Dometic fridge problems...

[sdsferraro]

We recently bought our 1990 Sunline and I have fixed all the little quirks it's had from its 18 years, but can't figure out the fridge. The 12 volt light inside works. I have tested from the 12 volt connections on the outside and get around 12 volts. I have tested the 120 volt electric and it is ok. It also will not work on propane. The igniter tries to light, but I don't think it gets any gas. What am I missing? Any ideas? Hate to buy a new fridge without trying.
Thanks!

[SanDimasJoe]

You might try cleaning the small orifice that the pilot light gas goes thru. Sometimes spiders make their homes in them. I know it has happened to me.

Joe

[JohnB]

Does the fridge have a run on electric option?

If the igniter is sparking, and assume it try’s 3 times then cuts out, if so then the main safety circuit is working and if you have electric element it should work. The gas not firing is something different.

How long did you wait? Takes a good 8 hours to get down to ~34- 36 ish.

Was the TT level in both directions? The older models where more prone to not working is not level. But this means the electric element is actually working if you are on electric.

What model is it? Can look up the diagram on it so I can see what you have. Is yours electric ignition or gas pilot?

Does the stove top light on LP when you try the fridge? Meaning is the entire air purged out of the gas lines. If the stove and the furnace run then the fridge should have gas up to the valve after 1 or 2 cycles of the safety circuit. If not air purged it can take a real long time to light on the small LP use of a fridge.

Hope this helps

John

[sdsferraro]

Thanks for the quick replies, I was hoping to use the fridge this weekend, but might be coolering it. Anyhow, the model #RM2604. It will not work on gas or electric. It does get 120v and 12v on the outside, not sure how to check at the inside control box. The 12 v light inside does work. And the gas is electric ignition. The ignitor just keeps clicking, but doesn't light. I have left it on the electric for days, just to see if it cools, but no luck.

Thanks again!

[Al in PA]

My 2051 has the same type fridge. It works best if the trailer is level. Also, I found that the fridge would light quicker on gas if the stove was burning: It helped to bleed any air out of the gas lines quicker. I have problems from time to time with mud wasps clogging the orifice.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by sdsferraro

Thanks for the quick replies, I was hoping to use the fridge this weekend, but might be coolering it. Anyhow, the model #RM2604. It will not work on gas or electric. It does get 120v and 12v on the outside, not sure how to check at the inside control box. The 12 v light inside does work. And the gas is electric ignition. The igniter just keeps clicking, but doesn't light. I have left it on the electric for days, just to see if it cools, but no luck.

Thanks again!

Hi sdsferraro

I tried to find an online manual so I could see the wiring diagram for it. I could not find the RM2604 on line but found many close to it and they all for the most part work the same. Some just with more features.

H'm from what you have told us, you may have 1 or 2 problems.

Are you handy with a voltmeter and electricity? If so we can dig deeper into this.

If you have the electric ignition firing, you may be able to hear/fell a click on the gas solenoid when the firing sequence first starts. No click on the valve means it is not being told to open. This can also be confirmed by a voltage check. It is 12 VDC.

There is also on some a small gas shut off valve before the gas valve. It looks like a screwdriver slot. The slot is usually showing which way the gas will flow. Is it open?

The electric element can be 1 of 2 things. Burned out element or burned out controller board or a connection.

If the fridge inside light works and the igniter works, then at least the controller board and the igniter part is working along with the thermostat. The gas valve may not be working or told to open, if it is not told to open, then the controller board may be bad.

There are also some small glass fuses on the controller board. Can be one of the fuses blown.

Next steps will take a deeper level of troubleshooting and needing a voltmeter and knowing how to use one to dig deeper. I do not want to send you in there trouble shooting if you are not electriclly friendly.

Hope this helps

John