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Old 08-01-2017, 12:12 AM   #41
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So for the battery.....


Not knowing what pin he probed on the end of the 7 wire cable, I'll make an assumption he knew which pin was the battery charge line and which was the DC common to do a volt check. And it sounds like this turned up no voltage if we understand your note correct.

1. A few questions, was the camper plugged into shore power when he was doing this test? YES

2. Was the battery disconnect with turned on or off when he did this check? NO





Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Hi Joan,

Using a volt meter on the end of the 7 wire cable can be done pending what you are testing. If he was checking to see if the battery charging wire was live with power, that is an OK use of a volt meter on the 7 wire cable.

Not knowing what pin he probed on the end of the 7 wire cable, I'll make an assumption he knew which pin was the battery charge line and which was the DC common to do a volt check. And it sounds like this turned up no voltage if we understand your note correct.

1. A few questions, was the camper plugged into shore power when he was doing this test?

2. Was the battery disconnect with turned on or off when he did this check?

We need to know the answers to those 2 questions before we make any conclusions.

Inside the junction box on the front frame of the camper is a "battery charge" 30 amp fuse. It is to protect the camper and the truck from a dead short or over current on the charge line. When this fuse blows, it is hard to even know it is blown until you do some testing to find out why something is not working, like the camper battery is not being charged when you are towing down the road.

To test if the battery charge line is working, you can only test for power at the 7 wire plug when the battery disconnect is on. If it is off, then there will be no power to test from the battery. BUT, if the camper is plugged into shore power, that same wire is powered then by the converter in the camper. So the better way to test this is, make sure shore power is unplugged, the battery disconnect is on and then test.

You also do not need a volt meter to test this, you can use any camper light. If the truck charge line wire is working and the truck 7 wire plug at the back has power at it, (some trucks need the truck running to test this) then just plug the camper 7 wire cable into the truck. Have the battery disconnect switch "off" in this case, and then turn on a light inside the camper. It can be any light you know worked. Even the hitch light outside. If the fuse is good, the power will flow through the battery charge fuse to the light switched on in the camper from power supplied by the truck. If the light does not work, then the charge fuse is blown or has real bad corrosion on it.

This battery charge fuse is totally separate from your tail light issues. It is a problem and the fuse should get replaced so the camper battery is charged by the truck when you are towing. But it will not fix your tail light issues.

Someone will need to get into that plastic junction box on the outside frame of the camper behind the battery. Getting that cover off is real pain in the neck. Odds are high dirt has filled the screw holes and there are tiny Philips screws buried deep inside.

See this post for what it looks like inside and the charge fuse holder. While this post deals with fixing the 30 amp auto resetting circuit breaker, a the bottom of my reply it talks about how to get that cover off and not break it in the process. If you get the cover off, I suggest you also convert to the screws I have listed in this post so next time it will come off a lot easier. If you have the repair man go in that box, make sure you show him the pics in this linked post and how to get those screws out. That box is fragile and it will not take much to break it and then you have to deal with that.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f1...tml#post137518

Also while he is in there, this is the place the 7 wire cable splices into the camper wiring and where the running lights and the stop/turn/hazard lights wires start. He can check those connections for corrosion.

Since it now sounds like "all" running lights do not work, is that correct, "all" running lights? If so then there is a possible issue with the prongs on the end of the 7 wire cable. This can be tested for if they are actually working or bent and not making contact. This comes back to needing to do a good test on the end of the 7 wire cable to confirm what does and does not work.

Hope this helps. These electrical gremlins can be search and destroy mission to find some times. A lot of digging for loose or bad connection somewhere.

John
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:22 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo View Post
So for the battery.....


Not knowing what pin he probed on the end of the 7 wire cable, I'll make an assumption he knew which pin was the battery charge line and which was the DC common to do a volt check. And it sounds like this turned up no voltage if we understand your note correct.

1. A few questions, was the camper plugged into shore power when he was doing this test? YES

2. Was the battery disconnect with turned on or off when he did this check? NO
Hi Joan, Was there a typo on the answer to no. 2? Was looking for an on or off answer.

Regardless, at this point if the shore power was plugged in when he did this test, and he probed the correct pin in the 7 wire cable, then your charge fuse is blown inside that junction box on the front of the camper. The link I posted showed what it looks like and the issues surrounding getting into that box.

By this charge fuse being blown or the fuse holder having a problem, this means your camper battery will not be charging from the truck when you are towing. This is not a show stopper but you loose the benefit of having it when you need it. If you boondock, then this is where it can help you charge the battery while towing from campsite to campsite. If you are on shore power all the time, you will not notice an issue as the camper battery is normally always topped off in charge by the power converter running.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:24 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo View Post
***UPDATE***

So I did have two issues, one with the truck and one with the camper

The truck needed new batteries...Done

One of the men who does maintenance and RV repair in the park did some troubleshooting and he said it was the light socket and just replaced the whole light fixture. Plugged my truck in and now I have turn, brake and hazards lights on the driver's side.

He also repacked my wheel bearings and checked the trailer brakes

He said all the brakes looked good but one of the seals was leaking. I had seen some black grease on my levelers a while back and wondered if it was from my wheel. It had been 3 years since I had the bearing repacked and knew it was time. He said all the bearings looked good and he replaced all the seals with new seals.

Tomorrow his son is coming over to wash my camper and inspect the roof and use Dicor anywhere necessary

All services including parts just slightly over $200. I think that's a deal, especially since I did not have to take it in to any shop

So I should be good to go for awhile with these issues! Thanks for all your help, you guys are the best!!
You found a really good deal and help there. Great! Glad this part if now behind you.

Nice pics too!

Thanks for sharing.

John
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:41 PM   #44
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Sorry...The camper was connected to power and the battery was on

I am not really set up for boondocking but I do an occassional overnight in Walmart parking lot

Still if there IS something wrong I would like to fix it

I am leaving tomorrow for Bandon on the coast for a month so
I will have more time to look into it

Thanks!!



Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Hi Joan, Was there a typo

on the answer to no. 2? Was looking for an on or off answer.

Regardless, at this point if the shore power was plugged in when he did this test, and he probed the correct pin in the 7 wire cable, then your charge fuse is blown inside that junction box on the front of the camper. The link I posted showed what it looks like and the issues surrounding getting into that box.

By this charge fuse being blown or the fuse holder having a problem, this means your camper battery will not be charging from the truck when you are towing. This is not a show stopper but you loose the benefit of having it when you need it. If you boondock, then this is where it can help you charge the battery while towing from campsite to campsite. If you are on shore power all the time, you will not notice an issue as the camper battery is normally always topped off in charge by the power converter running.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:05 AM   #45
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Just a bit of info I found on my GMC. There are 2 fuses for the tail light, 1 for the left and 1 for the right tail light system
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