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Old 08-01-2020, 11:27 AM   #61
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Wow, that is one old furnace..

I tried to find a service manual for it for you, but I can't find one old enough. I can find a HF-77, but not back to the HF-16.

I have not seen one with a blower control like that one. Even on the old all gas ones. Most of then still have a sail switch (fan blowing on a switch blade, blowing air turns switch on) and an over temp thermal disk switch to shut the burner down from over heating, the blower runs before the flame starts on this type. In your case, the burner runs then the fan turns on and there does not appear to have a sail switch.

You did a great job getting it going. Did you ever find any manual etc for it?

We had a member hear a while back with his truck camper furnace, but it had a different model furnace. Here is that thread as FYI https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...nace-8904.html

Not sure you can get parts still for yours if the gas valve or burner goes out. I may be possible, one of the newer furnaces may be adapted to fit in your space.
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:47 AM   #62
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Maybe this will help.
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:47 AM   #63
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:48 AM   #64
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:48 AM   #65
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:32 PM   #66
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Hi Robborn,

Thanks, that is helpful. However that is a 70 & 80 series furnace. It is different then what Kxracer704 has, but again, your info is great. Finding intact old literature on the appliances is not easy or exists on the web. Our forum is a self help group now for Sunlines since the factory closed down. By the way, if you need a service manual on yours, that one I could find. Let me know if you need it.

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Old 08-21-2020, 10:42 AM   #67
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Old 08-22-2020, 09:49 AM   #68
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Looking good Jay! Thanks for sharing.

I'll pass along this tip in case you need it someday, I see for smoothing out silicone you were using the silicone flexible spreader. I have one of them too. They work fairly well over anything else I ever used before.

I have since learned from a fellow maintenance buddy that to tool out, ( spread out) silicone is to use a wet finger with Windex glass cleaner on it. Something in the Windex that makes it not stick to your finger. I tried it, and it for sure works. No messy finger. Have no idea how that figured that out, but it does work.

On your shower walls, what was your plan for wall water protection? I know some of the older travel trailers have the luan wallboard with vinyl wall paper on them, but it wasn't the greatest over time if a tear etc got in it. Some have used the plastic FRP panels out of the lumber yard glued to the wall and then sealed the joints.

On the spray foam for the shower basin, your foam concept was good, just the wrong foam product. We built a new house a few years ago and have a large 3' x 4 ft shower basin. It was all built in, ceramic tiled in by the builder. When we went to step in it, the basin started to crack and make real bad banging sounds. Complained and they sent out a repair service guy who specialized in repairing cracked showers, bath tubs, hot tubes etc. He used a Dow product made especially for support under the shower basin. He used a long hose and pumped it in from the basement were the drain came through and pumped it in. I was shocked watching him do this. He filled the entire air space between the bottom of the floor and the underside of the shower. This foam stiffened up once cured. The shower is now solid as a rock inside. If you ever end up needing the name of that foam, let me know I'll hunt for the pic of it. It saved the day or they would have to rip everything apart to change the basin.

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Old 08-24-2020, 08:10 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Looking good Jay! Thanks for sharing.

I'll pass along this tip in case you need it someday, I see for smoothing out silicone you were using the silicone flexible spreader. I have one of them too. They work fairly well over anything else I ever used before.

I have since learned from a fellow maintenance buddy that to tool out, ( spread out) silicone is to use a wet finger with Windex glass cleaner on it. Something in the Windex that makes it not stick to your finger. I tried it, and it for sure works. No messy finger. Have no idea how that figured that out, but it does work.

On your shower walls, what was your plan for wall water protection? I know some of the older travel trailers have the luan wallboard with vinyl wall paper on them, but it wasn't the greatest over time if a tear etc got in it. Some have used the plastic FRP panels out of the lumber yard glued to the wall and then sealed the joints.

