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Old 06-08-2020, 04:46 PM   #1
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Battery life

How long should a fully charged battery last with lp alarm active and radio active/no playing (clock and facelight visible) before it gets to one bar on the meter?
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Old 06-08-2020, 05:02 PM   #2
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First, we'd have to know what sort of meter "one bar on the meter" refers to.

Aside from that, technically we need to know the amp-hour rating of the battery and what the total current draw is. but generally speaking, with just those two loads, I would expect it to last for weeks.
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Old 06-10-2020, 09:34 PM   #3
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Hi Jim,

If you are referring to the battery red light monitor on the KIB tank panel display, I have found them to not be very accurate on battery life. A digital voltmeter reading on the battery is a lot better to tell you state of charge on the battery.

That said, if you leave battery disconnect on when the camper is in storage, the LP detector and the radio display is a load on the battery all the time as there is no off switch for them.

Those 2 loads being left on constantly can drain down a group 24 battery (the normal original Sunline battery) over a 1 to 2 week period depending on the health of the battery. You have to turn off the disconnect switch or unhook the negative cable off the battery if you do not have the disconnect switch to stop this. Your 2007 should have the disconnect switch.

Another power draining load is the roof TV antenna amplifier which can be accidently left on (the little green light is on the wall panel) and the worst is, the climate control left on the Dometic fridge even with the fridge turned off. These 2 extra DC loads will speed up the drain down of the battery.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:33 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info, John. I just put the new battery in and left the cut-off switch on deliberately to see how long the battery would last with the radio and propane detector circuits active. I wasn't looking for exact numbers, just a ballpark to judge how good the "new" battery was. This one lasted just over 2 weeks with that load. I got burned once buying a new battery at BJs that had a bad cell, which I didn't find out until boondocking at a race and the battery wouldn't last a full day. I also learned about the fridge climate switch and the antenna amplifier the hard way. Lol.
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Old 06-18-2020, 03:13 PM   #5
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Add to that,

I always had deep cycle batteries so when it does drain to near zero it doesn't damage the battery, whereas, a regular lead acid (car battery can result in damage if drained to low. Deep cycle batteries are designed for deep drainage
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Old 06-20-2020, 02:48 PM   #6
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Just reading through this. I installed a new battery on the trailer. It is a larger group so I hope that helps. I know changing all of my lights to LED made a big difference. Anyway, where is this climate control on the fridge? I could certainly see my way to turning that off when the trailer is not in use. Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2020, 02:57 PM   #7
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Mine is a small rocker switch located on the upper right top frame just outside when you open the freezer door.
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Old 06-21-2020, 07:27 AM   #8
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I have two group 24's on the hitch platform gives me 180 amps. I leave the camper plug in to a quality converter charger when not in use. One battery made it 4 years it's mate (a different brand is 7 years old). I have a small led voltmeter and a switch momentary on or stay on the resting voltage remains around 13.2 That gives me a good ideal of battery conditions. A good group 24 battery is around $100.
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Old 06-21-2020, 08:08 AM   #9
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I kept my last battery on trickle charger set up on the tongue all winter, but forgot check the water level. Filled it, but it wouldn't hold a strong charge. One reason I upgraded to AGM because it's maintenance free. Also went to a Group 27 since I have the room. I don't dry camp that often. Only once or twice a year.
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