Don;t know if this will help towards your quest for amp draw, but:
My 2004 unit (RM 2652) draws approx 300 to 350 milli amps off the battery with the fridge on gas mode and keeping the LP detector powered up. While boon-docking I measured this as this is the overhead the camper draws from my battery bank.
I would call that an overhead constant current. It is not when the igniter is going off, but the gas valve is on and the burner is burning. The control board is fired up as well on 12 VDC. The igniter I'm sure draws more but mine takes about 1 to 2 clicks once it is primed to fire off so it is not much that affects me.
Here is an excerpt from the service manual. While the system is fused at 3 amps I have no idea how they are using that much power. Even the Climate control strips only takes 1/2 amp. (The heat strip under the freezer door. )
Dometic Service Manual says:
12 Volt Connection : The connection is made to the terminal block marked 12 volts DC. The control system is connected to a battery/converter circuit and could draw about 3 amps at 12 volts DC. The refrigerator must be connected to the battery circuit with two wires of adequate capacity to avoid voltage drop. Proper polarity is crucial for refrigerator operation. Donít use the chassis for the ground circuit. No other electrical equipment or lighting should be connected to refrigerator circuit. A loose connection will create erratic operation.
On three way units the DC heater will draw up to 18 AMPS and size of wires should follow installation instructions for the model unit you are working on.
Hope this helps. If you want this any closer let me know. I will try and measure it for you.
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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