Late 70s 11FKS Build

[JohnB]

Great job on the ceiling and rafters!

Keep the detail of the old Sunline coming too. It is very interesting to see how the methods have changed over the years.

It looks like you "just" snuck through the overhead door with the rafters on. That was good so you can keep on going inside.

I'll pass along this info so you have it when the time comes to install siding, roofing, roof hatches, windows, corner moldings, doors basically anything in the siding or your metal roof. Or rubber roof if you are converting.

Sunline and most in the RV industry at the time, used what it called "putty tape" on the flanges of setting a window or door etc. Yes it works, but it also dries out overtime, shrinks and then creates cracks in the sealant that over time create leaks to the inside.

On all my camper restorations, I have changed the sealing materials to better quality and longer lasting. And changed the methods too. There is a slight upcharge in material cost, and it takes a little longer to apply, but it will last. As you well know, the effort in doing a total rebuild or even a major portion rebuild is a lot of work and pain. Spending another $50 to $100 in better materials on an entire camper that has a chance at 20 years plus life, is a very good investment.

Most of this I took from the steel building industry where they do not want any leaks in a major building.

First, replace the putty tape with high quality known name brand butyl sealing tape. If you go to the store and see rolls of it out on a shelf with no brand name, I would not get it. Been burned by that before. In your situation of doing an entire camper, I suggest you buy it by the case like I do as it is cheaper and it ships better. Buying it off of Amazon or other masss sellers, in a roll or two, your odds are against you that it will arrive damaged. Been there and found out the hard way.

If you have a commercial steel building supply store, you can use them. If you want to order it online, this is where I buy it, by the case or the roll. This roofing supplier knows how to pack butyl tape and have it arrive undamaged.

Here is their main site, They are out of Phoenix. https://www.bestmaterials.com/

Here is most of the GSSI brand butyl https://www.bestmaterials.com/Search...nufacturer=108

This is the case of 1" wide. https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=18944

This is a case of 3/4" wide. https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=21788

I use a combo of 1" and 3/4". I can stack the 3/4 next to the 1" to make it wider and when filling in corrugations low spots, there is less trim waste using the 3/4". I mainly use the 1" wide x 1/8" thick.

This is the GSSI website where they have the spec on the MB-10A butyl that I use. http://www.gssisealants.com/products/

You will also see there is easy trim butyl made for the RV industry. I called them and talked to their tech service about which one of their products lasted the longest used on a RV that lives outside. He stated the MB-10A is their best product, used mainly on commercial steel buildings. To make it trim easier for the RV manufacturer, they have take away some of the bonding agents to make it trim easier. It is still good but the MB-10A will last longer.

The downside to buying it from Best Materials is the freight cost. It ships UPS or FedEx but the shipping cost comes close to doubles the cost. I still buy it after being burned so many times trying to get it from high volume RV supplies places, that the cost to arrive at my house is not a lot different but I get known high quality undamage. This is where if you have a local steel building place or roofing supply house, check them as it may be cheaper for high quality butyl due to less freight.

Here are some links to pics of how I apply the butyl. I add extra above what was originally used to better seal over the corrugated siding.

Cleaning up moldings and windows and presping for install with the butyl
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post131768

Roof parts with butyl
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post131985

Corner molding with butyl
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post131986

On the siding on the front of the camper exposed to the wind while towing, Sunline on the later models started to put butyl caulk in the siding joints. This is only on the front wall. They must of found that driving rain, wind with rain can work it's way in the front wall. This link shows the caulking of the front siding. Best Materials has that caulk but Amazon did also I believe.
Fronmt https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post130979

After you get the camper all done, and use it for a time or too in the hot sun, you will notice the butyl tape will ozz a little out the joints. This is normal and will stop after the first time or so. Just trim it off.

I go back then, sometimes at the end of the camper rebuild or a year later, and then caulk every penetration sealed with butyl as a second layer of protection. I have used Dicor non sag caulk and now also use Geocel Proflex RV. The Proflex I find can be applied smoother. There is a learning curve on how to apply. This post will give you some pointers. The post is made for Dicor, but I use the same procedure on the Proflex including the soapy wet finger.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post137746

NOTE: The Proflex is not rated for rubber roofing but is for metal roofing. If you convert to a rubber roof, you need to use the Dirco. If you apply the caulk a while after the rebuild, then you have to clean the exposed butyl before caulking. A clean prepped surface is a must.

