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Old 09-25-2010, 06:30 PM   #1
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Question 1994 c951

Hi All - Brand spanking new to the world of truck camping - NEWBIE ALERT> WE just picked up a "new" 1994 C951. Working through the learning curve as we speak. Camper is in excellent condition - at least certainly appears to be. A couple of questions for the experienced C951 owners on this site.
1) I am missing the lense cover on the back outside (by the back door). Does anyone know of a source for C951 parts?
2) The manual says that the floor is heated - what does this actually mean?
3) The unit I bought has three jack stands - is there any way to add a fourth. Three seems an odd way to hold up something that weighs in at just over a ton.

Thank you in advance for any and all help/advise.

- Road King, Trixie and Sidster
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Old 09-25-2010, 07:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road King View Post
Hi All - Brand spanking new to the world of truck camping - NEWBIE ALERT> WE just picked up a "new" 1994 C951. Working through the learning curve as we speak. Camper is in excellent condition - at least certainly appears to be. A couple of questions for the experienced C951 owners on this site.
1) I am missing the lense cover on the back outside (by the back door). Does anyone know of a source for C951 parts?
2) The manual says that the floor is heated - what does this actually mean?
3) The unit I bought has three jack stands - is there any way to add a fourth. Three seems an odd way to hold up something that weighs in at just over a ton.

Thank you in advance for any and all help/advise.

- Road King, Trixie and Sidster
Welcome Trixie and Sidster!

As for the lens cover, can you get me a picture of the camper or light? I need to know what style it is in order to tell you. Basically you can get most of them at an RV dealer. I also want to verify you do have a '94 because if it is earlier by chance (truck campers are often mis-advertised on the year), I've never seen another one of those style lights available for a replacement.

I just recently heard about that the floors are heated, but I'm not sure exactly how that's the case. My guess is there's an air compartment underneath and there's a furnace duct that goes down there. I may be wrong though.

I think the support should be there to add other jacks. While there are I feel less new truck campers produced these days, the styles of jacks on the market now I think are much better than they were. If you are interested in upgrading, now would be a good time to go with a new style jack system that is power or just would operate much easier. I've seen some new ones that use the Atwood jack motors just like the tongue jacks but are mounted on the side of a truck camper instead.

Jon
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
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Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:00 AM   #3
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C951

Hi Jon and thank you for the quick reply.

If I have done this correctly I have attached a pic of the Back Door Light.

Thanks again.

Road King
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:12 AM   #4
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If you can determine who manufactured that light, I suspect that replacement lenses are still available. Three likely possibilities are Arcon 18xxx series, Bargman #78 series, or Peterson V-384-385. You may have to take it off the wall to find the name or part number molded in the plastic.

From the parts catalog that almost all RV parts counters use:

GO-RV.com - RV On-line Catalog

GO-RV.com - RV On-line Catalog
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:25 AM   #5
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I'm pretty sure that's the Bargman light. However...

Based on the looks of that base, I think I can see why the old lens fell out. The bottom slot where the lens hooks in is cracked around there, where parts are missing. This usually results in the lens being very loose inside the fixture.

If I were you, I would just plan to replace the whole fixture. If you could even get just a new lens (depends on the dealer I think, how large they are), I think it would only be a matter of time before it's gone too.

I seem to recall the last time I bought one of these lights, it was around $16. It may have/probably has gone up by now.

Make sure you get some putty tape from the dealer too for installing your new light. You don't want it to leak.

Changing it out is pretty simple, remove the four screws and then carefully pull the wires out from inside the wall. Both wires have wire nuts connecting them to the coach that are just a little ways in. Make sure you keep the little plastic collar on the aluminum siding where the wires go through, if there is one there. Cover all edges of the new one with putty tape and push it on, then reinstall the four screws.

BTW, the original light would have been polar/bright white with an amber lens, not colonial white. The base has yellowed that much over the years.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:33 PM   #6
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Question C951

Thank you Jon and Steve for the advice and knowledge. I will indeed replace the entire unit - seems to be within my skill set

I set aside today for some quality one on one time learning about how a C951 ticks. I am glad I did.

Best I can tell everything - stove, fridge, furnace, A/C, plumbing seems to be in great shape - I do have a slight noise coming from what I think is the blower on the furnace - I am debating of doing a deep dive into the inner workings to find what is causing it. Or just use ear plugs for t
he time being.

Two additiional questions if you wouldn't mind. Please keep in mind that I have ZERO experiance with campers - truck or trailer. I do however consider myself a fairly handy kind of guy - comes with owning Harley's for MANY years.

1) This might be a borderline dumb question - How does the 6 gallon hot water tank get filled - does this fill as you open the hot water valve on one of the faucets?

2) To drain the water system (for winter) is it best to open the two drain valves (under the hot water heater - where the Sewer connector hose is stored) then push air through the lines at the city water connection as well as the fill for the fresh water tank?

Thanks again - I really do appreciate your time and your wisdom.

- John
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:08 PM   #7
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The hot water tank is filled when you pressurize the system either with city water or with the on board holding tank and pump. It stays filled all the time. It's essentially a miniature version of the standard hot water heaters in our homes and pretty much works the same way.

There are a number of threads in Repairs and Maintenance on winterizing plus several files in the files area. They go into great detail on winterizing. I urge you to read them over as they will answer most all your questions.

I am not familiar with the plumbing locations in your truck camper, but here's the generic short version:

1. Bypass and drain the hot water heater. If you don't have a bypass on the heater, read the file in the files area on them. You may want to install one.
2. Blow out the water lines with an adapter for an air pump on the city water hookup. Open each faucet or drain point one at a time and let air flow until there's no misting. Keep air pressure at or below 40 psi.
3. Drain the fresh water tank.
4. Hopefully there is a winterizing kit on your pump. Use that to pump RV antifreeze into all the piping.
5. Pour some of that pink RV antifreeze into every drain trap; enough to replace all the water. I use a shop vac set to blow and blast the water out of the traps first.
6. Drain all holding tanks.

Our Sunline trailers have low point drains on both the hot and cold lines. As the name infers, they're at the lowest point in the system, and drain through the bottom of the trailer out onto the ground. Your camper may have them too. You will have to poke about to find them.

Clean out the fridge and prop the door open to prevent mold and mildew.

I place mouse baits and ant baits in several places in the trailer year round, but start with new ones when I winterize.

Pull the battery and store somewhere where it will not freeze. Trickle charge and de-sulfate it from time to time.

I have Maxx-Air vent covers on the 3 roof vents on the trailer. They allow the vents to stay open even in rain or snow. I leave them open all winter to prevent moisture build up and to stop odors from forming.

I pull all the drawers out and set them up on the bed. I had mice nest in them the first year we had the trailer. Since I use baits and keep the drawers out, there have been no mouse issues.

Tons more info in the winterizing threads from the past couple of years.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:14 AM   #8
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C951

Thank you Steve, very much - great information.
I do appreciate it.

John
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