Adjusting Water Heater Temperature

[johnnybgood]

Hi, I did a forum search and didn’t have much luck.

My hot water is scalding hot and I don’t know how to adjust it. Didn’t get any manuals with my 2000 T2370. From researching it seems there should be a knob on top but I don’t have that. Any help is greatly appreciated.....

[Draughty]

Looks like I have the same heater in my Advancer..I posted some pictures of it in my thread about leaking.
I will see what I have with me and post if I have on my phone otherwise it will be until I can get them from the binder at home.

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[Draughty]

Ok here's what I have with me.... hopefully these help a bit or can tell you what pages you need?
It looks like an Atwood like mine...

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[Draughty]

Here is the whole thing ..in English I didn't copy in the French pages...

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[Draughty]

Almost...too many pages these are the back two...

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[j52wf]

Looking at the diagrams and parts list, it looks like electronic ignition models do not have an adjustable thermostat. Only pilot light models have the thermostat knob. There is a plate there on the electronic ignition models.

[johnnybgood]

Thanks for going to all that trouble Draughty. Yes, mine looks exactly like yours. Do you find yours excessively hot?

[johnnybgood]

Originally Posted by j52wf

Looking at the diagrams and parts list, it looks like electronic ignition models do not have an adjustable thermostat. Only pilot light models have the thermostat knob. There is a plate there on the electronic ignition models.

That’s what I’m beginning to think. Thanks!

[Draughty]

I have yet to use mine!
Repaired the trailer all last summer and didn't know it had water in the heater so had a huge split in the tank...good news was that I have aluminum welders where I work and one of the guys patched the tank.
Got it back out and the bypass valves must have some micro splits in them from freezing so I now have replacement valves and plumbing supplies to finish the job.
Hoping that next weekend's trip gives a chance to see how hot it is! Haven't even been able to fire it up yet...
Maybe someone else has experience as I am curious as well!

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[Draughty]

Posting the pages is a good way to have reference available for myself as well!

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[JohnB]

Hi John,

This type of water heater is "not adjustable" from Atwood direct. You can see the words T Stat to the right in the pic



Atwood does offer an kit which is adjustable or use too. Goes from 115 to 150 I think.

But... Let's talk a little on this,

First, the standard T stat is set at 140F which by itself is very hot. Too hot by itself and they are counting on that. By going 140 it forces a mix of cold to create 115 or 120 whatever you want at the faucet. They claim the hot water supply will last longer by this method. The switch is suppose to cycle open at 140 and on cool down make closed again at 115F for reheat.

If you have something to measure the water temps coming out of the faucet and you are a lot above the 140F, then it could be a problem with the T stat.

The T stat is behind that foam cover. It is sort of stuck on there with adhesive. The T stat itself is a thermal disc switch mounts in a holder and rests up against the outside of the tank. Sometimes the mounting is loose and then the water gets hotter as the sensor is not touching like it should be.

OR the sensor may be starting to go bad. You can test it with a meter and a known heat source. A hot water pot on the stove with a thermometer in it and put the switch to the side of the pot with a meter or other test device to check continuity. Check the pot surface temp as the water may have to be a little hotter to trip the 140 at the outside of the pot.

OR you have a lot of hard water scale build up inside the tank. This heavy scale can insulate the tank depending on how built up it is. The sensor can be working right but it is not sensing the correct tank temp.

Atwood does allow a white vinegar boil out of the heater which can help in removing some of the scale . See here on the Atwood instructions uploaded in your files section. PDF page 5 lower right under "Flushing to remove unpleasant odor" They use 4 parts vinegar to 2 parts water however I would create a different method then taking the relief valve out to get the vinegar in. If you have a winterizing kit, pump it in.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/do...do=file&id=424

And here is U tube on it.

[Draughty]

John is winterizing what these tubes exiting the floorpan of the trailer are for?
I know one is a drain are they both or is one for suction?
Thanks,

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[johnnybgood]

Thank you all.




I'm getting a reading of 141 degrees from my faucet so it seems the thermostat is working correctly.


I am for sure going to do the vinegar tank flush. Thanks for the link!!

[shellynne24]

My water is the same I like it like that because I never run out of hot water I just add more cold to adjust the temp

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Draughty

John is winterizing what these tubes exiting the floorpan of the trailer are for?
I know one is a drain are they both or is one for suction?
Thanks,

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Hi Draughty,

The 2 tubes.... They are what is called your "low point drains". One for the hot water piping and one for the cold water piping. No suction.

While we call them, low point drains, they are more just drains. Open up all the faucets as air vents and a lot of the water will gravity drain out. Depending on the floor plan, they are "not" in the lowest spot but they drain a large part of the water out of the camper fresh water system downstream of the water pump.