Hope this helps and keep the good work going! Thanks again for sharing

John

[Kxracer704]

Thank you John! I was planning on asking all of the questions you covered in the previous post. Obviously We are not at the exterior sealing stage of the build yet, when we are ready for that part of the project I will reference all of the links your posted.

Note: My plan is to keep the existing alum roof.

I am currently assessing the bathroom and sewer system.

[Kxracer704]

We have run into a problem today. The "black tank" has 2 leaks after filling it with fresh water to check for leaks. There is a small crack at the top edge and a large leak at the flange connecting the first sewage pipe. (Leaks circled in black marker in photos).

I would like to do anything possible to fix this shower pan/toilet/sewage tank. That being said the material is a type of plastic, possibly ABS. Would anyone be able to confirm the material type that was used for 1977 era sewage tanks on these campers? I need to figure out the material prior to researching the leak fix.

If we cannot fix this sewage tank leak, this build may take an expensive/time consuming turn for the worse.

Any help would be great.
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[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Kxracer704

We have run into a problem today. The "black tank" has 2 leaks after filling it with fresh water to check for leaks. There is a small crack at the top edge and a large leak at the flange connecting the first sewage pipe. (Leaks circled in black marker in photos).

I would like to do anything possible to fix this shower pan/toilet/sewage tank. That being said the material is a type of plastic, possibly ABS. Would anyone be able to confirm the material type that was used for 1977 era sewage tanks on these campers? I need to figure out the material prior to researching the leak fix.

Your pics suggest and help increase the odds, those tanks are ABS plastic. The black pipes on the bottom are ABS and the fitting is bonded to the tank would be ABS as well.

But, it appears someone put a PVC pipe coupling with purple primer on it on the tank vent. And maybe spray painted the bottom of the tank vent pipe. Does that vent pipe go into a rubber grommet in the tank, or is it welded into the tank? There are the 2 ways of doing vent pipe to the tank, rubber grommet or weld it right in.

It was common to use ABS plastic for shower basins, sinks, drain plumbing and black and gray holding tanks to name a few. The parts could be white in color like your basin that may have turned very yellow over time from sun exposure. That also helps indicate it can be ABS. The ABS can be white or black, color alone is not an indicator.

We have had several members do cracked black tank repair. I have also done it on camper fender skirts and door benzels. There are at least 2 ways to do this. Solvent welding or using resin add on kits we have had members do.

The solvent weld method, below are links on it. For your kind of cracks, you will need to V out the crack so you can get into the crack deeper with the repair, not just lay it on the surface. It also must have 3 coats and to cure a day between coats. Getting it from both sides is best if you can reach down in the tank and put the solvent on the inside too. A dremel tool or a small cutter bit in a drill will help V out the crack. Also if a crack is running, drill a small hole in the end of the crack, about 1/16 to 3/32" and then fill it later with solvent weld. It will help stop the crack from running later.

You can test the plastic that it is ABS. In an out of the way tiny spot, grind down a small divot. Then use the ABS weld mixture to fill the divot. Come back a day later and it should be hard and well bonded.

Here is the solvent method by member Frank. He taught it to me.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-10514.html

And here I used it on door benzel's which are white ABS. I have also have done white ABS fenders like this too.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-18665.html

Here is a thread on the resin kit called Plasti-mend
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-14865.html

Hope this helps

John

PS. If you want the yellow looking tank on top where you see it to be white again, there is a painting method being talked about on ABS plastic. Let me know and I'll find it and explain more if you want to try it.

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Your pics suggest and help increase the odds, those tanks are ABS plastic. The black pipes on the bottom are ABS and the fitting is bonded to the tank would be ABS as well.

But, it appears someone put a PVC pipe coupling with purple primer on it on the tank vent. And maybe spray painted the bottom of the tank vent pipe. Does that vent pipe go into a rubber grommet in the tank, or is it welded into the tank? There are the 2 ways of doing vent pipe to the tank, rubber grommet or weld it right in.

It was common to use ABS plastic for shower basins, sinks, drain plumbing and black and gray holding tanks to name a few. The parts could be white in color like your basin that may have turned very yellow over time from sun exposure. That also helps indicate it can be ABS. The ABS can be white or black, color alone is not an indicator.

