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03-28-2014, 07:45 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 148
SUN #824
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black tank valve
I need to replace the black tank gate valve on my trailer. It leaks a little. When I get to my location and take the cover off to attach my sewer hose, a little comes out. It seems to only leak during travel. I was wondering if anyone has experience with this and how difficult it is to remove the old valve. Do I need to cut it off? I assume the PVC glue is too tough to break.
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2006 T-267SR
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03-28-2014, 08:15 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Should have 4 small bolts holding it on.
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03-29-2014, 06:10 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 148
SUN #824
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Oh, if that's all then it shouldn't be bad. I'll have to get under there and look at it. It's still covered for winter.
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2006 T-267SR
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04-01-2014, 07:03 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Have you tried to spray the sliding gate with liquid silicon spray to lube it up? Spray some on the blade, work the blade back and forth and it may start sealing OR not. But a try before you tear into it.
The seals may be torn from a dry gate sliding on them. TI lube them 3 to 4 times a year (12 months of camping year) The dump fitting is a 3 piece sliding gate setup. See here. take the bolts out and the center comes out. Since the seals and or O rings might be EPDM, only use silicone lube or soap. Do not use a petroleum type product.
While my valve is in a different location then yours, the way most all of these work on the newer ones are the same.
Hope this helps
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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04-02-2014, 06:48 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 148
SUN #824
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Huge help. Thanks John. I have some silicon spray that I will try on it. I'll check it first to see if it has petroleum in it. It seems to only leak during travel and its just a small amount (like a half cup) but I figured I would take care of it.
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2006 T-267SR
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04-02-2014, 11:05 AM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Spray the silicone up inside the dump pipe to hit the sliding gate. I'm assuming yours are out in the open, not under a tank cover.
1/2 a cup is the time to address this. A little sewer leak if it turns bigger, well you get the gist.... You could always film an alternate scene for a future RV the Movie.... Robin Williams would be proud.
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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04-03-2014, 07:15 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 148
SUN #824
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Yikes! Definitely don't want to go there. If I have to remove it, does it require some sort of sealant to keep it from dripping between the connection?
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2006 T-267SR
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04-03-2014, 10:45 AM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpspaz
If I have to remove it, does it require some sort of sealant to keep it from dripping between the connection?
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I have not had to do one of these yet, as mine stopped the drip with the silicone spray. However…
Odds are high yours is made by Valterra, They have 2 molded elastomer glands that would fit into a molded groove and when the bolts are tightened , create an O ring type of fit. They compress and create a seal. Your blank tank is the 3" one
http://valterra.com/product-category/rv-products/aftermarket/sewer-sanitation/bladex-valve-seals/
These are not like a “gasket” where sometimes you need to add a gasket shellac to hold the gasket in place for assembly or to fill scratches/small voids in the sealing surfaces. (aka, Hi Tack, Form a gasket, Permatex etc) . In this case, if you did this, ever getting it apart again may not happen.
On an O ring type fit up the surfaces want to be dry and clean with no debris in or on the surfaces to start with. If the assembly process can be made where the O ring is not disturbed during assembly, dry often works well. If the O ring needs to be expanded to fit over a shaft etc. or be coaxed into a groove, then the “correct” light lube is used to not tear the O ring while installing. Correct meaning the lube does not affect the type of elastomer. Like using petroleum based lube on an EPDM material is a no no, it swells.
Since this is a water based application, if lube needs to be used, light soapy water works or liquid spray silicone (not RTV, silicone caulk). Caution on over doing the lube, the O ring or gasket can squirt right out of the groove if you over do it. For the dump valve, hold the piping away from the tank while installing the unit and then gently put the pipe back in place and evenly bolt up the 4 corners.
Once assembled, then lubing the blade to be slippery is not a problem as the seals are set and compressed in their grooves.
Good luck and hope this helps
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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04-05-2014, 09:26 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 148
SUN #824
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Thanks John. I'll post the results.
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