Originally Posted by Robandash
i put a parts list together,obviously cant put down the exact amount of wood or insulation or luan.but is there anything that i would need special ordered?i got 1/4 staples and will get new screws(stainless or a different option better in this application?)ill try to keep track of materials and tools used as well as take pictures and try to do a step by step thread.
Oh ya around the windows what is the sealant used?im starting an amazon order of the definates like dicor for the roof,if it all is in good shape probably eternabond tape.and forgive my ignorance but what is the hard bead in the corners between the walls and ceiling?is that a caulking or what is it.
The soft spot under the window points to a putty tape seal failure between the outside window flange and the siding. Putty tape over time, and sun exposure, breaks down. It starts to shrink first. Then from the shrink, it starts to crack and separate from either the siding, the window or both. In time, the crack separations grow long enough there is an air path from the outside of the camper to the inside. When rain water or worse, towing in the rain, the wind beats water into those crack splits and over time works its way into the wall. When you take yours apart, look at the siding and the window flange. Look for traces of dirt trails and black dirt covered putty tape.
Here is a classic corner molding putty tape failure. The windows, doors etc all have the same problem.
The siding after the corner molding is removed.
The molding, after it is removed from the siding.
The black stuff on the gray putty tape is dirt and mold in a putty tape crack. It got in there when the putty tape separated from the molding or the siding. Then over time wind and dirt blew in the crack.
In the first pic of the siding, you can see the light dirt trail across the white siding the full width of the putty tape. There is no sealing tape left bonded to the siding. Water and dirt now blew into the corner and then into the camper wall. This happens on any siding seal of anything that is sealed with putty tape. When you take the camper apart, look for this.
Here is a close up showing the dirt path all the way across the molding into the corner opening.
Here is a closer pic of the dirt trail across the entire width of the molding.
On some parts that may need to be ordered,
On screws, Sunline used no. 8 x 1” long, hex head, painted hardened steel self-taping sheet metal screws. That thread profile works well on sheet metal and soft wood like we have in the camper.
On my restoration work, I switched to all stainless fasteners on the outside and I tweaked the heads and screw lengths. The painted, hardened screws will work, and odds are they will last as long as the camper will if you put new ones in. I found a place on how to buy stainless a lot more practical than buying 3 screws in a plastic bag at the big box stores. Find a commercial fastener place and get them by the box or bulk.
I use Albany County Fasteners on line. https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/
I changed the screw to be, no. 8 x 1 1/2” lg., pan head, no. 2 square bit drive, 304 stainless. These, https://www.albanycountyfasteners.co...-p/3290000.htm
They have them in various lengths and qty’s. If you get a box of 100 count, they are $0.09 each. Since I am doing several total camper restorations, I get them by the 1,000 count, even cheaper.
White head screws for inside around the window frames. Many can be thread rusted from being inside a wet wall. These are no 8 x 1, pan head, no 2 bit/Philips combo RV screws. AP products sells them. They also sell the hex head white ones like Sunline used outside. Here is their product sheet, then search from who to buy from.
I have bought some from RecPro in Elkhart. These, pick you qty,
Butyl sealing tape for under all the flange seals on the walls, roof etc. I use this in place of the putty tape Sunline used. It costs a little more, is a little more pain in the neck to us, but lasts many times longer. The brand I use is 20 plus year rated. I have searched and found this brand to be good. I have been burnt on buying butyl tape from RV places with no name brand on it. Now I shop at commercial roofing places that sell to customers using metal roofs and siding. They use a lot of butyl as they want/need it to last 20 plus years.
I use the GSSI brand type MB-10A. 1” wide x 1/8” thick. 50 ft rolls. I buy it from Best Materials in AZ. https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19987
You can buy, by the roll or case of 10 rolls a little cheaper. You may only need 1 or 2 rolls for only a back wall. They know how to ship this kind of product and pack it correctly as they are roof product suppliers and know the products they are shipping. I gave up on Amazon and other RV online places by the roll as most times it all comes damaged.
I also get a lot of my Eternabond from Best Materials.