We have had several members do cracked black tank repair. I have also done it on camper fender skirts and door benzels. There are at least 2 ways to do this. Solvent welding or using resin add on kits we have had members do.

The solvent weld method, below are links on it. For your kind of cracks, you will need to V out the crack so you can get into the crack deeper with the repair, not just lay it on the surface. It also must have 3 coats and to cure a day between coats. Getting it from both sides is best if you can reach down in the tank and put the solvent on the inside too. A dremel tool or a small cutter bit in a drill will help V out the crack. Also if a crack is running, drill a small hole in the end of the crack, about 1/16 to 3/32" and then fill it later with solvent weld. It will help stop the crack from running later.

You can test the plastic that it is ABS. In an out of the way tiny spot, grind down a small divot. Then use the ABS weld mixture to fill the divot. Come back a day later and it should be hard and well bonded.

Here is the solvent method by member Frank. He taught it to me.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-10514.html

And here I used it on door benzel's which are white ABS. I have also have done white ABS fenders like this too.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-18665.html

Here is a thread on the resin kit called Plasti-mend
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-14865.html

Hope this helps

John

PS. If you want the yellow looking tank on top where you see it to be white again, there is a painting method being talked about on ABS plastic. Let me know and I'll find it and explain more if you want to try it.

Thanks for all of the info John. We will investigate the methods further and dive into fixing this thing.

We are interested in painting the unit white, so any info on painting the ABS will be helpful.

Thanks,
Jay

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Kxracer704

Thanks for all of the info John. We will investigate the methods further and dive into fixing this thing.

We are interested in painting the unit white, so any info on painting the ABS will be helpful.

Thanks,
Jay

Hi Jay, Your welcome.

On the painting, this is something I have been working on, thinking on for a while now. I have tried some paints that just do not work right. And then by odd chance, found some that stick real well.

This topic just came up the other day on "YellowJackets" camper restoration post. See here. He did what I was wanting to do, he painted the bath area ABS. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post152513

Read the next few replies as I have found that certain oil based paints bond well to ABS plastic. I have used normal "slow dry" oil based spray paint, on fender skirts and my door bezel with outstanding success.

But there was a learning curve. On ABS roof vent shrouds, I started out using Rustoleum plastic paint. For reasons not known, that was a disaster. I followed the directions to the T and it sprayed on nice and then it wrinkled up almost instantly as it dried. So I took it all off with laquer thinner as it would cut it without issues still be tacky.

Next I tried Rustoleum professional oil based paint in the spray can. This is fast drying paint. It too wrinkled up, but not as bad. I never used it again on ABS.

But, I have used Rustoleum Pro oil based paint brushed on in the can. Slow dry and it had no issues sticking. My use was accidentally but it bonded great. Something in the fast drying aerosol can paint has issues with the ABS. That I have found. But, if I buy the Painters Choice (by Rustoleum) oil based paint which is slow drying, then I have no issues. Something in the fast drying of the Rustoleum is not good on ABS.

Adam (Yellowjacket) used rustoleum marine topside paint. This is also and oil based paint and he reported good results.

The unknown in this is, how long will it last in a sink or shower with the water and the cleaning/scrubbing of cleaners? I would think the marine topside would be a good place to start as it is intended to handle the water.

I have a bath sink that is yellowing in my T310SR. I found a new replacement sink, but I wanted to test the process on the painted sink as a good test to then know how it will hold up. And it if didn't work out or has a short life, then I would just replace it. My motive for this is how to bring yellowing shower stalls back to life short of replacing them on one of my project campers. Replacing a shower stall surround is costly and work the way they are glued into the travel trailers. I already installed a new shower in my 2004 T1950 project camper so I know the new process. But painting one, is tolerable cost wise. I would spray it with a spray gun (not an aerosol
by a pneumatic air gun or mechanical non air gun) and mask off everything else and vent the camper while doing it with the sky light out of the shower.

In your case, the basin is out of the camper. You have good options on how to paint it as it is all out in the open. I am not sure if Adam sprayed his or brushed it on. Good question to ask him.

They also sell Krylon Fusion paint for plastic. I have used that, it is very thin fast drying and it does work and not have the wrinkle issues I had with the Rustoleum fast dry plastic paint. But, it is super thin. It works good on non sink things, like wall plates, or ceiling vent shrouds, but I'm not sure it being to thin that it may rub through on a shower/sink. So Marine topside paint seems to be a next best thing to try.

