Can the Dometic refrigerators be...

Corrigan · 07-27-2019, 05:06 PM

refurbished? The one in my camper isn't working. They're so expensive new, is it worth it to have it repaired or reconditioned? Oh, and it's in a 1985 camper, not sure if that makes a difference...

Thanks,

Jim C

**JohnB** · 07-28-2019, 08:54 AM

Hi Jim,

If you can provide the model number of your fridge, that can help tell us which one you have and may alter the response, a little. Below is a generic response not knowing more about what you have and what does not work.

To your direct question, yes Dometic fridges can be repaired. Depending on what is wrong with your fridge, the repair cost can vary greatly.

What is not working? and try to be specific explaining this and how you came to find this out.

Has the fridge ever worked for you and now it broke down? or has it never worked since you owned it?

Are you handy mechanically and at least know the basics of 12 volt car DC electric?

The RV fridge is basically a mechanical unit that heats a gas to remove heat in the fridge to create cold and it has a control system. I know that sounds odd, but that is how the absorption fridges work. The control systems can vary by model and year of the fridge.

RV fridges also take a long time to get cold as compared to a home compressor fridge. When a RV fridge is working normally, it can take 8 to 10 hours to create cold. And it is hard to feel by your hand. Using a thermometer inside the fridge compartment is best to tell if it is doing anything and by how much. A basic test is to put an open plastic container of water in the freezer and see if it freezes. It only needs to be 1/4" to 1/2" deep of water.

The RV fridge works really well for camping off the grid. It uses very little power (pending model, some not needing power) and can run on LP gas or electric pending model when you get back to shore power.

The most expensive repair part (1 item) is the cooling coil. A new cooling coil can be about half the price of a new fridge. If you get a rebuilt cooling coil, it may be sometimes about 25 to 30% of a new fridge. Then you add other things, like controls and labor if you have it hired out. We do not yet know if your fridge has a cooling coil failure and odds are, right now you do not either. You can do a quick look at the boiler area where the LP gas burner is and look for visual signs of any yellow residue on any of the parts. You can see this by removing the outside camper vent cover. Some have sheet metal over the gas burner, you might have to take off to see the burner area. You do not have to take any sheet metal off surrounding the chimney tube with insulation behind it. Follow the gas line and you will end up at the gas burner.

If you can post pics of the inside and outside of the fridge, that can help show us what you have.

Some folks gave up on their older fridge and installed a small dorm style compressor type fridge. The cost is low, but you give up the off grid camping option.

Again, back to what fridge do you have and what does not work on it?

Hope this helps

John

mainah · 08-02-2019, 05:43 PM

There is nothing special with your older fridge the cooling unit can be replaced in situ on the table for about half the price of a new unit. If the stack is getting hot electric or gas and it's not cooling it's toes up. Personally I would never swap out with a dorm fridge it limits you to a powerpoint even on the road for a long trip and no one wants soggy ice cream.

phantom444e · 08-08-2019, 05:32 PM

The refrigerator in my camper didn't work when I bought it, I did some test and checks that I found online and determined that the cooling unit was shot. After a lot of thoughts of just removing it and using the space as extra storage space I found that there was no way to get the refrigerator out of the camper without removing the camper door. I ordered a new cooling unit and replaced it by putting the refrigerator on the bunk (with the cushions removed). Not sure what model refrig you have, but the cooling unit for mine was around $400. once I sent back the old cooling unit as a core.

Ketchakah · 08-13-2019, 04:17 AM

Phantom,
Where did you get your cooling unit from ?

phantom444e · 08-13-2019, 05:44 AM

I got it from RV cooling unit warehouse (https://www.rvcoolingunit.com) It came with the cooling unit, thermal caulk and some sealing tape. I believe there is a video on their site showing how to replace the unit, if not there are several on youtube.

phantom444e · 08-13-2019, 08:43 PM

RV Cooling Unit Warehouse, it came with the thermal caulk and some sealing tape.

Viking · 08-19-2019, 11:33 AM

I had the same problem. Fridge would not fit through the door. Took the T2499 to a Mennonite shop in Shipshehwanna (spelling?), IN. As I am in Norway at the moment, I can't look up the name. I drove from north of Detroit area, dropped off the Sunline and went to eat and tour the museum. When I came back, he was in the process of testing the repair. He took it out and worked on it on the table.

Viking · 08-20-2019, 03:27 AM

Memory is an unreliable thing. I said in my previous post that it was the fridge in my T2499 that needed repair. No, it was not, It was our previous Dutchmen 18 footer.

Ketchakah · 08-24-2019, 06:05 AM

Thank you for the information

Nsmatt · 12-15-2019, 06:32 PM

Hi guys our fridge in our 1980 Saturn is not running .Planning on replacement with a electric dorm type. My question is what do I do with the gas line that isn’t needed in that area? Thanks sue

phantom444e · 12-15-2019, 11:34 PM

I would think you could cap it there where the refrig is, or if your camper is like mine and you can get to the main gas pipe underneath you could terminate it there and remove the line running to the refrig.

**JohnB** · 12-16-2019, 09:04 PM

To add to what phantom444e stated,

If your gas line is 3/8" copper tubing, this is the type of plug you would install up by the fridge area. If you plug it here in the cabinet, then if you want to or you sell it and the new owners wants to, put a gas fridge back in, the line is already there.

If the copper tubing is 3/8" OD and is a flare fitting, odds are this is the one.

But check the copper tubing first and make sure the fittings look like this. The Watts flare plug I bought at Lowes.

The plug itself. Other brands also make this plug.

Do a soapy water bubble check for gas leaks at the fitting after you plug it.

Hope this helps

John

mainah · 12-17-2019, 08:55 AM

There are two flare fittings one is a 37.5 degree the other is a 45* more that likely yours is a 45*X3/8". But to be sure hold it up to the fridge fitting that the copper line was attached to and see if the angles match. And yes no matter what it needs to be leak tested.

Nsmatt · 12-18-2019, 07:36 AM

Hi thank you all for replies appreciate your advice will approach this in spring ! Everyone have a wonderful holiday and happy new year ! P s my Saturn is a 1989 !
Sue