Your 5 red DOT lights across the top back of the camper. These often develop cracks and let water in. Check yours. Bargmen discontinued that style. I have found these which are an exact fit to the Bargmen 68 lights. Just they do not come with screws. I changed all the screws to stainless anyway.
The red ones
The amber ones
I also drill 2 small holes in the bottom of them. If and when they crack, the water will drain out verses drain into the camper. See here. If you can’t see the holes, let me know I add red circles at them.
When you finished putting the camper back together, consider adding a secondary seal over the top of the exposed butyl tape at all the siding flange seals. I use 2 different products for this now, and both work very well. These stop the dirt from sticking to the exposed butyl and most important, create a secondary seal in addition to the butyl. Those flanges are not going to leak after this. And you can see the secondary seal if it starts to break down, and address, while the butyl under it is still pristine.
See this post for how to apply the Dicor non sag, non leveling caulk. This is the same product that you use on the roof, just not self-leveling like you do on the roof. You can use this on the roof, just you have to smooth it out yourself. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...tml#post137746
After learning how to put down the Dicor non sag caulk, this year I found and started testing RV Pro Flex white. This stuff https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pr...xible-sealant/
I found you apply it just like I did the Dicro in the post above. Use the same tricks on how to put it on including the soapy finger. I find the Proflex is actually easier to use, smooths out easier too. Just do not put down more than 3 to 4 feet in length or it will tack up too much and not spread out. The Proflex comes off like the Dicor, use a heat gun and plastic scrapers, then mineral spirits. It does come off a little harder then the Dicor. Odds are high it will become my new “go to” siding caulk. I just wish I had the same years of testing on it like I have with the Dicor. You cannot use the Proflex on the rubber roof. It will breakdown the rubber. But anywhere on the sides of the camper, and to plastic, metal is OK.
I suggest once you’re done caulking the area you repaired, clean up all the other openings and moldings sealant on the camper to get the mold off, and then caulk seal them up. While the old putty tape is underneath, the caulk will stop any cracks from becoming leaks. If you have time, or do piecemeal, you can pull each window/door etc. reset the putty tape with butyl and reseal. But short of doing that, just putting one of those 2 caulks on a “clean” surface will help make the camper last many years longer for not a lot of effort. A clean prepped surface is a must for it to last. Do every penetration into the siding. The fridge vents, furnace water heater too. Just take the furnace and water heater cover off first, do not seal the cover shut, only the flange of the appliance to the siding.
The plastic membrane under the camper. This will have lots of staple holes in it and maybe some tears from the repair process. I fix this with Flex Mend belly report tape. They use in on mobile homes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you do not want to spend that much for a roll, Gorilla tape (must be Gorilla brand) is second best. It is not as good in lasting permanent like the flex mend, but is cheaper since you will not use the whole Flex Mend roll. To make Flex Mend permanent, gently warm it with low heat, (heat gun or hair dryer) and press frim. Put a stiff backer behind it, if it is out in the open. It will set the sealant tight. It also helps the Gorilla tape. Both “must” have a clean surface to stick too. I use a high flash cleaner like Naphtha to clean the old plastic sheet with before applying and let it dry totally. Rubbing alcohol will also work in a pinch.
The stuff that is all over the inside of the camper up in the corners and around counters and cabinets, this is called “welt bead”. Looks like this, just maybe not that color. Is this what you are talking about?
Odds exist depending on how bad the wall is, you may need to use some of this. Technically you can take off the old stuff and reuse, as long as you do not damage it in the process. Sunline stapled this stuff down like there was no shortage of staples, ever…
It is a hollow vinyl tube with a flap attached to it. The flap is stapled to the wall stud or cabinet where you cannot see it. The hollow tube you see. This bead covers up the crack seam. That seam expands and contracts over time and towing. The bead makes it look pretty all the time.
See Ebay for it. It comes in different colors and sizes. Match up what is in yours.
These folks seem to have 32 colors and sell it by the yard making it more practical.
That should get you close to the stuff that is not at the lumber yards. Start now, looking for 1/8” paneling or what you are going to use on the walls. You don’t have to buy it now, just hunt where to get it.
Hope this helps