You are sort of learning how long this will last along with us. We have not had a club member post yet that have used some form of paint in a sink or shower and how many years they have had it hold up.

Hope this helps

John

[Kxracer704]

All,

Latest Video...
Powerwash the Oven - Camper Build Part 13

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[johnnybgood]

I need to get on my laptop more often to see your videos. Can’t see any on my iPhone for some reason.

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by johnnybgood

I need to get on my laptop more often to see your videos. Can’t see any on my iPhone for some reason.

If YouTube on your phone works, you can search my channel name: Kxracer704
I have a playlist called: Truck camper build.

Hope this helps!

[JohnB]

Jay,

WOW, you did a great clean up job on the stove!!!

And you really scored that the burners, and especially the oven gas valves all work. Parts on that vintage range are limited. Since Atwood sold out to Dometic, you can't get the same precious Atwood tech service with Dometic unless you are a certified Dometic repair facility. While parts do become obsolete over time, Atwood would go the extra mile and list out upgraded parts that could interchange with your older stove.

A few comments to help the cause. I noticed a few things different with your older range.

1. I'm not sure what year this came to be, but your stove does not have the step down regulator inside the stove or someone removed it. It drops 11" WC gas pressure down to 10" WC. It's purpose is to help make the burners and the oven operate more even for fluctuations in the gas line pressure when other LP appliances kick on and off. There should be a label under the stove top, in the stove (if it is still their) on the operating LP pressure. Yours "might" say 11" WC. If it says 10" WC, then someone removed the regulator.

Here is the label off one of my campers, it shows the 10" WC working pressure.




Here is the regulator. It is right at the copper line connection to the system manifold.


If you can find the label, and it is readable, post a pic. I might have a service manual on it for you.

2. A total system gas pressure, main tank regulator and leak check. Since you are doing a total system rebuild, this link and help to see that your system is all up and working as it should. You can make a homemade manometer which is very effective and accurate, if you do not have a gas gauge or store bought manometer.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...cks-10981.html

3. I'm not sure as I could not see the main tank regulator on your LP bottle in your pics. Just a friendly heads up in case you didn't know. The camper will/needs to run on 11" WC gas pressure. This is in the 0.5psi range of pressure. Not much. This is a safety thing for gas appliances inside a camper or house even. Even LP gas furnaces is a house use this low pressure, and in the camper too.

The main tank regulator will/needs be a 2 stage regulator. They are not that expensive and suggest a new one when you rebuild the gas system. The first stage drops tank pressure (large psi, 50 to 100 psi is possible pending the environment the tank is in) down to a lower (still high pressure) pressure of about 5 psi to 7psi. Then the second stage drops the 5 to 7 psi down to 11" WC (the 0.5" psi approx pressure).

A standard BBQ grill "outside" tank regulator normally only has a 1 stage regulator. Since it is to be used only outside, they allow a higher pressure. It can drop tank pressure down to 7 psi to sometimes 15 psi pending the actual stove/device. If your test setup was a BBQ regulator, do not use that to test the furnace or the water heater. The range oven is not the best either, I do not know if the oven valve is a diaphragm valve inside or a not. The gas valve in those appliances are only rated to handle the low 11" WC pressure and using them on a high pressure regulator can possible damage the diaphragm inside the gas valves. Plus they can overheat as they have way too much LP gas (gas energy) coming through the system.

You are doing great! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing. Your tips on de-stinking an appliance are helpful. Never been through that yet, thankfully.

Hope this helps.

John

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Jay,

WOW, you did a great clean up job on the stove!!!

And you really scored that the burners, and especially the oven gas valves all work. Parts on that vintage range are limited. Since Atwood sold out to Dometic, you can't get the same precious Atwood tech service with Dometic unless you are a certified Dometic repair facility. While parts do become obsolete over time, Atwood would go the extra mile and list out upgraded parts that could interchange with your older stove.

A few comments to help the cause. I noticed a few things different with your older range.

1. I'm not sure what year this came to be, but your stove does not have the step down regulator inside the stove or someone removed it. It drops 11" WC gas pressure down to 10" WC. It's purpose is to help make the burners and the oven operate more even for fluctuations in the gas line pressure when other LP appliances kick on and off. There should be a label under the stove top, in the stove (if it is still their) on the operating LP pressure. Yours "might" say 11" WC. If it says 10" WC, then someone removed the regulator.

