Hydro flame LB-11L furnace?

[TheHunter]

Originally Posted by Kxracer704

The outside of my fire box maxed out my temp gun 550F+ at its hottest area. For the temp sensor, I don't know exactly what temp it kicks the fan on at but my furnace has to run for about 2 min from a cold start for the blower fan to kick on.



I took my burner assembly apart again and took the main burner orifice out. At first it looked like the hole was pretty clean and not clogged. But after soaking it in denatured alcohol and squirting alcohol thru the orifice with some pressure from a squeeze bottle it cleared out some dirt. The orifice size was probably double in size after cleaning.

I took some photos for reference with my homemade gaskets and cement patch job.

I reassembled the furnace and tested it. You were right! The main burner sounds quieter now and has a more consistent flame. And the best part is that the explosion from ignition problem is solved. Thanks again for the tips!

Awesome, glad I was able to return the favors you gave me. I pulled some panels so I could sweep behind the furnace and naturally it was also full of lady bugs so hopefully tomorrow when I let it burn for a bit that nasty smell will be gone

[TheHunter]

Just encase yours does not have numbers on it anymore. Hopefully you'll never need one but ...

[Kxracer704]

Thanks for the info. Let us know how your furnace runs after you get it back assembled.

[TheHunter]

Originally Posted by Kxracer704

Thanks for the info. Let us know how your furnace runs after you get it back assembled.

Everything works as it should. I put a manual thermometer up against the thermo cell or limit switch whatever it's call and the fan came on at about 140°, laser must have been hitting metal before and though I'm sure it does something it ain't much LoL. I think I'm going to look into another blower of some type and mount it somewhere behind the furnace and on a limit switch or maybe even a manual switch as it builds good heat back there but is wasted due to the panels that go over it and what does escape goes into the closet.

It would need to be small but I'm sure there's options out there or build the floor of the closet up even with the top of the propane bottle storage and then that would give about a 24"x30"x12" space to do as I need. I probably should do that anyways as all that's in that area is electrical and shouldn't be exposed anyway. Any opinions I would like to hear

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by TheHunter

Everything works as it should. I put a manual thermometer up against the thermo cell or limit switch whatever it's call and the fan came on at about 140°, laser must have been hitting metal before and though I'm sure it does something it ain't much LoL. I think I'm going to look into another blower of some type and mount it somewhere behind the furnace and on a limit switch or maybe even a manual switch as it builds good heat back there but is wasted due to the panels that go over it and what does escape goes into the closet.

It would need to be small but I'm sure there's options out there or build the floor of the closet up even with the top of the propane bottle storage and then that would give about a 24"x30"x12" space to do as I need. I probably should do that anyways as all that's in that area is electrical and shouldn't be exposed anyway. Any opinions I would like to hear

My furnace baffling and face plate may be different than yours. My blower definitely makes a difference. It disperses the heat nicely into the living space. It’s hard to tell with your photos but if you are able to get that trapped heat out into the living space with minor modifications, I’d do it.

[TheHunter]

Originally Posted by Kxracer704

My furnace baffling and face plate may be different than yours. My blower definitely makes a difference. It disperses the heat nicely into the living space. It’s hard to tell with your photos but if you are able to get that trapped heat out into the living space with minor modifications, I’d do it.

I don't think it would take much at all to run a small blower of some sort out of that area attached to a vent hose and probably put it on a manual switch so it could be cut on/off easily. I have it running again and it's 85° in the closet and 65° out in the living space.

FYI the face of the furnace maxed out at 633°

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by TheHunter

I don't think it would take much at all to run a small blower of some sort out of that area attached to a vent hose and probably put it on a manual switch so it could be cut on/off easily. I have it running again and it's 85° in the closet and 65° out in the living space.

FYI the face of the furnace maxed out at 633°

Ok thanks for the update. I noticed discoloration at the hottest point on my flame box outer face. That’s probably where you are getting your max temp. Good to know

[JohnB]

Thanks for posting this pic.



