Electrical Panel/Power converter

[Dman]

Hi,

I recently purchased a 2005 Sunline Solaris T267SR. My question is about the electrical panel/converter located under the bunk beds near the bathroom at the end of the trailer. I noticed a bright green light on which underneath the light states overload (it is the first light going from left to right). Is this normal? Is this just because the trailer was plugged in?

What are the next lights for? Low Mid Full?? They are not lit up.

The last light is on and under that light is said BT check? This light is not quite as bright as the first green light but it is illuminated. Not sure what this is for either. Everything appears to be working OK just not sure what these lights are for.

It is an American panel/converter model CS6000XL I have also attached some pictures.

Thanks

[JohnB]

H'mm,

I'm away from my normal tech stuff, but a question, do you have a battery installed that is good and is the battery disconnect switch turned on?

The BT check, I "think" means battery check. The low, mid & full "I think" is some level of battery state of charge.

The overload light might be from no battery connected, but I'm not sure.

If you want to test that the power converter is creating a good battery charge, plug the camper into shore power 120 VAC, and using a volt meter at the battery terminals check the DC voltage.

13.25 volts area means float charge

13.65 volts area means standard charge

If you only see 12.7 volts or lower, the power converter is not charging or maintaining the battery. That can come from a few issues, but let's see if you get 13 volts or higher first before we get into troubleshooting why the battery charge feature is not working.

Hope this helps

John

[Dman]

I just purchased a new battery for the camper a few weeks ago. I was told that the old battery was not deep cell and it was strongly suggested to have a new deep cell battery. I believe the battery is good and the disconnect switch is on. I have shore power to the camper and will get a meter to check to see what the voltage is.

Thanks,
Derek

[JohnB]

Hi Derek,

I have a foggy memory that the Overload light changes from green = OK to, red = not OK. This "might" be why you are seeing green now, as it can be OK.

You are correct, you want a deep cycle battery.

Do your voltage checks and if they do not come out right, then let's talk about what could be the problem of why the charger is not getting a good connection to the battery.

John

[Dman]

The voltage checks came out just fine and everything is working properly. I checked the camper with battery power and shore power. I am just getting used to the camper and different systems and how they operate. I found out that the light on the right is not really a light and it is a push button that shows or lights up the battery power (low mid full) lights in the middle.

Thanks for the information and help.
Derek

[JohnB]

Derek,

Thanks for reporting back and that all is good. Great!

Also while we are on the battery, your vintage Sunline has a battery disconnect switch on the frame header by the battery. If you store the camper and you are no plugged into shore power, turn the disconnect off, if not the battery can be drained dead in about 2 weeks from the little parasitic drains left on in the camper.

The LP detector, the radio display, the roof top antenna booster gets left on and the worst one, if the fridge climate control rocker switch is on. The fridge climate control switch is inside the cabinet up in the freeze gasket area when you open the door. It's purpose is to warm the door gasket to not freeze up under super humid conditions. I leave ours off all the time. That heat strip is active all the time with the rocker switch on even if the fridge is turned off. You may want to look for that climate control switch and try using the camper with it off.

Have fun learning all the new stuff on your Sunny! And best of all, have fun camping!

John

[deliloah]

I have the exact same model. Does anyone know where the SLIDEOUT control panel is?!?!

Thank you

[BenB]

What problem are you having? It's pretty much the wall switch for in and out. Does your slide not move? Check fuse in the panel, should be labeled slide or slideout.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by deliloah

I have the exact same model. Does anyone know where the SLIDEOUT control panel is?!?!

Thank you

Hi,

When you say slide-out control and the exact same model, do you mean the power converter (American enterprises) or the camper model 2005 T267SR, or both?

As for the slide-out motor drive control on a 2004 or newer Sunline SR camper, the wall switch and the emergency shut-off switch is the control system. The wall button turns the power on and off. This was the Lippert brand of the slide control system for a rack and pinion drive system.

There are "no" fuses for the "slide motor" inside the power converter panel. There is a fuse for the lights in the slide room in the power converter. On the 2004 and newer slide campers, the slide motor has a 30 amp self-resetting circuit breaker mounted outside in the plastic 7-wire truck cable junction box on the front frame header behind the battery. Getting into that plastic junction can be an issue; ask how to get in, as they crack and break easily while attempting to get in.

Some of the older Sunlines slide room drives (before 2004 models) used a brand of slide drive by Dewald, Power Gear, and Barker. Most had the wall switch to run the slide motor drive, some had an electric torque control, while others had a mechanical slip clutch. The main 30 amp power fuse was still in 7 wire cord junction box, but the junction box was a wood-covered box inside the front of the camper, not on the frame header. Pending the floor plan, the junction box moved around but was normally along the front wall inside the camper.

If this does not solve your problem, tell us more about your problem, the model and year camper, and the brand of power converter make and model.

Hope this helps

John