On the spray foam for the shower basin, your foam concept was good, just the wrong foam product. We built a new house a few years ago and have a large 3' x 4 ft shower basin. It was all built in, ceramic tiled in by the builder. When we went to step in it, the basin started to crack and make real bad banging sounds. Complained and they sent out a repair service guy who specialized in repairing cracked showers, bath tubs, hot tubes etc. He used a Dow product made especially for support under the shower basin. He used a long hose and pumped it in from the basement were the drain came through and pumped it in. I was shocked watching him do this. He filled the entire air space between the bottom of the floor and the underside of the shower. This foam stiffened up once cured. The shower is now solid as a rock inside. If you ever end up needing the name of that foam, let me know I'll hunt for the pic of it. It saved the day or they would have to rip everything apart to change the basin.

John
Thanks for the tip.
Unfortunately, the shower pan is installed and I do not want to dissemble the walls to redo everything.

For the shower walls we purchased frp panels from Home Depot. They are made by Glasliner and they are 0.090” thick. We are currently working on cutting and fitting the custom walls pieces with all of the corner trim. Then once dry fit, we will glue them in with liquid nails 310 FRP glue. I did glue a few test pieces to make sure the frp would glue nicely to the luan panel, which it did. So now it’s just getting all of the panels fit and glued. Tricky process. After all of the walls are installed, I plan to use white 100% silicone GE2+ for all of the seams in addition to the corner trim pieces.
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Old 08-24-2020, 02:57 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kxracer704 View Post
Thanks for the tip.
Unfortunately, the shower pan is installed and I do not want to dissemble the walls to redo everything.
In the event you have an issue, if needed (not saying you have to), you could pump in the foam made to do this with the shower basin in place. If there is room around the drain pipe, you can sneak the pump hose in that way. Or drill a ~ 1" hole in the floor under the camper drilling up, and push the hose up into the air space between the floor and the bottom of the basin. The hose was about 1/4" OD plastic flexible tubing. That is how they fixed my shower, pumped it in with the basin in place through the drain pipe hole.

That will solve the support issue if you need to do it. The downside, it may make taking the basin out if you ever had to more complex as the foam is stuck to the floor and the basin.

Your FRP shower walls sounds good. The silicone for the large caulking, I do use silicone on our camper shower sliding door/screen rail. This seals the sliding door rail to the basin. But not around the 3 side walls. I have had to replace my seal 3 twice as it lifted on one corner. I cleaned it out and replaced again with silicone the first and last time. I did try and iteration of other caulk in the middle time, and that did not work out, worse then the silicone. If this was on the "outside" of the camper, I would suggest to "not" use the silicone as on the outside of the camper, it really does not hold up a long time with all the flexing of a travel trailer and the other outdoors conditions.

Yours is a truck camper and the flexing will be less as the truck is doing most all the flexing work which is a good thing. I do not know of anything better to suggest for the inside the at the shower. The Silicone will work, just keep an eye on the corners if you see it separating in about 3 to 4 years.

Also. suggest to not seal the walls to the basin along the long sides. Use about a 1" overlap of the walls over the basin lip that yours has so all water runs from wall into the basin and no caulk. The flexing of the basin on the Styrofoam by standing on it will crack the seal over time between the walls and the basin if it is caulked all the way around. This comes up often on the travel trailers. They made the shower basin have a 1" tall splash lip and the walls to not seal to that splash lip. Some folks see the 1/6" to 1/8" gap at the bottom of the wall and think it is like a home shower and leak and they caulk it. After a year or two, the caulk would separate from the flexing. If I confused this with words, let me know I'll do it in pics.
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Old 08-27-2020, 08:10 AM   #71
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John,
I am still able to access the under belly of the shower if I drill thru the btm of the side bathroom wall. I would like to add the spray foam/support you recommend for the shower. What is the material you recommend for this? The only thing is, if I spray the new foam support under the shower pan, it will be between the existing “great stuff” flexible foam and the plywood floor of the camper. So there still may be some flex in the shower pan because the great stuff is what is making contact with the pan whether I add the new foam or not. But I figure adding the more sturdy foam certainly is only going to help the situation. My only other concern is, I want to make sure this new spray foam will not have strong expansion properties. If it does, it will crack my screwed in place shower pan.
Ps: I already stepped on the corner of the pn and cracked it where there was an existing fix from previous owner. I showed this in one of my videos. I’ll have to fix this.