Here is the label off one of my campers, it shows the 10" WC working pressure.




Here is the regulator. It is right at the copper line connection to the system manifold.


If you can find the label, and it is readable, post a pic. I might have a service manual on it for you.

2. A total system gas pressure, main tank regulator and leak check. Since you are doing a total system rebuild, this link and help to see that your system is all up and working as it should. You can make a homemade manometer which is very effective and accurate, if you do not have a gas gauge or store bought manometer.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...cks-10981.html

3. I'm not sure as I could not see the main tank regulator on your LP bottle in your pics. Just a friendly heads up in case you didn't know. The camper will/needs to run on 11" WC gas pressure. This is in the 0.5psi range of pressure. Not much. This is a safety thing for gas appliances inside a camper or house even. Even LP gas furnaces is a house use this low pressure, and in the camper too.

The main tank regulator will/needs be a 2 stage regulator. They are not that expensive and suggest a new one when you rebuild the gas system. The first stage drops tank pressure (large psi, 50 to 100 psi is possible pending the environment the tank is in) down to a lower (still high pressure) pressure of about 5 psi to 7psi. Then the second stage drops the 5 to 7 psi down to 11" WC (the 0.5" psi approx pressure).

A standard BBQ grill "outside" tank regulator normally only has a 1 stage regulator. Since it is to be used only outside, they allow a higher pressure. It can drop tank pressure down to 7 psi to sometimes 15 psi pending the actual stove/device. If your test setup was a BBQ regulator, do not use that to test the furnace or the water heater. The range oven is not the best either, I do not know if the oven valve is a diaphragm valve inside or a not. The gas valve in those appliances are only rated to handle the low 11" WC pressure and using them on a high pressure regulator can possible damage the diaphragm inside the gas valves. Plus they can overheat as they have way too much LP gas (gas energy) coming through the system.

You are doing great! Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing. Your tips on de-stinking an appliance are helpful. Never been through that yet, thankfully.

Hope this helps.

John

John, the regulator I used was from an outdoor grill/stove. I did not think about it being too high of pressure for the wedgewood oven I have. But I looked up the model # of the regulator I used to test the oven and it is 11” W.C. So I lucked out.
I also looked on the label of the oven and did not find any info on what the inlet pressure should be. So I will going with your recommendation and using 11” W.C. regulator for testing.

[JohnB]

Hi Jay,

Glad you lucked out on test regulator. Great!

Somewhere in your camper where LP tanks connected to the gas piping, there should be a 2 stage regulator. Have a look. It will have 2 round diaphragm castings to it as opposed to only 1. Post a pic if it looks questionable and can't back into what it is.

John

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Hi Jay,

Glad you lucked out on test regulator. Great!

Somewhere in your camper where LP tanks connected to the gas piping, there should be a 2 stage regulator. Have a look. It will have 2 round diaphragm castings to it as opposed to only 1. Post a pic if it looks questionable and can't back into what it is.

John

The regulator is branded
Marshall Brass Co
Model 130[IMG][/IMG]

[JohnB]

Jay,

Just WOW!!! That is one old regulator. The picture was cropped off so I cannot see if there is a second stage to it by the tank fitting. Is there a smaller round casting between the tank fitting and the large round casting you are showing in the pic?

The original Marshall Brass company out of Marcus TX. I can no longer find. They may have went out of business or been bought out approx 5 years or more ago.

I have one of their catalogs from 2012 but they no longer listed the Model 130 regulator. It may have been discontinued and replaced by ether their Model 290 2 stage regulator of the 250 series auto change over regulator.

There reason I say it is so old, it is a rebuilding able regulator. All the screws on the top allow the diaphragm and the valves inside to be rebuilt. Odds are very high you are no longer going to find a high quality rebuildable gas regulator on a RV camper. You can buy them for a house, but camper, odds a low. They are now all "throw away" regulators. They work right or toss em. They are crimped sealed and no repairable.

