back. As water starts getting closer to the top of the tank, the nosies change on most tanks. You get a hose shut off for the end of your hose and you can slow down the fill rate as the tank noise gurgle starts coming up the fill pipe. The spit back then is very small or none. The tank air vent can sometimes spit too. Again I'm assuming your camper has a standard type of RV gravity fill spout to fill the fresh tank. Take pics so we can see what you have and are trying to do.

Hope this helps

John

PS. These camping times are great for kids. Good for you taking him. They learn early and can have a lot of fun and remember it for years to come. And learn, doing camp choirs can be fun.
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Old 08-19-2019, 09:20 AM   #40
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Picture of fresh water hookup

Here is the picture of the fresh water fill.
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File Type: jpg 20190813_135541.jpg (58.7 KB, 4 views)
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