If your floor plan has fresh water use on both sides or areas of the camper with a walk through aisle way in the middle, the water lines can go under the floor and pop back up on the other side. That down and up creates a trap and with the low point drains being above the floor that traped area does not drain unless you compress air blow it out. I only bring this up so folks do not get the idea, "I drained the camper using the low point drains" and come spring they have to deal with frozen pipes leaks. If you use the anti-freeze method for winterization the standing water will mostly get pushed out when you purge all the faucets/toilet. If you use the air blow method then it blows it out.

That said, I like the Sunline method of having valves inside the camper. Other brands do this a little cheaper, they have the down pipe outside the camper and they screw on a pipe cap. Then you have to crawl under the camper, unscrew the cap and when drained either put it back on or in safe place until the next time your going to use it.

I compress air blow out the camper starting right after the water pump. Custom piping mod to do that. Those drain valves work like a purge valve and you can hear it blowing water or gone dry with just air. They work well.

Hope this helps

John

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by johnnybgood

Thank you all.

I'm getting a reading of 141 degrees from my faucet so it seems the thermostat is working correctly.

I am for sure going to do the vinegar tank flush. Thanks for the link!!

Hi John,

Let us know how the vinegar flush works out. I was thinking of putting a large bucket under the heater drain area to catch some the boiled out crud just to see what actually came out. I was also thinking of trying to take pics scoping the inside with my borescope before and after to see if I can tell the difference visually.

To date I do not recall us having a post on folks doing this. Between the 2 of use maybe we can create one.

Good to know your water temp is within spec. At least you know it is working the way it was intended and can compensate accordingly.

Thanks

John

[Draughty]

Scoping the tank is an interesting idea!
Thanks all the information helps and we are all making progress I think!
I did take pictures when I had the tank out and am posting them here. I believe the thermostat coupling is under the black foam tape and identified as such. There are a couple of sensors that may be fill level or something I haven't really gotten far enough to check.


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[JohnB]

Some history on Atwood water heater controls. In the 2003 time frame they changed the controls.

Prior to the 2003 change, the "gas" operation T stat and ECO (energy cut off ) sensor for the gas valve was on the burner side of the heater outside the camper.
Looks like this:


The "electric element" heating option was sort of a stand alone system and used a T stat and ECO (energy cut off) sensor for the ele element on the non burner side of the heater inside the camper. Looks like this:


So there are 2, T stats and 2 ECO's on the pre 2003 design.

The post 2003 new/latest design only uses one T stat and one ECO sensor for the gas valve which it located at the outside of the camper. Almost looks likes the pre 2003 design but the control board is different. This single T stat sensor creates a call for temp signal to the control board if the heater is turned on. The gas valve still has its own and ECO gas valve sensor. When there is a call for heat on either gas or electric the control board will turn on the gas valve if gas is selected and turn on a relay on the back side of the heater to turn on the 120 VAC element if it is selected. Both can run at once and be OK just like the pre 2003 design but controlled different. Looks like this

The outside of the camper view on a post 2003 new design heater


The back side, inside the camper view on a post 2003 new design heater




To this:

Originally Posted by Draughty

Scoping the tank is an interesting idea!
Thanks all the information helps and we are all making progress I think!

I did take pictures when I had the tank out and am posting them here. I believe the thermostat coupling is under the black foam tape and identified as such. There are a couple of sensors that may be fill level or something I haven't really gotten far enough to check.
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Now explained, there are no fill sensors. You can easily and quickly burn out electric element with no water in the heater.... And the gas burner running a length of time with no water is not good either... Atwood trusts you know there is water inside before to try and heat it...

If you have the electric option and you do, look in the breaker box. There should be a dedicated 15 amp breaker just for the water heater. Suggest you adopt a mandated procedure, when you drain the hot water heater, turn off that breaker at the same time. When you fill the heater with water and want to use the electric element, turn on the breaker and you can then leave it on until you once again drain it. It is way too easy to "forget" and poof your element is gone in less than 60 seconds. We have history repeating itself often on this subject...

Just look at all this new stuff you are now understanding about your camper!

Trust me, the learning never ends... but it does slow down. The more stuff you fix the more you learn. You really do not learn a lot with everything working perfect! And on an RV, working perfect is not forever...

Hope this helps

John

[Draughty]

That is amazing history!
Yes I learned a great deal including the electric element portion!
Good idea shutting off the breaker when it is drained!
Simple and effective procedure to prevent issues!


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[Draughty]

First use of the hot water and it is indeed quite hot..we had the heads up from here however so we were not surprised.
Haven't tried a shower yet but sure was nice to have hot water to wash dishes!

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