With the age of the regulator, I would suggest you get a new 2 stage one. The diaphragm may be degraded. If you have 2 tanks, you can get an auto change over regulator to switch tanks automatically. The auto change over look like this. This may be the buy out of the older Marshall brass as it looks very much like it.

https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Exce...omotive&sr=1-2

This is the one if no change over. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Low-C...-p/06-3890.htm

But, we need to confirm that your setup is on 11" WC pressure. The 2 stage regulator would show it, or a label on the water heater or the furnace

Hope this helps

John

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Jay,

Just WOW!!! That is one old regulator. The picture was cropped off so I cannot see if there is a second stage to it by the tank fitting. Is there a smaller round casting between the tank fitting and the large round casting you are showing in the pic?

The original Marshall Brass company out of Marcus TX. I can no longer find. They may have went out of business or been bought out approx 5 years or more ago.

I have one of their catalogs from 2012 but they no longer listed the Model 130 regulator. It may have been discontinued and replaced by ether their Model 290 2 stage regulator of the 250 series auto change over regulator.

There reason I say it is so old, it is a rebuilding able regulator. All the screws on the top allow the diaphragm and the valves inside to be rebuilt. Odds are very high you are no longer going to find a high quality rebuildable gas regulator on a RV camper. You can buy them for a house, but camper, odds a low. They are now all "throw away" regulators. They work right or toss em. They are crimped sealed and no repairable.

With the age of the regulator, I would suggest you get a new 2 stage one. The diaphragm may be degraded. If you have 2 tanks, you can get an auto change over regulator to switch tanks automatically. The auto change over look like this. This may be the buy out of the older Marshall brass as it looks very much like it.

https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Exce...omotive&sr=1-2

This is the one if no change over. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Low-C...-p/06-3890.htm

But, we need to confirm that your setup is on 11" WC pressure. The 2 stage regulator would show it, or a label on the water heater or the furnace

Hope this helps

John

I confirmed my system is supposed to be run with 11” W.C. It states this requirement on the furnace data tag. So I am assuming the entire gas system in the camper will be rated at 11”W.C.

The camper is set up for two 5 gal propane tanks. That being said, I am interested in purchasing a new regulator with the auto change over feature. With the auto change over regulators, do they drain both tanks equally? Or does it drain one tank entirely and then automatically switch to the 2nd full tank?

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Kxracer704

I confirmed my system is supposed to be run with 11” W.C. It states this requirement on the furnace data tag. So I am assuming the entire gas system in the camper will be rated at 11”W.C.

The camper is set up for two 5 gal propane tanks. That being said, I am interested in purchasing a new regulator with the auto change over feature. With the auto change over regulators, do they drain both tanks equally? Or does it drain one tank entirely and then automatically switch to the 2nd full tank?

Good, now you know. Yes, the tank regulator is to supply 11" WC LP pressure to all appliances.

The change over regulator, there is a flip over lever to select the main tank you wish to start drawing from first. There is also a red/green indicator, green = you have gas, red = your empty, both are only reading for the tank the lever is pointing to. Flip the lever, and it will read the other tank.

The main tank will drain until it gets very close to and most times, empty. Then it will automatically switch by itself to the other tank. The lever is still pointing to the now empty main tank your started with and the indicator will read red so you know the tank you started on is now empty. If that backup/secondary tank is turned on, and has LP gas in it, it will start flowing and you will not miss a beat.

The need though is to learn your LP usage and check the tank change over device for red or green after every campout. And change the empty tank when it goes out in a sooner then later fashion. They work well to not run out a gas in the middle of the night and most times before you run out of 2 tanks at the same time.

This older post when the original Marshall as still in business explains how they work with pics. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...ned-10560.html

John

[Kxracer704]

latest video...

ABS BLACK TANK REPAIR - Truck Camper Build Part 14

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[JohnB]

Jay,

Great job on the shower/black tank!

You have taken the toilet floor flange fix to the next level! I'm impressed!

After you experiment and work with solvent welding on ABS, it is amazing what you can fix on broken ABS parts. On broken out wheel well fender holes, (common issue on the travel trailers) I have solvent welded in stainless steel washers as reinforcing points. Just glued them in place and did the 3 repeats of solvent welds. The fenders seem to crack out in the screw holes, the washer weld in deal works.

The Top Side paint looks really good. Did you brush it or spray it?

Thanks for sharing

John

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Jay,

The Top Side paint looks really good. Did you brush it or spray it?

John

Thanks John. My girlfriend brushed the paint on. Looks great so far! Also the paint was "self leveling"

[Kxracer704]

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Furnace Refurbish - Truck Camper Build Part 15

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