For the caulking on the seams, I hear what your saying about the flex, but the frp walls are already cut. The frp walls with the trim will be tricky to incorporate an overlap overtop of the shower pan lip. I will see how the frp walls installation goes, but as of now, I’m going to just silicone the seams (butt joint) and worst case, redo the sealant annually when it cracks.
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Old 08-28-2020, 08:34 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kxracer704 View Post
John,
I am still able to access the under belly of the shower if I drill thru the btm of the side bathroom wall. I would like to add the spray foam/support you recommend for the shower. What is the material you recommend for this? The only thing is, if I spray the new foam support under the shower pan, it will be between the existing “great stuff” flexible foam and the plywood floor of the camper. So there still may be some flex in the shower pan because the great stuff is what is making contact with the pan whether I add the new foam or not. But I figure adding the more sturdy foam certainly is only going to help the situation. My only other concern is, I want to make sure this new spray foam will not have strong expansion properties. If it does, it will crack my screwed in place shower pan.
Ps: I already stepped on the corner of the pn and cracked it where there was an existing fix from previous owner. I showed this in one of my videos. I’ll have to fix this.
Hi Jay,

Here is what the service guy used to fix or creaking/cracking new shower basin. The basin was 58" x 40". A big one.

The product is Dow Froth-Pak. It comes in different volume amounts. He brought the Froth-Pak 12 kit. 12 I believe is the sq ft the kit will cover.





He used a rigid piece of 1/4" PEX (yes, 1/4") piping so he could stuff the tube all the way into the far corner and spray the foam in. He slowly withdrew the tube. Once filled to the center drain hole of the basin, he stuck the tube in the opposite corner and pump and filled to the center. He did that process on all 4 corners. He went real slow on the tube withdraw speed. I think why, too fast would create air pockets, too slow too much goop would fall out of the hole where the tube went in. He had done this many times before and knew just the right speed to pump it in and fill the entire space between the floor and the bottom of the basin.

He put down a drop cloth on the floor in our basement to collect any mess that plopped out. After the foam cured on the ground, I felt it. This foam is much more stiff then the Great Stuff spray can foam. It is denser which must be why it creates enough support over a large area. The foam does expand, in my case, the expansion force never moved the shower basin and that is a lot of sq inches area it filled.

For you, it should fill every available place it can get to on the bottom of your basin, to the floor even over the Great Stuff. Granted you can't get the Great Stuff out that is in there, but any exposed basin bottom will have support. Your learning curve is how fast/slow do you pull the spray hose out so you put the right amount of foam in to make sure it fills the entire space but not over do it. Maybe try a test blast out in the open to see how it reacts.

Something else to consider, if you ever have to get to the drain pipe connection to change the drain flange, the foam will be all over it. In my case, he filled the shower basin from the center drain hole in the house floor. When all was done, he trimmed the excess foam away from the fitting so you could change the drain fitting in the future if needed. In your case, with filling the foam from the side, maybe at the drain pipe you stuff some aluminum flashing or other material to create a pipe chase/conduit etc around the drain fittings, so the foam does not cover the pipe up for future access.

Here is some links to literature I found on the Froth Pak
A video on what is in the Forth-Pak Kit https://youtu.be/VLg-VerzwBU

The Dow website on it
https://www.greatstuff.dupont.com/pr...m-sealant.html

They sell it at Lowes and other lumber yards
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-FROTH-P...n-Kit/50301963

Suggest buying it at the store verses buying it off Amazon or on line. The material is I believe declared a hazard material and the freight will be very expensive.

I have never tried using this stuff myself. Consider this an "experiment" on your part and do a test something before heading to the camper. Test both the expansion force and how much time it needs to fill the gap between the floor and the bottom of the basin.

Hope this helps and for sure, if you do this, let us know how it comes out.

John
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Old 08-28-2020, 08:51 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kxracer704 View Post
For the caulking on the seams, I hear what your saying about the flex, but the frp walls are already cut. The frp walls with the trim will be tricky to incorporate an overlap overtop of the shower pan lip. I will see how the frp walls installation goes, but as of now, I’m going to just silicone the seams (butt joint) and worst case, redo the sealant annually when it cracks.
Here is a thought you may be able to expand on.

For the FRP walls to the basin, I'm assuming you will butt joint fit that. FRP to the top of the shower basin at your stainless screw heads area.