We keep learning more and more about the older Sunlines. Both in the travel trailers and now seeing yours, the truck campers, they installed fuses in the DOT body lights, stop, & turn signals. Not sure when, but that practice stopped some model year, years ago.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by TheHunter

Everything works as it should. I put a manual thermometer up against the thermo cell or limit switch whatever it's call and the fan came on at about 140°, laser must have been hitting metal before and though I'm sure it does something it ain't much LoL. I think I'm going to look into another blower of some type and mount it somewhere behind the furnace and on a limit switch or maybe even a manual switch as it builds good heat back there but is wasted due to the panels that go over it and what does escape goes into the closet.

FYI, the infrared thermometer you are using https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infrared_thermometer

can get tricked by surface finish and colors. We used them at work often, and they had to be calibrated to an range of distance from the object and the reflectiveness of the surface to be considered accurate. And these are $$$ hundreds of dollars in cost meters. Grained stainless steel would read all over the map as the grained surface gave false readings. The galvanized sheet metal you where shooting with the meter may have distorted the readings.

That said, they are handy on the camper, car etc and home owner/garage mechanic vintage and the cost is cheap now a days for an average meter. Just understand, you can have large temperature swings in accuracy over a contact probe thermometer. I use my General Instruments (a better cheap one still) infrared gun all the time. Brake drums/rotor lock up temps, exhaust system cat temps, tire side wall temps, frying pan temps.... They are quick and easy, just not dead on accurate unless calibrated for the exact distance and surface you are using. I do not care if a hot brake drum is 500F or 600F, it has issues....

The sensor you showed is called a "Thermal Disk Switch", "snap action switch" "thermostat snap switch, or nicknamed, Klixon relay. The brand Klixon, was big into this years ago. They may have even been the manufacture who invented it or commercialized it. I think they got bought out now by Senasys.

All the patents must of run out as there a lots of manufacturer making them now. Amazon has many brands and temp ranges, on and off temp settings, for turning on and off most anything with temperature https://www.amazon.com/s?k=thermosta...25&ref=sr_pg_2

Just make sure the one you pick is rated for the max temp what ever object you mount it to so it does not burn up. May have to back track to the manufacture to find that spec

A link to Newark who sells all kinds of industrial electronic everything. You can read for hours. https://www.newark.com/w/c/sensors-t...0disk%20switch

They have all the specs listed. Once you find the manufacture and part number you want, search the web where to buy it, or from them.

This switch could work your added fan system.

[Kxracer704]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Thanks for posting this pic.



We keep learning more and more about the older Sunlines. Both in the travel trailers and now seeing yours, the truck campers, they installed fuses in the DOT body lights, stop, & turn signals. Not sure when, but that practice stopped some model year, years ago.

Yeah my 1977 truck camper had the same fuses originally as the photos thehunter posted

[TheHunter]

Thanks John that's some awesome info! I think instead of using the therm switch I'll just wire up a fused switch that I can turn on/off as needed.

Yeah that fuse panel though simple and cheap works well and serves its purpose.

[TheHunter]

Back to my xtra fan ideal, I remembered I had some small 12 volt fans in the garage for another project and just tieing this up in the corner above the furnace is a huge improvement at forcing air back towards living area.

My plan I think is too put a hole just to left of converter and above furnace to mount that fan or one like it in and that way it will not only draw air out of closet but also blow the hot air from that corner towards living area. It would be super nice if I could find some sort of directional louver to put in front of fan to angle air towards living area.

Can't remember what that fan was intended for but it moves some serious air and is very quiet

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by TheHunter

B It would be super nice if I could find some sort of directional louver to put in front of fan to angle air towards living area.

See here for a bunch of camper heat registers. They have several styles and colors. You can spin some of them to direct the heat in multiple directions. Sunline used these in the campers with ducted heat furnaces.

You do not have to buy them from Etrailer, but they have a lot of good pictures and reviews of what they sell. The Valterra brand is a big RV aftermarket company.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-an...All%20Products