Maybe create your own overlap joint. Rip a 2" wide strip of FRP to create a lap joint. Add a filler/spacer behind it as needed to get the strip over the top of the screw heads. 1" of the strip up on the FRP panel, 1" of the strip hangs down over the basin and the basin screws which are hidden behind it. You can bond the strip and shim to the FRP wall panel and it is not connected the basin. All wall water then flow over the top of the strip on the way to the basin. For sure caulk the FRP to the basin like you are doing, so you have double the seal behind the strip.

You can do that from the get go, or do it after if the flexing gap becomes a problem. The good news, you are now well trained to look for leaks in a camper... The rebuilding work/pain is too great to not be looking. Every time before showering, take a quick look and see if a caulk crack shows up. Then decide what to do. Shower now, or wait until you can address it.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 09-14-2020, 11:18 AM   #74
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FRP panels are finally installed. It was time consuming due to all of the corners in the bathroom.
Next process we have started is cleaning the old painted aluminum siding. We would like to try and preserve the original paint/patina if possible. Does anyone have any recommendations on cleaning and possibly applying a protective coating to the existing paint? I was thinking possibly a spray wax after the panels are cleaned.

The paint is chalky now and dirty with mold for sitting for years. The process we have started is power washing, then scrubbing with dawn dish soap and a scrub brush.
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Old 09-17-2020, 08:47 AM   #75
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I can pass this along, not sure if it will help as your siding is a lot older with baked on crud for a really long time.

On the newer campers with the white Krystal Kote siding, I have been able to de-crud 12 year old baked on curd white siding to come back to really nice looking. I had my best luck doing this with the siding off the camper, laying flat on a work bench. You can do this on the camper too, it just takes more effort.

1. Siding laying flat on the bench or saw horses. Inside, out of the sun. (High heat and sun can totally change the outcome.)

2. With a squirty water bottle, mist wet coat the siding piece you are working on. Only do 1 piece at a time, everything dries up too fast if not.

3. Using LA's Totally Awesome cleaner (find at Dollar General) spray full strength on the siding. Let it soak about 2 to 3 minutes. Do not let it dry on, that is too long.

4. Using Mr. Clean magic eraser, light scrub on the siding with the Awesome. The crud will come up brown and foamy yuk.

5. As soon as you are done with the magic eraser, paper towel wipe off all the crud.

6. A soon as you wipe the crud off, clean water mist spray to rinse/remove any residual cleaner. Paper towel dry.


I was shocked this work so well. Something about being flat and out of the sun really changed how effective and fast this was. I did this last winter in my barn. It also worked on the white decal siding piece that does not have Krystal Kote. Just do not use the awesome or magic erase on the decals.

I found it so much easier and faster to clean the siding off the camper, then to install it dirty. And then try and clean it up on the camper outdoors with a water hose and car mop.

Suggest if you use this approach, try it on a small test area first. Repeat if needed on stubborn stains.

On the question on what can you add to help protect the paint once it is cleaned up? I have never done this but heard of others doing it. Use automotive clear coat.

Hope this helps and let us know if you tried it and the outcome.
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Old 09-17-2020, 04:01 PM   #76
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I’ve had bad experiences using Totally Awesome on paint. Tried it on aluminum house gutters and took it down to bare aluminum.

Like John said, Totally Awesome with a Magic Eraser works great on Sunlines with the Krystal Kote. My old 1998 T-1700 looked almost brand new after a bunch of labor intensive hours.

Not sure what year Sunline started the Krystal Kote.
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:37 PM   #77
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Ditto on Totally Awesome eating paint; happened to me while doing a severe scrubbing on my camper. I believe it has [had] Krystal Kote.

Having said that, it was my own fault for not following John's instructions rigorously. It's a powerful cleaner and can serve you well if you treat it with respect. Keeping it in my arsenal.
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Old 09-19-2020, 10:03 AM   #78
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Bathroom and Plumbing - Truck Camper Build Part 17

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Old 09-19-2020, 05:50 PM   #79
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Looking good!

Your gaining. Keep up the good work.

John
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Old 09-27-2020, 10:17 AM   #80
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BLINDED BY THE WHITE - Truck Camper Build Part 18

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